East Face of Bristly Ridge

Crag: East Face, Bristly Ridge, Glyder Fach
Routes: Skyline Buttress (S 4a,4a,4a:led p.1,3), Great Tower Buttress (HS 4a,4b,-,4a,4a: led p.2,4,5)
Time was even more limited than usual today: I had five hours in total (car to car). So this was a rather frantic dash to bag the two best routes on the East Face of Bristly (excellent weather meant it would have been rude to have done anything except big mountain routes). We ploughed up to Bwlch Tryfan in perfect weather in less than 30 minutes and were soon getting our bearings on this rather complex crag. It bears many similarities with Tryfan's East Face, although a tad steeper, but I'd never climbed here before (neither have most climbers: it is far more tranquil). Skyline Buttress draws the eye from the Bwlch, looking quite impressive as its name suggests, and gives a nice climb up the left side of the face. I led up a rib to a ledge, then a pleasant slab gives access to a steeper rib which is climbed on good holds: superb rough and unpolished rock throughout. Alwyn then led the enjoyable and eye-catching broad groove above, which has a good traverse to gain an upper slab, where he belayed. I led up the slab on huge holds to merge with the final pitch: a surprisingly steep wall which leads to a brief knife-edge arete. We descended to the sacs, had a very quick bite, and ploughed on. Alwyn led the scrappy first pitch of Great Tower Buttress, up ribs to a ledge. I then led the jamming crack on pitch 2: steeply up to a small ledge, then better holds lead up right to a chimney which is climbed on its right wall. Quite strenuous for the grade. Alwyn led over a horizontal ridge, giving me the last two pitches which were both splendid. A really enjoyable open groove on superb holds leads to a belay ledge below the Great Tower. Then a wide groove, with a crack on the right wall, provides a meaty and excellent climax. Steep climbing on big holds emerging into the sunshine on the top of the Great Tower in the centre of Bristly Ridge. Much better than Skyline Buttress, a route with a lovely mountain ambience. I now had 30 minutes to get back to the car. Central Gully gave an interesting and enjoyable descent from atmospheric Tower Gap, and I then ran back - good pace - to the car in Ogwen in 20 minutes.