Eglwyseg round

One of those long runs that I have filed in the recesses of my mind but never got round to before. With Manchester looming, there is a need to start upping the distances. I've pushed a few 'canal runs' up to around 15 miles over the last few weeks but put this old plan in action this morning, which was almost spring-like at times. I parked at Minera lead mines, interesting in itself, then ran along the lanes to the streets of Rhosllanerchrugog, definitely one of the most fascinating towns in Wales. Through the streets to Pen y Cae and other outliers before negotiating the lanes down towards Garth. At this point the landscape decisively changes from semi-industrial to properly rural, and then when you round the corner you get to the Panorama road. This is always fabulous, and was today, with Dinas Bran glinting in the sunshine - even more springlike. Then came the very long but very enjoyable lanes below the crags of Eglwyseg all the way up to World's End, and then the sharp climb up to the top of Ruabon Moor. Then the lane finally descends to Minera. Hard to know what the best description for this is: a loop or 'round' of Ruabon Moor, or Esclusham, or Eglwyseg, whatever you choose to call the upland area west of Wrexham!

Tejina

Peaks: Tejina (605m)

Area: Tegueste, Tenerife

We left Vilaflor yesterday and travelled along the east coast to Anaga, a place I have long wanted to visit. However, while I was expecting an esoteric destination, far from the Tenerife crowds, it was actually rammed full of tourists (and is not far from the biggest city of Santa Cruz). That said, the lauresilva cloud forest was just what I had expected - similar to its neighbours on Madeira and small parts of Gran Canaria. It is dense and green and moss-covered, very atmospheric. After a night in Tacoronte, I was keen to avoid the crowds so we drove to nearby Tegueste where we had seen a suitable route up the ridge that frames the town and ultimately drops into the sea. The edge of Anaga I suppose, all very green. We walked through the town in wonderful weather, after damp drizzle yesterday afternoon, dazzling blue skies above. Above the town, a small road gave way to a cobbled track, which weaves around the hillside to gain an obvious col/pass with views down to the sea at Punta Hildalgo. Behind, the towns of the north coast with Teide looming spectacularly behind, a constant presence. Closer, typical Canarian scenes of cactus, native flora and the endemic Tenerife lizard with its blue spots. The final section contoured above the valley, mildly exposed in a few places, reaching a further mini-col and then a plateau with superb views of the Atlantic. The sound of the huge rollers was ever-present, despite them being 600m below, and we then went down to watch them closer at Punta Hidalgo with shellfish soup and calamares romana.

Teide

Peaks: El Teide (3715m)

Area: Teide, Tenerife

I can think of very few parallels to Teide. I first saw it from a plane, flying back from the Gambia in 2018. It utterly dominates its landscape in a way few other peaks can match, not even Etna - the most obvious comparison. That first view impressed me so much that a few months later (February 2019) I was on Tenerife to climb it (having long ago done Mulhacen, the highest peak on mainland Spain, along with many other iconic and notable Spanish mountains!). That day, I'd set out in sleet which turned into an extraordinary blizzard and I ended up retreating from below the refuge. I really wanted to put that right, so reserved a summit permit months ago (they are free but have to be booked months in advance to prevent all the cable car types from wandering up to the top). I left Vilaflor at 6.30am, stopping at Las Canadas to experience the night skies before sunrise - stunning, although a very bright full moon. I parked at the same place as last time below Montana Blanca and set out with glimmers of light and the sky glowing to the east. After 15 minutes light jogging, the sun rose casting a stunning glow and illuminating the entire mountain - deep orange and ochre shades of pumice. A ranger checked my permit before I'd even started up the steeper slopes. At Montana Blanca, the track gives way to a zigzag path above the Teide eggs (accretion balls). This is where the blizzard really worsened six years ago. It is relentlessly steep all the way to the Altavista refuge, and my decision then was vindicated by the fact that the zigzags get vague and indistinct towards the top before coalescing again just below the hut. It is also a very steep and relentless haul with awkward lava shelves in places. I reached the Altavista in 90 minutes or so, which isn't bad considering the vertical interval with the altitude now starting to really kick in. This meant the next section through the lava fields to the final summit cone was much slower and harder than it would normally have been. It is known as La Rambleta and it weaves through the lava, less steeply than the lower section to the hut but still fairly draining. Then comes a level section below the summit cone during which I encountered tourists for the first time. I arrived at the little hut controlling access to the summit bang on my ETA just after 9am, a little under two hours from the car - all worked fine although I had to show my passport! And then it was up the final route, Teleforo Bravo to the true summit at 3715m. At this altitude, physical effort really does become noticeably harder and it has been a few years since I was up this high. Still, I got to the true summit in around 2:20 from the road, which is respectable enough. As expected, the views were of the 'helicopter variety' which is always what happens when one peak completely dominates - in some ways the views from the much lower peaks across Las Canadas to Teide are more impressive. But that said, Teide is so high and isolated that the views are just immense. I could see El Hierro beyond La Gomera, as well as La Palma beyond the southern coast. And of course Gran Canaria shimmering across the Atlantic. Closer, the Anaga peninsular was something to look forward to on Saturday. The entire island was visible like a 3D map and the ambience was superb. I also had the top to myself although two Czechs arrived quite quickly. Sulphur clouds and odour reminded me that this is not entirely dormant, although nothing compared to the steaming fumaroles and explosions of Etna or Ijen or Iceland - all three of which I have recent volcanic experience in! After a small snack (no breakfast) I trotted down, breaking into a run as the air got thicker lower down: 3.35 for the entire trip compared to the standard time of 9-10 hours, back by midday to meet Kate in El Tejar. I was, I admit, tired on our subsequent Vilaflor hillwalk!

