Cwm Cneifion winter climbs

Crag: Cwm Cneifion/Idwal
Routes: Nameless Stream (wIII:sol), Cneifion Stream (wIII:sec/sol)
On the one hand, this was unlucky: several days of superb conditions with some very rarely formed routes up for grabs ended just before we arrived at Ogwen in low cloud and driving rain. On the other hand, we salvaged the only morsels realistically achieveable in the few hours available. We didn't arrive until lunchtime, by which time the rain was hammering down and the snow around Idwal melting very rapidly: temperatures had climbed to 5C and looked set to rise further, not promising. All the water-ice lines had formed around Idwal - the snow in Ogwen had remained light (in contrast to the Clwydians) and unconsolidated throughout the cold snap associated with the 'Beast from the East'. However, they were all rapidly melting and looked grim, so we felt that Cwm Cneifion would give us the best chance of salvaging something, as it often does. Taking the steep path up, we decided to look at the lower Nameless Stream which seemed to be quite fat from a distance (the stream which drops to Idwal from the lip of Cwm Cneifion). This was a great decision as despite some meltiness, it remained very well formed water-ice and gave a splendid route up into the upper cwm. Even better, I don't think I've ever done it before (although I could be wrong, it did seem vaguely familiar). Some surprisingly steep rises and an excellent section of snow ice up a curved runnel towards the top. The turf was well frozen too: a fine grade III watercourse in surprisingly good nick, and a fun way into the upper cwm. As usual, Cwm Cneifion itself was another world - the driving rain gave way to snow and the upper cwm was white and thick. Lower down, we did the excellent icefall marking the start of the Cneifion Stream. Dave led a nice 30m pitch which took three seperate steps of good grade III ice, more solid than the lower route. We then continued up another pitch, easier and slabby and walked into the always atmospheric upper cwm as heavy snow fell and Clogwyn Du was barely visible through the thick mist. A very wet descent back to Ogwen ensued: pouring rain lower down combined with the snowmelt.