Purple Mountain Traverse

Peaks: Purple Mountain (832m), Tomies South (757m), Shehy Mountain (762m), Tomies (735m)
Area: Macgillycuddy's Reeks, Kerry, Ireland
This miniature massif probably counts as the most notable feature of the Killarney skyline, rising above the lake and occasionally living up to its name when the light is right. We could see it from our hotel on the Muckross road and it gave a delightful outing, the perfect 'airport day'. After another full Irish breakfast, we drove the short distance to Kate Kearney's Cottage and set off in yet another heavy shower along the narrow road which leads up to the Gap of Dunloe. This is famously picturesque, and did not disappoint. It was quiet, and we thoroughly enjoyed the flat walking up to Coosaun Lough, then the Black Lake, Cushvally and Auger lakes as the road climbs through the ever narrowing valley. Towards the top of the hairpins, the pass takes on a Llanberis feel - black crags and a distinctive Celtic atmosphere. I felt entirely at home, just like Dingle yesterday (although in the height of summer, I imagine this road feels very different, a tourist hotspot). Above lies the Head of Gap, and a small path climbs steeply up towards Purple Mountain itself (it must be at least 8k to this point from the cottage, a long walk-in). The weather had cleared by now, and we had some of the best views of the trip as the cloud lifted from the Black Valley and eventually Cnoc na Peiste and the main Reeks ridge. Stunning scenery on all sides, and even the novelty of sunshine. After skirting little Glas Lough, however, it started to rain again - and this turned to heavy sleet as we gained the ridge with views over the other side to the Upper Lake and Mangerton. The path weaves around to gain boulders leading to the summit of Purple Mountain, perfectly timed as the weather cleared again. These were the first real summit views of the trip, and they were worth the wait, as Purple Mountain occupies a perfect position between the Reeks and Black Valley on one side, the green valleys of Kerry to the north, and the Killarney Lakes directly below. Wispy shower clouds were lit by the sun as they tracked slowly across Ladies View on the Ring of Kerry. The views of Lough Leane and Ross Castle got even better as we walked over the subsidiary peaks of Tomies South and then out on a limb to Shehy Mountain, which is poised directly above Killarney and Lough Leane. A very enjoyable ridge walk which was worth savouring, so we took our time to contour round to the short final climb up Tomies. Here, we just sat for a while, watching the ever changing play of light on the lakes and Reeks ridge, now covered in light snow. Shower clouds and rainbows tracked across the valley bottom. There was still a fair way to go back to the cottage, so we jogged down the steep slopes of Tomies Rock to gain the twisting path back to the car. Then, after a quick shower, it was back to the airport via Macroom and a swordfish supper in Cork.