Llandegla BL

Race: Llandegla 5m+ (Border League race 1)

Time/Position: 35.30 (67th from 346 [1st V55])

Unless I have miscounted, this was my 100th Border League race, 21 years since my debut at Hoylake. Given my current lack of training and mileage, I was fairly pleased with my performance on what was a tough course by Borders standards. I can think of very few 'trail' races in the league over the years, so this was a real novelty on gravel tracks, with quite a lot of elevation (270m or so), so I was keen to do it despite hoping to ease off a bit in the league this year. It took in the main firetrack loop anticlockwise from just below the cafe. I took it fairly steady on the first climb: it then eased before a final steep kicker, nice views across the Clwydians, before the fast descent. Parking was inevitably going to be tricky, so we parked in Gwynfryn and jogged along the track from there, increasing the mileage to 13k or so.

Black Combe

Peaks: Black Combe

Area: Millom, Lake District

Black Combe is a real outlier, much closer to the sea than the rest of the Lakes and far removed from the central, better known fells. After the parkrun, I had the 'no fuss' breakfast and a pot of tea at the excellent Byre cafe in Bootle, setting me up nicely for part two of the morning. I parked at Whitbeck and adopted a 'running approach' although the hill is steep initially as it takes a giant zigzag south to the high ground above the side valley of Moorgill Beck. Great views down to the Irish Sea, after which the main track is gained which allows for pretty quick progress, even though I was a bit tired. I got to the top in less than 45 minutes, with a bit of mist draping the summit. This cleared on the exhilerating run down to reveal superb views of the sea below: I felt better than I have for some time, pelting down feeling something of the 'old magic' which was pleasing after the parkrun. No heel pain either, which obviously helped. I took in the cairn on the top of the spur above Whicham for even better views before finishing the descent: 69 minutes up and down.

Muncaster Castle parkrun

'Race': Muncaster Castle parkrun

Time/Position: 19.01 (1st from 114)

I was close to oversleeping in the van, so didn't even have a chance for coffee before heading from the hostel down towards the Cumbrian coast. This parkrun seemed the most interesting local option, and was by far the closest: it is entirely within the grounds of Muncaster Castle, a little reminiscent of Bodnant, and I thoroughly enjoyed it. My legs were a little tired after the last few days but I had a pretty good run around the three lap course which is nicely undulating: a longish climb from the cafe up a narrow tarmac path to a fast descent and then gravel loop around the castle itself with views down to Black Combe which I planned to run up next. I found myself in first place after the first lap and then felt reasonably strong for the final two undulating laps. Down on last week's time, but this is definitely a slower course. My 14th first place finish at the 'timed run' (not a race!) in 11 different venues.

Scafell from Eskdale

Peaks: Scafell, Slight Side

Area: Scafell, Lake District

I hate to think how long it has been since I was last on top of Scafell (as opposed to Scafell Pike). Actually, I know of course, as I have always taken copious notes: it was July 1989, remarkably enough. At the time I noted how unpleasant Lords Rake was, and there is a little asterisk next to the handwritten entry to denote 'photos taken from summit', which makes me feel quite old! This morning, over 37 years later, I took a completely different route after a leisurely breakfast at the hostel, waiting for overnight rain to clear. The rain did clear, although the day never really did become sunny as was forecast. I took the tracks above the Esk northeast through a farm to cross Scale Gill at the little bridge. From here, a shortcut zigzags up to pass round the back of Silverybield Crag and this gives way to a level path to the upper Esk, a wild place by Lakes standards, reminiscent of Scotland on a day like today with mist draping the tops. The shortcut worked a treat, passing through Sampston's Stones to Cam Spout, a triple waterfall coming down from the upper cwm. I am virtually certain I've never been here before, it's a great spot. The rock was a bit damp but I took a moderate scrambling line direct up the slabs immediately right of the falls itself (taken direct I think this is grade 3, but certainly not by the route I took). Above the falls, the path heads up right into the mist - it actually heads to the famous col of Mickledore, but I gradually realised I should be looking for Foxes Rake, which is a shallow gully almost hidden from below in misty weather like this. It was very wet but I headed up into the mist and it gave a lovely, if wet, little scramble. Very atmospheric, emerging at tiny Foxes Tarn before a final scree slope gives access to Scafell's summit, a great way up the mountain, varied and interesting throughout. Thick mist, although it did try (briefly and unsuccessfully) to clear as I descended the rocky ridge towards Slight Side. This is a minor summit, a lump on the ridge with a rocky top, and I finally emerged from the mist below Great How. The terrain is much grassier and moorland-like here (Quagrigg Moss) and I made good progress through the boggy terrain to gain the Terrace Route back to Wha House and Eskdale. Although wet and boggy in places, this was a great way to regain the main Eskdale valley, slipping between little rocky lumps like Cat Crag with a bonus view of the entirety of the Hardknott climb to keep me entertained: 17k, 1000m in 3.40, after which I recovered with local bitter and an excellent pizza at the Woolpack.