El Sombrero-Amendro

Peaks: El Sombrero (2405m), Roques del Almendro (2520m)

Area: Teide NP, Tenerife

After arriving in Vilaflor around 7ish last night, we woke to a superb Canarian morning - crystal clarity and perfect temperatures around 15c (bearing in mind that Vilaflor is almost 1500m up, a fact that did not endear it initially to Kate after arrival). On my last trip here in 2019, it was extremely cold, which was possibly the reason I missed the endemic blue chaffinch at Las Lajas. So I made this the first stop, a beautiful picnic area surrounded by Canarian pines, and this time (after a few canaries and the Tenerife subspecies of great spotted woodpecker) I located a blue chaffinch, which was followed by several more, azure in the early morning sun. A brilliant start, and then came a wonderful walk with Kate, the perfect warm-up for my planned assault on Teide tomorrow. The route up El Sombrero left Las Lajas via a path which weaved through the pines - the sunshine wonderful after weeks of cloudy, bone-chilling weather at home. The path passed through a series of side valleys before making its way up a spur and into a more open upper valley above the tree-line. Behind, the ground drops away to the Atlantic - and above, deep blue cloudless skies. Some characteristic Canarian vegetation and then a broad plateau is reached, this being the bare orange rock skyline visible from Vilaflor and below. That skyline is punctuated by a series of outcrops, two of which are called El Sombreror, because that's what their shapes recall. We curved round to take an open stepped chimney to the plateau summit, only slightly raised above the ridge but quite distinct from Vilaflor. The most notable thing though was the breathtaking view of Teide, now visible across the crater. After a break on the top, we moved round and then went to the edge of the plateau for views over the vast crater of Las Canadas with Teide the looming presence beyond. To the right, I could see Alto de Guajara which I did as a consolation prize in 2019 - I remember then the views of Teide above a layer of cloud. We extended the day along the ridge line, and Kate took a break as I continued west along towards Roques del Almendro. I had a vague idea to take in El Sombrerito, but this was clearly more involved (a shatterered ridge and steep gully lay between it and the Roque) so I returned to Kate and we ambled back to rejoin the ascent route. After a sandwich we took in the Roques de Garcia loop, this time with hundreds of tourists (we saw hardly anyone in the morning). Again, contrasting to 2019 when I did the same loop in icy conditions. We had to escape the hordes eventually so went back to refuel on Canarian fodder: queso asado, papas arrugadas, mojo and carne fiesta.

