Ogwen circuit

Peaks: Pen yr Helgi Du, Pen Llithrig y Wrach, Gallt yr Ogof
Area: Carneddau/Glyderau, Eryri
A slightly eccentric impromptu horseshoe. The intention had been to reccie the Hebog/Nantlle leg of Paddy, but torrential rain along the A55 dissipated those plans. Instead, we adapted, and parked at the end of the steep tarmac road that gives access to Llugwy and Bwlch Eryl Farchog. This is fine in any weather, a quick running route into the hills. And by the time we'd reached the bwlch, very quickly from Ogwen, the weather began to clear with mist peeling off the ridge to Helgi Du. We ran up this, still before 9am, and straight over the other side towards Pen Llithrig. I was last here over Christmas with my 'hard way up' from Tal y Bont. We were all enjoying ourselves now, and decided to extend the day by descending to Capel Curig (quite complex to find the best line on the top part of this descent, and part of the Paddy route of course). At Capel, I discovered I'd dropped my food! My companions fed me, and we then embarked on the very long and trackless climb up Gallt yr Ogof. Good running up the old Miners Track initially, then into the bowl below the Red Slab, contouring up to gain the summit in foul weather. It was now as cold and wet as it had been when we started, so we pelted down to Gwern y Gof Isaf and the car, in time for lunch.

Ras y Moelwyn

Race: Moelwyn fell race (10m+/3200ft/AM)
Peaks: Moelwyn Mawr, Craigysgafn, Moelwyn Bach, Moel yr Hydd
Time/Position: 1.50.50 (88th from 280)
I was amazed to discover that it has been a decade since I last did this excellent race. I can only think that is because it tends to clash with London. This year, however, it was run a month later as a British championship race, and as such the sense of occasion and place in this most distinctive and interesting of towns was ramped up a bit. I have a bit of a connection with Blaenau, so really enjoyed the special start from Rawson Square, in front of Ty Gorsaf in the middle of town with all the peaks just emerging from the clag and visible from the start: a brilliant touch. Then came a fast start through the streets of Blaenau, before dropping down to the rugby club and making our way onto the open hill over the railway. Then comes a long but gradual climb up to Cwm Orthin, which I remembered well from last time, passing below the crags of Tan y Grisiau, a favourite climbing area for me. I kept a steady pace going, albeit slow given current training regime, until the final steep climb up the northern ridge of Moelwyn Mawr. The mist was down, and it was quite cold and clammy on the summit. Even with 300 runners, the route over Craigysgafn was not all that obvious in terms of the quickest line - and I certainly didn't get it. The climb up Moelwyn Bach is quick, however. In the mist, I had no memory of the onward route: I plunged leftwards down the gully initially, slightly unsure, then prevaricated with a poor onward route, too far right initially, then too far left, before emerging from the mist above Llyn Stwlan, where the checkpoint was. The race used to head across the dam and up Moel yr Hydd, but today went backwards, up the side of Moelwyn Bach again, to join a superb contouring slate path to the col (others took a better line further right). Given current distance, I found the final climb up Moel yr Hydd fairly comfortable, and the mist then cleared for the tricky descent down the broad boggy and rocky gully back to Cwm Orthin before a long and weaving finish with small extra climbs. I finished at the rugby club 15 minutes down on my 2009 time, although a fair portion of this must be due to the extended route - at least that's what I'm telling myself!

Maeshafn climbing

Crag: Maeshafn
Routes: Puppy Power (VS 4b:led), The Bulger (HVS 5b:sec), Bulger variant (VS 4c:sec), Sling  variant (VS 4c:sec), Little Finger Jam variant (HVS:sec)
The usual brief pre-Collie outing, although I did kick off with a lead of the slabby VS Puppy Power, done numerous times before. This is briefly delicate for a few moves, before an easy finish on big holds. We then moved round to the Amphitheatre, where we set up a top-rope for more routes done many times before. The Bulger, and its variants, are much easier than Little Finger Jam, which has always had a desperate start (UK 5c+?) and is even more polished these days.

