Friday, June 13, 2008

Eglwyseg climbs

A successful and enjoyable evening's climbing on the bolts at Trevor with Dale. Decided to up the standard this time and was very pleased with the way I coped with routes that were considerably more technical and strenuous than most of the other climbs done this year. Began with a nice clean lead of Long Legged Lizard from Liverpool, a slabby f6a near the Compact Wall, which goes fairly easily to the break, with an obvious crux on a very small hold above the break to gain the lower-off. Good climb, as was No Reptiles, another very nice 6a climbed cleanly and quickly, satisfying: more sustained, good moves, but lacking any moves as hard as the crux on Long Legged. Took the opportunity to second the much more technical Snakes in the Grass, another sustained f6b, which I coped OK with. Then seconded K9, a short f5 route done before, then Dogs of War (f6a+) with its tricky crux move over the bulge. Then seconded Deputy Dog, a poor f4+, then the very nice traverse line Over the Wall (f6a) which I led last year. Finally top-roped Checkpoint Charlie, a splendid f6b. Steep, but also positive small holds on good rough rock. I was tiring by this point, but it seemed well leadable, although probably at my current limit. My aim is to lead every sports route at Trevor up to (and possibly including) f6b.

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