Hardknott Pass

Arguably the hardest road pass in Britain, this is a pretty daft thing to do on a bike, as it would be quicker for almost anybody to do it on foot. It rears up to a ludicrous 33% at the top hairpin so it is right on the limit of the possible in terms of staying upright. I have driven over it a couple of times over the years but thought I would take advantage of this year's cycling elevation to give it a go, although it is a tad intimidating. It has only been a couple of months since I was on the Galibier: which is at least ten times longer with five times the elevation gain. But the typical Alpine engineered climb stays at 8% or thereabouts, very different to this! After a long drive from home I parked up in Eskdale Green for a warm up along the valley through Boot and the hostel until the climb starts suddenly at a telephone box. It immediately rears up then gets even steeper over a cattle grid before veering left for the first mega-steep bit. I managed to do it, and then comes a bit of 'level' relief (actually just standard Alpine gradient) until the even steeper second section, which reaches its peak at the 33% leftward hairpin. After the first bit, I wasn't confident I could stay upright and stepped off the bike at the hairpin, the classic place to fail apparently. Very annoying and instead of carrying on by foot I cycled down (tricky in itself), toys thrown from pram! After an interlude doing Harter Fell, and therefore expending more energy, I decided it was unfinished business and went back (in afternoon sunshine) wearing normal shoes just resting on the pedals rather than clipped in! My logic was that, although I would lose power, if I failed I could at least get my foot down before toppling over. And this worked, rather surprisingly. I did have to stop briefly right at the bottom as two cars passed each other on the narrow road, but I stayed upright through the steepest bits and pulled through the grotesque crux hairpin with immense difficulty given my cruel gearing (my old triple would have been fine). Above the 33% section the road remains at least 20% as you crawl to the top - quite a mini-experience.

Harter Fell

Peaks: Harter Fell

Area: Eskdale, Lake District

This is a lovely hill when seen from Eskdale, draped in woodland lower down, rocky and shapely higher up. I don't think I've ever been up it before but did a mountain marathon (the Saunders I think) around the lower slopes some years ago. After my unsuccessful first attempt at Hardknott, it was a relief to be gently jogging along the Esk riverside path which led to a whole range of micropaths through surprisingly thick bracken, not something I associate with the Lakes - overgrown and unpopular paths! Very steep, then boggy, until I gained the standard Duddon track. Another path branches off from this and weaves round the little crags that dot the upper slopes of Harter. I was a bit tired after the violence of the ride and a fairly fast social run last night, but I kept a decent pace going until the three little crags that mark the summit - 44 minutes or a little less from the road. Slightly hazy views to Hardknott and Scafell, but there was a fair amount of cloud around. I made a nice 5 mile loop by then taking the grassier eastern slopes towards the top of Hardknott Pass. This was boggy and a bit dull, but did get me down quickly. Hardknott is so narrow and tenuous that you can't even see the road until you emerge onto the rutted tarmac. I ran down it, examining the fearsome hairpin, and taking a few direct shortcuts through the heather: 1.23 for the 9.2k/600m loop.