Ogwen climbing

Crags: Clogwyn Bochlwyd/Craig Caseg Fraith Isaf, Ogwen
Routes: Marble Slab (HS 4b:led), Arete and Slab (D:sec), Two Pitch Route Direct (S 4a:led), A5 (HS:sec), Grug (S:led), Canol (HVS 5a:sec), Bulge (VS 5a:sec)
Having dragged Steve to the obscure and vegetated Craig Rhiwarth earlier this month, I felt a conservative choice was in order for this brief late afternoon outing. Bochlwyd fitted the bill, and I kicked off with a route I last did in the early 90s. Marble Slab is short, but delightful, with its twin cracks leading to a well-protected but committing move around an overlap, before delicate slab climbing with good wires leads to a ledge and easier climbing up the right-hand arete. Due to a lifetime taking detailed notes, I later discovered that Tim led this all those years ago, not me! So it was nice to lead it today. Steve then did the Diff to the right of the crag, and I led a direct version of Two Pitch Route. I did something similar last year, taking the groove on the left, then leading direct to the top in one, without traversing left. This takes slightly messier terrain right of the crack: a touch harder than the normal route. The weather had been a little cold and cloudy, but now began to clear beautifully to fluffy clouds and warmish sunshine. We drove round to the little crag above Gwern Gof Uchaf. Steve led the rather awkward A5, which takes a left-slanting crack with a tricky move or two. My lead, Grug, was not great: slightly green closed cracks to a ledge, then more dirty climbing up cracks to a tree. Small wires and small cams needed, mildly disconcerting. We finished off with rope above, using the excuse of excessive polish. Canol is easier than Bulge, despite their respective grades. It climbs delicately to a ledge on rounded holds, then a nice finger jamming crack to the top. Bulge is just a bit awkward, and very polished throughout. A late finish in which a beautiful evening developed, although a few light clouds remained.

Cuillin Ridge North-South (day two)

Peaks: Sgurr Dubh, Sgurr nan Eag, Sgurr a'Choire Bhig, Gars Bheinn
Area: Cuillin, Skye
Overnight, I began to regard this unconventional Cuillin traverse as perfectly calibrated Paddy Buckley training! If I am attuned to anything at present, it is fast walks up multiple climbs, so it was no real problem to be faced with the 3000ft re-ascent back to the ridge from the Glen Brittle hut. In fact, it was enjoyable - another stunning morning, the wind had dropped to a whispering breeze now and the temperature had climbed considerably. Conditions remained superb, though, and it was never too hot. From the hut, I jogged along Glen Brittle to the campsite, then up the Coire Lagan path until it splits. I descended this way last year, and was relishing the chance to revisit Coire a'Ghrunnda, which is one of Skye's finest cwms (although, unlike most of Skye - which feels utterly distinctive - to me Ghrunnda is reminiscent of the Maritime Alps). Staying left on the approach (it is a classic hanging valley) gives some fine scrambling on clean gabbro, as ever there are no easy ways up and the route-finding is never simple. It was early, and I was completely alone in this wonderful bowl of rock, with stunning views backwards across the sea to Rum. The far side is very bouldery and awkward but gives access to the main ridge fairly simply - the easier section below the TD gap that we visited last year. Sunny on the eastern side of the crest, and I romped along the rough sculpted rock, bypassing the tower on the ridge, Casteal a'Gharbh Choire, but then commencing on the scramble up Sgurr nan Eag too far left. This led to a steep wall, then exposed traversing right across slabs to a very steep groove - which I guessed would gain easier ground. Luckily, it did, and I followed the normal ascent route to the ridge crest at the top - with the summit some way along this to the south. It was a wonderful privilege to be up here alone in these conditions, and the remainder of the ridge to Gars Bheinn looks mouthwatering from Sgurr nan Eag. It is much more straightforward than the rest of the traverse, but still beautifully defined and starts with a steep descent on scree to a bealach, before grassy but steep scrambling leads back up to the fairly sharp crest of Sgurr a'Choire Bhig. From here, a joyous catwalk suspended above the sea leads along to the beautiful pyramid of Gars Bheinn. This entire section, alone, was memorable - stunning views down to Coruisk on the left, and the sea coming ever closer in front. Every step was a pleasure. My solitude was then interrupted by three Scousers, just embarking on the traverse from south to north having taken four hours to slog up Gars Bheinn. These were the only people I saw all day, however, and after rounding a shattered tower, I climbed up to the summit of Gars Bheinn and drank in the view, undoubtedly one of the best in the British Isles. The entire ridge back to Gillean dominates, of course, as does the sea directly below. It was one of those very special mountain moments - I sat there for half an hour drinking it all in. The reverie soon goes, however, with an unusually tough descent directly down the shifting scree that forms this peak - still, better down it than up it. Then comes the long but very pleasant trudge back along the remote territory marking this furthest stretch of the southern Cuillin, I was a bit tired, and stopped for water a few times. But it only took me 2.52 from the hut to Gars Bheinn, so I was moving much more quickly for this southerly section. I began to slow towards the end of the descent, however, and drove straight to Shiel Bridge for a wash in the river and a picnic lunch looking up at the Five Sisters.

