Oetz climbing

Crag: Oetz (Otztal, Tyrol, Austria)
Routes: Rampe (u6-/f5b:sec), Rechte Wand (u6/f5c:led), Mittlere Wand (u5/f5a:sec), Linke Wand (f6a:sec), Kante (u6/f5c:led)
After my morning jog up Kofel, we headed straight for the Otztal in improving weather. The plan was to walk in to the Amberger hut around 4pm, but over a late lunch in Oetz I spied what looked like a roadside crag. We immediately revised our plans to squeeze a brief climbing session in, and it worked perfectly - particularly after being rained off the crags this morning. Oetz is an unusual crag, right next to a busy road and immediately above an industrial wood processing plant: not the most tranquil venue! Oetz itself is at the head of the Otztal, our proposed 'home valley' and is surrounded by mountains. The routes were good: around 20m high on excellent solid granite, all well bolted and highly convenient. Our time was very limited so it could hardly have been more suitable. Rampe was a good line up an inset slab to a steep final wall, which is replete with sharp holds and much easier than it looks. I then moved to the slabby wall immediately right, a fine sweep of granite, and led the arete line of Rechte Wand. This was a good route, quite delicate in places, with crisp moves low down giving access to the juggy arete with a tricky move to finish on small holds. Slightly overgraded, not noticeably harder than the 5a line to its left. Vic led the Linke, which gave more technical climbing to a steep finish on awkward side pulls and unhelpful holds. Finally, I just had time to bag another arete line: this time Kante, which takes the edge of the Rampe slab. This was nice but overgraded: nowhere near f5c, it felt like a two star British Severe with lovely flowing moves on positive holds in a nice position on the edge. We packed the gear away quickly and headed up the valley to the elevated hamlet of Gries above Langenfeld, where we enjoyed a delightful walk-in to the Amberger Hut. A great start to the trip, varied and productive, particularly after heavy rain this morning. It improved further as we arrived at the hut with eight minutes to spare before dinner, by pure fluke. A three course meal, with a vast amount of meat, followed by beer and schnapps to ease digestion and prepare us for the Schrankogel tomorrow.