Race: Wirral MT Series, Arrowe Park
Time/Position: 26.49 (17th from 219 [2nd V45])
Half a minute down on last year's time, exactly the same as two weeks ago, so my slowdown is at least consistent! Last year, this race was something of a showdown as our V45 category went right down to the wire. This year, the pressure was off as I have already missed two races in the four race series, so I just used it as a speed session. It is a great course round Arrowe Park near Birkenhead: quick running through the woods, which get very dark on the second lap as dusk gathers, then some surprisingly tough gently rising slogs across a series of playing fields.
Tuesday, September 27, 2016
Friday, September 23, 2016
Chisinau run
After memorable day trips to Transdniester (Wednesday) and Gagauzia (Thursday) I had a bit of time for a run in the Moldovan capital this morning. I had already managed an unusual jog yesterday on my return from Gagauzia, running from the distant South Bus station in the furthest suburbs of Chisinau to my city centre hotel 6km away, stopping only for beer, sarmale and ciorba! As with many post-Soviet cities, Chisinau is not ideally suited to running with its potholes, crumbling pavements and big kerbstones. But, having said that, there's plenty of green space in the city and it is certainly easier than I found running in Tbilisi, Bishkek, Yerevan and the like. This morning I ran from my hotel at the eastern end of Pushkin Street up towards the parliament in perfect crisp, clear and sunny conditions. I made my way to the obvious large urban lake of Parcul Valea Morilor and did a lap of this with several other runners. I made my way back via a tortuous return through the city centre.
Saturday, September 17, 2016
Mourne traverse
Peaks: Slieve Meelmore (704m), Slieve Bearnagh (727m), Slievenaglogh (586m), Slieve Corragh (641m), Slieve Commedagh (767m), Slieve Donard (850m), Slieve Beg (596m)
Area: Mourne Mountains, Northern Ireland
A traverse of the northern Mournes, a very pleasant outing but far removed from the reason we were here! In fact, we were here to do the Mourne Mountain Marathon elite course, long in the planning and obviously requiring some complex logistics. Peter and I had flown in to Belfast on Friday and arrived at the Meelmore lodge late on Friday night. This morning, a bus from Tollymore took us through delightful Ulster countryside to the start of the event at the Fofanny dam. All went well initially, although I always find it takes a while to 'get your eye in' on mountain marathons and we made a few small errors. After a bigger error on the north side of Slieve Meelmore, we slogged over the top of the hill and, when looking for the next checkpoint, Peter let out an agonised shout and keeled over: ankle badly sprained. That was essentially the end of that, a mere two hours into the event. We descended slowly to the col where Peter could hobble down to Meelmore. The day, rather frustratingly, was getting better and better: blue sky with some high cloud drifting in and out, warm but not too hot. The only option for me was a long run in the hills as a consolation prize. As I've never visited the Mournes before (apart from a trip to Newcastle in filthy weather with K and L some years ago) this was an appealing prospect. The northern traverse seemed an obvious continuation from Slieve Meelmore so I jogged up the steep side of Slieve Bearnagh, soon slowing to a striding walk. This is a fine hill, steep and shapely, and from this side even gives some mild scrambling if you look for it. Its summit is crowned with several large tors, reminiscent of Dartmoor granite. In fact, its summit is probably one of the harder summits to reach in the British Isles. I guessed the highpoint, took a route through a notch then along to two mild chimneys which led to the true summit and excellent views over the range: I had the time to really get my bearings, which I wouldn't have done had we been engaged in the intricacies of the mountain marathon! Good running led down to the famous Hare's Gap, a broad col, and the next lower peaks of Slievenaglogh and Slieve Corragh were also fairly gentle and runnable with good paths near the remarkable Mourne Wall, which continues along the entire ridge. I managed to find a water source at the next col and took a short break there. Slieve Commedagh is a steep haul but another fine peak with its summit set back a bit from the main ridge line and good sea and coastal views. I had it to myself, in stark contrast to Slieve Donard, and watched dozens of walkers slogging up to the summit as the mist covered it, then melted away again. I ran to the col, where numbers increased dramatically, perhaps 10 or 15 fold! I suppose Slieve Donard is so dominant, and so accessible from Newcastle, that it inevitably becomes a major day trip target. Its the highest point in Northern Ireland too, which probably adds to the appeal. It is a dull and crowded slog along the wall from the col to the summit, so I jogged where I could, reaching it in around 19 minutes. Mist drifted across the summit, with partial clearances giving views of the sea directly below. I ran down to the Bog of Donard at the top of the Bloody Bridge route, then joined the superb Brandy Pad - which takes a great direct route through the middle of the range, traversing below the peaks I had just done. I broke off to take in the minor summit of Slieve Beg for views of the Annalong Valley, then enjoyed the glorious gentle descent to Hare's Gap. From here, more excellent sunny running led down past some impressive granite crags to Meelmore lodge and our unplanned overnight camp. Very far from the weekend we had planned, and obviously a disappointment, but still an enjoyable traverse in great conditions and a fun weekend in Northern Ireland.