Cuillin Ridge North-South (day one)

Peaks: Sgurr nan Gillean, Sgurr a' Fionn Choire, Bruach na Frithe, Sgurr na Bairnich, An Caisteal, Bidean Druim nan Ramh, Sgurr a'Mhadaidh, Sgurr a'Greadaidh, Sgurr Thormaid, Sgurr na Banachdich, Sgurr nan Gobhar
Routes: West Ridge Gillean (M), Druim nan Ramh Traverse (M), Four Tops Traverse Mhadaidh (D)
Area: Cuillin, Skye
An unconventional and not entirely legitimate Cuillin ridge traverse, which ended up as a considerably more physical, but less technical, two-day outing. Yet it was still a continuous linear journey from Sgurr nan Gillean to Gars Bheinn, and in that sense a privilege, as well as an unusually demanding version with over 3000ft of extra climbing. The night was windy, with gusty blasts rocking the van as I tried to sleep outside the Glen Brittle hut. As a result, I missed my alarm and was dozing (assuming the day was off) when Simon knocked on the door of the van! As a result I had about 10 minutes to prepare for a day some spend a lifetime preparing for. I wolfed down a bit of breakfast, threw some kit in my sac, and we were off to Sligachan, nearly 8am - far too late already. Vic imposed a 10 hour time limit on the attempt, which proved a tad ambitious. The main issue early on was the wind, a bitter northerly that blasted into us as we struggled up the 'tourist route' up Gillean. I last did this in pouring rain and thick mist with Gareth in the wet August of 1992! It is a very drawn out route, something of a slog, which curves round the base of Pinnacle Ridge (which we did last year - a far better way up), then finds a way through complex terrain to gain a bowl of rock and finally the upper south-east ridge which proves that the 'tourist' descriptor is something of a misnomer - it is pretty narrow and exposed. Very windy throughout, quite draining at times, and a shame so early on in the traverse. I found a way up solid slabs to the ridge, which avoided the scree but meant I lost contact with the other two until the summit, which is a spectacular spot - I often say it is the finest peak in the British Isles. After a bite, we got the harnesses on and descended the superb West Ridge. I missed the top section of this last year, so it was nice to do it in full - weaving down shelves and walls to pass through the 'window', a hole in the rock. It is interesting and fun throughout, and ends at Nicholson's chimney, which we abbed (as we did last year). We skirted Am Basteir, to save time, but I nipped up the scrambly traverse over Sgurr a'Fionn Choire by way of recompense, and because I hadn't done it before. It is quite a striking peak from some angles. From here, we moved very quickly over Bruach na Frithe - still very cold and windy - and then down the superb ridge which approaches the complex central section. Perhaps the best views of all are had from this section before An Caisteal - it gives good but non-technical scrambling and allows for quick progress until you reach the awkward gap below An Caisteal. We roped up and I led a short pitch to a grassy section, where we had lunch with great views into remote Harta Corrie, before heading up a slabby basalt groove to the top. Next up is Bidean Druim nan Ramh, perhaps the most complex section of the whole ridge, with three