Trevor climbing

Crag: Trevor Rocks, Eglwyseg
Routes: Disappearing Act (f5a:led), Clue, So (f4c:led), Suspect Device (f6a+:led), Innocence (f5c:led), Crime Scene (f6b:sec)
Cold winds and drizzle threatening: a familiar scene as I arrived direct from work for a brief late season session. After failing on the crux of the horrible No Remittal, with greasy rock and numb hands up an apparent one-armed mantel move, I led up the f5 corner done numerous times before. The easy arete to its right (Clue, So) is perhaps the most climbed route in the entire area: I remember doing it when it was first bolted over 10 years ago, and thinking it quite pleasant by the standards of British limestone. It is now polished to a high sheen, an illustration of the paucity of such routes locally. Much better was Suspect Device, which allowed me to salvage some pride after failing on the baffling mantel further right. This went easily up to the break, then a hard move on small but distinct holds allows a high step on to the nice upper wall - this is rough and textured, and gives good climbing. The rain started in earnest as I set out up the 6b of Crime Scene. By the time I reached the crux, it was wet, so I switched to the top part of Innocence, two grades easier but still tricky in the wet. We both seconded the 6b, enjoying its technicalities despite the wet and cold: autumn has well and truly arrived.