Area: Mourne Mountains, Northern Ireland
A traverse of the northern Mournes, a very pleasant outing but far removed from the reason we were here! In fact, we were here to do the Mourne Mountain Marathon elite course, long in the planning and obviously requiring some complex logistics. Peter and I had flown in to Belfast on Friday and arrived at the Meelmore lodge late on Friday night. This morning, a bus from Tollymore took us through delightful Ulster countryside to the start of the event at the Fofanny dam. All went well initially, although I always find it takes a while to 'get your eye in' on mountain marathons and we made a few small errors. After a bigger error on the north side of Slieve Meelmore, we slogged over the top of the hill and, when looking for the next checkpoint, Peter let out an agonised shout and keeled over: ankle badly sprained. That was essentially the end of that, a mere two hours into the event. We descended slowly to the col where Peter could hobble down to Meelmore. The day, rather frustratingly, was getting better and better: blue sky with some high cloud drifting in and out, warm but not too hot. The only option for me was a long run in the hills as a consolation prize. As I've never visited the Mournes before (apart from a trip to Newcastle in filthy weather with K and L some years ago) this was an appealing prospect. The northern traverse seemed an obvious continuation from Slieve Meelmore so I jogged up the steep side of Slieve Bearnagh, soon slowing to a striding walk. This is a fine hill, steep and shapely, and from this side even gives some mild scrambling if you look for it. Its summit is crowned with several large tors, reminiscent of Dartmoor granite. In fact, its summit is probably one of the harder summits to reach in the British Isles. I guessed the highpoint, took a route through a notch then along to two mild chimneys which led to the true summit and excellent views over the range: I had the time to really get my bearings, which I wouldn't have done had we been engaged in the intricacies of the mountain marathon! Good running led down to the famous Hare's Gap, a broad col, and the next lower peaks of Slievenaglogh and Slieve Corragh were also fairly gentle and runnable with good paths near the remarkable Mourne Wall, which continues along the entire ridge. I managed to find a water source at the next col and took a short break there. Slieve Commedagh is a steep haul but another fine peak with its summit set back a bit from the main ridge line and good sea and coastal views. I had it to myself, in stark contrast to Slieve Donard, and watched dozens of walkers slogging up to the summit as the mist covered it, then melted away again. I ran to the col, where numbers increased dramatically, perhaps 10 or 15 fold! I suppose Slieve Donard is so dominant, and so accessible from Newcastle, that it inevitably becomes a major day trip target. Its the highest point in Northern Ireland too, which probably adds to the appeal. It is a dull and crowded slog along the wall from the col to the summit, so I jogged where I could, reaching it in around 19 minutes. Mist drifted across the summit, with partial clearances giving views of the sea directly below. I ran down to the Bog of Donard at the top of the Bloody Bridge route, then joined the superb Brandy Pad - which takes a great direct route through the middle of the range, traversing below the peaks I had just done. I broke off to take in the minor summit of Slieve Beg for views of the Annalong Valley, then enjoyed the glorious gentle descent to Hare's Gap. From here, more excellent sunny running led down past some impressive granite crags to Meelmore lodge and our unplanned overnight camp. Very far from the weekend we had planned, and obviously a disappointment, but still an enjoyable traverse in great conditions and a fun weekend in Northern Ireland.
Tuesday, September 13, 2016
Wirral Multi-Terrain Series, Thurstaston
Race: Wirral MT Series, Race 2 (Thurstaston Beach)
Time/Position: 30.01 (14th from 236 [3rd V45])
Having thoroughly enjoyed this series last year, and having won my category, I was keen to give the races another go this year. But circumstances look like preventing me completing the series: indeed I was in Austria for the first race last week. As a result, I just treated this race as a speed session and wasn't too disappointed with a time well over half a minute down on last year. I struggled a bit with the pace, as I expected to, but just about held on for the second lap along the beach. The sand seemed softer than last year, with more boulders, but perhaps it just seemed that way! A great combination of cycle tracks and beach running, with oystercatchers and curlews a nice accompaniment.
Time/Position: 30.01 (14th from 236 [3rd V45])
Having thoroughly enjoyed this series last year, and having won my category, I was keen to give the races another go this year. But circumstances look like preventing me completing the series: indeed I was in Austria for the first race last week. As a result, I just treated this race as a speed session and wasn't too disappointed with a time well over half a minute down on last year. I struggled a bit with the pace, as I expected to, but just about held on for the second lap along the beach. The sand seemed softer than last year, with more boulders, but perhaps it just seemed that way! A great combination of cycle tracks and beach running, with oystercatchers and curlews a nice accompaniment.
Saturday, September 10, 2016
Grainau trail run
We headed straight for Garmisch after the Wildspitze, stopping only for coffee and cake in Imst. After an excellent evening near our hotel in Partenkirchen, we had limited time this morning before heading back to Munich airport. There was a crag near Grainau, so we headed there for a few climbs, only to find a rather scruffy and unappealing wall of conglomerate. After an excellent few days in the Otztal, this just seemed wrong, so we decided on a trail run into the hills instead, mainly to enjoy the fantastic views of the Zugspitze across the valley (we had already pledged to make a return trip to take in the routes on these limestone peaks above Garmisch). We crossed the Loisach river, crystal clear and delightful, the water glinting in the low sunshine, and headed up the Kramerlaine valley. Vic descended to the riverside trail, while I continued upwards for a while, unsurprisingly rather tired after the last few days but enjoying the beauty of the Bavarian hills and the superbly civilised nature of the trails themselves. I made it to a highpoint above the valley and admired the view across to the Alpspitze and Zugspitze before taking a contouring path back down. After a wash and submersion in the icy river, we headed to Munich.
