Mont Pelat

Peaks: Mont Pelat (3050m)
Area: Mercantour Alps, France
This peak dominates the northern end of the Mercantour and was an appealing objective from the refuge. I left just before 6am: the idea being that I'd run up the peak and return before breakfast was over. I achieved this, just! Despite its height, Pelat is an easy tourist mountain with a superbly engineered path all the way to the top. As such, it can be treated purely as a run/fast walk and was relaxing and hugely enjoyable throughout. Again, totally different in character from the peaks I've done in the rest of the Mercantour. I scampered through the woods towards a flat meadow, then began the climbing after I crossed the Meouille stream. An enormous zigzag contoured up through the Barre du Pelat, a large rockband, gaining more grassy slopes further west. I half jogged, half walked up this steeper section - already slowing in the thin air, to gain the desolate moonscape of the Combe de Pelat. No big clapier fields to slow progress here, as is typical further south. Instead, a vast cwm of scree: entirely featureless, yet quite dramatic. To the east, the curiously named Trou de l'Aigle towers impressively. I kept a decent pace going and finally emerged into welcome sunshine at the summit ridge. The east ridge then gives easy but enjoyable scrambling to the top (64 mins from the hut: guidebook time is 3hrs). Superb views in all directions, although I was particularly taken with the view north over la Grande Cayolle towards Le Cimet. Weird wispy strands of lenticular cloud moved over the summits, constantly shifting position. From the summit, I picked out Viso, Gelas, Argentera and the peaks done last year like Corborant and Tenibre. The much higher Ecrins were obvious further north, reminding me of my trip there in 1994 - and I could also pick out the Castellane summits much further south. It was cold enough to require hat and down jacket - still just after 7am. I ran down without incident in around 50 minutes to the hut, where I just caught the tail end of the petit dejeuner - although the coffee was getting cold. After airing our stuff, we then enjoyed a delightful stroll around the Lac d'Allos. It was still early, before the crowds arrived, and we had it to ourselves. The weather was crisp and perfectly clear, and the children enjoyed it: a memorable hour. We strolled back to the car later that morning, driving to Nice via Annot.

Tours des Lacs

Peaks: La Petit Tour (2693m), La Grande Tour (2745m)
Area: Les Tours du Lac, Mercantour Alps, France
This was the last weekend of our holiday, so a family trip to the Alps seemed appropriate. We drove up via Castellane and lunch in wonderful Colmars, stopping at the highest car park above Allos. I've wanted to visit this area for years, and it was fantastic to be able to take the family with me for their first night in an Alpine refuge. This region is very different in character to the core region of the Mercantour that I know so well: much more open, less dramatic, but exquisitely beautiful. We ambled up through the trees, and it was refreshing to be relaxed and unhurried for once. After a short, steeper climb we had our first view of the stunning Lac d'Allos: deep blue water, framed by pine trees and the Tours de Lac. The Tours are a group of mini-dolomitic peaks that circle the lake, and I immediately thought it would be nice to go up them. So after dumping sacs in the refuge, we all walked up on the path towards the Col de l'Encombrette. The children were tired and not particularly happy, so they rested with Kate in a meadow east of Tete de Monier. The spectacular views of Mont Pelat did not improve their moods! So my time was limited again, and I set off running for the col. This was tremendous, nicely runnable (past several marmots) and I gained the col quickly, setting out immediately up the ridge due east towards the Petit Tour. This gave an enjoyable ascent, clearly quite popular (although it was mid-afternoon and I was entirely alone), and gave superb views north over Lac d'Allos and Pelat, and south over unfamiliar territory to the Tete de l'Encombrette. The eroded summit tower, which looks sheer, had an obvious weakness which led via a short scramble to the small summit. From here, the Grande Tour looked great and bore an uncanny resemblance to Torridonian mountains like Beinn Alligin. I had time to do it if I rushed, so scampered down the ridge - tremendous views on all sides - contouring up and beneath the peak until I found a weakness in the rockband which encircled the summit tower. A family of chamois gave me a clue, and I quickly located a hidden sandy gully which led easily to the upper scree slopes and the top. I could have continued in this vein, bagging all the peaks in a giant loop of the lake, but I had to get back to the meadow. I reversed my footsteps, contouring the Petit Tour lower down, and running almost flat out from the Col. Just over an hour for both peaks from the meadow. We all ambled down to the hut where we spent a highly enjoyable evening just enjoying the scenery and ambience.

Montagne de Thiey

Peaks: Montagne de Thiey (1553m)
Area: Siagne-Loup, Provence
I always like to have at least one family day among the limestone 'clues' and hills of Haute Provence. Today, the plan was to traverse Bauroux from Seranon. However, it became clear quite quickly that there were access issues, and we retreated to the Col de Valferriere where we all walked up through the Bois de Cornay to enjoy a wonderful picnic in a quite exceptional location - a beautiful plateau dotted with meadows and copses of pine, with far-reaching views over the limestone hills to the north and east. A tremendous impression of isolation despite proximity to the road. I then drove back towards Grasse, feeling underexercised, and parked at the bottom of the Vallon de Nans, where I was pleased to find a path up the Montagne de Thiey. It was the middle of the day, unfortunately, but not desperately hot (still slightly uncomfortable though). Plenty of shady snack spots for the children, but I didn't have much time, so set off without sac or water. The route was very runnable, luckily, with gentle zigzags leading through the forest to a levelling. Then wide forest roads eventually emerge from the treeline to give a final steeper ascent to gain the summit at the end of a big plateau. Instructive views down over the Pas de la Faye towards Grasse and the coast. Slightly hazy inland, but I could still make out previously climbed peaks around Castellane as well as the Maritime Alps. This outing followed two glorious early-morning loops of my favourite 8 mile Esterel 'Perthus' circuit on the 15th and 17th.

Cime Ouest de Fenestre

Peaks: Cime Ouest de Fenestre (2662m)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Severely pushed for time this morning, as I had to pick the family up from Nice airport at 10.15am! There was only one realistic option, and that was to run up one of the two little peaks above the Col de Fenestre. I left the hut just after 6am, knowing from previous experience that the path is superbly engineered and entirely runnable. Long zigzags lead gradually up to the Lac de Fenestre (just beyond the point I left the path when I did Cime St Robert last year). Slightly steeper ground led up the Col itself, the Italian border (39m from the hut). A vague path led up the ridge towards the Cime Ouest, before moving through a boulder field to an obvious gully. This was reminiscent of the gully on the normal route up Cime St Robert, and gives a steep but quick ascent to the bouldery summit. Some nice scrambling led over huge boulders along a final ridge to the true summit (55m from the hut). Good early morning views over to St Robert, Gelas, Ponset, and the impressive yet unheralded (not done by me anyway) Cime du Lombard. I picked my way back down to the Col, then ran back to the Madone in bang on 20 minutes. Ended up having time for a croissant in St Martin and a walk around Lantosque before the plane landed. Although this year's trip was very brief and not quite what I'd planned (marred by the after-effects of my bug) it was still a very enjoyable addition to the many memorable days I've spent in the Mercantour.

Mont Bego, Cime du Diable

Peaks: Mont Bego (2872m), Cime du Diable (2685m)
Area: Maritime Alps, France
Left the hut at 6am, feeling much better, to a glorious clear morning. I crossed the Lac Long dam wall and immediately started the climb up Mont Bego. By the usual Mercantour standards, this was well tracked out: clearly a popular route. It twisted round the southern spur of the mountain, up grass and scree, to finally gain sunshine and a fore summit. Then a lovely little ridge led across to a final scrambly ridge and the summit. I was up in around an hour, by 7am, and the view was superb. This peak really does have a claim to be the 'end of the Alps' - you do get that feeling, as the land south and east drops away to the Med. Views over Capelet, Gelas and the central Mercantour were excellent and it was nice to fill in this obvious gap in the range. I jogged down, without incident, and breakfasted just above the Merveilles Hut. I felt my normal self now, and was looking forward to putting my plans for the rest of the day into action. I headed towards the Pas du Trem from the hut, past an exquisite sequence of lakes. First came Lac Fourca, then the delightful Lac du Trem - a perfect foreground for pictures of Mont Bego. The path then contours past the much larger Lac de la Muta to gain gentler slopes leading up to the tiny Lacs du Diable and then the Pas du Trem. Another tremendous spot: a small col linking Merveilles with Gordolasque. Before I descended, however, I wanted to get up Cime du Diable, and again this proved very straitforward. A small path gained a steeper section then the vague east ridge to the summit. The day had stayed clear, giving fine views over to Gelas and back to Bego (which looked pleasingly distant). To the south, the GR52 follows long grassy ridges down to L'Authion: fine running terrain. I descended to the Pas, before enjoying a superb descent down the Vallon des Verrairiers. This was highly rewarding. Not a waymarked trail, but a small path weaved down through snowfields before negotiating the inevitable 'clapier' zone, finding a route through huge boulders, to the lush greenery of the lower valley. Wonderful stuff, and I prolonged my time here as much as possible. The verdant lower section was enlivened by a large toad literally landing on my foot as it leapt out of the vegetation fringing the narrow path near the river. The route became harder to follow as the valley merges with the Vallon de la Mairis - it kinked south through a forest to emerge in St Grat right next to the Relais des Merveilles, where I enjoyed a modest but splendid late lunch before walking back up the valley to the car at Pont du Countet. Drove round to the Madone de Fenetre via St Martin, and spent another excellent night in that refuge.

Gordalasque-Merveilles traverse

Still suffering from the after-effects of a stomach bug, so had to downscale my plans for the day after sleeping in the car in St Martin (having arrived on a late flight to Nice). The aim was to do Maledie - the most obvious remaining gap in my list of Mercantour peaks - before following the GR52 over to the Merveilles hut. However, I felt tired even during the walk from Pont du Countet in the Gordolasque valley to the Nice hut, which I usually do in less than an hour: clearly still a bit weak and affected. However, it was early and the weather was wonderful, so I just tried to enjoy the day and do the 'Tour du Grand Capelet' instead. This was quite an appealing option, as I had climbed and traversed the peak in 2008. An icy knee-deep river crossing just above the hut woke me up, and I made a half-hearted attempt at Cime Nire before concluding I definitely wasn't up to it. Lac Nire made a delightful breakfast spot, though, and the valley gets tighter and more dramatic as it heads past more little lakes to gain a large snowfield leading up to the Baisse du Basto. I was able to try out my kahtoolas on this, to good effect, until more scree and snow led to the Baisse: a superb spot at 2693m. I went up a small nearby peak (unnamed) for a bite to eat. The weather had changed quite dramatically during the climb, and dark clouds covered Mont Bego, while towering thunderheads began to appear above Ponset and Neiglier to the west. They got even more menacing as I contoured the scree above Lac Basto, and the rain started as I began the much shorter ascent to the second major col of the day: Baisse du Valmasque. Its evocative name (Sorceror's Pass) particularly apt today, as a loud clap of thunder greeted my arrival. I scampered down into the Merveilles Valley, in increasingly heavy rain, and eventually decided to seek shelter. I found an ideal 'howff' below a huge boulder and lay there in complete comfort as the worst of the rain passed over. The Vallee des Merveilles was a delight, although it remained cold and wet, and I soon reached the prehistoric rock engravings for which it is famous. I'd intended ambling along, but the rain got heavier again and became torrential as I arrived at the Merveilles hut. Another violent storm followed, but I was ensconced in the hut with hot chocolate by then. An evening ramble to Lac Saorgine, and a fine meal, prefaced a good night's sleep - despite the fact that the hut was jammed to full capacity.

Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 2

Race: SLMM (Scafell class) day 2 (24k/950m)
Time/Position: 6:58:50 (14:59 cumulative:13/16)
A complete contrast with yesterday: low cloud in the morning giving way to galeforce winds and driving rain which lasted all day. The essence of the mountain marathon experience and an enjoyable and satisfying test, although again we finished well down the field. A very steep climb up to the first checkpoint below Kentmere Pike was a brutal wake-up call, followed by easier contouring through the clag to Wren Gill. A tough leg over Gatesgarth Pass to CP 3 in a steep gully was draining: strong winds and torrential rain, although we had some relief from the wind as we retraced our steps over to (and down) Mosedale - some good running and good route planning over the side of Brunt Tongue, avoiding the bogs, to a CP on the top of Ulthwaite Rigg. Tricky navigation through knolls in the mist gained another CP at lonely Haskew Tarn, but we'd been up high for a while now in the worst of the weather and were starting to get cold. The next leg was clearly a toughie, with two choices: a big decision. I decided to go for the longer but less exposed option, given the weather, and it was a good decision. We jogged past delightful waterfalls at the bottom of Mosedale Beck to equally attractive Swindale, then took the Old Corpse Road to Mardale Common: breaking off to contour round to CP 6. More tricky nav over complex, lumpy terrain around Brown Howe - in thick mist - saw us gain CP 7 before good running and nav cut the corner to Harper Hills. We then made a mistake, careless navigation (tiring now) and had to retrace steps to a fence corner before taking a precise bearing to find CP 8 on a crag top. The route was in the bag now, apart from the climb back over Swindale to leave 'Lakeland' and gain the Pennine scenery and final check at Keld Gill. A ferocious squally shower was a fitting accompaniment at this late stage. A shame we couldn't have been more competitive (I would have liked to have done far more running, slightly frustrating especially on day one) but I still really enjoyed the Scafell class and found it about right in terms of distance and climb. There were so few competitors on it (compared to 70+ on the shorter classes) that you don't have the dreaded crocodiles to follow to the checkpoints - you are far more dependent on your own decisions and navigation, especially satisfying in these conditions.

Saunders Lakeland mountain marathon, day 1

Race: SLMM (Scafell class) day 1 (29k/1400m)
Peaks: High Raise, Rampsgill Head, High Street, Thornthwaite Crag
Area: Haweswater, Lake District
Time: 8:00:35
After thoroughly enjoying the Bowfell class on this event last year, we moved up a gear here and tackled the longest pairs class: the Scafell. The stats are misleading, as the distances are measured in a straight line, the climbs measured as optimal routes: so you actually cover far more ground (I'd estimate 60k over two days). The weather was perfect as we set out from Wetsleddale across typical Pennine scenery of marsh and peat hags, crossing (aesthetically) into Lakeland as we crossed Swindale between checkpoints one and two. A bridleway gave easy access to Haweswater before a gradual climb up to two more checkpoints on the moors north of the reservoir. We skirted Measand Beck before descending to a CP in Longgrain Beck and then climbed onto the High Street ridge near High Raise. Wonderful running along the ridge, the highlight of the weekend, with a light breeze and blue skies. Great views of the Lakes, with Helvellyn dominant to the west. Easy running over Rampsgill Head, High Street and Thornthwaite Crag. I'd visited the latter two a few years ago on the Kentmere horseshoe and so had some knowledge of the terrain. We descended steep scree to CP 6 above Kentmere Reservoir - unfortunately Stef had real problems here and we lost a lot of time, which then got worse as the next leg was the psychological crux. A huge climb back east over the ridge at Brown Howe then all the way over to Mosedale: good route-planning meant we minimised the effort but it was still hard work. We then contoured Brunt Tongue to gain the final two checks in peatbog between Little Mosedale and Greycrag tarn. Stef struggled again on the steep descent to the campsite and we finished well down the field. A beautiful campsite at the top of Longsleddale was ample compensation, though.

Llanberis slate climbs

Crag: Llanberis Slate
Routes: Solstice (HVS 5a:led), Septuagenarian (f5+/6a:led), Fool's Gold (E1 5c:sec), Tomb Raider (f6a,f3,f6a:led p.1,3), Horse Latitudes (f6a+:led), The Horsin' Around Finish (f6a+:led), Bela Lugosi is Dead (E1 5b:sec)
Heavy rain in the night, the first for weeks, meant we had to change our plans for the day. I'd planned to head into the hills, but quick-drying slate was the obvious safe option. Began, predictably enough, with a lead of Solstice, which takes the obvious line of hollow flakes left of Equinox (which I led many years ago). A very polished and rather awkward move, with little for the feet, gains a good hold before big flakes lead out right to an easy finish. We spied a line of new bolts on the descent. It looked quite a nice line, so I nipped up it. A short slab leads to good moves up and over a bulge before a traverse right leads to a good finish up a delicate slab. This is apparently given f6a but is 5+ at most. Nice climbing though, when compared to some of the scrappy bolted lines hereabouts. Because it was quiet we also nipped up Fool's Gold, a slate classic with one hard 5c move to gain the upper crack. The rest is quite straightforward but excellent throughout. After lunch, we enjoyed the novelty of a multi-pitch slate route in Never Never Land. Tomb Raider goes up a line of bolts on a short slab to a series of mantelshelves, which get progressively easier. Alwyn ambled right on the easy second pitch, before I led a nice final pitch around a small, fun overhang and up the obvious corner. Enjoyable, but again overgraded: 5+ at most. Then came a long but fascinating walk down through the quarries - new territory for me - looking for Horse Latitudes. This recently retro-bolted line used to weigh in at E3 5c but is now a superb 'easy' sports climb, in my view one of the best of its kind in Wales. It takes a vein of dolerite running up the arete on the left of a 30m high slab. Superb delicate climbing, quite technical and sustained but never particularly hard, leads up to a ledge. I then took the obvious Horsin' Around finish, which moves right round the upper arete to regain the dolerite. Up this steeply on small holds to the top. A great pitch with great moves, long enough to satisfy, as is the established classic Bela Lugosi to its right. Lovely climbing up the obvious slim, positive crack to a wider crack and a polished finale. Finished with a run through the quarries to Nant Peris, via the remarkable Twll Mawr, one of the wonders of Wales.

Llanddulas cave climbs

Crag: Llanddulas Cave
Routes: Not Runout Groove (f5+:led), Clipterfyn (f5+:sec), Udder Head (f6a:led), India-Rubber Head (f6a:sec), Rosalind Franklin's Picture (f5:sec), Guano on Sight (f6a+:sec)
After a short break for lunch after the race, I headed west immediately to sample the new bolted crag above Llanddulas. Unsurprisingly, I was rather tired and not on the best of form, so my initial lead up Runout Groove seemed awkward. Rather rounded holds and surprisingly steep climbing: a mantel leads to easier climbing to the upper groove. Dale's lead, Clipterfyn, was similarly awkward and also rather dirty. Fortunately, Udder Head was far better. Good positive climbing up a wall to a left-leaning vague groove which steepens to give a fine finish. Its companion route to the left was also good, and even juggier. It moves right on steeper ground to join Udder Head for the final steep mantel. We then moved round to the main cave for the truly bizarre Rosalind Franklin's Picture, which climbs a gully (actually inside the cave, so pretty gloomy) then bridges out on green holds to gain an upper chamber with a sea view. Guano on Sight was probably the most unsuitable route to finish on given my fatigue: a slightly overhanging boss of tufa climbed mainly on huge jugs. Rather pumpy, steep and strenuous, although very good. I needed a couple of rests and will definitely come back to do it when I haven't done a 6-peak fell race in the morning!

Moel y Gamelin fell race

Race: Moel y Gamelin (9.5m/2400ft/AM)
Time/Position: 1:24:46 (4th from 52 [1st v40])
A few seconds slower than the last time I did this race in 2008, which was disappointing. However, it was supposedly the hottest day of the year so far and certainly felt it for the final climbs back over Gamelin. I started out quite fast over the first four hills - Moel y Faen, Gamelin, Moel y Gaer and Morfydd. It was a small field, so by the time I climbed over Morfydd I was way behind Neil, Jez and the leader, and well in front of the rest of the field. A lovely cooling breeze helped the first part of the 'moorland' section west of Bwlch y Groes. This is lonely country at the best of times, so it was very peculiar to be out of sight of any other runners. Good though, and I kept a reasonable pace until the final climb, when the stifling heat became a factor. No breeze here, and it was hard to keep motivated in the circumstances! The Conquering Hero bridleway to the ridge was OK but the climbs back over Gamelin and Moel y Faen were very hot and therefore very draining - I lost a lot of time here as I slackened off, feeling very tired, after first confirming nobody was gaining ground behind. I finished 1st v40 again. It's been a good fortnight (or 12 days!), with three category wins and one narrow second, although it's probably been largely by default, with stronger runners not turning up.

Hotfoot up Famau race

Race: Hotfoot up Famau fell race (3.5m/1200ft/AS)
Time/Position: 38:41 (4th from 65 [1st v40])
Cooler than expected tonight, very dry underfoot, with bracken perhaps a little lower than usual. Some explanation perhaps for the fact that I took 2:16 off my pb for this tough and excellent race - the first of the enjoyable Clwydian summer series. Definitely stepped up a gear too, deliberately started fast, plummeting down the valley from OD towards Fron Bellaf in third place. Kept it going quite well, quick pace down the narrow path with one close shave after a slip, and ran more of the very steep hill up Moel y Gaer than in previous years. Still well placed as we continued up the ridge before another fast descent down to Nant y Ne. No breeze at all for the climb back towards the gully - humid and hard as a result. As ever, the gully gave a desperate struggle up to the summit. But I didn't blow up and found myself alone for the long fast descent down OD to the finish. First vet for the second time in a week (shame I narrowly missed the hat-trick last Saturday!).

