Acheron, Craig Cywarch

Crag: Craig Llywellyn/North Buttress, Craig Cywarch
Route: Acheron (HVS 4c,4c,4c,4b,5a:led p.2,4)
This route is generally described as a 'magnificent mountaineering expedition' and it is difficult to improve on that. We'd been so impressed with Cywarch during our previous trip in April that we were both very keen to sample the larger, more atmospheric cliffs along the north-eastern edge of the escarpment. Tucked away up a side valley, Acheron takes the most obvious feature - an enormous 150m rib running the full height of the cliff - indirectly via an intricate and wonderfully varied sequence of pitches. Rain was forecast for mid-afternoon, but we judged that last week's dry weather would allow for an enjoyable ascent before it arrived. Vic led up the slabby first pitch, with one tricky move over an overlap. I then led the excellent second, up a slanting groove with good gear to a memorable traverse on fine juggy holds across the right wall to gain a slabby nose. Up this to a distinctly unpleasant heather ledge which led right to the belay. The third pitch was just as good: a nice slab leads diagonally left to the arete, before a superbly positioned groove, steep but with huge holds, leads to another juggy traverse left to the gully. I led the fourth, which was similar to the second, although shorter and easier. Again, a steep crack with excellent gear led to a guano covered mini-cave. Then a semi hand-traverse below a bulge on splendid sharp holds leads back right to the rib and a fine belay. Vic led the crux 5a pitch: an awkward and steep chimney which led to a smooth open groove, tricky bridging, before easier and more broken climbing up a series of vegetated grooves and ribs led to the final short wall. A memorable route, with excellent non-technical but always interesting climbing, which is improved immeasurably by the wonderfully isolated position in this beautiful tranquil valley. The adventure continues with the descent down Llwybr Llewellyn, a broad but very vegetated shelf leading back to the cwm. This was a tiring struggle through thick heather and ferns, and I began to feel the effects of last night's run up Moel Famau. Plans to continue up Doom were shelved due to light rain (which soon became heavier) and the need to get home before 5pm, so we left before 3pm.