Monday, July 28, 2008

Mont du Grand Capelet traverse


A tremendous traverse of Mont du Grand Capelet yesterday, a long term ambition and an ideal finale to the recent period of activity. The usual 4.30am start in Esterel, then the drive up to Gordolasque before setting off for Lac Autier and the start of the traverse. The path broke off for a steep climb up the south side of the Vallon de l'Autier, a steep gorge at this point. A family of chamois followed me for some way, as the sun lit the peaks to the west: Neiglier, Collomb and Ponset. Again, fantastic stuff. The route-finding was relatively simple by Mercantour standards but still became hard to follow as I reached the inevitable clapier fields leading to Lac Autier: a classic glacial lake in an intimidating cwm with huge rock walls rising on all sides. As usual, I was completely alone. However, the onward route up the couloir to the baisse (col) seemed reasonable. In fact, it was very enjoyable: up a superbly atmospheric side valley to the SE, up moranic debris and snowfields to enter the steep and shattered couloir. This led up to a short scramble and a stunning moment as I gained the baisse du lac autier, a small gap in the rock, to instant sunshine and fabulous views across the new country over the baisse de Valmasque to the east. From here, a short scramble gained a superb level traverse to a gap between two rock towers. Then intricate route-finding SW to the hollow below Cime de Nuffie. Up scree then a tortuous but reasonable traverse along rock shelves to the south, gradually moving upwards until easy scrambling gained the summit (2935m). Another great moment, I have wanted to do this peak for some time. Views superb, particularly into the great cirque of peaks surrounding the Nice hut: Ponset, Gelas, Maledie, Clapier, Chamineye (most of which I've done). Great views east to Bego and Merveilles, although the cloud was already boiling up. Tremendous to have a summit like this to myself. Continued this superb traverse by descending the south ridge down to the narrow Pas des Conques, tremendous rock architecture. Up to the col, then nipped up the side peak of Mont des Merveilles (2720m), fantastic views up to the Capelet. From here, an easy descent on scree led to the minor summit of Mont de l'Arpette, then down to the Pas de l'Arpette for a long but superbly scenic descent to Pont de Countet. A supremely satisfying, highly rewarding traverse, and a memorable mountain day (4:40hrs, back in Esterel for lunch!). Led Bistokere (f3b) for the children at Theole today, along with Arc en Ciel (f3b) and soloed Lets Go and Moonflower at Dramont after snorkelling on the 26th. A few more runs this week, but very humid.

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