Craig Ddu (etc) climbs

Crag: Craig Ddu, Llanberis
Routes: Crown of Thorns (S 4a:led p.1,2), Yellow Groove (VS 4b:led)
Crag: Drws y Gwynt, Llanberis
Routes: Cracked Wall (S:led), Little Sepulchre (VS 4b:sec)
Crag: Cefn Braich, Llanberis
Routes: Rib Route (VD:led p.2)
With the fine weather continuing, it seemed time to go for a venue that needs a drought for the routes to be feasible (or enjoyable). Craig Ddu was the obvious choice, with the seeping black wall on the left of the crag rarely in any kind of condition. Crown of Thorns goes straight up this wall, and was a pleasant and almost completely dry outing today. The atmosphere is rather sombre though, particularly as the sun had yet to hit the crag when I began. The route is simple but pleasant, up good holds to a ledge, before a groove on the right gains a platform. I continued up the next pitch, a slanting rampline up to a corner. After bringing up Alwyn, I led the short final pitch, up a slabby wall to a tricky steeper move which gains the top. We then moved across to the right of the crag, which has much more in common with the other crags on the south side of the pass: clean, friendly and sunny. Alwyn scrambled up to the base of Yellow Groove, which I then led. This is a superb pitch, as good as anything in Snowdonia at this grade, albeit marred by its brevity. The groove looks smooth and hard from below, but this is an illusion as it is furnished with huge holds. An initial crack leads to great moves right below an overhang. This gains a small ledge below the clean-cut groove: great climbing up this, using big holds on the edge in a great position (with superb protection) gains another small ledge and a more delicate, slabby finish. We tried to descend on the right of the crag, but this is problematic and involved a huge detour which brought us out below another crag. I recognised this as Drws y Gwynt and, although we had no guidebook, the lines looked obvious - so I led what turned out to be Cracked Wall. This is another of those easy little gems - it goes up on massive holds to gain a steep crack and a very steep finish (for the grade) which is climbed on huge pinnacle holds. Incredible rough rock and a great position high above the Pass make up for its shortness. Took the opportunity while here to also climb the obvious corner crack of Little Sepulchre: sustained and rather physical. I then wanted to lead Zigzag but Alwyn was tiring so we finished with Rib Route, a little VD, instead. Glorious sunshine as we descended, so I stopped off in Aber and ran from the A55 to Aber Falls in 15 minutes, partly because I was curious to see how much water was left. Answer: not much. Beautiful warm sunshine on the way back with the sea glistening below, lovely easy running.

Moel Hebog fell race

Race: Ras Moel Hebog (4m/2400ft/AS)
Peaks: Moel Hebog
Time/Position: 55:57 (9th from 43 [2nd v40])
A great event and a classic short fell race, made even better by the perfect weather which continues to provide remarkable clarity of light and helpful dry conditions underfoot. Preparation for this was hardly ideal - 1000ft of rock climbing and nine hours on your feet the day before a race is probably not in any training manual. However, I didn't feel too bad through the delightful woods that lead from the pretty, sun-drenched meadow at the edge of Beddgelert to the track which takes you down to the base of the climb. Then comes a relentless ascent, which I have walked a few times before, up steep grass initially to a shoulder, then along the vague ridge which runs below the crags then curves right up rocky and very steep ground to the summit plateau. My legs inevitably began to tire before the top, partly because of recent activity, although I managed to pick up the pace across the top (36m to trig point) and descended the rocky terrain at the top quite well, moving into 7th or 8th place initially before others took better 'micro-lines' through the tricky terrain lower down. The descent is notoriously punishing for the quads, so I was pleased to keep it going reasonably well, especially when it levels off near the bottom (19m from summit to village). However, I did develop an enormous blister across the base of my heel, which rendered the last section uncomfortable. I got into a sprint finish with another chap, not realising it was actually a sprint for first v40. I ended up missing first place in the category by 6 seconds! Finished 2nd v40.

Idwal enchainement

Crag: East Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: East Wall Girdle (VS 4a,4b,4b,4b:led p.1,3)
Crag: Holly Tree Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: Original Route (VS 5a:sec)
Crag: Continuation Wall, Cwm Idwal
Routes: Groove Above (S 4b:led)
Crag: Upper Cliff, Glyder Fawr
Routes: Grey Arete (HVS 4c,4c,5a:led p.1,2)
A magnificent day, with precisely 1,010ft of high quality climbing. East Wall Girdle has long been a target of mine, an intriguing long rising traverse which starts up the first pitch of Tennis Shoe and gradually weaves its way across this complex wall. I've led this pitch before and it's an enjoyable, though polished, romp up a subsidiary slab which I merged with the second pitch of the Girdle. Immediately, the polish is gone - replaced by the superbly rough bubbly rock of the East Wall. An easy quartz slab leads to a stance, after which Vic merged another pitch (conventional p.3+4) to the stance on Rake End Chimney. This was excellent, up another slab to a steepening, with a tricky move round a bulge to gain the Heather Wall slab. Some drizzle but it didn't matter, and it soon stopped. Great climbing on bubbly rock led left across the slab to a delicate move round an arete to gain the stance. I then led another long merged pitch, across an undulating line of weakness on perfect rock to gain the Ash Tree Wall, followed by the easy gangway that leads to the 'Meadow'. Vic finished up the final pitch, shared with Grooved Wall, up a steep wall in a good position before moving left and finishing up a splendid final groove. A terrific route, a Welsh classic, never technical but superbly sustained at a gentle standard and long enough to really satisfy. We were carrying a sac, by necessity on such a day, and scrambled across and down to enjoy lunch below Holly Tree Wall. Sunshine started to peep through as Vic led Original Route in one pitch. This is another cracking route, with a famously awkward start to gain a short groove. This didn't seem too hard, solved by a little side-pull, and gives access to the delightful Crescent Slab, which leads easily to a chimney. This was almost impossible to get up with my sac, so I moved out onto the left wall for a hard move on small positive holds (much harder than the supposed crux at the start). Easy climbing leads to a big ledge directly below Groove Above, which I led immediately. Again, this has a notorious awkward start, which again is only a few inches above the ground. Solved this fairly comfortably, to give nice climbing up a positive groove before the route quickly peters out on ledges which lead out to a rib and the top. Dehydration was now inevitably kicking in, as we finished our small bottle of water, but I managed to locate a stream as we continued up the scrambling terrain diagonally rightwards to the Grey Group. I remember doing a similar combination of linked routes here years ago, finishing with Grey Slab and thinking what a magnificent place this upper cliff is. This time, it had to be Grey Arete, which looks absolutely compelling from every angle. I led up the initial groove, which requires a semi-layback up a positive flake edge which eventually allows for a skip right to the arete itself. Easy climbing up this, on perfect rock, gains the belay: intricate, immaculate climbing, a great pitch. The position of the belay makes it impossible to merge, so I bought Vic up before continuing up the second pitch. This follows big pockets to a delicate and committing move on small holds. Tendrils of mist swept down the crag as I started up the wall - superbly atmospheric and memorable. Vic then led the final pitch up a steep flake which leads after one tricky move to a wide positive crack and easy shelves: the mist peeled away as I followed to reveal Llyn Idwal shimmering far below. A marvellous, classic climb in a truly wonderful position above it all and finishing near the top of Glyder Fawr. Three short cruxes, one on each pitch, but the route is generally straitforward enough to allow the position and line to be fully savoured. After an interesting scramble upwards, we traversed across to the top of Senior's Ridge and descended this to the East Wall Gully scramble - which gave more rock work back to the other sac where we'd started seven hours ago. As we descended further, all the mist and cloud gradually cleared with some wonderful effects, to leave an evening of unusual light clarity.

Helsby climbing

Crag: Helsby
Routes: Little by Little (S 4a:led), Notch Direct (S 4b:led), Oyster Slab Direct (VS 4b:sec), Oyster Slab Super Direct (HS 5a:sec), Green Teeth Gully (M!), Oblique Crack (HVD:led), Cloister Traverse (S 4a:sec)
This crag, so green and unappealing in winter, was rather pleasant this evening: beautifully sunny and warm. Didn't start climbing until 7pm, with a lead of Little by Little - ironically one of the very few routes here that I've done before. This takes chipped steps to a slanting groove, short but pleasant and simple. I then continued direct up the jugs to the atmospheric Notch finish through a sort of open gully. A nice long pitch, makes the best of the crag. Far-reaching views from the top in beautiful evening sunshine, unusual clarity over the industry of the Mersey to Liverpool, and left over the Cheshire plain to the Clwydians. Dale then led Oyster Slab direct on small edges, followed by the Super Direct with a tricky first move. Oblique Crack was an unpleasant slanting crack on the lower tier while Cloister Traverse is a long (30m) but weird pitch which takes the obvious break, starting and finishing on the ground.

The Beast fell race

Race: The Beast (4.5m/1500ft/AS)
Time/Position: 39:06 (5th from 72 [1st v40])
A new route this year, which doubles the intensity of the climbs and makes it into a much tougher, better proposition. A beautiful evening, still and sunny, and fortunately a much improved performance. Decent pace maintained through the woods, then managed to keep running (slowly) all the way up 'the beast' to the limestone pavement at the top of Bryn Alyn. After descending to the bridleway, the new route heads straight back up the steepest, most tussocky slopes to revisit Bryn Alyn for a second time before descending the beast. Myself and Simon stayed together the whole way before I got a slight second wind as the route levelled out after climbing back through the woods to Maeshafn. Unfortunately, a couple of the top runners got lost, as had numerous runners (20?) lower down the field, which meant I gained a few places to finish 5th overall and 1st v40.

Foel Fras fell race

Race: Ras Foel Fras (12.8m/3800ft/AL)
Peaks: Drum, Foel Fras, Garnedd Uchaf, Moel Wnion
Time/Position: 1:59:18 (20/84)
After the drama of last year, when bad weather decimated the field and allowed me to get quite a good finishing position, this excellent circuit of the northern Carneddau was tranquil and dry today. Conditions were ideal for fast times, although for the third successive race I felt distinctly off-form. I struggled on all the climbs, not even managing to run all the way up the relatively gentle climb from Aber to the summit of Drum (although it is more than six miles long). Some mist and wind over Foel Fras and Garnedd Uchaf, although nothing compared to last year, and dry underfoot. I took a reasonable line through the boulders below Drosgl although my shoe came off at one point and I struggled again for the steep sting in the tail up Moel Wnion, the fourth peak. Superb sea views cheered me up, and I managed to put a spurt on for the great descent to the village to dip under two hours for this pleasingly logical round. Only 12 days since the marathon, so I suppose I'll have to blame that for my lack of endurance.

Chester Marathon

Race: Chester Marathon
Time/Position: 3:01:02 (45th from 800)
I could hardly avoid doing this, the inaugural 'home' marathon two days after my 40th birthday. I knew the course would be a grim slog, and wasn't really looking forward to it, but in the event it proved better than expected. Frustratingly, however, I wasn't able to take advantage of the perfect set of circumstances which should have led to a PB: namely, nine hours sleep in my own bed, cool and still conditions, and two days rest and calorific intake on the shores of Tal y Llyn celebrating my 40th over the weekend. It all started well, nicely controlled pace, going through half-way at Hawarden bridge bang on PB target in 1:27:06. I then upped the pace very slightly, working well with a chap from Wellingborough, before starting to struggle just after 20m (which I went through in just under 2:13). Began to slow down, before a crippling stitch hit me just as I ran past my workplace! This reduced me to a literal walk - losing minutes as my 2:53 target disappeared - before I was able to jog painfully through Guilden Sutton to the finish. A disappointing 18th V40 in my first race in the new category.

