Mileage increase

Upped the mileage to around 53m last week, running every day: needed to get some biggish runs in before Iceland. Joined the Collie run up Moel Famau in the mist on Friday. Had a short one on Saturday, then ran up Waun y Llyn from the house in 42 mins on Sunday (and back). Two races this week, then I'll ease off before Iceland.

Eglwyseg climbing

A slightly disappointing climbing trip to Trevor Rocks yesterday evening, in cool, windy conditions. Seconded Dale up The Full Nine Llaths (f5), then led the loose and unpleasant Cwm again (f4), before seconding Welsh Fargo (f5) and Dim Parcio (f4). All these newly bolted routes, to the left of the main climbing area, are rather scrappy: downright loose in places. Poor climbing and clearly near to a peregrine nest. Switched to the much better routes on the Compact Wall. Failed on the crux of Super Furry Frogs before clumsily climbing Boreholderline (f6a) after a rest (feeling tired after yesterday's 20 mile run), a steep route on the right of Compact Wall, and seconding I Met a Man from Mars (f6a+). This is a fine, sustained line up a steep flake on small positive holds: by far the best route of the day.

Llangollen-Kinnerton run

A cracking training run for the imminent Iceland ultra race with Dave today. Kate dropped us off in Llangollen, and we ran up to Eglwyseg via Dinbren wood to the Offa's Dyke path. Superb running below all the crags led to World's End and the steep climb up the Esclusham mountain road to the path along the Aber Sychnant. This was very vague indeed, almost impossible to follow through the bog and heather (although we did see a black grouse). Then down to Ty Hir farm, then NE to the Nant Road and up to Bwlchgwyn. Down the minor road skirting Nant y Ffrith to Glascoed, then the bridleway down to Ffrith. Up to Cymau, then Abermorddu, through Hope to Shordley and the lanes back to HK and the house. Probably about 18 miles, but largely off road and very hilly so felt much longer. Good training for Iceland.

Slackening off

A less active few days, feeling tired. Low mileage last week, and no climbing. Did some bouldering in the Twilight area of Eglwyseg on Friday, with a quick run to the plateau. Then did the Gallon Walk (or most of it) in beautiful weather with Neil on Friday evening. Pints in the Druid, Loggerheads, Swan, Rainbow, then up to Moel Findeg. Great event. Followed by a frantic day trip to Northern Ireland by plane from Liverpool with K and L. Had intended to run in the Mournes, but terrible weather meant a car tour of Armagh and Down was more sensible.

Druid fell race

A slightly disappointing performance in last night's Druid fell race, which does a double climb of Foel Fenlli from Llanferres, the first of the Clwydian summer trots. Finished about 50 secs up on last year's time in 40:25 for 14th place (same position as last year), but felt I didn't climb or descend particularly well. Felt annoyingly tired on both climbs up Foel Fenlli, should have been much fresher, but this race is so nice and enjoyable it didn't really matter. Weather was fairly windy and wet, so the woods were extremely dark!

Famau/Hope training

Feeling tired after recent events, but did have a good run up Moel Famau on Friday night with the Colomendy crew (immediately after 5-a-side in Saltney). Felt quite good, and followed up with the Golly 10k on Saturday (slow) then a few hill reps on Sunday. This morning, ran from Hope over Waun y Llyn to Coed Talon, along the track to Llanfynydd then back over to Hope.

Eglwyseg climbs

A successful and enjoyable evening's climbing on the bolts at Trevor with Dale. Decided to up the standard this time and was very pleased with the way I coped with routes that were considerably more technical and strenuous than most of the other climbs done this year. Began with a nice clean lead of Long Legged Lizard from Liverpool, a slabby f6a near the Compact Wall, which goes fairly easily to the break, with an obvious crux on a very small hold above the break to gain the lower-off. Good climb, as was No Reptiles, another very nice 6a climbed cleanly and quickly, satisfying: more sustained, good moves, but lacking any moves as hard as the crux on Long Legged. Took the opportunity to second the much more technical Snakes in the Grass, another sustained f6b, which I coped OK with. Then seconded K9, a short f5 route done before, then Dogs of War (f6a+) with its tricky crux move over the bulge. Then seconded Deputy Dog, a poor f4+, then the very nice traverse line Over the Wall (f6a) which I led last year. Finally top-roped Checkpoint Charlie, a splendid f6b. Steep, but also positive small holds on good rough rock. I was tiring by this point, but it seemed well leadable, although probably at my current limit. My aim is to lead every sports route at Trevor up to (and possibly including) f6b.

Up the Beast fell race

A new (or revived) local fell race took place on Tuesday evening. Far too soon after the 1000m race for me, but decided to support it by running it with tired legs! A cracking route, from the pub in Maeshafn south through the woods of Big Covert to the bridleway then steep climb up 'the beast' to the limestone hills of Bryn Alyn north of Eryrys. Good running across the limestone valleys back to the path skirting Burley Hills quarry and the village. Finished in about 32m, for about 14th place. OK, given the tiring nature of the weekend.