Friday, September 09, 2016
Wildspitze
Peak: Wildspitze (3772m/12362ft)
Route: Mitterkarjoch/Normal Route (PD)
Area: Otztal Alps, Austria
The highest peak in the Tyrol, and the second highest in Austria, the Wildspitze is also a very beautiful objective. It takes the form of a tent-like pyramid soaring above extensive snowfields. It was an obvious target for our short trip, and is unsurprisingly popular. It gives a straightforward but excellent route over the Mitterkarjoch: much more interesting and varied than we had anticipated, as it breaks down into four distinct parts. Breakfast was at 5.30am, late by Alpine standards, and we were away by 6.15. The route initially climbs into the Mitterkar, a glacial bowl of rubble and boulders which has presumably lost a great deal of its ice in recent years. A decent path winds through the moraines until the upper cwm is reached. The dim light gave way to Alpenglow on the Hinterer Brochkogel high above while behind a cloud inversion formed in the Vental. We passed one big guided party just before the cairns ran out as the upper cwm was reached. This is guarded by steep rock walls, with the summit of the Wildspitze high up on the right of the cwm, cloud streamers curling over the cornices. The actual Mitterkarjoch, which is the key to the whole route, is a tight col above a hidden rock couloir that rises steeply to the north. A dry glacier, just shallow ice, rapidly diminishing, leads up to the couloir, so we donned crampons and headed upwards, behind another guided party. The route up was pleasant, frozen solid after a cold night. Eventually, the glacier gives way to a small bergschrund and then a 150ft via ferrata section, which takes the couloir on its solid left-hand side up a series of cables. I would imagine that, until fairly recently, this couloir was a tracked out snow plod. Now the cables take you on to fairly solid ground up the left walls. Some surprisingly strenuous hauls needed, tricky work in crampons, and we were initially stuck behind the one small guided party that now remained in front of us. However, the steepness eases quite quickly and gives way to a long and very enjoyable diagonal traverse, eventually gaining the atmospheric Mitterkarjoch itself, where the environment and ambience changes suddenly and utterly from rock to snow as you enter the white world of the upper snowfields. The small col gives access to the summit glacier and is a tremendous spot with new views to the west over the Pitztal to Glochturm and a galaxy of other peaks. Cloud in the valleys just added to the atmosphere, particularly as wisps enveloped us from time to time. We geared up for the glacier crossing, which was a delight. Horizontal initially, it then rears up and crosses three or four crevasses. At this point, we were joined by climbers from the Pitztal side, but it never got overly crowded. The glacier crossing ends at a shallow col below the final rocky (at this time of year) summit pyramid. We removed ice gear and scrambled to the top (3 hours), very enjoyable despite the altitude. Verglassed rocks and my ancient Alpine boots (badly worn soles!) made it a little trickier than it might have been. Banks of cloud filled the Otztal and Pitztal with the high summits rising above, a spectacular view. Looking over the Stubai to the Schrankogel was particularly satisfying, and the nearby peaks on the Italian border were also notable, like the Similaun and Weisskugel. We deliberately timed the descent to perfection after a wonderful stay on the summit, avoiding the biggest guided parties on the scramble, then romping down the glacier to ensure we had the couloir to ourselves: this worked perfectly and we made rapid progress back to the hut. After enjoyable crampon work down the dry glacier, we took a long rest in the upper Mitterkar, enjoying the high Alpine ambience for one last time, then the long trudge through the moraines back to the Breslauer Hut (the first team down, just before midday) for Bergsteigerressen (wurst and pasta) and coffee. Thus fortified, we made our way down to Stablein in hot sunshine.
Route: Mitterkarjoch/Normal Route (PD)
Area: Otztal Alps, Austria
The highest peak in the Tyrol, and the second highest in Austria, the Wildspitze is also a very beautiful objective. It takes the form of a tent-like pyramid soaring above extensive snowfields. It was an obvious target for our short trip, and is unsurprisingly popular. It gives a straightforward but excellent route over the Mitterkarjoch: much more interesting and varied than we had anticipated, as it breaks down into four distinct parts. Breakfast was at 5.30am, late by Alpine standards, and we were away by 6.15. The route initially climbs into the Mitterkar, a glacial bowl of rubble and boulders which has presumably lost a great deal of its ice in recent years. A decent path winds through the moraines until the upper cwm is reached. The dim light gave way to Alpenglow on the Hinterer Brochkogel high above while behind a cloud inversion formed in the Vental. We passed one big guided party just before the cairns ran out as the upper cwm was reached. This is guarded by steep rock walls, with the summit of the Wildspitze high up on the right of the cwm, cloud streamers curling over the cornices. The actual Mitterkarjoch, which is the key to the whole route, is a tight col above a hidden rock couloir that rises steeply to the north. A dry glacier, just shallow ice, rapidly diminishing, leads up to the couloir, so we donned crampons and headed upwards, behind another guided party. The route up was pleasant, frozen solid after a cold night. Eventually, the glacier gives way to a small bergschrund and then a 150ft via ferrata section, which takes the couloir on its solid left-hand side up a series of cables. I would imagine that, until fairly recently, this couloir was a tracked out snow plod. Now the cables take you on to fairly solid ground up the left walls. Some surprisingly strenuous hauls needed, tricky work in crampons, and we were initially stuck behind the one small guided party that now remained in front of us. However, the steepness eases quite quickly and gives way to a long and very enjoyable diagonal traverse, eventually gaining the atmospheric Mitterkarjoch itself, where the environment and ambience changes suddenly and utterly from rock to snow as you enter the white world of the upper snowfields. The small col gives access to the summit glacier and is a tremendous spot with new views to the west over the Pitztal to Glochturm and a galaxy of other peaks. Cloud in the valleys just added to the atmosphere, particularly as wisps enveloped us from time to time. We geared up for the glacier crossing, which was a delight. Horizontal initially, it then rears up and crosses three or four crevasses. At this point, we were joined by climbers from the Pitztal side, but it never got overly crowded. The glacier crossing ends at a shallow col below the final rocky (at this time of year) summit pyramid. We removed ice gear and scrambled to the top (3 hours), very enjoyable despite the altitude. Verglassed rocks and my ancient Alpine boots (badly worn soles!) made it a little trickier than it might have been. Banks of cloud filled the Otztal and Pitztal with the high summits rising above, a spectacular view. Looking over the Stubai to the Schrankogel was particularly satisfying, and the nearby peaks on the Italian border were also notable, like the Similaun and Weisskugel. We deliberately timed the descent to perfection after a wonderful stay on the summit, avoiding the biggest guided parties on the scramble, then romping down the glacier to ensure we had the couloir to ourselves: this worked perfectly and we made rapid progress back to the hut. After enjoyable crampon work down the dry glacier, we took a long rest in the upper Mitterkar, enjoying the high Alpine ambience for one last time, then the long trudge through the moraines back to the Breslauer Hut (the first team down, just before midday) for Bergsteigerressen (wurst and pasta) and coffee. Thus fortified, we made our way down to Stablein in hot sunshine.
