Area: Vilcanota Range, Andes, Peru
Despite climbing many Alpine peaks, and visiting the Himalaya and numerous other high mountain ranges worldwide over nearly 40 years, I am fairly sure I've never been over 5000m before so this was an interesting test, quite apart from being a spectacular day out. Vinicunca has become a major tourist attraction in recent years, as global warming has revealed its extraordinary geology (inevitably dubbed 'rainbow mountain' by the hordes of global travellers that want their picture taken in front of it). As such, it didn't hold much appeal for crowd-hating me, but it was also the only feasible opportunity for a day in the mountains given my very tight schedule in Peru. I also got it for free, so could hardly choose another option after arrival in magical Cusco. After a 3am start, and breakfast in Cusipata, we headed up a long gravel track to the roadhead, already really high. On Sunday, I had already broken my personal altitude record en route back to Arequipa from Chivay, when the van stopped at the 4910m Mirador de los Andes, a stunning place with views of seven volcanoes, one of which supposedly holds the source of the Amazon. I was breathless then, but since then had acclimatised further with visits to Puno, Titicaca and Cusco itself - in fact I had 'lived' at 3300m or higher for a few days by the time we set off. As a result, I felt OK and most of the route is just an easy stroll up an inclining path: exceptional views over the valley to the left up to Wasaqucha, Nevado del Inca, Takusiri and other glaciated peaks, a giant wall of rock and ice from this angle. Most of the tourists had no interest in those views, as they struggled (many on horseback) up to see the view they wanted for their social media posts. I suspended my cynicism though, as it's not as if I usually have to do things like this, and once I arrived above a steeper section at the obvious col below 'rainbow mountain' it is undeniably impressive. There was some breathlessness, inevitably, and what generally happens is that you feel OK for a while and then hypeventilate briefly as your body struggles for oxygen from time to time. I was well ahead of the hordes and the views were brilliant, out over the Red Valley and further north to the huge peak of Ausungate, with vertical shimmering glaciers and icefalls just visible through layers of cloud. It reminded me of Svaneti in Georgia, me going up small hills while massive 'expedition' peaks like Ushaia and Ushba loomed beyond them. After a while, the crowds did get to me but the day improved as there was an optional extension to the 'red valley' above Pitumarca, which I obviously took. Then, at last, I was free to fly and the crowds melted away. It was absolutely staggering scenery, the lazy cliche would be 'Martian', shades of deep reds throughout, with yellow patches and unnamed peaks rising beyond. A level trail led through red sand to a col, and then instead of going to another 'viewpoint', I saw an opportunity to finally plough up the mountain I had identified as an obvious extension: this was called Hatun Ritiyop (I assume this is Quechua) and was completely empty and vastly more rewarding: 16,631ft. A snow shower was coming in, so I scampered down to final views of the valley, an even deeper red from this angle. A shortcut regains the tourist path as the snow and hail got heavier and a rumble of thunder sounded. A nice lunch in Cusipata followed.
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