separate tops. The intricate detail is hard to recall, but there is a great deal of downclimbing, the occasional abseil, and some excellent hard scrambling. I suspect it is even more complex from north to south, as the route-finding is less obvious. A step over a deep gully sticks in the mind, as does a very exposed traverse above a lot of space near the final tower. Eventually, the angle eases and the ridge becomes broad and grassy for a short section before rearing up quite quickly towards Sgurr a'Mhadaidh. I'd been up the main summit of this peak before, freezing in a howling north-westerly gale in 2015. But the mountain has a lot more to offer - in fact, it has four separate summits and is another famously complex section of the ridge, particularly in this direction. The first two peaks are fairly easy, with simple downclimbs and excellent scrambling. Then things get more complicated and serious, with steep pitches and roped downclimbs before the descent of the final peak before the main summit - this is very steep indeed, indeed it looks quite outrageous at the grade from the other side. It gave absorbing scrambling to the final col, before a mini ridge leads to a step left onto exposed slabs which give access to the Mhadaidh summit ridge. Throughout this section, tremendous views straight down to Coruisk and Coire an Uaigneis. Light cloud blocked the sun for a while, although it stayed clear. We descended to An Dorus, a familiar spot to me now, a tiny breche which requires a few steep moves to leave on the Greadaidh side. We then kept too far left on the ridge up Greadaidh, having to retrace our steps to get on the right-hand side of the 'Wart' rock tower. Famously, the ridge between (and slightly beyond) the twin summits of Sgurr a'Greadaidh is the narrowest section of all, a proper knife-edge, and gives tremendous scrambling and views. We did it last year, but it seemed more spectacular in this direction. You lose track of time on the ridge, absorbed in its wonderful intricacies, and the sun was beginning to drop - all clouds melted away and a stunning evening began to develop. At the bealach, we met Dave and Ken, dozing behind some rocks, in the middle of their three day south-north crossing. It was obvious that we would fail to meet our 10 hour target, so began to hatch different plans. Above comes the easy scrambling up towards the Teeth, and then airy slabs to the top of Sgurr Thormaid, before the awkward scree traverse to gain Banachdich. After continuing along to Sgurr Dearg, Vic suggested we sack the attempt and descend to the hut - glistening below in the evening sunshine (we had no bivvy gear and no torches, so to an extent our hand was forced, although physically I felt fine and had plenty of water and a full malt loaf left). Instead of going straight down, we traversed across to the wonderful spur of Sgurr nan Gobhar - which gave a stunning and memorable descent, straight towards the setting sun which was dipping towards the Outer Hebrides of Barra and Uist. To the left, Soay and Rum all greens and blacks on a glistening silver sea. It just got better and better, and as I descended I realised my legs felt good and that there was no real option but to climb back up to the ridge and finish the job the next day.