Thursday, September 08, 2016
Oberried climbing
Crag: Oberried (Otztal, Tyrol, Austria)
Routes: Captain Hook (u6-/f5b:led), Mila Johara (u5-:sec), Night Rider (u5-:sec), Playboy (u5/f5a:sec), Baker Street (u6/f5c:led), Grisu (u7-/f6a+:sec), Loreley (f5b:led), Loschaktion (f5b:led), Wasserklang (f5b:led), Lausbubenverschneidung (u6+/f6a:sec)
A truly delightful crag, with well over 100 varied routes in a wonderful setting next to tranquil valley pastures with tremendous views up towards the Gamskogel and other peaks. It was virtually walking distance from our hotel, just across the valley floor, but had its own car park with toilet. A hot day seemed likely, so we started early as the morning sun hit the crag casting long shadows over the wet meadows, cow bells the only sound. Our chosen starting point was a side slab, with three overlapping slabs, all quite distinct, with the top one jutting out over a steeper wall. Captain Hook took the full height and gave a pleasant VS pitch, delicate climbing interspersed by the odd steeper move over each bulge. Vic led the similar but shorter line to the left, and two easier routes further right completed the fun. After this little warm up, it was already too hot to climb in the sun so we found a shady west-facing nook further left where I led Baker Street, an excellent HVS/f5c pitch up a steep wall of grey granite. It looked slightly smooth and polished from below, but wasn't really: it took an obvious line of weakness up the steep wall, a diagonal line of jugs leading towards the left-hand arete, then weaving right taking a further line of positive cracks up the steeper headwall. Great pitch, although bettered by Vic's lead of Grisu at f6a+. This took a direct line up that left-hand arete and gave superb climbing. A thin but positive flake crack right on the edge of the arete gave steep, dynamic moves up to a rest. Then an intermittent crack system with some interesting jamming led to the top via more fine climbing direct up the edge of the arete: excellent pitch. Further left, back in the sunshine, I led the classic corner line of Loreley - which felt like a traditional British VS. An obvious, strong line with some surprisingly awkward bridging and steep moves higher up. Loschaktion, immediately right, was a distinct contrast, taking a clean and delicate slab via some surprisingly technical moves on small holds and foot smears. Both quite stiff leads for the grade. Wasserklang was the worst pitch of the trip: something of a sandbag with me tiring after a bad night's sleep. A very steep start up an overhanging wall led to two thrutchy and steep grooves: awkward and disjointed, but close to a picturesque waterfall, as its name suggests. I flailed clumsily up this, with fading forearms, but was revived by the terrific corner of Lausbubenverschneidung (scallywag's corner!), a great f6a led by Vic, taking a very obvious clean corner direct up the high face at the left of the crag. Easy climbing low down leads to a superb textbook layback crack. Great moves up this to a high jug, before a pulsating finish taking the steepening finger crack in the corner. The crux comes right at the top: a layaway and very long reach for a flat finishing hold. With regret, we called it a day after 10 routes and headed up the valley for a late lunch before driving up to Vent at the end of the Otztal. From here, we got the chairlift to Stablein, then enjoyed a wonderful relaxed walk-in over the dramatic Rofenbach to the Breslauer Hut in great weather. Another superb hut, more traditional and crowded than the Amberger, with us in a small wooden room with great views. We refuelled with goulash, spatzle, gruner veltliner, blaufrankisch and other delights.
Routes: Captain Hook (u6-/f5b:led), Mila Johara (u5-:sec), Night Rider (u5-:sec), Playboy (u5/f5a:sec), Baker Street (u6/f5c:led), Grisu (u7-/f6a+:sec), Loreley (f5b:led), Loschaktion (f5b:led), Wasserklang (f5b:led), Lausbubenverschneidung (u6+/f6a:sec)
A truly delightful crag, with well over 100 varied routes in a wonderful setting next to tranquil valley pastures with tremendous views up towards the Gamskogel and other peaks. It was virtually walking distance from our hotel, just across the valley floor, but had its own car park with toilet. A hot day seemed likely, so we started early as the morning sun hit the crag casting long shadows over the wet meadows, cow bells the only sound. Our chosen starting point was a side slab, with three overlapping slabs, all quite distinct, with the top one jutting out over a steeper wall. Captain Hook took the full height and gave a pleasant VS pitch, delicate climbing interspersed by the odd steeper move over each bulge. Vic led the similar but shorter line to the left, and two easier routes further right completed the fun. After this little warm up, it was already too hot to climb in the sun so we found a shady west-facing nook further left where I led Baker Street, an excellent HVS/f5c pitch up a steep wall of grey granite. It looked slightly smooth and polished from below, but wasn't really: it took an obvious line of weakness up the steep wall, a diagonal line of jugs leading towards the left-hand arete, then weaving right taking a further line of positive cracks up the steeper headwall. Great pitch, although bettered by Vic's lead of Grisu at f6a+. This took a direct line up that left-hand arete and gave superb climbing. A thin but positive flake crack right on the edge of the arete gave steep, dynamic moves up to a rest. Then an intermittent crack system with some interesting jamming led to the top via more fine climbing direct up the edge of the arete: excellent pitch. Further left, back in the sunshine, I led the classic corner line of Loreley - which felt like a traditional British VS. An obvious, strong line with some surprisingly awkward bridging and steep moves higher up. Loschaktion, immediately right, was a distinct contrast, taking a clean and delicate slab via some surprisingly technical moves on small holds and foot smears. Both quite stiff leads for the grade. Wasserklang was the worst pitch of the trip: something of a sandbag with me tiring after a bad night's sleep. A very steep start up an overhanging wall led to two thrutchy and steep grooves: awkward and disjointed, but close to a picturesque waterfall, as its name suggests. I flailed clumsily up this, with fading forearms, but was revived by the terrific corner of Lausbubenverschneidung (scallywag's corner!), a great f6a led by Vic, taking a very obvious clean corner direct up the high face at the left of the crag. Easy climbing low down leads to a superb textbook layback crack. Great moves up this to a high jug, before a pulsating finish taking the steepening finger crack in the corner. The crux comes right at the top: a layaway and very long reach for a flat finishing hold. With regret, we called it a day after 10 routes and headed up the valley for a late lunch before driving up to Vent at the end of the Otztal. From here, we got the chairlift to Stablein, then enjoyed a wonderful relaxed walk-in over the dramatic Rofenbach to the Breslauer Hut in great weather. Another superb hut, more traditional and crowded than the Amberger, with us in a small wooden room with great views. We refuelled with goulash, spatzle, gruner veltliner, blaufrankisch and other delights.