Ruthin parkrun

'Race': Ruthin parkrun

Time/Position: 18.36 (2nd from 141)

I took a few seconds off my own V55 course record here. The performance felt much of a piece with recent form, still not doing much running with the heel issues at present but recording slightly faster 5k times with some tempo training at short distances. In fact this was my quickest time of 2026, although still a minute down on my best V55 times last summer, never mind the times I was running in my early 50s. Perhaps my fifth running of the Ruthin event, in good conditions, followed by a delightful breakfast.

Cwm Clogwyn horseshoe

Peaks: Snowdon

Area: Yr Wyddfa, Eryri

You rarely hear this circuit described as the Cwm Clogwyn horseshoe, even though it has always seemed the best description to me. A few years ago I did this clockwise, up Snowdon Ranger and down Rhyd Ddu. This time I did the reverse, parking for free in the village and then going for a sustainable but relatively quick ascent. The weather was worse than forecast, low cloud and few signs of imminent clearance. All the paths on this side of the mountain weave around a bit, but Rhyd Ddu stays engaging and is more interesting than the Ranger, albeit perhaps a little more demanding from a running perspective. Into the mist and wind below Llechog, where the ground drops away to the left and the route becomes interesting, giving way to a narrow but level path that leads to the little col below Clawdd Coch on the south ridge. Steep wet rock then leads direct to the cafe, always a strange contrast especially on a day of howling wind with rain starting to fall. An empty summit and then it was the familiar jog down from the top before taking the Snowdon Ranger path which is nicely runnable at first, bringing back memories of my three Pedol Peris races. It gets awkward lower down, and it was very wet now, a real soaking. At the base of Moel Cynghorion I branched off for the obscure little path past Llyn Ffynnon y Gwas to Cwm Treweunydd and an awkward route through the derelict quarries and over the railway to the road just north of Rhyd Ddu: 1.59 for the loop, slower than the clockwise version, back just before midday.

Raven 7

Race: Raven 7 fell race (12k/580m)

Time/Position: 65.07 (9th from 29)

Although a predictably slow and plodding performance, I really enjoyed this new course, a much longer extension of the old King John's Castle fell race. I have done that race three times, finishing 2nd, 3rd and 4th! So this was a marked decline, but having hardly raced recently (my last two races were the short Ponderosa, and the Castles relay back in June), or run much at all, it was inevitable. The hills above Llanarmon yn Ial are perhaps the nicest in the Clwydians, and the race started on the familiar haul up towards Moel Gyw, which we then climbed via the tiny heather trod. I was in 6th place at this point, quite blustery and cloudy, and then really enjoyed the fact and familiar descent towards Moel y Plas. I knew I would struggle on the brutally steep climb up the front of this, and I did, losing two or three places. I felt reasonably good on the new section, contouring round to the mast and back along the main OD path, then down to the finish at the pub itself.

PitP parkrun

'Race': Park in the Past parkrun

Time/Position: 18.43 (1st from 169)

After all the long but slow mountain travel over the last few days, it was good to increase the pace here at the local parkrun. Given that I have hardly run for a couple of weeks, and my mileage generally is very low as I struggle with the heel injury, I was fairly pleased to be able to sustain a respectable pace in rather wet conditions underfoot (albeit nowhere near as bad as it got last winter). This was my third 'win' at the PitP 'timed run'.

Besseggen Ridge

Peaks: Bandet, Besseggen, Vestfjellet (1743m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

