Rhuddlan 16

Yesterday's disastrous outing combined with my recent achilles issue and my Peruvian trip has all rendered Marathon Eryri at the end of October an increasingly unlikely objective. I decided that today was the last chance to start training, albeit it is already too late to start properly. I set a minimum target of 15 miles, and would 'run to feel' having abandoned last Tuesday. I set off from Rhuddlan under cloudy skies and within the first mile realised I was back to something approaching normal, and my HR confirmed this. I kept the pace slow, however, and was also troubled by my achilles again (brought on by yesterday's fell shoe outing I suspect). But the heel improved as I climbed gently up to Meliden, fortunately. Through Prestatyn to the Nova Centre and then the long but enjoyable haul along the familiar territory of the prom all the way to Kinmel Bay. The forecast rain started in earnest here, along with a stiff breeze, so I doubled back seeking the shelter of West Rhyl back to Rhuddlan.

Henley Wood parkrun

'Race': Henley Wood (Oswestry) parkrun

Time/Position: 20.26 (3rd from 111)

My Garmin has been warning me all week with its metrics suggesting some kind of health issue. I feel fine, but had to abandon a planned long run on Tuesday and have concluded that it's not an infection, but a hangover from the somewhat ridiculously packed Peruvian schedule. Whatever the reason, I felt dreadful this morning on this route, which is flat but entirely off-road and twisty for two large laps in the woods near the Oswestry A5. I wore an ancient pair of fell running shoes, which didn't help matters, and started off fairly quickly to the point that I led briefly. But I knew pretty quickly that all was not well, and almost stopped before the second lap started. Possibly my slowest ever parkrun, certainly my worst ever 'performance', although - as ever - it's not a race! First age graded, for what its worth.

Castle Inn climbing

Crag: Castle Inn

Routes: Route 1 (f5:sec), Route 2 (f6a:sec), Milf Crack (f5:sec)

Having done only a handful of routes in the last couple of years, I remained passenger today on three routes that I have done many, many times in the past. Indeed, Route 1 is the climb I've done most often, and one which must have a claim to being the most frequently climbed route in North Wales, becoming quite polished now. I actually felt reasonably good, and did feel something of the old stirring when touching rock. More importantly, a very pleasant social morning (for a change) with Peter and Bart.

Vilcanota peaks

Peaks: Vinicunca (5039m/16,532ft), Hatun Ritiyop (5069m/16,631ft)

Area: Vilcanota Range, Andes, Peru

Despite climbing many Alpine peaks, and visiting the Himalaya and numerous other high mountain ranges worldwide over nearly 40 years, I am fairly sure I've never been over 5000m before so this was an interesting test, quite apart from being a spectacular day out. Vinicunca has become a major tourist attraction in recent years, as global warming has revealed its extraordinary geology (inevitably dubbed 'rainbow mountain' by the hordes of global travellers that want their picture taken in front of it). As such, it didn't hold much appeal for crowd-hating me, but it was also the only feasible opportunity for a day in the mountains given my very tight schedule in Peru. I also got it for free, so could hardly choose another option after arrival in magical Cusco. After a 3am start, and breakfast in Cusipata, we headed up a long gravel track to the roadhead, already really high. On Sunday, I had already broken my personal altitude record en route back to Arequipa from Chivay, when the van stopped at the 4910m Mirador de los Andes, a stunning place with views of seven volcanoes, one of which supposedly holds the source of the Amazon. I was breathless then, but since then had acclimatised further with visits to Puno, Titicaca and Cusco itself - in fact I had 'lived' at 3300m or higher for a few days by the time we set off. As a result, I felt OK and most of the route is just an easy stroll up an inclining path: exceptional views over the valley to the left up to Wasaqucha, Nevado del Inca, Takusiri and other glaciated peaks, a giant wall of rock and ice from this angle. Most of the tourists had no interest in those views, as they struggled (many on horseback) up to see the view they wanted for their social media posts. I suspended my cynicism though, as it's not as if I usually have to do things like this, and once I arrived above a steeper section at the obvious col below 'rainbow mountain' it is undeniably impressive. There was some breathlessness, inevitably, and what generally happens is that you feel OK for a while and then hypeventilate briefly as your body struggles for oxygen from time to time. I was well ahead of the hordes and the views were brilliant, out over the Red Valley and further north to the huge peak of Ausungate, with vertical shimmering glaciers and icefalls just visible through layers of cloud. It reminded me of Svaneti in Georgia, me going up small hills while massive 'expedition' peaks like Ushaia and Ushba loomed beyond them. After a while, the crowds did get to me but the day improved as there was an optional extension to the 'red valley' above Pitumarca, which I obviously took. Then, at last, I was free to fly and the crowds melted away. It was absolutely staggering scenery, the lazy cliche would be 'Martian', shades of deep reds throughout, with yellow patches and unnamed peaks rising beyond. A level trail led through red sand to a col, and then instead of going to another 'viewpoint', I saw an opportunity to finally plough up the mountain I had identified as an obvious extension: this was called Hatun Ritiyop (I assume this is Quechua) and was completely empty and vastly more rewarding: 16,631ft. A snow shower was coming in, so I scampered down to final views of the valley, an even deeper red from this angle. A shortcut regains the tourist path as the snow and hail got heavier and a rumble of thunder sounded. A nice lunch in Cusipata followed.