Wednesday, September 07, 2016
Schrankogel
Peak: Schrankogel (3497m/11473ft)
Route: East Ridge (PD)
Area: Stubai Alps, Austria
Rather high for an acclimatisation peak, but the Schrankogel is a superb mountain that had the added advantage of getting us into the heart of the Stubai Alps before our planned ascent of the higher Wildspitze in the Otztal Alps later in the week. The two ranges are quite distinct, although both can be accessed from the main Otztal valley. We spent the night in the splendid Amberger Hut, which was wonderful in the way that only Austrian huts can be, and enjoyed a relative lie-in before breakfast at 6am. Fresh snow had fallen above 3000m so we packed a short rope as precaution, although I wore approach shoes throughout as there is no glacier to cross on this route. We moved up the broad and magnificent Sulztal valley, almost Himalayan in feel at this point, with the Sulztalferner glacier sunlit above. The sun had yet to reach us, and we made rapid progress up the side valley of the Schwarzenberg to the east. A steep ascent led to a superb path on top of a moraine which gave a wonderful mile or so of walking, as the sun began to light up the Mutterberger Seespitze and Schwarzenbergspitze across the valley. In the dim morning light, with a fallen signpost, I failed to spot the line of the normal route going up the south-west ridge. This was no bad thing, however, as the moraine path was truly wonderful and took us up to the Schwarzenberg glacier high above. Some rubbly material at the top of the moraine, dusty, steep and arduous for a while. Above, however, we arrived at a plateau with the east ridge towering above: clearly a much better and more interesting option than the normal route, plastered with a good few inches of fresh snow. The weather was absolutely superb: deep blue cloudless sky and crystal clarity in all directions. We were both going at our own pace, so I set off for the main ridge, enjoying the more solid slabby rock. The snow made things trickier in places, but there were no real difficulties: it was rather like a giant Crib Goch. The ridge tapers constantly until it becomes more exposed as the summit cross comes into view. The final section is quite narrow with a few awkward steps but leads quickly and directly to the summit (2.50 from the hut). The amazing and unusual clarity of light made this one of the best views I have ever had in the Alps, or anywhere. I shared the summit with a chap from Bavaria who helped me with some of the unfamiliar peaks. Close at hand, the pyramidal Schrandele, Zuckerhutl and Wilde Leck impressed, but the Schrankogel is so prominent that it is the highest point for miles around, so the main feeling was one of distant views stretching right across the Alps, from the Todi and Silvretta to the Gross Venediger and the distant Dolomites. The Wildspitze dominated the view to the south-west: a beautiful summit. I spent a long time gazing at the view until Vic arrived, and we eventually tore ourself away for the descent. This was awkward, long and tiring, and I was a tad annoyed that I'd failed to realise the obvious traverse option. But the moraine was equally good in descent and the sun-drenched Sulztal a wonderful place to linger as we neared the hut. Sadly, we'd run out of money, so had to scamper back to the car in Gries before a surprisingly lengthy hunt for valley accommodation in Langenfeld. We got it sorted in the end, however, and a fine meal of wild mushroom soup, Tyrol lamb and rosti restored some of the lost calories.
Route: East Ridge (PD)
Area: Stubai Alps, Austria
Rather high for an acclimatisation peak, but the Schrankogel is a superb mountain that had the added advantage of getting us into the heart of the Stubai Alps before our planned ascent of the higher Wildspitze in the Otztal Alps later in the week. The two ranges are quite distinct, although both can be accessed from the main Otztal valley. We spent the night in the splendid Amberger Hut, which was wonderful in the way that only Austrian huts can be, and enjoyed a relative lie-in before breakfast at 6am. Fresh snow had fallen above 3000m so we packed a short rope as precaution, although I wore approach shoes throughout as there is no glacier to cross on this route. We moved up the broad and magnificent Sulztal valley, almost Himalayan in feel at this point, with the Sulztalferner glacier sunlit above. The sun had yet to reach us, and we made rapid progress up the side valley of the Schwarzenberg to the east. A steep ascent led to a superb path on top of a moraine which gave a wonderful mile or so of walking, as the sun began to light up the Mutterberger Seespitze and Schwarzenbergspitze across the valley. In the dim morning light, with a fallen signpost, I failed to spot the line of the normal route going up the south-west ridge. This was no bad thing, however, as the moraine path was truly wonderful and took us up to the Schwarzenberg glacier high above. Some rubbly material at the top of the moraine, dusty, steep and arduous for a while. Above, however, we arrived at a plateau with the east ridge towering above: clearly a much better and more interesting option than the normal route, plastered with a good few inches of fresh snow. The weather was absolutely superb: deep blue cloudless sky and crystal clarity in all directions. We were both going at our own pace, so I set off for the main ridge, enjoying the more solid slabby rock. The snow made things trickier in places, but there were no real difficulties: it was rather like a giant Crib Goch. The ridge tapers constantly until it becomes more exposed as the summit cross comes into view. The final section is quite narrow with a few awkward steps but leads quickly and directly to the summit (2.50 from the hut). The amazing and unusual clarity of light made this one of the best views I have ever had in the Alps, or anywhere. I shared the summit with a chap from Bavaria who helped me with some of the unfamiliar peaks. Close at hand, the pyramidal Schrandele, Zuckerhutl and Wilde Leck impressed, but the Schrankogel is so prominent that it is the highest point for miles around, so the main feeling was one of distant views stretching right across the Alps, from the Todi and Silvretta to the Gross Venediger and the distant Dolomites. The Wildspitze dominated the view to the south-west: a beautiful summit. I spent a long time gazing at the view until Vic arrived, and we eventually tore ourself away for the descent. This was awkward, long and tiring, and I was a tad annoyed that I'd failed to realise the obvious traverse option. But the moraine was equally good in descent and the sun-drenched Sulztal a wonderful place to linger as we neared the hut. Sadly, we'd run out of money, so had to scamper back to the car in Gries before a surprisingly lengthy hunt for valley accommodation in Langenfeld. We got it sorted in the end, however, and a fine meal of wild mushroom soup, Tyrol lamb and rosti restored some of the lost calories.
