Cwm Lloer climbing

Crag: Craig Lloer, Ogwen
Routes: The Rib (S 4a:led p.1,3), Kirkus's Route (VS 4a,5a,4a:led p.1,3)
I've spent a lot of time up in this wonderful cwm over the years: indeed Kate and I were here on the first day of the 21st century. I've done all the snow climbs, and walked/run the ridge dozens of times: in short, I like the place, but surprisingly I'd only ticked a couple of the rock climbs and had never done the famous Kirkus route, which takes the most obvious line on the crag. It seemed a perfect choice for Vic and I today, and so it proved: an early start, absolutely stunning spring weather, and an ideal way to avoid the Bank Holiday crowds. The crag is east-facing, and as we rounded the corner after a relaxed and very enjoyable walk-in, our choice was vindicated. Apart from one party on the easy North Ridge, which I did with Steve many years ago, the crag was deserted - but sun-drenched. The clarity of light was superb, and there wasn't a breath of wind as I led up the first pitch of The Rib (selected as a gentle re-introduction to trad mountain routes after an even longer than usual winter lay-off). A tricky move gains the top of a short pinnacle, then another tricky move up a mossy slab to an unfortunate vegetated section. As soon as I saw the next pitch, a beautiful clean 120ft rib snaking upwards, I selfishly regretted the fact that it was Vic's lead! It gave a superb pitch with wonderful gentle climbing in the sunshine: completely unheralded, and therefore unpopular and unpolished. A couple of steeper sections gave pause for thought, but it was generally a romp up positive little holds, neatly sustained at the lowly grade. I led a shorter third up a groove to a step left to the continuation of the rib line. A nice descent down the Y gully and a sunny lunch. It was then time for Kirkus's Route, which takes an easy chimney to an steep little groove which leads to some pleasant slabs. The meat of the route is provided by the second pitch, a seemingly vicious off-width crack which actually goes a little easier than expected. Vic made slow but steady progress up the pitch. It is a little too wide for decent jams, but some small ledges on the walls provide the odd foothold to ease progress. That said, the move to gain the chockstone is still a tricky thrutch, but above this a long reach gains an arete hold left of the crack, which then gives access to the big holds on the top of the right wall. The wind picked up for my enjoyable final pitch, which was still sun-drenched. It traverses right to gain the edge of the arete: up this, to moves left to gain the top of an obvious square groove, then easy slabby climbing in a nice position to the top. A delightful descent back into the sunny cwm, then gently down following the stream to Ogwen - wheatears singing all the way.