Oswestry XC

Race: Oswestry XC (NW League race 3)

Time/Position: 36.08 (59th from 109)

This may be the last time I ever do a race double header, particularly given that this was only 19 hours after the Dash. There was a time I could cope with it, but even at my best there was always an awareness that performance is compromised. I got to the familiar Oswestry venue from an open day with a few minutes to spare, on a dank, cold and drizzly afternoon. Unlike yesterday, I lost energy throughout the race, and unlike yesterday moved in the wrong direction, with runners passing me throughout the second lap where I slowed to a crawl. There's no hiding place on this course, with its steep climb from the back field and its deep, cloying bogs. My worst ever XC performance, not even in the top half of the field, but I was still (sort of) glad that I'd made the effort. I was inexplicably slightly faster than the last time I did the race three years ago - and on that occasion I finished in the top 25 as 1st V50. Two possible explanations: this course was a bit shorter, or conditions were better than usual today (always relative at Oswestry!).

Dash in the Dark

Race: Dash in the Dark (Race 3)

Time/Position: 29.53 (8th from 102)

With the prospect of cross-country tomorrow, this was intended to just be a cruise followed by the usual chip butty and pint. But because I started casually I actually felt much better than of late, and passed people throughout the race to a quick finish four seconds behind Jez. I still struggled a little on the steeper inclines, but descended fairly quickly and made up a lot of ground on the flat: more extensive tonight as it was the full course (although the route has changed so much over the years that it is rarely quite the same twice). Always very enjoyable evening, and we retired to the Rose and Crown soon after the race.

Conwy fell race

Race: Conwy Mountain fell race (5m/1700ft)

Time/Position: 55.30 (28th from 120)

A beautiful day for my third running of this race, over terrain I know very well. Sadly, even though I was well rested, I really struggled again and am now forced to conclude that my days of doing reasonably well on short fell races are almost certainly over. This was nearly six minutes slower than the time I recorded in 2017, which may have been the first running of it. It is a nice route, albeit rather spoiled by an arbitrary sting-in-the-tail which puts me in mind of 'tough mudders' and other things I don't approve of, as the logical and elegant finish would be straight down from Mynydd y Dref. The start went well, up the bridleway all the way to Allt Wen. Then a muddy and tricky descent, very steep, towards the sea before a long weaving climb up to Penmaenbach via bouldery slopes. I was tiring and losing ground all the way but the views from the ridge compensated. I knew I would lose loads of time on the final detour, and that was indeed the case! Still, a pleasant pint with pork pie in the Albion more than compensated.

Deeside BL

Race: Deeside 7k (Border League race 3)

Time/Position: 26.35 (60th from 366)

Almost certainly my slowest ever time on this familiar route, but I am not too bothered or surprised as it proves my fallow year has worked in the sense that I am fatter and slower! I also have no intention of properly competing in the league this season, just helping the team where I can. Predictably, I really slowed on the Kelsterton hill, which is currently being resurfaced so felt even steeper than normal. I descended reasonably well, albeit unable to hold much speed, and did at least score in 10th place for the team. Some ice on the course, which caused a slight delay as it was being inspected.

Chester parkrun

'Race': Chester parkrun

Time/Position: 19.33 (10th from 451)

Slightly tired after upping the mileage a bit as the fallow year comes to an end, so this was just a plod round before an open day. Huge numbers, so it was slow and crowded in places, hard to overtake lapped runners. Almost certainly my slowest ever time at the Chester parkrun, but that isn't too troubling.

The Horse fell race

Race: The Horse (13k/500m)

Time/Position: 1.13.00 (2nd Team)

This is a brilliant team event that got off to a memorable start two years ago when it was run in hugely atmospheric soft snow. No such weather luck tonight, as recent snow had almost all melted (but I had already enjoyed three superb snowy runs last weekend, deep drifts in places). It was still a brilliant event, in some ways even more enjoyable than last time. As then, I ran with Jez as a 'team'. And, as then, we finished second team by time - although lower via the somewhat complex handicap system! The route is essentially the Cilcain skyline, albeit done in the dark. Over to the Nannerch bridleway and then up to a checkpoint on thr ridge. We took the Tir Gofal traverse line, unsurprisingly muddy throughout, and I began to tire for the steep final climb to Moel Famau, atmospheric in the mist with distant headtorches from rival teams. Then a good but muddy descent, with a variation route down the bridleway and up the pump house climb to finish back at the White Horse for a cosy pint and debrief.