Huacachina dunes

Peak: Huacachina North Dune (520m)

Area: Ica, Peru

This is essentially the extreme northern end of the vast Atacama desert, the driest place on Earth. As such, the desert here is classic 'erg', with sand dunes stretching into the distance. It is marred a little by Huacachina, a famous oasis that is now a backpacker's hangout. I didn't want to stay there, so instead I stayed in a hostel at the edge of nearby Ica, a big and bustling lowland Peruvian town. I had arrived in Lima in the middle of Tuesday night/Wednesday morning, then travelled to Ica via the Ballestas Islands today. I set off from Ica (just after seeing a superb vermillion flycatcher from my room window!) and made my way towards the huge north dune which throws down a sandy north-east 'ridge', which I ploughed up. The sand was fine, making the going ridiculously hard, constantly sliding downwards. But at the top, stunning views over Ica, the oasis, and most notably the vast dune system stretching into the interior: a spectacular sight and far more impressive than I had expected. A level wind-formed 'ridge' led along the top of the dune where I rested before plunging down the other side of the dune to the south-west. A jog through the oasis led back to the hostel for lomo saltado and chilcado.

SC-Neston run

If yesterday had been an attempt to regain sharpness after the injury, there is also an urgent need to increase the mileage if I am to have any chance at Marathon Eryri. As such, this was an equivocal success: the heel wasn't too bad, but I was aware of it most of the time, unlike yesterday. The idea was to get at least 15 miles in, a shorter northbound version of the full Wirral traverse I did in early 2020 (the 'north' version of the four long compass point runs I occasionally indulge in). It was very hot and humid, which didn't help, and I was already tired through Hawarden to Queensferry. This got worse through the Deeside industrial estate, which is psychologically tough at the best of times. Then came the nicer marshland near Burton but it was a real struggle to the Harp in Little Neston where I called it a day after a little over half marathon distance, badly dehydrated and generally depleted. I then walked the two miles to our meeting point in Neston and we did a picnic walk from Moreton. Only a partial success: minimal heel discomfort but a weird tiredness which may have a range of possible causes.

Hope parkrun

'Race': Park in the Past parkrun

Time/Position: 18.30 (2nd from 257)

After shockwave therapy at the physio on Wednesday, and a couple of cautious runs, I felt it was safe to try the local parkrun in an attempt to retain some sharpness. It went very well, and for a while it looked like I was going to record my third 'win' at the event (which isn't a race!). At the end, the very young lad in the little group of four front runners turned on his youthful finishing kick, which the old man couldn't match. All very encouraging after being barely able to walk less than three weeks ago.