Monday, July 13, 2026

Galibier-Telegraph ride

It had to be the Galibier today. I did it in 2011, but from the shorter, easier side. One of my main objectives this trip was to do it in full from Valloire, or perhaps from the lower valley. In the end I went for a compromise, partly because my van camp was on top of the Col de Telegraph to escape the heat. After a quick breakfast, I warmed up with the easy descent from the Telegraph to Valloire and then got to work on the long climb up the Galibier. This is steep out of the village itself, an epicentre of global cycling, but then the angle eases for the distinctive first section along the valley of the Valloirette river. I was feeling reasonably good and greatly enjoying the new scenery unfolding, particularly the Arves massif to the right, which you can't properly see but which started giving me ideas for tomorrow! Ahead the road just drags up, mostly fairly straight but with the looming headwall gradually giving an indication of what is in store. Then Plan Lachat is reached and the alpine meadows suddenly give way to a right turn and vicious kick upwards as the angle and character of the climb changes completely. From here, the Grand Galibier blocks the valley and the road heads up a series of hairpins while the col becomes visible high on the right for the first time. I was still feeling quite good, and loving the TdF ambience as ever, with each kilometre marked. Above, a statue of Pantani and wonderful high mountain views all around (some of the peaks are very accessible from here). At the top of the hairpins the route kinks left and embarks on a very long but fairly gentle uphill drag below Le Rabel, on which I felt good although it was beginning to get quite hot. I passed a few people on the final hairpins and had a quick chat with a chap from Dorset as we reached the refuge below the summit. At this point, one kilometre from the top, route barree! A sense of disbelief among the cyclists, of which there is a constant stream. There was nothing for it but to enact 'plan b' - through the tunnel (cyclists banned) to do the last bit from the Lauteret side I'd done all those years ago. We waited for the green light, then 'allez' through the 300m tunnel and into the incredible scenery and bright sunshine on the other side (which in many ways is more spectacular despite being shorter and easier). I did the last km with the Dorset rider and we took photos on the col, a shrine of cycling and a mythical spot. It was misty when I was here in 2011. Then it was down and back through the tunnel before the long but restful descent to Valloire (going around half the speed of Pidcock's famous descent). I had an energy bar then felt great for the reascent to the Col du Telegraph, deciding there and then not to stop at the van but to descent all the way to St Maurice du Maurienne. I had a panini and drink and then embarked on the full climb up the Telegraph, now at low altitude and in the full midday sunshine. This quickly became fairly desperate and I really struggled. The surface is not great initially, it is quite busy and also quite steep and despite its reputation as the Galibier's barely relevant little brother it really hit me hard. After about 5k I was resting after every mile or so and ran out of water fairly quickly. Still, a memorable day: over 70k and 2250m or so of elevation.

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