Craig y Forwyn

Crag: Craig y Forwyn, Llanddulas
Routes: Route 66 (VS 4c:sec), Sunset Strip (HVS 5a:sec)
We are gradually ticking a few more routes here, despite the fact that the central and best section remains banned after all these years despite the change of ownership. Today was sadly rain affected and was particularly unlucky - a deluge in the middle of a dry day. My finger injury persists, so I was happy to remain a passenger as we did the trade VS Route 66 for the third time, with its steep wall, delicate traverse and easy corner. Vic then led Sunset Strip, which is in the mould of the neighbouring Duchess which we did early this summer, but is more sustained. It starts up Route 66 before a delicate traverse left gains a steep wall before an excellent positive crack. This leads to a steep slab, with a fairly hard crux which requires a precise combination of moves using two perfect pockets. It began to rain just before I reached the crux and got gradually heavier as I grabbed the edge of the flake - not much for the feet and quite powerful for a short time. The rain began in earnest for the easier finish: a great, varied pitch. Sheltered for a while under the roof below the groove, then bailed out to do the Nick Beer 10k route round the Orme, inevitably drenched in glorious sunshine.