Clach Glas-Blaven traverse

Peaks: Sgurr nan Each (720m), Clach Glas (786m), Blaven/Bla Bheinn (928m)
Routes: North Ridge (D:led), South Ridge (D:sol), North Ridge/18m Chimney (D:led)
Area: Cuillin, Skye
Rather like Ardverikie Wall, this has been a painfully obvious gap in my mountaineering CV for decades. I'd arrived in Glen Brittle fairly late yesterday evening, and found it unsurprisingly tricky to get a partner for this - as it requires a long drive back in the direction most people had just come, so was not a very logical choice for the first day on Skye! However, unlike the rest of the hut residents, I only had a couple of days so had to maximise my time, and wanted to fill in those obvious gaps. Eventually, an ideal little team emerged: Simon M agreed it would make a nice 'active rest day' in advance of our ridge attempt on Monday, and new AAC member Elaine arrived at the last minute. We drove round to Loch Slapin, last visited with the family in 2012: stunning views across to Blaven, one of the most famous and best views in the UK, with the entire ridge etched black against a deep blue sky. The car park was full, so Elaine (who had detailed local knowledge) introduced us to a connoiseur's route, very much my cup of tea, up the untravelled valley of the Allt Aigeann. This was superb: completely empty, following a delightful stream as the valley twists right then left and becomes a tight rocky gorge. Some tricky scrambling allowed us to escape the gorge, then fairly solid scree led to the big bealach between Garbh Bheinn and Sgurr nan Each. It clouded over a bit temporarily, and a fierce northerly blasted into us when we emerged - uncomfortably cold for a while. We skirted the highpoint of Sgurr nan Each, and the wind dropped quite a bit as we approached the mighty Clach Glas - which looks stupendous from this angle, the 'Matterhorn of Skye' as it is often called, a spire of black rock. At another col, numerous gendarmes and pinnacles dot the lower section, which are turned on the right. Above some exposed slabs give good scrambling to a narrowing of the ridge where it begins in earnest. More twists and turns lead to a scree gully, and then a rightward slanting shallow chimney which is key to the route. I led this on my half rope and Elaine was happier this way: Simon soloed alongside. At the top, the route heads left up superb open slabs, easy but exposed throughout. I led a long pitch up the slabs, heading right at the top to a belay, then led up gabbro shelves to the superb summit: this entire section is wonderful, as good as anything of its kind in the British Isles. It was sunny again, with stupendous clarity of light. The views were magnificent in all directions - across to Blaven, then back to the Cuillin outliers, then across to the main ridge, all of which is visible from this angle. The peaks of Knoydart, Torridon and Sgritheall all glistened with Friday's fresh snow, and the panorama stretched from Jura in the south to Fisherfield and the Outer Hebrides. After a snack, the traverse continues. We stayed roped up for the crack that leads to the tricky downclimb of the 'Imposter'. This is the famous, photogenic spire at the top of the south ridge. it looks improbable from below, but - as its name suggests - is much easier than it looks. The bottom basalt section is a tad awkward, however, and very exposed above Choire a'Caise. After this, difficulties ease but the ridge remains narrow and superb, dropping down to the left via a gully lower down, absorbing scrambling throughout with numerous surprises and detours required before the obvious haven of the 'putting green' is reached. This is a grassy col between the two peaks and an obvious lunch spot, with the Great Prow towering nearby. Then comes the route up the north flank of Blaven. This has a steep wall with good holds before slanting right then left to gain a scree slope below the 'half crown pinnacle'. On the right is the 18m chimney, which was a cold but atmospheric line with two good threads and good gabbro holds on the right wall. I brought Elaine up and we then dumped the sacks at the mini-col before walking to the top of Blaven via the broad east ridge in perfect weather (although it clouded over just a tad at the summit). A very long descent down to Coire Uaigneach, where the route kinks round, back to the shores of Loch Slapin and the car on the other side of the lake. Nice to tick this classic route at last - perhaps the best route of its kind in the UK. Alpine PD+.