Arenig climbs

Crag: Simdde Ddu, Arenig Fawr
Routes: Gyllion (HVS 5a,4c,4c:sec)
It seemed like a good idea to squeeze a trip to this new venue into a three-hour post-work late afternoon window before the Famau run. It wasn't, and we very nearly abandoned the reccie amidst the steep scree and impenetrable vegetation that leads to the crag from the shores of the lake. We persisted, though, as the weather was fabulous, and eventually located the impressive South face of Simdde Ddu. Sadly, and frustratingly, we only had time for a single route. Vic merged all the pitches of Gyllion together to give a pleasant appetite-whetter. The first pitch follows a hairline crack up a steep slab on immaculate compact rock: some delicate moves on small positive holds. The second and third continue up slightly dirty but enjoyable juggy cracklines. The route is overgraded (VS 5a at the most) but good, although perhaps not quite warranting the three stars it gets in the guidebook. The outlook from the crag is superb: far-reaching views over Llyn Tegid and Berwyn, nobody in sight. I am developing an increasing appetite for these wonderfully quiet and remote Meirionydd crags: shame this was such a brief day. We jogged back to the car and even had time for a quick coffee before the run from the Collie up Famau, followed by a few birthday drinks with Neil.

Filiast climbs

Crag: Carnedd y Filiast
Routes: Central Route (S:led p.2), Left Edge (VD:led p.1,3), Bracken Corner (S:led), Friction (VD:sol)
A mountaineering day in this wonderful cwm, which gives a tremendous sense of isolation despite its relative proximity to the road. The weather was rather threatening as we set out on the steep walk-in, feeling slightly tired after a night at the Brewery Tap. The sharp slog sorted me out, and Central Route on the Red Slab was an ideal way to continue my recovery - a very gentle 100m wedge of perfect rock. Alwyn and I climbed together up the initial 30m, padding up a delicate seam with superb friction, before tying on to scamper up the top half of the slab (which is even easier). Some light drizzle as we contoured through thick heather to the foot of Left Edge, which takes an attractive line up a long curving slab to the right of the main area of slabs (Creigiau Rowlar). It's similar to Atlantic Ridge to its left (which we did two years ago) but gives better and more continuous climbing, albeit extremely simple. We romped up the route very quickly in four 50m pitches, keeping right on the edge: perfect gritstone-like rock, all very enjoyable, particularly when the sun came out. After descending the ridge, it was still very early (lunchtime), so I led Bracken Corner on Tree Slab (having done the other routes hereabouts). It takes a rough, quartzy crack to a tree, then finishes up a pleasant corner. Some vegetation, as with the other routes here, but quite nice climbing on perfect rock. Finished by nipping up the arete on the left, and descended in warm sunshine as the clouds cleared.

Hill training

Quite a good week's training, going some way to make up for last Sunday's disappointing performance. Finally able to concentrate on improving hill fitness, with runs up Hope Mountain on Tuesday, Waun y Llyn on Wednesday (a long double loop), the Famau run on Friday and shorter runs in between. Early this morning I set a pb for the Collie Famau run of 57:23 (33:57 to the summit).

Chester half marathon

Race: Chester half marathon
Time/Position: 1:22:37 (33rd from 2000)
My worst performance in any race for two years. Had high hopes for a big pb on my 6th running of this event, and set out at 5:50 pace which I sustained until 9-10 miles (the hill to Eccleston). I was comfortably on for my target time of 1:18, but then blew completely. Jogged the last three miles, almost walking pace. Genuinely surprised to blow up: I'd felt fine on the run up Famau on Friday, although perhaps was still feeling the effects of our frenetic climbing trip.

Roussivau climbs

Crag: Barre du Roussivau, Esterel, France
Routes: La Revolte des Naines (f6a:led), Rencontres du Troisieme Slip (f5c:sec), Sexe=Desordre (f5c:sec), Pachyderme Story (f6a:led), Dissident Sakhapov (f5c:sec), Be the One (f5b:sec), Turn it on Again (VD!:led), Take Off* (f5c:led), Out of the Blue (f4:led), Zootomie (f5:led), Zog (f6a:sec)
The day dawned warm and sunny, easily the best weather of the trip. We were inevitably tiring, and were considering Chateaudouble, but in the end settled for the nearby crag of Roussivau. I did many routes on this crag in the 90s, and my notes from the time are very enthusiastic. So it was rather surprising to find the routes a tad disappointing: we may have been tired, or spoiled by the quality of the previous three days. More likely is the fact that I tried to do routes I hadn't done before, and therefore missed some of the classics. After another 5 mile morning run around the Castelli circuit, we drove the 2km to the crag and enjoyed the steep approach walk in glorious sunshine. La Revolte (6a) was a nice start, although slightly wet, up a crack which led to an awkward crux mantel (knees!) to a sloping ledge. The two routes on the left of this sector weren't as good as I remembered: a rock scar suggests 'evolution' had occurred in the intervening 16 years! I then led Pachyderme Story, a nice 6a line which aims for a hanging pod-like groove, which gives enjoyable bridging up to jugs. Dissident Sakhapov looks awful: mossy and green, but gives quite good steep climbing up rough, positive holds. Seconded Vic up Be the One on the main 'wave' face, before experiencing my first DNF of the trip on a short 6a+ behind the easy arete (which I then climbed to retrieve the gear). Definitely tiring now: failed again on Take Off, an undergraded very short f5c which takes a steep and insecure groove. A nasty route, giving seemingly desperate climbing on sloping holds (although tiredness was definitely a factor now). I made it to the top move, within inches of the LO, but was now completely drained of energy. Started to wind down thereafter, with a lead of the pleasant f4 which takes an obvious groove on the 'wave' face (my final tick on this face after a 16 year gap!). We finished on the lovely little slab, where I did two routes I've done numerous times before - Zootomie up the crack in the arete, and the technical slab taken by Zog. Spent some time enjoying the wonderful atmosphere of this special place, and the views over the Esterel, before starting the descent through the maquis. A great trip:, even better than last year: maximising the time available, concentrating on quality routes, very lucky with the weather, which was unsettled but dry when we needed it to be. Fortunate to dodge the ash cloud too!

Blavet climbs

Crag: Rive Droite, Gorges du Blavet
Routes: Pepin le Bref (f5c,f5c:led p.2)
Crag: Colle Rousse, Gorges du Blavet
Routes: 19 La Placette (f5c:sec)
Crag: La Capelle Aval, Gorges du Blavet
Routes: DRZ Sena Mrane Droite (f5c:led), DRZ Gauche (f4b:sec), Du Pof Des Baffes Un Pet (f5c+:led), Ascenseur Pour les Scatos (f6b+:sec), Les Pets de la Dame aux Cleps (f6b:sec)
The rain continued for most of the night, but it was drying as we set off for Blavet. The skies were slightly threatening as we descended to the crag, intent on a route in the gorge proper this year (after scratching the surface on the Face Sud and Petit Canyon last year). Pepin le Bref was the obvious choice as the first, and most amenable, route on the Rive Droite. I'd located the initial chimney pitch on a reccie last summer, and managed to find it again after a jungle-bashing scramble. Vic led the first pitch, and it was excellent - remarkably dry after the downpour. A steep chimney, with juggy holds, narrows to give some bridging over a bulge to easier ground. Above this, a superbly steep layback crack - in a splendid position - gives excellent climbing until a move left gains a belay ledge. I led the final pitch up a mossy slab via an awkward mantel move, to gain a long sentry-box feature. This was awkward and wet in places - with more bridging - until a steep move out left gains a big hold and pull up to easy ground and the top of the gorge. A great HVS climb: 'ambience grand canyon, tarif abordable'! I descended all the way back to the base, tiring, to get the sacks. We then had lunch above the canyon before walking in to Colle Rousse, a new venue (visible from miles around and often mistaken for the gorge itself - which is actually hidden from view). This was hard to find, not popular, and the routes were even harder to locate and identify. However, Vic eventually set out on 19 La Placette in light rain. This got heavier as I followed on, but the rock was so rough and perfect (after a friable first few metres) that it hardly mattered. The climb packed a lot in to a short space: a good crack led enjoyably to a pull on to the upper wall, with sharp little holds leading to the crux over a bulge at the top. The rain that had threatened all morning started in earnest as I began another 5c further right, so we abandoned the crag and scampered down to the car. After a drink, however, the sun came out, and I suggested stopping for a look at La Capelle Aval before heading for home. We were tiring, but this was a good decision. A four minute walk-in gains the crag, which was far better than I'd expected: an excellent venue. I started by leading the obvious, slightly precarious arete of DRZ on a subsidiary slab hidden behind the main faces: this was delicate with some excellent sharp pockets, but rendered slightly tricky by lichen and moss. A much easier line takes the wide crack in the slab further left, which I also did. I got my second wind at last, and went for Du Pof, which takes the obvious arete to the left of the main face - up to the wide crack which is visible from quite a long way off. This was a great pitch, unexpected, varied and surprising, and a real bonus after a weather-affected day. Steep moves up an awkward chimney gain the main slab, which then becomes wonderfully delicate as it makes its way up to the wide crack. Some thuggy jamming up the crack eventually allows another move out left to the arete itself before an easier slabby finish. Excellent stuff. We took the opportunity to second two more technical pitches further right, and both were excellent. Ascenseur was theoretically the hardest pitch of the trip at 6b+, but didn't seem too bad. Very steep and strenuous at first, then sustained but easier moves lead to a hard, almost blank slab. We should perhaps have taken this further left, but chalk lead diagonally right to the upper wall. Les Pets had another technical and strenuous start before more excellent face climbing. Finished off with a 4-5 mile run (the Castelli circuit) around the Esterel hills: fairly tired by the time we got to 'refuel'.