Almost certainly Norway's most famous mountain day, this attracts large numbers of tourists from all over the world. As such, it is the kind of thing I would usually studiously avoid, but there was obvious potential to do it on my own ahead of the crowds - partly because, not to put too fine a point on it, most of those doing it take a very long time! The usual time given is 6-8 (or even more) hours, so I thought I'd trot along and set a not-too-terrible geriatric time for it, with sub-3 an obvious basic target to aim for. It worked a treat. I got the first ferry from Gjendesheim across the lake to Memurubu, which was lovely and something I wanted to do anyway. Then it was back up the steep climb I'd done yesterday (and descended two days ago) despatching it in 28 minutes (for the 2k/440m climb to the tourists 'warning sign'). Then came the ridge, which was sheer delight. I was completely alone, miles ahead of the tourists from the very beginning, so could just enjoy it without prejudice. It is undeniably stunning, albeit so much lower than Besshoe that I would have found it very frustrating and unsatisfactory to have done it without first doing that dominant peak. The lake of Bjonblitjonne is the first feature, and the ridge begins to cohere here, just above it - whilst on the right, the stunning shimmering Gjende. The walls above the latter begin to steepen at this point. A broad rocky ridge then leads down to the most famous section, a little narrow neck of land between Gjende and then Bessvatnet on the left (the lake I had walked alongside yesterday). This is a really stunning spot, and it is entirely understandable that thousands of people want to see it. The cliffs plunge down to Gjende on the right, with Friday's peak Knutshoe far below. Bessvatnet is closer and higher on the left, with Besseggen looming as an impressive black peak, reminiscent of Skye, directly above. Then comes the scramble, up excellent rock, and for a short while this recalls Crib Goch. Very enjoyable, albeit a little short. At a platform, the steepness eases and the ridge loses some of its coherence. At a subpeak, the mist came down and I trotted across the now much broader plateau to Vestfjellet, the main summit in a light snow flurry (2c!). I got here in just under two hours, which didn't seem too bad. The descent from here is a bit trickier than I'd expected and still superb, albeit less spectacular that what had preceded it. It hugs the walls above Gjende with views down to Gjendesheim, which now becomes visible still far below (essentially the reverse of the view from the hut's lounge, which looks up to this point). A few little rock walls are surprisingly steep and there are a few chains at this point. A quick traverse gains the main path down to Gjendesheim which I was already familiar with. I ended up with a time of 2.45 for the 14k/1150m traverse, which I was quite satisfied with given that the pace was fairly relaxed and the terrain entirely rock underfoot. I was back well before midday, giving plenty of time to relax at Gjendesheim drinking coffee looking back at the ridge before my bus to Oslo at 3pm. It got very cold in a bitter wind later on.

