Dyserth climbing

Crag: Dyserth Castle Slab
Routes: Tegeingl (f5+:led), The Purple Ladies (f6a:sec), Llewellyn ap Gruffydd to Neil Crud (f6a+:led), Jason and the Aga Nuts (f5a:sec), Leo Saw us Rex (f4:sec)
Crag: Ty Newydd
Routes: Madasafish (f5+:led), Wild Garlic (f6b:led)
An unusually long winter, so it was very welcome to have some sunshine this morning: birdsong and warmth on this sheltered and south-facing crag. I've done all the routes before, so we just used it as a shakedown before I upped the grade slightly for the 6a+ up the vague arete on the left: nicely delicate and an absorbing, enjoyable pitch. Steve led a couple of easy routes, and we then tried to find Ty Newydd, a new venue for me despite its location. It is uncompromisingly steep, hidden in a tight green valley of wild garlic. After a short 5+ warm-up, I led the scruffy Wild Garlic at an awkward 6b, which takes a dirty wall to hard moves round a bulge. Then came some unforecast rain and it was back to normal again.