Carreg Wastad climbs, Famau run

Crag: Carreg Wastad, Llanberis
Routes: Skylon (HS 4b,4b:led p.1), Shadow Wall (VS 4a,4c:sec), Ribstone Crack (VS 4c,4a: led p.2), Crackstone Rib (S:led p.1,2)
A splendid collection of routes, and - combined with an evening hill run - a very full day in glorious late summer sunshine. Particularly pleasing to get these routes in as we were a rope of three, which is always slower, and we had a self-assigned deadline of 4pm. The first pitch of Skylon was a perfect aperitif - an easy but satisfying and absorbing pitch up the left edge of the crag. Sharp jugs lead to an excellent nut below the little roof, then great steep moves up a thin crack on the right until it becomes possible to step delicately left on to the overhang. A lovely rising traverse on good holds then leads gently to the belay ledge. Just one tricky move, but great climbing. Mick then led a second pitch direct through the bulge above. After a quick bite, I revisited Shadow Wall for the first time since I led it in 1993. Mick merged both pitches to the tree and I followed, finding the sequence of gaining and leaving the three shelves below the roof unpleasantly polished, constricted and surprisingly awkward: not my favourite route! We abbed off for Vic's lead, up the excellent Ribstone Crack. This is a fine pitch, much better than Shadow Wall - and, in my view, considerably easier. It is steep, and certainly top end VS, but apart from one or two tricky side pulls towards the top is fairly easy. Really satisfying and sustained crack climbing though, positive holds and a good test of footwork to keep the climbing non-thrutchy and vaguely elegant. I then led p.2 on a single 9mm, up to a tree and a huge, steep flake to the top. We had half an hour before having to leave to get to the Collie, and uber-classic Crackstone Rib looked so tempting and sun-drenched that it begged to be climbed, so we jogged down to the foot of the crag and I sprinted up the route in five minutes. Probably 17 years since I last did this route - but if ever there was a route to repeat endlessly it's this one. The gloriously simple traverse left was a delight, as was the move on to the wonderfully juggy and sun-drenched rib. Scampered up this, double-quick, and brought Vic and Mick up simultaneously before Mick led through the groove and mini hand-traverse to the top. Really satisfying to squeeze this route in, particularly as I have a feeling I didn't lead the key traverse/rib pitch all those years ago. Jogged to the car, drove back across the moors, and arrived at the Collie bang on 6 for the run up Famau in the hazy evening sunshine - beginning to tire as we arrived at the summit! Kept it going all the way though, and rehydrated with some hop-based energy drinks.