Stanage/Burbage climbing

Crag: Stanage Edge, Peak
Routes: Fire Curtain (VD:sol), Square Buttress Wall (VS 4b:sol), Square Buttress Corner (D:sol), Square Chimney (M:sol), Velcro Arete (HS 4c:sol), Zip Crack (M:sol), Mantelpiece Crack (D:sol), Mantelpiece Buttress (D:sol), Small Crack (VD:sol), Grotto Slab (D:sol), Eeny (HVD:sol), Meeny (HS 4b:sol), Miny Arete (HS 4b:sol), Easy Jamming (HVD:sol)
Crag: Burbage North, Peak
Routes: Little Plumb (D:sol), Cranberry Wall (VD:sol), Cranberry Crack (VD:sol), Steptoe (M:sol)
My old pal Jon, a lifelong Peak resident, had recently been in touch. So I took the opportunity to head across for an evening fell race before meeting him in Matlock. I arrived a bit early, and the sun was shining, so it seemed rude not to take advantage of the fact that my climbing gear was still in the boot from yesterday! Admittedly, getting a few routes in before the race had always been in the back of my mind, but the weather made it even more attractive, so I headed up to the little walls that run to the north of Stanage Popular, and enjoyed myself on some short easy climbs. The corner of Fire Curtain was followed by the more technical Square Buttress Wall up little 4b edges. As ever, my lack of grit schooling shows itself whenever I come here - which hasn't been very often over the years. Still, it was all very enjoyable. I liked Velcro Arete with its 4c start, and the ultra-easy Mantelpiece routes. I went up and down Small Crack from the easy top section, and took in the longer climb of Grotto Slab, which I've done before. Although this section of cliff is less busy than the rest of Stanage, however, it's still far too busy for my taste so I wandered over to the isolated Apparent North section, which immediately appealed to me, if only because you can get a bit of peace. A few short routes concluded with the delightful short crack of Easy Jamming, which does what it says on the tin. I then drove down to Hathersage, got wireless access in a cafe, marked some dissertations over a pint of tea, and then drove back up to Burbage North to do some more short routes (and because the fell race was going to head this way later in the evening and it seemed appropriate). The weather was even better, the warm sun perfectly lighting the crag. I curtailed the visit, however, wanting to preserve at least a bit of energy for the race after a tiring few days, and headed for pre-race coffee and cake at the Millstone pub.