Besshøe

Peaks: Besshøe (2258m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

Besshoe is the giant peak that I had spent the last few days circumnavigating, in fact my route had been a kind of 'Tour du Besshoe'. So whereas logic demanded that I do the famous Besseggen Ridge this morning, as the weather was perfect and I was already in position at the start in Memurubu, my brain went for an alternative option. This was partly because I pride myself on that kind of flexible thinking, and (related) because I wanted to get up another of the Norwegian 2000ers after Glittertind. Besshoe actually dominates the landscape here, despite the fact that almost all of the global tourists have eyes only for the much lower Besseggen Ridge. Anyway, after breakfast surrounded by schoolkids, it was back up the zig-zag climb I'd descended from the final pass yesterday. This is also the start of Besseggen and there are dire warnings about timing all the way up (ie, if you've taken longer than two hours to reach this spot, turn back). The weather was superb, by far the best of the trip, and this was another reason why my plans started to change, because the high peaks were clear for the first time. At this point I still hadn't decided what to do with the day, but when I reached the 'three hour warning' sign for Besseggen in around 45 minutes my mind was made up. I would have been down from the Besseggen Ridge too early, it would have been a waste of a day, so I decided to plot my way up Besshoe, which was looming attractively to my left. Behind me, the even more impressive Surtningssue, a crystal clear glaciated peak against a deep blue background. At the top of the first rise, I took a lumpy moraine ridge heading towards what seemed to me to be the most obvious route up from this side, the SW ridge. There was no path, and this was really satisfying. It was over boulders but they were fairly solid and eventually I spied a cairn or two a little further right, so somebody had been this way before! I picked my way up and the ridge, although broad, was nicely defined. I still hadn't fully decided on my plans, as I originally intended to bag the peak then return to do Besseggen. It eventually dawned on me that this was a pointless scheme, and also a potentially problematic one given the complexity of the route and nature of the bouldery ridge. Once I gained the summit plateau (Besshoe is a giant dome of a peak, steep and well-defended on all sides but with a shallow, rounded summit) my plans had changed decisively - I was definitely traversing the peak then coming back to do Besseggen tomorrow morning. I checked I could book the boat from Gjendesheim (I was committed to spending the night there as I had booked), had a bite to eat on the atmospheric summit and took in the magnificently huge view. This stretched for miles in the perfectly clear morning air. The plunging western cliffs of Besshoe lent definition to the valleys I had recently traversed, and then Glittertind, Galdhoppigen and a galaxy of peaks further west across wild upland scenery. I think I could see Hurrungane and other rockier peaks in the distance, as well as mountains like Eggen across Lake Gjende. A superb and memorable few minutes, after which I found the normal route which I planned to descend - this takes a broad and fairly shallow ridge between cliffs on one side and a glacier (rapidly receding) on the other, the Bessbraen. It was a very nice way down, again fairly complex, with Besseggen to the right and the beautifully clear lake of Bessvatnet directly below. With the glacier on the left, it became a classic moraine with dusty boulderfields and gravel, until it eventually gave way to a sun-dappled green meadow, complete with babbling stream, below the black bleakness of the moraines. I had lunch here, absolutely delightful, revelling in the situation (I had the entire mountain to myself and saw nobody). Then came a long but easy walk out along the shores of Bessvatnet to a lonely hut and then the bridge at the outflow that I'd crossed on the walk to Glitterheim. I hadn't seen any of this terrain on day one as it was so misty, so it was an enjoyable trot up to the pass and down the final descent to Gjendesheim (18k/1300m/4.40) where we dined on local pork and sauerkraut. I spent the night in the old dorm hut right next to the river.

Glitterheim hut-Memurubu hut

Peaks: Sjurgurdtinden (1305m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

This was a wonderful route through magnificent terrain. The scenery evolved constantly and every step was enjoyable, in weather that gradually improved throughout the day. From Glitterheim I had to retrace steps back up to the Hesterlaegerhoe pass, but this was no bad thing as the high plateau is such a magnetic, atmospheric place. The cloudbase was gradually lifting as I crested the pass and moved quite quickly over the boulder fields eventually branching off decisively down Blatjonn for Memurubu, with Russvatnet shimmering below. Ahead, Besshoe with its gigantic western rock ramparts still draped in mist. A superb fast flowing river (the Blatjonn I assume) was crossed by a bridge, and then the path gradually descends to the lake shore and follows this inexorably towards a superbly alluring narrowing of the valley which is blocked by the foot of Gloptinden, a low but impressive pyramidal peak that I had mild designs on. A burst of sunshine lit the narrow valley opening as I approached it near the isolated hut of Blackwellbue (named after an English climber I think), a huge waterfall coming down from Surtingsue on the right. This gave access to Nedre Russglopet, the narrow valley, although there was no obvious way up Gloptinden from here sadly. After a drink, the route climbs to a high col, the climax of the route, and then sudden spectacular views down to Lake Gjende. At that point the sun came out, alongside a light shower, creating an incredible play of light. I was looking down at the ridge that forms a continuation of Besseggen to the end of the lake at Gjendebu. I wondered about taking in another peak up here, but eventually decided to descend to Memurubu, which nestles in a stunning location on green meadows half way along Gjende. Good job I did, as another massive school party was taking up all the rooms again, the same as Glitterheim last night! I did eventually get a bed in one of the original (C19?) wooden buildings well away from the main hut, which was perfect and hugely atmospheric, with views over the lake and up to the peak of Eggen and a giant waterfall coming down from a hanging valley. The weather was now decisively clearing for the first time so I made my way up to the obvious mini-peak of Sjurgurdtinden which towers above, and is highly reminiscent of the Lake District. I was up it in no time, a lovely extension of the day, and spent a memorable half hour on the summit enjoying a genuinely stunning panorama across the lake, up to Besseggen and Besshoe, and down to the Memurudalen valley.

