Chicane Gully

Crag: Cwm Idwal
Route: Chicane Gully (wIII 4,3,3/4:led p.3)
Tropical temperatures as I left the house at 6.30. Infuriating timing after a week of near-perfect conditions for the ice routes in Idwal, but this was the only tiny window available. It got even warmer as I drove to Ogwen, and it was clear that a very aggressive thaw was taking place. Still, Vic, Mick and I walked in anyway: torrents of slush flowing down Idwal Staircase, cloud right down, a thoroughly depressing experience. There was still a great deal of ice around, though, and we continued to the base of the Screen. Sadly, this had a waterfall pouring down it, so we contoured round to South Gully - another waterfall. However, the icefalls to the right seemed drier and the opening pitch of Chicane Gully looked a lot better. This begins up a little bay, below a large icicle, and takes an appealing pillar of water ice. I followed Vic up this excellent 45m pitch: steepish moist ice, probably closer to IV than III, giving good climbing up to an unexpected mixed section as the left wall closes in. Got rather wet on this 15m open chimney, but it gave absorbing mixed climbing. The second pitch is a complete contrast, up the shallower continuation of the gully, and was far easier today, despite the conditions and guidebook description. A mixture of melting snow, semi-frozen turf, heather and rock (but all far more fun than appearances suggested, with surprisingly solid placements and more mixed climbing). Vic belayed half-way up, giving me an interesting final pitch which went up easy snow to a short crux involving an awkward pull up on insecure soft powder and high step to overcome an ice umbrella. Everything else was pouring with water, but at least we grabbed a little morsel before it all disappears.