Western Howgills

Peaks: Uldale Head, Docker Knott, Over Sale, Fell Head, Linghaw

Area: Howgills, Yorkshire Dales

Last time I was here was descending into these obscure valleys high above the M6 for high-value checkpoints on the two mountain marathons I've done in the Howgills. I have often gazed up at the tops when driving along the motorway but have never actually approached from the western side. It was a perfect option for M and I this morning en route to Glasgow in crisp sunshine. It was cold, however,  very cold in fact and the little lane from Tebay (just off the M6) was steep and icy, but I calculated it would just about thaw for the return journey. A complex start involved an icy barefoot river crossing, fairly agonising, before a steep zigzag haul up to Uldale Head which had a frozen pond, thick sheets of ice, near the top. Superb view of the hills to come, but then came a steep descent which M didn't enjoy much, losing height before climbing back up Docker Knott and then a gentler pull to the top of Fell Head. This is the main hill in these parts with expansive views to Ingleborough and the Dales, and also across to High Street, Harter Fell and the Lakes. A light dusting of snow, and crisp sunshine, all added to the scene. Then came a really superb descent over a broad ridge to Linghaw back to the car, only marred by the M6 which is otherwise surprisingly unobtrusive. After a pie in Tebay services, we continued to Glasgow via Moffat.

Tal y Fan

Peaks: Tal y Fan

Area: Carneddau, Eryri

Yet another variation loop up Tal y Fan, pleasing that I can still find different routes up a mountain familiar from dozens if not hundreds of ascents over decades. In this case I parked near the water gardens, heading past Tyddyn Mawr to the scout hut and then up through the woods via the Pilgrims Route to Llangelynin Old Church, which looked superb in the morning winter light, the weather far better than forecast. Then came a ferocious headwind, which made the climb to Tal y Fan really hard, particularly with sore legs after yesterday's plunge. At the top, superb views over the Conwy Valley with the sun peeping out of cloud layers and glinting off the river in wonderful soft light. The descent was still into the wind, but I took the direct route down from the stile reaching the road from the summit in 12 minutes. Then I took a circuitous route back via Maen y Bardd, the superb neolithic burial chamber I think I have only found once before. Steeply back down via the edge of Rowen to Gwern Borter and the car.

Jubilee Plunge

Race: Jubilee Plunge

Time/Position: 13.46 

An eight year gap since I last did this event, for the very good reason that it cripples me for around a week. This despite the fact that it is 3.5k in total. Having said that, it is completely unique and hugely enjoyable. In the past I have done it from Cilcain, jogging over then hills and then back. Today I drove to Llangynhafal and plodded up to the start on top of Moel Famau, which takes around 40 minutes! Some mist on top, and a bit chilly, but generally conditions were good. I started too slow, which is not advisable on this race. This meant it was difficult to really open up on the initial very steep drop from Famau, particularly with a fairly big field. Just below Moel Dywyll, the route kinks left and plummets down perfect grassy slopes to reach the lane in 10 minutes. I remember taking a short cut across fields here, but now the route goes down the road before two or three muddy fields lead down to the finish at the Golden Lion. I was annoyed to finish over a minute slower than my previous times for the route.

Round the Walls

Race: Round the Walls (4m)

Time/Position: 24.58 (25th from 553 [1st V50])

Almost a minute and 11 places down on last year, but I was still quite pleased with this outing, perhaps the 15th time I've done the race. The same course as we have enjoyed for the last few years, a really satisfying loop which takes in the full walls anticlockwise. The Roodee was very boggy this year, which will have had some effect on times, and the weather was foggy, cold and damp. Pleased to win my age category, something I've managed a few times at this, one of my favourite races and one of the oldest in the region. Kate and Morgan enjoyed it too.