Pic du Perthus climbs

Crag: Pic du Perthus, Esterel, France
Routes: La Directe (f6a+,f5c+:led p.1), Y'a Pas de Lezard (f6a:led), Gaston Rebiffe-Toi! p.1 (f5c:led), La Chevauchee des Vaches Qui Rient (F6a:sec), Plus Beau Que Moi Tu Meurs (f6a:led), Les Dents Longues (f6b:sec)
This is something of a fantasy crag for me. My third visit, and its advantages become more apparent with each trip: the grades are perfect (almost everything is in the f5c-f6b/HVS-E2 range), the rock is superb, the position and ambiance wonderful. It feels isolated and remote, yet it is only 35 minutes or so from the Col de Mistral, and only a few miles from the crowded coast (and the caravan!). High cloud as we approached, but nothing too threatening. As ever, we had the entire crag and valley to ourselves. As we geared up, Vic realised he'd left his rock shoes at Dramont yesterday! Nothing for it but to share mine, and lower them down to each other. I began ambitiously, leading the 6a+ opening pitch of La Directe. This goes easily to a steep, smooth bulge, which I initially took too far right and was forced to retreat (very brief rest). I then solved the problem, with a high reach for a little flake edge, before transferring feet onto a small foothold and going for a high jug above the bulge. Good climbing on pockets gained a belay ledge (and sunshine) before Vic led the sustained second pitch up a very steep crack right up the centre of the face. This led to a great move round an arete in a superb position to an easier finishing wall further left. A very good climb. We descended through appalling vegetation to the superlative west facing pillar at the extreme left of the face. This is taken by Y'a Pas de Lezard, which gives a stunning pitch of real quality. An easy wall leads to the main face, which gets progressively steeper and contains three distinct cruxes. It is never desperate or particularly technical, but is sustained at f6a throughout. Some superb pockets, characteristic of the crag, allow a steep crack to be gained. Brilliant climbing up this to a final move over a bulge: an outstanding 30m pitch. I then led the first long pitch of Gaston Rebiffe-toi, an old classic of the crag (just left of the Directe) with its crux low down: steep wall, small holds. This gains an easier but excellent pillar which curves round to the right to gain huge pockets and superb rock, and continues to traverse to the belay ledge. Vic followed up with a lead of La Chevauchee, much further right, which gave yet another excellent long pitch - perhaps 35m. It goes up a steep pillar to gain superb rough pockets before a hard crux move up a steep wall on very small holds. I went too far left up a lichen-covered groove and ended up making a hash of the crux - annoying as I'd done everything else so cleanly and quickly. The route kept coming above, with a superbly delicate and technical slab. A tremendously varied route, sustained at 6a through very different styles of climbing. We were tiring now, and almost called it a day. But I got a second wind, and we scrambled up to the smaller slab which sits above the descent gully. I've done all the routes here save one, so led that today. I was delighted to find that Plus Beau... gave yet another perfect pitch at 6a. Much more technical and slabby than the main face, but similar to the other routes on this slab. Bolts rather spaced, so it felt precarious as I balanced up small pockets to the first clip. Above this lay wonderful climbing up little pockets - the delicacy and precision welcome after a strenuous day. It started to rain as I began Les Dentes Longues (last climbed in 1994!), which gives another deliciously technical pitch on small pockets. A particularly hard start, which was rapidly getting wet, gives access to more pocketed pleasure. It poured down as we left, exactly as it did at this crag last year: perfect timing!

Cap Dramont climbs

Crag: Cap Dramont, Esterel, France
Routes: Le Factum du Recteur (f4a:led), Bento (f5b:sec), Jet Set Clafouti (f6a:sec), Pilier de Soleil (f5c+:led), Trois Zobs sur un Coup Fin (f6a+:sec), TGV (f5c:led), The Roux Petent Chaud (f6a:sec)
A 4am start from home meant we were rather sleep-deprived for the first day of our short Provencal climbing trip. Cool and cloudy as we walked to the crag in the early afternoon, indeed the forecast for the week was pretty awful. However, the sun started to peep through as we warmed up on two of the easy slab routes. Vic then led the long (30m) pitch of Jet Set Clafouti. This takes a steep but straightforward crack to a ledge, before a hard couple of moves on small crimps over a bulge gain the upper slab. This leads very pleasantly to the top: a fine route, climbed quickly and cleanly. It was now time for a key target of mine: Pilier de Soleil, the undisputed classic of the crag. This superb climb follows a line of good holds up the right hand side of an elegant pillar to some flakes. After a short easy slab, a traverse left gains the front of the pillar in a superb position ('between sea and sky') before the final wall, and crux, just below the top. A few steep moves up on small positive holds give a pulsating finish. I really wanted to do this Dramont classic in good style, and did so, romping up the route cleanly and quickly. Among the finest single pitches I've ever done: the grade bang on at 5c+. Trois Zobs takes a harder line up the face left of the pillar, starting up a steep crack on small, positive holds. After a ledge, the remainder of the route is sustained, strenuous and steep: another quality pitch. I moved up to the west face to lead TGV, which looks short and scrappy but is actually quite a good route (definitely overgraded) on sharp holds. However, a fierce cold wind blew straight into this face, along with some rain, and reduced us to shivering sleep-deprived wrecks. We weren't quite finished, though, and just bagged the strong line of the Roux Petant Chaud before heavier rain arrived. This takes the obvious slabby groove which forms the left edge of the pillar, and is again a very soft touch at 6a. Nice climbing up a little wall to a delicate slab which leads to an interesting wide groove/chimney. A great start to the trip (I have almost ticked the entire crag now), despite the weather and the lack of sleep.

Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Craig yr Wrysgan
Routes: White Streak (HS 4a,4a:led p.1), Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b:sec), Dorcon (HS 4b,4a,4b:led p.1,2), Y Gilfach (VD+:led)
A cold north wind blew this weekend, and there was limited time available (four hours in total), so a brief trip to the Moelwynion seemed a good idea. The crag stayed sunny and relatively windless all day, so the choice was quickly vindicated. The first pitch of White Streak was very pleasant: characteristic pocketed Moelwyn rock. Slightly wet in places after recent rain, but nothing remotely troubling. A little traverse left leads to a move on to the slab and a delicate but easy traverse across shallow cracks right to a stance in the triangular corner. I then followed Vic up the pleasant but short (and wet) top slab, followed by Honeysuckle Corner: a very obvious line. This is steep to start, but juggy throughout, and is an excellent pitch. A splendidly varied combination of pitches, good climbing. A fierce, cold wind on top, so we descended quickly through the incline and atmospheric tunnel and went for the obvious corner line of Dorcon. I led the first pitch up the big groove. This was wet inside the crack and an awkward thrutch in places, but a fine line. Steep moves allow an exit right to a ledge, and I continued up the next, more open pitch up a juggy rib in a nice position. Vic led the supposed crux, which was just one move to gain a steep crack before the route disappointingly peters out. Y Gilfach was a nice finale: a delightfully simple romp up the obvious corner on the right of the crag. A slab leads to a groove which is steep for the grade: excellent rock and big holds throughout.

Border League finale

Race: Deeside 4m+ (border league race 6)
Time/Position: 24:28 (20th from 246)
The timing of this race, the climax of the season, was hardly ideal: three days after the marathon. Worse still, I'd already missed a race earlier in the season and therefore had to put in a decent performance if I was to stay in the top 10. Given all this, I was genuinely surprised to feel fine throughout. In fact, I felt a lot more comfortable than I usually do in the league. Presumably, this was a result of deliberately holding back in London: I'd felt none of the usual soreness after the marathon. It was a flat but twisty course around Deeside on a warm evening, the same route as 2008, obviously fast-paced from the start. I began conservatively and was expecting to tire, but gradually gained places to almost match my best ever Borders finish. I actually moved up a place to finish 9th senior male overall (124pts), one month before I move into the Vets.

London Marathon

Race: London Marathon
Time: 3:10:48 (1941/36000)
Had no real aspirations for my fourth London marathon. I knew I hadn't trained properly for a pb, so decided to hold back, enjoy it, and use it as a building block for an all-out pb attempt in Chester next month. This is exactly what I did in Paris two years ago (prior to sub-3 at Edinburgh), and it makes for a hugely enjoyable experience. I had a whale of a time here: my 5k splits were virtually identical throughout, which was pleasing. I was able to relax and enjoy the fantastic atmosphere, which seemed better than ever this year, and was particularly memorable around Greenwich, Canary Wharf (missed the family here though!) and the last few miles. Felt very comfortable throughout, although I did have to visit the toilet at mile 10, which lost me 90 seconds! Recovered quickly after the race, and was able to do a 10k bike ride early next morning, trying to loosen the legs before Wednesday's inconveniently-timed Border League finale.

Pot Hole workout

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: The Dog (HVS 5b:TR), Canine Meander (E2 5b:TR), Right Wall (E2 5c:TR), Ceba (E1 5b:TR), Ego (E3 5c:TR), Vetta (E1 5a:TR), Major (HVS 5a:TR)
A valuable evening training session on some old favourites at Pot Hole, in preparation for our forthcoming Provencal cragging trip. All were enjoyable and straightforward with rope above. These bigger routes give the best climbing at Pot Hole, although some are very polished now. The Dog is still fun, but Canine Meander gives better climbing in my view, although eliminate in nature, on sharp crystals and crimpy pockets. Right Wall and Ceba went well, even tried to avoid the crack on Right Wall, while Ego's one very hard move towards the top remains thought-provoking. Vetta and Major are now both polished and awkward. Nice evening sunshine as we finished.

Craig Cywarch

Crag: Tap y Graig, Craig Cywarch
Routes: Will-o'-the-Wisp (VD:led p.2), Bluebell Babylon (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Mud Slide Slim (VS 4c:sec)
This venue has been a gap in my education for a long time. Although I had visited the valley for a hillwalk a few years ago, I'd never climbed on Cywarch. Vic had never been either, and we both found it very rewarding from a mountaineering perspective. It was a beautiful day, and the head of the valley is wonderfully isolated: a tranquil place to climb, very much my cup of tea. The walk-in is a delight, we treated it as training and got to the crag in less than 25 mins. We then romped the classic VDiff in less than an hour, doing it in two pitches rather than the usual six. Vic merged the scrambly first section, to the 'tea ledges', with the long traverse (a pleasant sun-drenched saunter in a nice position). I then led the arete which holds so much promise in the first few metres - huge holds and a fine position - but then peters out almost immediately. I continued past the tree to a finish over blocks and slabs. A quick descent down Little Gully, nice rock scenery, and back across for the classic VS of the crag, Bluebell Babylon. I merged the first two pitches to give a disjointed, slightly unusual pitch - up the scrambly start of WW to a steep crux wall. This is juggy and very short but out of character with the rest of the route. After pulling over this, a more delicate slab gains the belay in a wonderful position looking right down the valley. A red kite circled below, and a peregrine flew higher up. The sky was deep blue, no vapour trails and no aircraft noise (thanks to the Icelandic volcano). And no other climbers: just a great place to be. Vic merged the last two pitches, with some enjoyable climbing up a steepish wall on very good holds leading to a vegetated final tower. A nice route, varied, but low in the grade with no technical difficulty. No evidence of recent ascents, and no polish: instead you get interesting route-finding, lichen, heather, and a refreshing pioneering flavour. Another descent of Little Gully brought us to the foot of the other good VS: Mud Slide Slim. Another pleasant route, up a ramp to an interesting traverse below an overhang: good rock, good climbing, although a tad awkward for the second. This gains an easy blunt arete which leads up dirty rock to an overlap. Huge holds overcome this, before another steep crack above the WW belay gains the big tree. Had to excavate some of the holds on this, not something you would expect on most crags further north. It would have been nice to do another route, but the length of the drive meant we had to call it a day. Lovely ambience in the valley as we left the crags.

Clwydian runs

Felt exhausted on Tuesday during my last longish run before the marathon: 15 miles from HK up Waun y Llyn and back via the 10k road extension. But recovered with shorter sessions during the week and felt quite good for the regular Famau run in wonderful spring sunshine this evening.