Glittertind

Peaks: Glittertind (2452m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

Once upon a time, Glittertind competed with neighbouring Galdhoppigen for the title of the highest mountain in Scandinavia (and northern Europe). Now, however, it is decisively second, as the summit ice-cap has melted in recent years. It made an obvious objective from the Glitterheim hut, which lies below it, although the weather this morning was much worse than the forecast (unlike yesterday, which turned out better than the dreadful forecast suggested). It is a vast, bulky peak, and the cloud base was low although views over the atmospheric lake of Nedre Steinbuvann were superb, with mist draping the high mountain cwm that contains it. Glittertind is a fair old slog up bouldery moraine material, and the wet weather didn't help. It was never especially heavy though, and higher up the SE ridge becomes better defined with misty views over the northern and eastern glaciers which remain pretty extensive. I wasn't feeling as sharp as usual and it took two hours to get to the rather bleak and misty summit, marked by a couple of wooden planks. I hadn't actually decided on my next course of action so had carried all my kit, one of the reasons for the slow ascent. An unusual experience followed, as I had to do quite a lot of admin and route planning (because I had a signal for the first time since Gjendesheim, there was nothing at the hut which was why I had to retain flexibility by carrying all my stuff). This took a while, lots of planning and decisions to make, and so I was pretty cold by the time I'd finished in temperatures not far above freezing! After all the logistics, I stuck to 'plan a' again, and descended back to the Glitterheim hut rather than traversing to Spiterstulen. Also, because of the weather, I opted not to extend the route to Riggehoe, which was definitely the right decision as, if anything, the weather worsened as I descended. By the time I reached the lake it was raining fairly heavily, which was a shame as I really wanted to explore it and have a leisurely lunch there. I did this anyway, but it was a bit soggy. Still a spectacular location though, nobody else there and a powerful atmosphere.

Gjendesheim hut-Glitterheim hut

Peaks: Vestre Hestlaegerhoe (1758m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

After yesterday's aperitif, the main business began here in light rain and low cloud. This was always forecast to be the worst day of weather, to the point that I seriously considered changing my plans and just getting the boat to Gjendebu. In the event though, I stuck to 'plan a', as some kind of clearance seemed likely after midday. After a very nice breakfast, I started from Gjendesheim in light rain: the route starts to climb immediately up to the first pass and junction with the very popular Bessegen ridge. Some stunning views over Gjende and the cloud-draped walls of Besseggen, until I entered the clag at the pass. Even this was atmospheric though, with crags looming out of the mist on the left. The rain was fairly light, and there was very little wind (and it was quite mild) so my weather 'rules' complied. Quite suddenly, the outflow of Bessvatnet lake appeared just below the cloudbase. I crossed a little bridge and then the route gently descended through wild terrain until a spectacular clearance saw Nautgardstinden appear above the clouds. A wet descent led to the huge lake of Russvatnet, which would become quite familiar over the next few days. Another suspension bridge crossed the rapids of Saubue which led down a beautiful valley to the east, and two or three huts along the shoreline (Russvassbue). The route hugged the banks of the lake for a while before starting to climb up a shallow stream valley to a rickety monkey bridge over a small gorge. I had a snack here, and a tiny hint of sunshine peeked through the clouds as the ramparts of mighty Besshoe across the lake appeared through tendrils of mist. Above this, I made the biggest mistake of the trip, opting to follow the marked Blatjonn route to Glitterheim rather than the steeper Tjonnholae 'shortcut' which would have made for a more satisfying tour (because the marked route took in more of the terrain I would have to repeat on the return journey). It wasn't a big problem though, as this takes in some memorable and spectacular terrain. I contoured the hillside as the rain began again and eventually gained the vast bouldery plateau with huge views up to the eastern peaks and cwms of Surtningssue, a massive and complex massif. The plateau is an extraordinary place, high-up, awkward underfoot and very atmospheric. No doubt the standard route comes this way because there isn't that much elevation gain required to access the key pass, the Hestlaegerhoe. It is tiring through, because of the rocky terrain, and I suspect some people really struggle here (conversations at the hut suggested that was indeed the case). I felt OK, although I'd covered 20k or so, and decided to nip up to the side peak of Vestre Hestlaegerhoe which was just above, partly because the weather was clearing again. This was the lower of two rounded, minor summits either side of the key pass. The rock was mossy and untravelled but I got to the cairn easily and then descended back to the pass: it was, as ever, satisfying to take in a summit, even a minor one. The terrain continues rocky and awkward down Hestbekken to the stunning valley of the Veo river, the Glitterheim hut nestled at the base. Above, Glittertind itself was emerging from the mist, my target for tomorrow. To the left, at the top of this magnificent wild valley was Leirhoe, still glaciated. It was now brighter again, and in some ways I didn't want to reach the hut! It is highly circuitous to get to anyway, because of the amount of water and braided river channels throughout this valley (24k/1100m, just over five hours). A relaxing afternoon and evening followed before a stupendous meal of cured trout, reindeer heart sausage, carpaccio, and much more. It rained all night but I was cosily ensconced by then.