Bronwen via Wayfarers

Peaks: Cadair Bronwen

Area: Berwyn

A shorter than usual pre-Christmas outing this year, but at least we continued to observe the tradition. It was a very enjoyable repeat of a route I first did last winter, a route which minimises the bog. Minimises, not eliminates, of course. I set off from Llandrillo with Jez and Hayley, up the familiar steep track which leads to the crossroads and is very boggy at this time of yeat. Instead of turning right for Bronwen, we continued up the Wayfarers Pass, which is a continuous 6.5k climb from the village. It was cold at the pass, so we put on extra layers and then embarked on the long boggy section over the hills to Bronwen. This became increasingly snowy until there was a good layer on the tops. A biting windchill on the summit of Bronwen, so we ploughed down to the col and then took the contouring, boggy tracks all the down to a detour up to the stone circle, Moel Ty Uchaf. We warmed up in front of the fire at The Bridge.

Prestatyn parkrun

'Race': Prestatyn parkrun

Time/Position: 19.18 (3rd from 90)

Into the inevitable headwind, supposedly 40mph, on the outward leg this morning. It didn't quite have the impact I had expected, however, and soon turned to a tailwind as we headed back east. The finish was tougher, of course, back into the wind, and I got beaten into third place right at the end. Only half a minute down on my best time for the course, so not bad in the circumstances.

Castleton skyline

A delightful Peak District walk with M after arrival in the hostel. We headed direct up small paths to the stone pavement that leads steeply to Lose Hill - sunny but a biting northerly, very cold. We walked along the Great Ridge all the way to Mam Tor, one of England's finest, easiest and most popular hill walks, far more familiar to me from classic fell races like Edale Skyline and Tour of Bradwell. Down to Mam Nick, across the fields to Winnats Pass, and then along to Cave Dale, which I remembered from the Tour of Bradwell and wanted to show M. A nice sheltered contrast to the ridge. Then back via the village. Next day I woke before dawn and ran the same route to Mam Tor, taking variation descent paths.

Glyder Fawr max

Peaks: Glyder Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

One way of maximising a mountain! After a light breakfast I set off running from Pant y Fron, with the vague intention of breaking 30 minutes to Pen y Pass. The last time I ran this way was probably the Snowdonia Marathon almost 20 years ago. I would be surprised if I did it more quickly then, as I felt quite good this morning. It is pretty steep in places, but conditions were good, dank and misty and empty of traffic at this hour in December. My companions got the bus from Nant Peris and we met at PyP (precisely 28 minutes from the hut) where I changed into my mountain clothes and put my road shoes in the sac they had brought up for me! A novel start, and then it was into the slog from PyP. This is boggy and quite unpleasant, most familiar to me from the descent on Pedol Peris (and the 1000s). It led to a rather icy summit with some old snow - very cold feet as I only had my fell running shoes on. A spectacular clearance over Nant Francon as we descended to Llyn y Cwn, then Emma, Peter and I dropped down direct to the Pass. This path is easy at first, then surprisingly awkward and steep - I had only taken it once before.

Pedol Marchlyn

Peaks: Carnedd y Filiast, Mynydd Perfedd, Elidir Fawr

Area: Glyderau, Eryri

The little horseshoe works perfectly as a pre-hut night outing, so I deployed it again today as I only had a few hours of daylight left on arrival in Deiniolen. I usually start from the village but this time drove up the Marchlyn road and started higher. From here, it is quick progress up the unsightly tarmac road towards the lakes. At the end, a steep curving climb gains the pass overlooking Ogwen. Then it was into the clag for the awkward rocky haul to Carnedd y Filiast, just over 40 minutes from the car. Then the flat jog across to Perfedd before taking the direct shortcut to Elidir. I lost enough height here to emerge from the cloudbase temporarily. From the summit I dropped down in a fairly direct line through the scree to gain the grassy lower slopes, which are very runnable and enjoyable. Around 1.20 for the circuit, and then another convivial evening at the hut.

Dash in the Dark

Race: Dash in the Dark, race 2

Time/Position: 28.25 (7th from 68)

As my fallow year comes to an end, I have eased off the races and sessions even more, but this little race always represents a decent lung-buster to jolt me out of my torpor. I have done many variations of these nighttime races over many years, since they started in fact, and today was different again. I would never be able to recreate any of them, such is the complexity of the Llandegla forest with all its twists, turns and micropaths. I started conservatively but did pick up quite a few places during the race, which is always a positive sign. And I enjoyed it, which is another. Excellent beer and chip butties at the Rose and Crown, as Storm Darragh began to gather force outside.