Prestatyn border league

Race: Prestatyn 5.1m (border league race 6)
Time/Position: 30:08 (26th from 225)
My legs felt tired during the warm-up, and stayed that way throughout the race. I extended the Famau run to 12m on Friday evening in delightful balmy conditions and hadn't really had a chance to rest since then. Nice weather, with an easterly wind at our backs for the sprint along the seafront. The positions were more or less established after the first mile, although I picked up one or two places as we followed the loop inland then back round Splash Point. The return leg, into a surprisingly strong wind, was tough. I found myself alone and exposed to the wind, so worked really hard to catch two runners in front. This takes it out of you, although I did manage to pass one more runner before the end. A stronger field than in recent races, so I was a few places down again, although by default I've moved up to 10th senior male.

Castell Helen revisited

Crag: Castell Helen, Gogarth
Routes: Poseidon/Blanco (HVS 4c,5a:sec), Lighthouse Arete (VS 4a:led p.3), Pel (VS 4c:sec), Rap (VS 4c,4b:led p.2)
The most benign conditions imaginable for my second visit to this special place. I had unfinished business here from the previous trip last May, which was curtailed after one route by rain, wind and heavy seas. The weather was glorious today, as we enjoyed the atmospheric descent to the base of the crag: blue skies, no wind, warm rock, and a shimmering calm sea. Razorbills, guillemots and chough wheeled around as Vic led the easy first pitch of Poseidon/Blanco up a vague corner, then arete, above the belay niche. This led to a small stance below the overhanging corner. Big holds up this led to a move right in a stunning position to gain more steep, tricky climbing up a rather exposed wall to gain Lighthouse Arete. I led the easy final pitch of the arete to the top and a breather. We were then able to enjoy the rare treat of descending right down to the wave-cut platform below the crag. Tranquil scenes, low tide and a silvery sea, waves gently lapping the platform, seals popping up occasionally. Pel was splendid: probably the easiest but also best of the day. Starting from the base gave 20ft of extra climbing, up easy grooves via the belay niche to a tricky move right to gain a steeper corner/groove. This gave nice bridging on superb holds, excellent bleached-white rock, to the platform. The second pitch of Pel isn't worthwhile so we abbed down to the Rap ledge and Vic led the first pitch. Again, great stuff: similar to Pel, although steeper and more open. Big holds lead to a steep finish up the obvious corner with s surprisingly tricky crux near the top. I then led the second pitch up a little wall traversing left to a ledge and thread, then easily up to the big break. Above this, a nice shallow groove gave some pleasant moves to blocks and an easy finish.

Gentle Moelwyn climbing

Crag: Clogwyn yr Oen
Routes: Bent (S: led p.1,2), Slick (VD: led p.3,4), Chic (VD: led p.1,2,3)
Spring conditions at last, accompanied by non-climbing Rich, so some relaxed scrambles in the Moelwyns seemed in order. Lots of instructors had the same idea, and Bent was about the only free route! This is a delightful gentle slab, warmed by the sun, and I merged two pitches to give a lovely long romp up to a tree belay. We were again faced with a traffic jam, so I led straight up the left side of the Slick flake: followed by another delightful easy slab. Finished up the final steeper crack pitch of Slick (I remembered soloing Slick in the distant past, nice route). After lunch, ambled up the initial rib of Chic, then led the nice second pitch up a steep crack to a juggy traverse followed by a slab. A queue at the stance, but in the warm sunshine it hardly mattered. The final pitch is a wide r-leaning crack followed by yet more gentle slabby climbing to the top. We could have continued indefinitely in this vein, but Rich fancied a pint so we retired to Betws.

Long run, Eglwyseg bouldering

A family trip to the Graffiti Walls above Llangollen. Not technical enough to be real bouldering, more like miniature routes at 4b-5b. Good fun, especially when combined with picnic and walk up Dinas Bran. Did all of the problems apart from one, including The Flake and Left Crack, all on excellent rough sandstone. Nice way to warm down after a long run yesterday, a necessary addition before the forthcoming marathons and other longer events. Went reasonably well, from HK to Handbridge and down the half marathon route to Pulford, then Rossett and a circuitous route home via LK. Close to 20m, so at least I've got four long ones in. Not ideal, but it will have to do.

Salford 10k

Race: Salford 10k
Time/Position: 35:25 (44th from 569)
Having deliberately focused on reducing my 10k pb this year, it was pleasing to take such a big chunk off it before switching to the hills for summer. I'd expected to dip under 36m for the first time on this notoriously fast, flat course, but didn't expect to take 37 secs off my Twin Piers time. Bit of a scrum at the start, but managed to negotiate it and started off faster than usual. Kept pushing for both laps (went through 5k in 17:42, an exact split), and was able to get in small groups to counteract a stiff breeze. A highly competitive and well organised race, with a very strong field drawn from a big geographical area. Did the full run up Moel Famau to warm down in the evening: snow, slush and sunshine. Felt OK in the circumstances, and it was a nice contrast with the less-than-scenic 10k!

Llangynhafal Loop

Race: Llangynhafal Loop fell race (4.75m/1750ft)
Time/Position: 46:07 (12th from 108)
The last (and only) time I turned out for this race was in 2007, when it formed part of the British championships and therefore attracted an elite field. The course has changed since then to become considerably harder, with a very nasty sting in the tail. It starts very quickly, along the contouring path south to Nant y Ne. It then climbs the valley to the screes of Stoney Gully, the undisputed king of Clwydian climbs! Always a desperate slog, and I certainly felt yesterday's outing in my legs as I laboured up the scree to the top of Famau. From here, great sunny running along the ridge leads over Moel Dywyll to the fast descent down to the valley above the village. The final climb heads back up brutally steep heathery slopes to the top of the western spur of Dywyll. I was gaining some ground here, but infuriatingly took the wrong path as I started the final descent. I realised the error quickly, and didn't lose any places, but completely blew the chance to catch up with the group of 3 runners in front on the superb grassy downhill sprint to the finish. Average performance, if that, but a very fine event with the usual nice atmosphere.

More Tremadog climbs

Crag: Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Christmas Curry (S:led p.1,2), Micah Eliminate (HS 4b:sec), Rienetta (HS:led), Merlin (VS 4b,4a:sec), Kestrel Cracks (HVS 4c,5a:sec)
One month since my last visit - and this was another classic Tremadog day, in that we dodged virtually all the showers passing over the mountains. It didn't look that way as I merged the first two pitches of Christmas Curry in drizzle which turned to rain at the stance. This was one of the first long routes I ever did, 20 years ago! Nice easy climbing up a broad chimney leads to lovely positive cracks diagonally left to a stance. The rain miraculously stopped as Vic led the Micah Eliminate in full, another long pitch which makes it into a completely different route. Good climbing up a steep crack to immaculate pocketed rock and a traverse right to the arete in a superb position. We took a while to decide on the next route, with some uncharacteristic faffing, mainly because much of the crag was wet. I eventually led up the easy but dry slabs of Rienetta to the Merlin crack, and followed Vic up the layback, traverse and chimney of Merlin p.2/3 (which I've also done before, during a Liverpool University trip in 1993). Delightful sunbathing at the stance, gazing out at showers passing over the Rhinogs and the sea! After this, I led the first pitch of Kestrel Cracks. This is a very steep, very deep crack line. Ultra-safe and juggy, but pretty strenuous in places too. Awkward moves gain a spike and a rest, before enjoyable climbing on excellent holds lead to the final move up a steep wide crack. This was seeping, very wet, so I prudently retreated. Vic had a go and led through, despite the wet it was actually easily solved by traditional back-and-footing! The top pitch has an awkward start up a steep slanting 5a crack, followed by an easier crack to the top. Hard route to grade: at the border of VS and HVS.

Long hilly run

An early morning 20-miler, over the shoulder of Waun y Llyn to Pontybodkin and Treuddyn. Then the enjoyable descent down to Llanfynydd and the brutal climb back over Waun y Llyn. Extended this favourite circuit a bit this time, adding a mile or two on to the end. Felt surprisingly comfortable.

Ras yr Aran

Race: Ras yr Aran/Aran fell race (10.5m/2500ft)
Peaks: Aran Fawddwy
Time/Position: 1:51:17 (13th from 87)
Great to get back on a proper full-on fell race, after all the short road races over winter. I was worried this would be shortened, as it was when I last did it in 2008. But in the event the weather wasn't too bad - just light drizzle, low cloud and windy on the ridge. I deliberately took it nice and easy throughout, as I knew I didn't really have it in my legs after spending several months trying to improve my road speed. As a result, I found the race hugely enjoyable. Trotted up from Llanuwchllyn to the first check on Moel Ffenigl, then into the mist at the steep haul up Benllyn, before enjoying great, wild running along the lengthy ridge to Aran Fawddwy. Some big snowdrifts and rocky sections keep this section interesting, although nav remains simple throughout. I made up some ground on a group of runners in front, although Jez and Simon remained some way ahead, and I kept my place reasonably well on the descent - which was right into the teeth of the wind with Llyn Tegid below as we emerged from the mist. Lovely to be able to enjoy a race for once, rather than being on the limit the whole time!

Waun y Llyn ride and rock

Tried to get an intense intervals session (last night) out of my legs with a bike ride to the top of Waun y Llyn. Whilst there, I had a bit of a bouldering session, with the rock very dry and climbable. These are only tiny problems, and this kind of thing is not really my bag, but I enjoyed the easier V0 outings like The Crack, Lower Groove, Lower Crack and the like. Got quite close to nailing the harder V3 problems, but my time ran out and I still can't imagine taking to this discipline. Around 15 mins from summit to house flat out on the bike.

Bryn Alyn rock and run

Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: Grizzly (VS 4c:sh), The Watzmann (VS 4c:sh), Selva variant (VS 4c:sh)
The winter conditions in Snowdonia seem to be on their way out now, although I suppose there is always the chance of a late freeze. It's been a remarkable three months: beginning (I like to think) with the heavy snow flurry as we descended from Aran Benllyn on December 17, and ending last week with me sunbathing on the Gribin after the wonderful morning in Cwm Cneifion (21 routes and 10 trips later!). A sharp contrast today: I took a short break from hours in front of the computer with a trip to Llanferres. Roadworks meant a detour to the crag, wading thigh-deep through the Alyn at one point! Intermittant drizzle, so just had a half hour climbing session trying to build finger strength by avoiding the big holds as I shunted these routes - a tactic that was only partially successful. A big Mancunian youth group arrived, effectively forcing me to leave immediately for a run up 'the Beast' to Bryn Alyn, then along the race route to the Eryrys road and back via Big Covert.