Tuesday, September 06, 2016
Oetz climbing
Crag: Oetz (Otztal, Tyrol, Austria)
Routes: Rampe (u6-/f5b:sec), Rechte Wand (u6/f5c:led), Mittlere Wand (u5/f5a:sec), Linke Wand (f6a:sec), Kante (u6/f5c:led)
After my morning jog up Kofel, we headed straight for the Otztal in improving weather. The plan was to walk in to the Amberger hut around 4pm, but over a late lunch in Oetz I spied what looked like a roadside crag. We immediately revised our plans to squeeze a brief climbing session in, and it worked perfectly - particularly after being rained off the crags this morning. Oetz is an unusual crag, right next to a busy road and immediately above an industrial wood processing plant: not the most tranquil venue! Oetz itself is at the head of the Otztal, our proposed 'home valley' and is surrounded by mountains. The routes were good: around 20m high on excellent solid granite, all well bolted and highly convenient. Our time was very limited so it could hardly have been more suitable. Rampe was a good line up an inset slab to a steep final wall, which is replete with sharp holds and much easier than it looks. I then moved to the slabby wall immediately right, a fine sweep of granite, and led the arete line of Rechte Wand. This was a good route, quite delicate in places, with crisp moves low down giving access to the juggy arete with a tricky move to finish on small holds. Slightly overgraded, not noticeably harder than the 5a line to its left. Vic led the Linke, which gave more technical climbing to a steep finish on awkward side pulls and unhelpful holds. Finally, I just had time to bag another arete line: this time Kante, which takes the edge of the Rampe slab. This was nice but overgraded: nowhere near f5c, it felt like a two star British Severe with lovely flowing moves on positive holds in a nice position on the edge. We packed the gear away quickly and headed up the valley to the elevated hamlet of Gries above Langenfeld, where we enjoyed a delightful walk-in to the Amberger Hut. A great start to the trip, varied and productive, particularly after heavy rain this morning. It improved further as we arrived at the hut with eight minutes to spare before dinner, by pure fluke. A three course meal, with a vast amount of meat, followed by beer and schnapps to ease digestion and prepare us for the Schrankogel tomorrow.
Routes: Rampe (u6-/f5b:sec), Rechte Wand (u6/f5c:led), Mittlere Wand (u5/f5a:sec), Linke Wand (f6a:sec), Kante (u6/f5c:led)
After my morning jog up Kofel, we headed straight for the Otztal in improving weather. The plan was to walk in to the Amberger hut around 4pm, but over a late lunch in Oetz I spied what looked like a roadside crag. We immediately revised our plans to squeeze a brief climbing session in, and it worked perfectly - particularly after being rained off the crags this morning. Oetz is an unusual crag, right next to a busy road and immediately above an industrial wood processing plant: not the most tranquil venue! Oetz itself is at the head of the Otztal, our proposed 'home valley' and is surrounded by mountains. The routes were good: around 20m high on excellent solid granite, all well bolted and highly convenient. Our time was very limited so it could hardly have been more suitable. Rampe was a good line up an inset slab to a steep final wall, which is replete with sharp holds and much easier than it looks. I then moved to the slabby wall immediately right, a fine sweep of granite, and led the arete line of Rechte Wand. This was a good route, quite delicate in places, with crisp moves low down giving access to the juggy arete with a tricky move to finish on small holds. Slightly overgraded, not noticeably harder than the 5a line to its left. Vic led the Linke, which gave more technical climbing to a steep finish on awkward side pulls and unhelpful holds. Finally, I just had time to bag another arete line: this time Kante, which takes the edge of the Rampe slab. This was nice but overgraded: nowhere near f5c, it felt like a two star British Severe with lovely flowing moves on positive holds in a nice position on the edge. We packed the gear away quickly and headed up the valley to the elevated hamlet of Gries above Langenfeld, where we enjoyed a delightful walk-in to the Amberger Hut. A great start to the trip, varied and productive, particularly after heavy rain this morning. It improved further as we arrived at the hut with eight minutes to spare before dinner, by pure fluke. A three course meal, with a vast amount of meat, followed by beer and schnapps to ease digestion and prepare us for the Schrankogel tomorrow.
Kofel
Peak: Kofel (1342m/4403ft)
Area: Ammergau Alps, Germany
Although its dimensions are small, the sharp limestone spire of the Kofel is very much the signature peak of the famous Bavarian town of Oberammagau. It made an ideal short outing this morning, as our Alpine trip got off to a soggy start and Sunday's long race was still in my legs. Vic had some things to sort out, so I set off alone from our excellent pension near the station in the middle of town, jogging along the river in the rain as the limestone spire of Kofel intermittently emerged from the mist directly above. An Alpine meadow lies above the car park and leads to broad zigzags as the forest is reached. Dank and atmospheric in these conditions: I had it virtually to myself, unsurprisingly. The forest was wreathed in mist and the zigzags gave good running up to the Kofelsattel, an obvious col below the final summit spire. A short level path leads to the spire (the Kofelsteig), which is a polished limestone scramble, easy and replete with chains. A short traverse leads to stepped rock, then a slabby open groove to the summit (less than an hour from the hotel). A brief clearance gave views of Ettal and I could hear cowbells below, but most of the time the Bavarian landscape was obscured by low cloud. It stopped raining, at least, and I jogged down under dripping trees with some spectacular clearances as I neared the bottom of the forest. We abandoned plans to climb nearby, and headed instead into Austria, over the Fernpass and a late lunch in Oetz as the weather began to gradually improve.