Ardverikie Wall

Crag/Peak: Binnein Shuas (747m)
Route: Ardverikie Wall (HS 4a,4a,4b,4b:led p.2)
Area: Central Highlands, Scotland
A classic climb, one of Scotland's finest, and one that I have wanted to do for decades. We decided it would make an ideal stopover (and meeting point) en route to Skye, but driving up the A9 late on Friday night in driving sleet and wet snow, having just escaped a blizzard on Ben Vorlich, it seemed highly unlikely we would even start the walk-in never mind do the climb. A very cold (-3C) night sleeping in the car at the Craig Meagaidh nature reserve (last visited two years ago, our final greatly missed Whit family Highlands trip) compounded that view. But: I was woken next morning by sunlight streaming in through the rear window, and spectacular plumes of mist draped around the slopes of Creag Meagaidh, gradually burning off as the sun rose. After coffee and porridge, I met Vic and Simon at Moy Bridge and we started the walk-in under glorious skies: it was cold but not freezing, not entirely settled, with shower clouds to the east, but generally an incredible change from last night. Dry rock seemed a real possibility. And we knew the forecast was for it to get better and better over the next few days. First, however, we missed the turn off when chatting and made a famously long walk-in even longer by heading west through the conifers! Very annoying, but we reversed and decided to concentrate, heading along the track which skirts Binnein Shuas and gives access to the remote valley that gives the route its special character. I can't think of too many points of comparison in the UK: such a quality climb in such a wonderfully remote setting (Craig yr Ysfa would be the closest Welsh equivalent). This whole area has a distinctive feel, which I enjoyed in 2017 when we were here, slap bang in the middle of the Highlands, hovering between east and west in tone. The track curves round the corner, and there in front is Lochan na h-Earba, with the towering crags of Binnein Shuas catching the sun above. Famously, Ardverikie Wall looks utterly improbable at the grade until you are below it. From most angles it looks like an intimidating blank wall of rock, save for the obvious flake crack on pitch 2, which I ended up leading. We made good progress after the track, as a well-trodden path leads up to the base of the route. I thought we would have it all to ourselves, but no such luck - two young lads on bikes beat us to it, so we had a delay. Soon, though, Vic led up the merged first pitch, which takes a juggy rib - introducing us to the feldspar/microgranite characteristic of the crag, rough and compact, not unlike Cornish granite in places. The rib goes to a juggy steepening, then a run-out pocketed slab. Simon and I followed (we climbed on two single ropes for maximum flexibility). This gave me the superb second pitch - traversing right to gain the beautiful flake crack that is the most obvious feature of the route. This was easy but delightful, well protected with some bomber wires, and impeccable climbing - steady, absorbing and interesting throughout. At the top of the crack, a bulge leads to a platform then a short wall, where I joined the other party at an awkwardly small stance. The views and general ambience, looking down the wall to the loch, and across to the high peaks of Geal Charn, the Ben Alder group and across to the far end of the Ramsey Round at Chno Dearg, were unbeatable. Simon led the 3rd, another long pitch (this was a perfect route to do as a trio, with three brilliant quality 35m pitches). The probable crux comes straight away, a delicate move up the slab to a closed crack, which leads more easily rightwards to a broader, easy groove which heads diagonally left to another perfect belay. Vic led the 4th, up a scoop to a curving system of steep flakes - a precise solution to the final steeper section, curving right through the day's only wet patch, to a pull over the final bulge on perfectly positioned jugs. This leads to a terrace and the end of the difficulties, with a long final slabby pitch on easy rock leading to the plateau. The sun had now emerged after appearing intermittently (along with some very light rain) and we finally started to warm up (although it was never unbearably cold). We had lunch admiring the glorious views - it was especially nice to look across to Laggan and the valley we stayed in two years ago, and beyond a very snowy Cairngorm plateau. Fluffy clouds now, so having carried sacs throughout we completed the day in appropriately traditional mountaineering fashion, scrambling to the top of Binnein Shuas for its view of Creag Meagaidh, then descending the rocky shoulder to the west (with all the Grey Corries, Ben Nevis and the Mamores directly in front). This was all memorable, and led steeply but directly back to the track and car for a perfect loop. A classic climb, classic circuit and a memorable day. At the car, I drove to Spean bridge for a pie which I ate in glorious sunshine looking straight out towards the Grey Corries at the Glengarry viewpoint, then enjoyed the always wonderful drive over to Skye and the Glen Brittle hut in wonderful weather.