Mold border league

Race: Mold 5.2m (border league race 5)
Time/Position: 30:14 (24th from 217)
Felt uncomfortable throughout this race, struggling to maintain a decent pace almost from the start. Woke up with a slightly wheezy chest, which might have been the reason, and also started a bit too fast up the long hill to Nercwys (where I usually gain a few places). Kept it going quite well later on though, and nearly caught a group of 4 or 5 runners on the final 'false flat' mile. Reasonably pleased with my finishing position, although five places down on race three.

Long run

Way behind with the long runs, particularly with two marathons and several big events on the horizon. So it was good to get this 20 miler in with Neil after work. I was slightly tired after the last few days, but it went reasonably well. From HK up to Hawarden, then down to the blue bridge at Queensferry. Then the psychologically devastating leg along the Dee all the way to Handbridge, and back via Saltney and Bretton: 2.5 hours.

Cwm Cneifion snow gullies

Crag: Cwm Cneifion
Routes: Nameless Gully (wII:sol), Easy Route (wI:des), Hidden Gully (wII:sol), Corner Gully (wI/II:des), Pinnacle Gully (wI:sol)
This amazing winter just keeps on coming, day after day of superb conditions and memorable outings. This was - perforce - another brief solo morning, so slightly frustrating in terms of feasible options. That said, the neve and weather is now so utterly perfect that easy snow gullies make a lot of sense. Sick of heavy boots by now, so skipped up to Cneifion in my fell running shoes, carrying the boots. Worked well, as I arrived in the cwm proper just after 8am after 40 minutes of minimal effort. Had the place to myself, as I slogged up to the Nameless face at the top of the cwm. Selected Nameless Gully as one of the few routes I haven't done up here. Although hardly a classic line, this gave wonderful easy climbing on seemingly untouched snow. Sheer enjoyment, with ultra-secure placements on ultra-solid neve, leading to a narrowing and steepening between rock walls and a steepish finish, skirting the cornice to sudden sunshine as I emerged on the Glyder plateau to crystal-clear views in every direction. I then descended Easy Route, steep at the top, before traversing in to Hidden Gully. I last did this in 1993: it is an absolute gem, if a little short. Very popular, so inevitably marred by bucket steps all the way, but it is such a delightful place that it hardly matters. The walls close in as the gully steepens, with sunshine for the last few moves. It was still only 9am, so I had breakfast on the plateau before descending Corner Gully for a change. This was absorbing and enjoyable, and led back down to the base of the cwm. I needed to get home early, and was saving energy for a planned 20 mile run tomorrow, but couldn't resist one more gully so nipped up Pinnacle Gully at the base of the cwm - below the arete. The neve was good even here, although the route is just a walk up to a constriction between two high walls. From here, the gully fans out and I took the steepest exit just to the right which gave more highly enjoyable climbing, mixed in places as I weaved around seeking options to extend the action. I emerged at the bottom of the Gribin and sunbathed for a while before descending to the car. Later discovered I'd been wearing my pyjamas all morning, under my thermals, such was my haste to leave HK at 6am!

Farndon 10k

Race: Farndon 10k
Time/Position: 36:13 (7th from 477)
Just a little too 'undulating' and twisty to allow me to dip under 36m, but a flatteringly high finishing position was some compensation. Not generally considered to be a PB course, so reasonably pleased to get so close. A lovely rural borderland course, with beautiful cold, sunny and still weather throughout. My first time in this race: I felt I kept the pace going quite well during the hilly sections around half way, and finished quite strongly. Kate enjoyed herself too. Finished 2nd V35, but no prize!

Dash in the Dark fell race

Race: Llandegla Dash in the Dark race 3 (4m/750ft)
Time/Position: 29:30 (2nd from 20)
Deja vu here, in that I started off in the lead, just as I did on the second race a fortnight ago. However, within a few hundred metres the young winner of race two sped past me and went on to win comfortably. Some icy patches slowed the descents through the forest, and the lakeside path was rather boggy. But this time I took the new variant through the reeds and heather, within inches of the water, which added a minute to my finishing time. Another difference was that this time I was pushed all the way by Paul S, but pulled away slightly on the final climb to finish second again. Also picked up a prize for second place overall in the series. As ever, a really enjoyable event.

Crib Goch winter traverse

Peaks: Crib Goch
Routes: Crib Goch Traverse (wI/II:sol), East Ridge (wI:sol)
The classic winter traverse in perfect Alpine conditions on St David's Day. Good as that sounds, it wasn't really the game plan for the morning - my sights were set on the Trinities. But after slogging up the Miner's Track from Pen y Pass in stunning conditions of shifting mist and sunburst, it was clear that the snow was too soft and unconsolidated for comfort. I had a look at the gullies anyway, since I'd made the effort. New snow made the going slow as I laboured up the slopes to the Spider, then continued some way into the narrower Left-Hand Trinity (having done Central some years ago) before concluding that there was too much new, drifting snow and descending back to the Pyg track. Crib Goch had looked stunning all morning, unlike the mist-shrouded main peak, and the means of salvaging something from the morning soon presented itself! I left the path, then picked an intricate route to Bwlch Coch up steepish slopes of perfect untouched neve under a deep blue sky: excellent. After emerging at the Bwlch, I climbed the final pinnacle thus getting straight into the trickiest part of the traverse, the exposed ledge. More awkward this way round: it was fully iced-up and therefore interesting. The remaining pinnacles gave entertaining mixed climbing before I gained the ridge: stunning full winter conditions of deep virgin snow on old neve, no footprints, the entire ridge to myself. In other words, a very rare treat and half an hour to savour. After breakfast alone on the sunny summit, watching the mist peel away from an entirely white Carnedd Ugain and dark clouds rolling over Siabod (but me getting sunburned) I descended the East Ridge as the snow softened. Some awkward steps with crampons balling up. I last did the winter traverse, in full conditions, in 1995 - but I don't remember much sunshine. This was therefore a tasty bonus morsel in a winter full of treats.

Tremadog climbs

Crag: Craig Pant Ifan/Craig Bwlch y Moch
Routes: Scratch (VS 4b,4b:led p.1), Shadrach (VS 4c,4b,4c:led p.2), Grim Wall (VS 4b,4c:led p.1)
First time on rock since September and, as such, quite good going - particularly as it was raining heavily when I left home. To knock off three classic routes in a February afternoon was satisfying: an unexpectedly good day and a real bonus (particularly given that I actually wanted to climb snow gullies on Clogwyn y Garnedd)! We started on Pant Ifan, where I led up the scrappy and wet initial slabs of Scratch to a short crack before a delightful slabby traverse to the belay. Inevitably, technique/footwork was rusty after this cold winter as I followed Vic up the layback crack in light drizzle, before another traverse across the slabs gains an easy jamming crack to finish. Good varied route. After a snack at the car, we moved across to Bwlch y Moch and did The Brothers start to Shadrach: a polished off-width. I then led an easy but lovely second pitch, Shadrach proper, up the slab on sharp holds (in warm sunshine!) before following Vic up the short crux step off the big flake to a nice direct finish. Grim Wall was then irresistable. I'm pretty sure I've done this before - I definitely remembered the first pitch, a romp across a series of juggy flakes. The top pitch is superb, absorbing, quite intricate and unexpected, easily the best climbing of the day. A little mantel gains good holds and a traverse left to a groove. Then splendid steep moves on big flakey holds straight up the rib. A classic Tremadog day, with all of Snowdonia in drizzly/snowy clag except this micro-climatic coastal strip.

Dash in the Dark fell race

Race: Llandegla Dash in the Dark race 2 (4m/750ft)
Time/Position: 28:35 (2nd from 25)
Found myself leading this race after the first few zig-zags. A novel experience, to say the least, but particularly so given the wonderful conditions of soft snow and (obviously) complete darkness. A young lad stayed with me, and we pulled away on the long climb to the Black Grouse hide. I gained a few more metres on him during the descent, but he finally pulled past me as we raced along the flat wall at the end of the lake. My fourth running of this race, always great fun, and I followed the route I'd always done: wrongly, as it turned out, because I missed a 200m long new section at the far end of the lake (as did the leader, whose light I was following). I admitted my error as soon as I found out (after talking to others) but was let off as I was nearly 5 minutes ahead of third place, and the whole event is very relaxed and informal.

Sandstone Trail run

The timing of this was not ideal, but I felt the need for a longer hilly outing before next Sunday's half marathon. Since doing the 17m Sandstone race a few years ago I've been intending to run the rest of the trail - but have only done small sections. Today I started in Frodsham itself and gave myself an hour to get as far as I could, before turning back. A steep climb leads from the town up to Beacon Hill (good views of the snow covered Pennines and Clwydians) before a very pleasant rocky path heads SW along the crags to Woodhouses Hill then south below Alvanley cliff. Boggy going in places: I fell at one point, emerging with just a few cuts. The route then heads south through Manley (where the Helsby half emerges) before entering Delamere Forest. I emerged at Barnes Bridge after 55 minutes: that is, the finishing point of the race. The return run was hard going at times, with heavy hail showers.

Cwm Clyd

Crag: Cwm Clyd
Routes: B Gully (wI/II:sol), A Gully (wI:des), C Gully (wII:sol)
Peaks: Y Garn
Area: Glyderau
Even by recent standards, this was a frenetic pre-breakfast outing up and down three gullies in less than 90 minutes before the weather closed in. Remarkably, this was my first visit to Cwm Clyd for 19 years. In January 1991 Tim and I climbed Banana Gully as our first ever winter route then got lost on Glyder Fawr through careless navigation, descending into Nant Peris: a classic youthful error! Although I've done the ridges many times, winter and summer, I'd never been up the other gullies. It's a lovely little cwm (good choice for a solo day), easily reached by a steep slog from Ogwen, and the weather wasn't as bad as I'd expected as I started up the snow slopes at the back of the cwm. The snowline is very high now, 750m, and it felt mild today. That said, conditions were still good, fresh snow on solid neve, as I left the uniform slope of A gully to enter B gully. An early chockstone was easily turned on good solid snow and turf to the right, before lovely cramponing up gentle slopes led to a slight steepening near the top. Shallow but well defined: a nice route. The mountaineering flavour meant a visit to the summit seemed appropriate, before locating A gully (not easy in thick mist) and enjoyably descending its gentle slopes to the mouth of C gully. This is deeper than the others, twisting and atmospheric, though even gentler than B for most of its length. It twists right and contains a bit of ice and a few chockstones before emerging on gentle snow slopes. I was pushed for time, so downclimbed it rather than topping out, so I could jog down from Cwm Clyd back to Ogwen by 10.30am. Quite heavy snow as I descended (and rain lower down).

Abergele border league

Race: Abergele 5 miles (border league race 4)
Time/Position: 28:39 (19th from 233)
Good conditions and route for fast times (calm, cold, flat). Still, this was an encouraging performance which gave me both a 5 mile PB and my first ever top 20 finish in the league (after 23 or so BL races!). Started off quite fast, nice running along the seafront towards Old Colwyn, then picked up some places on the little hill through the caravan park and finished reasonably strongly. Only my second outing in the league this season.