Area: Ammergau Alps, Germany
Although its dimensions are small, the sharp limestone spire of the Kofel is very much the signature peak of the famous Bavarian town of Oberammagau. It made an ideal short outing this morning, as our Alpine trip got off to a soggy start and Sunday's long race was still in my legs. Vic had some things to sort out, so I set off alone from our excellent pension near the station in the middle of town, jogging along the river in the rain as the limestone spire of Kofel intermittently emerged from the mist directly above. An Alpine meadow lies above the car park and leads to broad zigzags as the forest is reached. Dank and atmospheric in these conditions: I had it virtually to myself, unsurprisingly. The forest was wreathed in mist and the zigzags gave good running up to the Kofelsattel, an obvious col below the final summit spire. A short level path leads to the spire (the Kofelsteig), which is a polished limestone scramble, easy and replete with chains. A short traverse leads to stepped rock, then a slabby open groove to the summit (less than an hour from the hotel). A brief clearance gave views of Ettal and I could hear cowbells below, but most of the time the Bavarian landscape was obscured by low cloud. It stopped raining, at least, and I jogged down under dripping trees with some spectacular clearances as I neared the bottom of the forest. We abandoned plans to climb nearby, and headed instead into Austria, over the Fernpass and a late lunch in Oetz as the weather began to gradually improve.
Sunday, September 04, 2016
Stretton Skyline
Race: Stretton Skyline (31km/4500ft)
Time/Position: 3.33.46 (40th from 79)
Multiple races going on this weekend, and it was a little tricky to decide on the best choice. Caernarfon 10k would have been a more sensible option, but, mindful of the forthcoming Mourne Mountain Marathon I thought it might be a good idea to return to the Stretton Skyline for the first time since 2009. It emphatically was not, and I limped home a staggering 33 minutes slower than seven years ago! Having said that, it was at least a sociable option and I enjoyed the day (most of it anyway). It began well, jogging up from Carding Mill Valley with Peter and running with him along to Pole Bank at the top of the Long Mynd. The descent to the road is glorious, and well remembered from 2009: a sweeping series of ridge tracks and contouring paths leads to the village of Little Stretton. The steep climb up Ragleth that follows is probably the hardest climb on the race, but I felt reasonably fresh at this point and overtook a few runners towards the top. Great running on the ridge towards Caradoc before the descent. Here, things started to go wrong! Seven years is a long time, and I couldn't remember the best route down to the next checkpoint in Church Stretton. I took the left-hand path through the woods, which takes much longer, and was passed by at least ten runners, ending up behind a big group as I started the climb up Caer Caradoc. This was rather demoralising, but worse was to follow as I began to lose energy on Caradoc. A few slices of fudge didn't help much, and the rest of the day was a real struggle, the first time I have really suffered on a long fell race for a good few years. The descent from Caradoc to the Lawley gave some respite, and takes in some delightful countryside, but the long out and back to the Lawley was slow again. Returning to the A49, I knew what lay ahead: the climax of the race up the never-ending Motts Road back to the top of the Long Mynd. With good legs, this gentle gradient can be run efficiently. Drained of energy, it is a bit of a nightmare and I lost at least 15 places as I limped up the gentle slopes, literally walking most of the descent back down Carding Mill Valley to the finish in Church Stretton. Shame not to do this great race justice: not sure what the problem was, so will have to use the feeble excuse of a bad night's sleep!
Time/Position: 3.33.46 (40th from 79)
Multiple races going on this weekend, and it was a little tricky to decide on the best choice. Caernarfon 10k would have been a more sensible option, but, mindful of the forthcoming Mourne Mountain Marathon I thought it might be a good idea to return to the Stretton Skyline for the first time since 2009. It emphatically was not, and I limped home a staggering 33 minutes slower than seven years ago! Having said that, it was at least a sociable option and I enjoyed the day (most of it anyway). It began well, jogging up from Carding Mill Valley with Peter and running with him along to Pole Bank at the top of the Long Mynd. The descent to the road is glorious, and well remembered from 2009: a sweeping series of ridge tracks and contouring paths leads to the village of Little Stretton. The steep climb up Ragleth that follows is probably the hardest climb on the race, but I felt reasonably fresh at this point and overtook a few runners towards the top. Great running on the ridge towards Caradoc before the descent. Here, things started to go wrong! Seven years is a long time, and I couldn't remember the best route down to the next checkpoint in Church Stretton. I took the left-hand path through the woods, which takes much longer, and was passed by at least ten runners, ending up behind a big group as I started the climb up Caer Caradoc. This was rather demoralising, but worse was to follow as I began to lose energy on Caradoc. A few slices of fudge didn't help much, and the rest of the day was a real struggle, the first time I have really suffered on a long fell race for a good few years. The descent from Caradoc to the Lawley gave some respite, and takes in some delightful countryside, but the long out and back to the Lawley was slow again. Returning to the A49, I knew what lay ahead: the climax of the race up the never-ending Motts Road back to the top of the Long Mynd. With good legs, this gentle gradient can be run efficiently. Drained of energy, it is a bit of a nightmare and I lost at least 15 places as I limped up the gentle slopes, literally walking most of the descent back down Carding Mill Valley to the finish in Church Stretton. Shame not to do this great race justice: not sure what the problem was, so will have to use the feeble excuse of a bad night's sleep!
Thursday, September 01, 2016
Elidir Fawr race
Race: Ras Elidir Fawr (5m/3000ft)
Time/Position: 1.09.44 (11th from 48)
An exhilarating, classic horseshoe, staged during the last couple of hours of daylight on a September evening: all rather memorable. As with the Cnicht race on Saturday, this is one of very few Welsh mountain races that I've never done. I think it has been absent from the calendar from time to time, but staging it in the evening at this time of year seems like a great idea. The climb is, of course, pretty hard: familiar to most people because of the standard Welsh 3000s route. Although there are some short sections of respite, they are very short and in essence it's a continuous 3000ft slog from the village of Nant Peris. I didn't feel especially sharp after an afternoon of constant slate climbing, although a tailwind helped in places. Some rain, and mist playing round the summit, which I reached in 40 minutes. The descent is familiar from Pedol Peris: steep, rocky and technical initially, then a few grassy sections allow for quicker running until the path begins to contour round the top of Cwm Dudodyn below Foel Goch. The long, looping descent is absolutely superb: reminding me a bit of the Waun Fach race. Very fast, into a headwind with the light beginning to fade and mist swirling around Crib Goch and Cwm Glas across the Pass. I picked up a few places, then the route follows the spur on the opposite side of Cwm Dudodyn (indeed, it is perhaps more accurate to describe the race as the Dudodyn horseshoe). This gets rocky at the end of the spur, then steep and fast down to the cwm and back to Nant Peris. Across the river, then across a field to the finish for bara brith. Later, a pint and a good meal in the Faenol Arms rounded off an excellent evening: an appropriate start to what will be a busy September.