Knutshoe

Peaks: Knutshoe (1517m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

Knutshoe is a perfect miniature mountain which gave an ideal start to my Jotunheimen trip. This was my return to the Norwegian mountains after 35 years away. My university expeditions to Okstinden in 1989 and 1991 had an enormous impact on me, it's probably not an exaggeration to say that in many ways they changed my life. I assumed I would return to Norway regularly, but I suppose I was lured away by many other (cheaper) mountain ranges worldwide. So the return was long overdue, particularly as it is so easy to get to the Jotunheimen, making it ridiculous that this was my first visit. After weeks of glorious weather, I was unlucky in the sense that the weather changed when I arrived. In fact persistent rain was forecast from around 5pm, so as soon as I saw Knutshoe from the Oslo bus, free of cloud and sitting in the landscape as a perfect little ridge, I asked the driver to drop me off at Vargebakken, and then it was straight into it at around 2pm. Cloud draped the higher Bessegen ridge across Lake Gjende and was very threatening over the bigger peaks to the west, but Knutshoe remained clear. The little birch trees, lichen and juniper immediately bought memories flooding back and I immediately felt at home in the landscape. The route is level for a while and then comes the first rise to gain the long ridge which forms the mountain. This is the steepest part of the entire route and actually has a couple of tricky scrambling moves, perhaps even grade 2 or 3, up a sort of open book groove below a steep wall. It doesn't last long and gives way to a broad ridge up which I made quick progress, trying to get up before the rain, which now seemed inevitable. It goes up and down a bit to gain a final forepeak before a descent. Then comes the last steep scramble on good rock, really enjoyable, to the true summit. Extraordinary views down to Ovre Leirungen, a turqouise lake and valley which feeds into the famous Lake Gjende, which I could also see. The ambience was stunning with black clouds draped around the higher peaks, plunging waterfalls, the two lakes, and across to big interior peaks like Storend. The modern description for this is 'epic', probably apt in this instance, and I couldn't believe it has taken me 35 years to come back. It started to rain as soon as I started the descent but never developed beyond light showers, meaning the tricky downclimb was fine with a bit of thought. At the base I had to get to Gjendesheim so took a side path through boggy birch woodland and a path along the eastern banks of Nedre Leirungen with perfect views back to Knutshoe. I had to regain the road where the Sjoe river feeds into the Gjende, exhilarating meltwater, to loop back to the packed Gjendesheim hut where I had to spend the night on a sofa in the lower lounge after feasting on superb reindeer stew. It rained heavily from 5pm, incredibly atmospheric views from the hut across the black lake.