Llanberis slate

Had a conference yesterday in Llandudno, so took the opportunity to get some climbing in first. Scratched around unsuccessfully on Lliwedd before retreating to the bolted slate with Alwyn. Explored the Australia level this time, a huge bowl of shattered rock and a remarkable place. Led UBL, an easy HS with two bolts, then Sad Man Who's Sane, the slabby VS 4c to its left. Then led The Deceptive Dyke (F5+) up a wide groove in the face (NE Spur?) beyond the tunnel. Unusual route, up quartz holds - not slate. Because I'd wasted most of the day, we then just had time for Steps to Glory (F5) on the level above - the best route of the day, nice edging in a good position above the quarry. Then two poor routes to finish: Kinder Surprise (F4+) and Sport 4 All (F4+).

Welsh 1000m peaks fell race

A fantastic day yesterday, competing in the Welsh 1000 metre peaks fell race for the first time. This was a fairly long-term aim, but coming so soon after the marathon (13 days) I wasn't sure how I'd get on. In the event, I felt reasonably good throughout. It's an epic event, in every sense, starting with Neil Parry by the sea in Aber, going up and over the Aber Falls to the Afon Goch valley. Up the steep western wall of the valley to thread between Bera Mawr and Bera Bach, then into the clag. I joined a small group which traversed the side of Foel Grach to regain the main path up Llewellyn later on, shaving a few minutes of the route I'd planned. About 90 mins to the summit of Llewellyn from the coast, feeling fairly strong and well placed at this point (certainly in the top 20). A spectacular clearance as we ran along the ridge to Dafydd, cloud peeling away to the west. Then retraced steps along the edge of Cwm Lloer to the new checkpoint then steeply down to Ffynnon Llugwy, with dehydration starting to kick in. Had some water, then down the horrible tarmac road to the A5, more water, then up Nant yr Ogof (rather tiring) to crest the Glyder ridge at Llyn y Caseg fraith. Superb views of the east face of Tryfan kept my mind off the increasing fatigue! Completely alone at this point, the race spread out. Then the awful descent down the Miner's Track past another checkpoint. Very rocky and awkward, turned my ankle several times. West to Llyn Cwmffynnon, then an energy-sapping runnable bogtrot to Pen y Pass and more water. Surreal running through the tourists in the car park to the Pyg Track and final push for Yr Wyddfa. Went reasonably well, but I began to slow and was passed by five runners. Huge numbers of tourists on the path, which is runnable at many points. Up into the clag at the zigzags, but kept pushing to the top of Carnedd Ugain (Crib y Ddisgyl) in under 5 hours, then over to the summit of Snowdon - the fourth and final 1000m peak - in about 5:06, for 26th place. A long day in the saddle (22 miles, 8000ft+ climbing), particularly as we had to walk back to Llanberis from the summit: an extra 5 or 6 miles (although it was actually a very pleasant warm down).

Pinfold climbing

A brief evening climbing trip to Pinfold with Dale yesterday. Didn't get much done, but it was my first visit to this nicely situated crag for 15 or 16 years, so a real trip down memory lane - interesting to look at some of the lines I did then, remarkable to think that I'd soloed several of them. Yesterday, action was very limited: I soloed up and down the very simple Lax (M), then seconded Dale up Trophy (HS), the messy groove left of Obelisks Fly High. Then led Auto-de-Fe, a reasonable S (at least the top crack was nice). Couldn't remember doing this route before.

Clwydian run (Clwyd Gate-Nant y Garth)

A promising hill run this morning, in claggy, humid conditions. Felt good, surprisingly, so a good confidence boost for the 1000s next Saturday. Started from Llanarmon yn Ial intending to run over the tops of the six peaks between Clwyd Gate and Nant y Garth. Ran up to the Garreg Lwyd col, then up and down Moel Gyw. Then over Boncyn Banhadlen to the summit of Moel Llanfair, down the splendidly situated track (east) to join the OD path, breaking off again to run to the summit of Moel y Plas. Then excellent running along OD over the shoulder of Moel y Gelli, to the steep road east of Moel y Waun. Up to the summit of this hill too, then along the ridge to Moel yr Accre and back to the road via Brenhinlle Fawr. Then took the bridleway back via Llyn Gweryd to Llanarmon.

Cneifion arete

Nicely rounded off a very successful and active May yesterday with an ascent of old favourite Cneifion arete with Rich in beautiful sunshine. Last did this Alpine-style (M/III) ridge about 16 years ago, in big boots with no rope. Older, and wiser, we pitched it this time after approaching it via the East Wall Gully scramble (II) above Idwal. I led the nice initial wall, the only remotely problematic bit, up past two spikes to a short traverse and the belay. Then led up the sandy chimney to the upper arete. We continued to pitch this, but pleasingly efficiently, almost moving together keeping to the crest. Superb warm sunshine and fabulous crystal clear views under a deep blue sky. After lunch on the crest, we moved up to the Gribin ridge (I) and religiously followed the crest for more warm scrambling to the summit ridge then the top of Glyder Fawr. Heavy sacks, and tired legs (still suffering from the marathon) meant a quick jog down past Twll Du to Idwal and the car. Little running last week, just trying to recover in time for the 1000m race next Saturday. Managed a short one on Thursday, and did the Colomendy run on Friday: up Moel Famau in perfect weather again. Will try a fell run tomorrow, and perhaps intervals on Tuesday.