Monday, September 21, 2009

World's End climbing

Crag: World's End, Eglwyseg
Routes: Ivy Crack (S 4a:led), Sting (HS 4b:led), Open Book (S:led), JTP (HVS 5a:sec), Ivy Groove (VS 4b:led), Crystal (E1 5b:sec)

The high pressure disappeared just before this brief late visit with Alwyn: light rain throughout, windy too, although never really enough to spoil the climbing. I've done most of the routes here below E1, so tried to fill in some gaps still remaining after 20 years. Began with a lead of the undistinguished Ivy Crack on the exposed left hand of the crag, a wide semi-layback crack. Sting was much better, a good climb up the big flake to gain a ledge - then the surprisingly enjoyable wide crack up to an excellent jug and easy finish. Well positioned above the valley, an obvious line. Open Book is an old favourite, done many times, some rain as I led through after Alwyn backed off. JTP takes the corner further left via a strenuous but quite easy layback, just about stays independent as a line. Ivy Groove looks scrappy, but is a surprisingly good VS. Not too polished, with some nice crisp moves once the tree is passed and the sharp little groove gained. Crystal is top-end E1, felt hard, certainly steep and strenuous. Slipped after the powerful layback, and the thin crack above this keeps on coming - quite sustained, although the holds are all there.

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