Time/Position: 1.09.44 (11th from 48)
An exhilarating, classic horseshoe, staged during the last couple of hours of daylight on a September evening: all rather memorable. As with the Cnicht race on Saturday, this is one of very few Welsh mountain races that I've never done. I think it has been absent from the calendar from time to time, but staging it in the evening at this time of year seems like a great idea. The climb is, of course, pretty hard: familiar to most people because of the standard Welsh 3000s route. Although there are some short sections of respite, they are very short and in essence it's a continuous 3000ft slog from the village of Nant Peris. I didn't feel especially sharp after an afternoon of constant slate climbing, although a tailwind helped in places. Some rain, and mist playing round the summit, which I reached in 40 minutes. The descent is familiar from Pedol Peris: steep, rocky and technical initially, then a few grassy sections allow for quicker running until the path begins to contour round the top of Cwm Dudodyn below Foel Goch. The long, looping descent is absolutely superb: reminding me a bit of the Waun Fach race. Very fast, into a headwind with the light beginning to fade and mist swirling around Crib Goch and Cwm Glas across the Pass. I picked up a few places, then the route follows the spur on the opposite side of Cwm Dudodyn (indeed, it is perhaps more accurate to describe the race as the Dudodyn horseshoe). This gets rocky at the end of the spur, then steep and fast down to the cwm and back to Nant Peris. Across the river, then across a field to the finish for bara brith. Later, a pint and a good meal in the Faenol Arms rounded off an excellent evening: an appropriate start to what will be a busy September.
Llanberis slate climbing
Crag: Never Never Land, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Titan (f4c:led), Zeus (f6a+:led), Operation Zig Zag (f5c:sec), The Gargoyle (f6a+:led), Octogenarian (f5b:sec), Learning to Fly (f5a:sec), Fresh Air (f6a:sec)
I like to have at least one session on slate each year and, when I do, always think I should go more often as I really enjoy it as a climbing medium. We were planning to combine a few slate climbs with the Elidir Fawr race this evening, so were quite late setting off in the afternoon. We headed from Dinorwig down to the brilliantly named Medusa's Lair: an enclosed gorge of slate right of the main Never Never Land slab. This sheltered us from some of the wind, but it remained cold, cloudy and windy all day. We all led the easy but worthwhile Titan as a warm-up: this takes a series of well defined grooves on the right of the wall. I then led Zeus at 6a+, a good route deserving a star. Steeper than the average low grade slate climb, some nice crisp moves lead up the wall to a pronounced crux. I initially attempted this to the left up tenuous smears before moving right where a few pulls on small holds gain a huge jug and easy climbing to the finish. Slightly soft for the grade but the grading here is at least more accurate than some of the absurdly overgraded new routes nearby. Mick then led a rather scruffy route, supposedly 5c, up the blunt arete of dolerite which leads to a slab. This was pleasant enough but massively overgraded: it would be 4 in Provence. Emerging from the gorge, I led The Gargoyle, also at f6a+. This is an interesting and varied route, slightly unnerving in places. It takes an easy slab to good moves left round the obvious arete before a very sharp and balancey crux move to gain the 'gargoyle', a jutting piece of slate below a hanging groove. The expected jug isn't there, so pinch holds and a high step are needed to straddle the feature (a novel and vaguely alarming move) and pull up into the groove. It remains awkward above, but not hard. Mick led two simple routes on the main face, both massively overgraded (really f4) and Vic finished with the pleasant detached slab of Fresh Air, which I've led a couple of times before. We just had time for the dash down to Nant Peris and a coffee before the second part of the afternoon began.
Routes: Titan (f4c:led), Zeus (f6a+:led), Operation Zig Zag (f5c:sec), The Gargoyle (f6a+:led), Octogenarian (f5b:sec), Learning to Fly (f5a:sec), Fresh Air (f6a:sec)
I like to have at least one session on slate each year and, when I do, always think I should go more often as I really enjoy it as a climbing medium. We were planning to combine a few slate climbs with the Elidir Fawr race this evening, so were quite late setting off in the afternoon. We headed from Dinorwig down to the brilliantly named Medusa's Lair: an enclosed gorge of slate right of the main Never Never Land slab. This sheltered us from some of the wind, but it remained cold, cloudy and windy all day. We all led the easy but worthwhile Titan as a warm-up: this takes a series of well defined grooves on the right of the wall. I then led Zeus at 6a+, a good route deserving a star. Steeper than the average low grade slate climb, some nice crisp moves lead up the wall to a pronounced crux. I initially attempted this to the left up tenuous smears before moving right where a few pulls on small holds gain a huge jug and easy climbing to the finish. Slightly soft for the grade but the grading here is at least more accurate than some of the absurdly overgraded new routes nearby. Mick then led a rather scruffy route, supposedly 5c, up the blunt arete of dolerite which leads to a slab. This was pleasant enough but massively overgraded: it would be 4 in Provence. Emerging from the gorge, I led The Gargoyle, also at f6a+. This is an interesting and varied route, slightly unnerving in places. It takes an easy slab to good moves left round the obvious arete before a very sharp and balancey crux move to gain the 'gargoyle', a jutting piece of slate below a hanging groove. The expected jug isn't there, so pinch holds and a high step are needed to straddle the feature (a novel and vaguely alarming move) and pull up into the groove. It remains awkward above, but not hard. Mick led two simple routes on the main face, both massively overgraded (really f4) and Vic finished with the pleasant detached slab of Fresh Air, which I've led a couple of times before. We just had time for the dash down to Nant Peris and a coffee before the second part of the afternoon began.
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