Cwm Caseg

Crag: Cwm Ffynnon Caseg
Routes: Col Route (wI:sol), Elen Gully (wI/II:sol)
Peaks: Yr Elen
Area: Carneddau
I've been looking for an excuse to visit Ffynnon Caseg for many years - arguably the remotest lake in north Wales, and one of the most isolated cwms. Exploring the gentle snow gullies is really the only thing you can do up here, so the prevailing conditions of perfect neve above 700m made it the obvious choice, particularly as this was a solo day. Prospects were very bleak as I walked through Ciltwllan above Bethesda in the murky pre-dawn drizzle. A sharp snow shower, the clag right down, made for a dark, dank start up the boggy lower cwm (last visited as I struggled through the brutal final leg of the Carneddau fell race over Gyrn Wigau a few years ago). The walk-in is about as long as it gets in Wales, but genuinely atmospheric, particularly alone. The valley twists to the south, then climbs to a hidden valley below Cwm Bychan before a final rise to the fabulous Cwm Ffynnon Caseg. After a snow-free valley, the cwm was (as I'd hoped/predicted) a bowl of iron-hard neve, the lake frozen solid. An obvious snow-holding area, 750m up and north-facing. The clag was right down, making it hard to identify potential routes upwards, so I took a bearing from lake to bwlch and went for the conservative option of Col Route. Just a gentle snow slope, which felt quite Alpine in the conditions (partly because I couldn't see the top) and curves to the right above a small buttress. I moved into a shallow gully next to the steeper buttresses and emerged on the nice ridge path to the top of Yr Elen. An enjoyable mountaineering-style ascent, so I continued in the same vein, navigating down to the NE ridge in thick mist. This ridge is Alpine in tone for about 50m(!) before almost immediately petering out into scree slopes. At the bottom, I traversed left into another gully line which I took to be Elen Gully (but which could have been anything: descriptions are fairly meaningless and redundant here, it's just a place to enjoy the scenery and atmosphere). This gave an enjoyable sprint upwards on perfect neve, through a narrowing before emerging near the summit. Back down to some flat boulders above the lake for a wonderful scenic solo breakfast - unsurprisingly, saw nobody all morning. Long walk out, but back in Bethesda before 11.30.

Nick Beer 10k

Race: Nick Beer 10k (Llandudno)
Time/position: 37:37 (19th from 540)
A gentle easterly breeze was a help for the climb around Marine Drive, which goes on for almost 5k. Hazy sunshine for this most scenic of road races, with wonderful views down the cliffs to the sea, but a distinctly average performance from me. I went quite well on the climb (19:20 at 5k), then started to pick up a few places as we entered the West Shore, but again my lack of a sprint finish cost me: four runners went past in the final 200m. Possibly slightly tired: did the Famau run on Friday night, and two speed sessions last week. Still, a nice trip and a well organised race. I was 12 minutes quicker than the last time I did it in 2002, when M was a few weeks old and I was somewhat sleep deprived! Out of the prizes this time: 5th v35.

Cwm Cneifion winter climbs

Crag: Clogwyn Du/Cwm Cneifion
Routes: Clogwyn Y Gully Righthand (wIII 3,3:led p.1), Tower Slabs (wII/III 2/3:led), Easy Route (wI:descent)
Peaks: Glyder Fawr
Area: Glyderau
An obvious choice of venue, given the recent weather pattern of freeze-thaw cycles which inevitably strip everything below 700m while solidifying north-facing cwms higher up. After a cold night, we hit upon perfect conditions here today after the steep walk-in. Iron-hard neve combined with a reasonable ice build-up to give superb conditions on the easier routes. A pseudo-Alpine feel to proceedings - crisp blue skies above - as I led the easy first pitch of Clogwyn Righthand, which traverses right to gain a shallow gully of excellent neve with interesting short sections of steeper ice. Vic then led a huge second pitch which proved the wisdom of the route choice - it was in near-perfect nick. Good solid ice leads to the narrow and atmospheric gully proper. Up this on iron hard snow and frozen turf, straitforward but superb climbing, to steeper moves out right to shallower slopes and a final few metres of good water ice over a constriction in the gully to the belay. I led a short, simple final pitch to finish: a great route on the day, really enjoyable. We moved up to the sun-drenched plateau of Glyder Fawr for fine views and a snack, before an absorbing and enjoyable descent of Easy Route on more good neve. I've been up and down this mountaineering route several times before (in fact, according to my records I did 5 long winter routes in one day in Cwm Cneifion in 1993: must have been fitter then!). After more food, we moved across to the other side of the cwm where I led Tower Slabs in one big pitch. Chose to focus on the central section, which seemed most continuous, with good snow leading to a few metres of water ice before quickly easing back to gentle slabby climbing. We descended slopes further right before the long walk back to Ogwen, during which it clouded over with a sharp snow flurry covering the lower slopes. A good day, topped off by lobster risotto in the evening!

Beyond Hope

A much needed long hilly training run, from HK over the shoulder of Hope Mountain to Pontybodkin and the long climb up to Treuddyn. Then up to the highpoint of the run at Cae Hic, before the lengthy descent to Llanfynydd. This is the third time I've done this 18-20 miler, and the final killer climb back over the top of Waun y Llyn doesn't get any easier!

Twin Piers 10k

Race: Twin Piers 10k (Llandudno-Colwyn Bay)
Time/Position: 36:02 (11th from 372)
Nice to be back racing again after all the recent weather-related cancellations. As such, this was an encouraging performance given the lack of meaningful speedwork. It must be the best 10k in the region - nice atmosphere and a satisfying point-to-point seaside course. I did it in 43 mins four years ago! Conditions today were good: coldish, with no wind (although a tail wind would have been nice). Annoyingly, my stopwatch failed immediately, therefore I had no idea of my time throughout the race. This was a problem, as sub 36 was my target. I just had to run hard throughout, try to keep Jez and Neil in sight, and hope for the best - although the field spread out quickly. The sharp hill over the Little Orme was a help, injecting a bit of variety, and I kept it going quite well through Rhos, picking up a few places. I only saw the time when I glimpsed the finish line clock in the final 200m, realised I was close to my target, and pelted to the line. The clock read 35:59 as I went through, but the time was recorded as just over, and I just missed a top 10 finish. I did have the consolation of 3rd v35 though.

Crowded Idwal ice

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Route: The Ramp (wII/III 2,3,1: led in 2 p's)
An opportunistic and very brief visit before the forecast thaw sets in. Sadly, the day was marred by (without wishing to be rude) two incompetent buffoons who spent a ridiculous amount of time on this very simple route and thereby prevented us from doing anything else that day. Rather vexing, given that this is likely to be the last opportunity for a while, as the thaw sets in. Alwyn and I slogged up to the crags in very deep snow and thick mist: Idwal now just a bowl of white, the lake almost invisible. Dismayed to find three pairs queuing for The Ramp, particularly as we didn't even get there until early afternoon! As a rule, I refuse to queue for routes, but conditions were so perfect that we made an exception: also, crowds are inevitable whenever you go to Idwal in these conditions. The first pitch, when it came, was longer and more interesting than I'd expected: a couple of little icy pitches breaking up the uniform easy shallow gully. The stance was crowded but rather enchanting. A fully formed grotto of blue ice - a little rock cave almost entirely enclosed by enormous 2m-wide grounded blue icicles, with soft snowflakes falling outside. After another wait, I led the second pitch - the first 10 metres of which constitutes the only real climbing on the entire route, but even this is very simple, just a few fun moves on excellent ice to more good, easy-angled ice. It then curves round to a big block on the right, after which I just ran out the full 60m on easy snow to a belay. By now it was 4pm and too late to do Central Route, which I'd planned, so we just descended to the car.

North face of Bryn Alyn!

A wacky attempt to work out a novelty winter mountaineering route in the Clwydians. The remarkable conditions provoked me, but it is clearly an impossible task: the steepest 'face' in the range is probably the northern slope of Bryn Alyn, and that is sufficiently steep for all of 60 metres or so. From the Burley Hill bridleway I ploughed up an obvious shallow 'gully' to the terrace traversed by the normal flanking footpath (the only landmark hereabouts is a little pinnacle on the crags just left of where this 'gully' emerges). Then steeply up very deep snow to gain a shelf leading left to a tiny vague gully with a tree at the top. I squeezed behind this to a miniature ridge which led to the top. Exhausting waist-deep drifts led across the plateau to the normal flanking path. A ridiculous outing.

Clwydian run

After an unsuccessful sledging trip, I took the opportunity to run from Llanferres over Foel Fenlli to Penbarras, then up to Moel Famau. Thick drifts made Fenlli a bit of a struggle in both directions, but superb and highly unusual views compensated. The return over Fenlli was particularly memorable: a setting sun, waist/chest deep drifts, the snow lit pink. Even some potential avalanche risk in places: obvious windslab forming a bergshrund on the western slopes of Moel Eithinen! Fantastic snowy running all week - well over 40 miles, but all of them slow! Through ice-draped woods in Eccleston yesterday evening, for example, ice floes on the Dee.

Waun y Llyn run

A hugely enjoyable run from the house to the top of Waun y Llyn through a landscape utterly transformed by the snow. A regular run of mine, made memorable by the conditions. The lanes were all hard snow-pack, very icy but runnable in fell shoes, then steeply up to the summit as the sun set. Never thought I would experience alpenglow on Hope Mountain, but I did today. Then along the ridge, the drifting snow lit orange by the setting sun, to an icy and dark descent back to HK. Running my regular 10k circuit at the height of the snowstorm on Tuesday evening was equally memorable!

Idwal ice

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Routes: Idwal Stream (wII/III 3,3,2: led p.1,3), Introductory Gully (wII: led p.2)
A glorious contrast to the last few outings in that I finally got superb conditions, as this fantastic cold snap continues. A dreamlike early start in the dark with the moon directly above the summit of Y Garn. Idwal a bowl of ice and snow - thick cover throughout, the lake frozen solid, all beautiful shades of blue and white with little rock visible. We made our way up to the Idwal Stream which was a predictable choice as the ultimate easy winter trade route, but in such perfect nick today that we had to do it. I led up good thick water ice to perfect neve and a stance, before following Alwyn up an even better pitch up a steeper wall on wonderful snow-ice. We picked the most direct, steepest line throughout - around Grade III but never remotely difficult or serious, just short steps, and I continued direct over a little bulge to a stance surrounded by rimed rocks, blue ice and thick snow. We moved together for the rest of the route, which is very gentle, until emerging on the Llyn y Cwn plateau for breakfast. An easy descent in thick, often drifting snow, took us past the Devil's Kitchen to the Ramp, which we wanted to do. However, the place was swarming with climbers and queues had built up, so we continued down to Introductory Gully - which is low down and rarely in any kind of condition. Another easy route, but worthwhile. Followed Alwyn up the first pitch - thin initially - to better neve and a belay. I then led the second on firmer neve. An awkward, very tiring climb through chest-deep drifts allowed us to traverse below the upper cliff to gain an easy descent. Back by lunchtime.