Bochlwyd climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Bochlwyd

Routes: Wall Climb (HS 4b:sec), Arete and Slab (D:led), One Pitch Route (VS 4c:sec), Chimney Climb Direct (HS 4b:sec), Two Pitch Route (S:sec)

A venue I have visited many times, but even though I was largely just a passenger again today I did a couple of variations I don't think I've done before. Peter kicked off with Wall Climb in disappointing weather: cool, almost cold, and unexpectedly windy. It gives a great pitch, quite stiff for the grade, which I remembered fairly well although it must be decades since I led it. A ramp goes left to a steep wall with some great climbing on sharp holds up to a ledge. Above this, after a steep crux pull the angle eases. Nice pitch, windy throughout but Peter was experimenting with mini walkie-talkies which worked really well. I then led the easy Arete and Slab which I've done many times before, including solo, up a steep crack on enormous holds to the slabbier finish. I don't think I've ever done One Pitch Route before, and enjoyed following Peter up it. Essentially an eliminate, it goes up to Marble Slab before sidling leftwards along a horizontal crack to a short and surprisingly technical crux with little for the feet. After lunch we got on the old Eryri classic, Chimney Climb. I hate to think how long ago I did this with Tim: 35 years perhaps? It was so dry that Peter did the direct version, which goes up a black, mossy crack - presumably usually horribly damp but today dry and climbable. It gives a steep layback to the ledge, after which an awkward steep move over the obstruction leads to the easier upper chimney - I remembered this from all those years ago. Finally, we did the mild severe Two Pitch Route which I've done many times before.

Crewe parkrun

'Race': Crewe parkrun

Time/Position: 18.47 (8th from 432)

Eight hours in Crewe: does it get any better? This kicked the day off and was an encouraging performance by recent standards, particularly given my lack of current mileage. Queens Park in Crewe is delightful, it must be one of the most scenic urban parks in the region, and the parkrun takes three laps of it. It is tight and twisting, with a few little climbs, but all on tarmac paths. I worked my way up the field after a quickish first lap and felt reasonably good until the sprint finish, which was a little way beyond where I expected it to be! After breakfast I then headed off for a bike ride to Mow Cop, incorporating the killer mile. I was a minute slower than my 'on foot' time recorded in March and - unlike the Cheshire Cat sportive in 2011 - I failed to do it one go and essentially chickened out of the ludicrously steep section near where the pub used to be. In the 2011 sportive I did stay upright on my triple and have a medal and photo to show for it! I then rode back via Kidsgrove, where I got lost in a council estate, and then an awful short section of the A500 before getting to Barthomley and back to Crewe Green in time for the football, part three of the Crewe day.

Holt to Horseshoe 75k

A nice way of incorporating the Alpine-style ascent of the Horseshoe from Llangollen via a long warm-up. A very long warm-up really, from home to Holt and then south to Cross Lanes via a closed road and the continuation along Kiln Lane to Eyton. From here, the character changes as the route heads west to Johnstown and Ruabon before heading to Llangollen. I had a cheese pastie and then despatched the climb, which didn't go as well as it should have done given my Alpine training! Home via Bwlchgwyn and Cefn y Bedd.

St Asaph 90k loop

Another variant on the Tour de Flintshire concept, although this one contained substantial chunks of Denbighshire! I will have to work a Flanders-style 'Ronde' maximising the climbs one day. This morning I rode to Mold via Padeswood, then Peter joined me for the climb through Cadole and up to Penbarras from the gentle side (unlike my trials up the other side last week). This is still quite steep towards the top, and the descent is so steep that it isn't very relaxing with my skinny tyres. Below, the Vale of Clwyd looked more like Almeria with baked yellow fields throughout. We rode along the quiet lanes through Gellifor and Llandyrnog to Bodfari, where we went out seperate ways: Peter back to Mold and me to St Asaph. I put in a bit of an effort from Trefnant crossroads to St Asaph cathedral - 6.04 at 32.6km/h, but I was held up at the lights to be fair so most of it was 36km/h which by my standards is good. A lovely lunch in St Asaph was perfect fuelling for the return up Rhuallt hill to the quiet lanes through Babell and Halkyn, descending to Mold and home via Pontblyddyn.