Ben Vorlich

Peak: Ben Vorlich (985m)
Area: Loch Earn, Scotland
Almost unbelievably, here was another mountain, another country, and yet another blizzard to add to this spring's long list. I wanted to stretch my legs in the evening, breaking the long journey to Skye with a quick mountain run. This is something I have done many times over the years, and it works well. As such, Ben Vorlich was one of the few remaining obvious gaps for this kind of quick outing, and the drive from Strathyre round the quiet southern edge of Loch Earn was new to me. Northerly airflow has continued for days, and it was still cold as I headed from the shores of the loch up the track through Ardvorlich house (and Bodnant-style hill garden) towards the open hill. Ahead, Ben Vorlich had some high clag and streaks of snow from this week's falls. Behind, however, Ben More and Stobinian rose from shower clouds, glistening totally white and gleaming in the evening sunshine. I planned a quick ascent, although resisted breaking into a run given the likely exertions of the next few days - fortunately, this hill is perfect in that respect. A gentle climb through open woodland leads to the open hill above the pretty stream valley, Allt a Choire Bhuidhe, and views begin to open out to the north over the Perthshire peaks. Above, the track becomes a path and steepens considerably. Here, the rain started in earnest. Then, an all-too-familiar pattern as it gave way to sleet and then snow as I ascended. After a forepeak, the snow got quite heavy and the top was pretty hostile - heavy snow falling horizontally in a stiff northerly wind, eyebrows icing up. I got to the trig point in 56 minutes, decided not to continue to Stuc a'Chroin, and descended in very poor visibility and very cold temperatures. All my tracks had been covered by a thick fresh layer of snow. On regaining the woodland, the rain stopped and the clouds began to clear leaving Ben Vorlich completely white and radiant. This, however, marked the end of this year's bad weather luck - within less than 36 hours the temperature was nudging into the low 20s on the shore of Loch Slapin.

Craig Rhiwarth climbing

Crag: Craig Rhiwarth, Llangynog, Powys
Routes: Ivory Tower (HS 4b:led), Silwood (HS 4b:led), Right-Hand finish (HS 4b:led)
One of these days, I will have to stop dragging people to obscure crags in the remotest parts of Wales. Although I enjoy exploring esoteric corners and trying to do new things, it doesn't work all that well, as there is a price to be paid in terms of vegetation, dirt, brambles and frustration. Craig Rhiwarth had been on the list for some time, and proved all the usual points - in the sense that the short climbs are potentially very good, but lack of traffic means they sink into obscurity, a vicious circle (see also Craig Dinas, Crafnant, Cywarch and many more). To guard against this, Steve and I started off at bolted Llanymynech, although I fell off the 'warm-up', and all the big routes were busy, so we took this as a sign and headed for Llangynog down the beautiful Tanat Valley (previously visited by bike on the Wild Wales challenge, and the Berwyn traverse of 2016). There was method in the madness: it was Bank Holiday Monday, and this seemed the perfect way to avoid crowds and traffic. In that sense it worked, and it is all convenient: parking in the village and walking up the valley to the obvious crags. The problems come close to the left-hand crag; waist-deep brambles. But, I've known worse and hacked them away to establish a base camp. I led off up the obvious HS line (Ivory Tower) on the right of the crag, and this was an excellent start which proves the initial point. A steep and splendid layback crack leads to a giant flake. Then easier climbing moving left to a steeper crack with great holds before a few moves gain a vegetated finish up a mossy slab. A great little climb, and a great start, but sadly the day's highlight. I should have led one of its neighbours but instead we hacked around to the left of the crag where I led Silwood at the same grade. This, an obvious left-to-right weakness, looked innocuous from below. But the first few moves were steep and awkward and the entire climb was untravelled; I would guess it has only ever had a handful of ascents. Worse, all the vegetation was sharp brambles, and needed clearing by hand: painful. The climbing is easy above, with good gear once the cracks and flakes are excavated! Two good flakes lead to the finishing groove. I moved right at the top flake to take an obvious steep black groove: this was better protected than the normal finish, with much better climbing, steep but juggy all the way. Possibly the most blood I have ever shed on a route! From here, we moved to the right-hand buttress, which has a much easier approach, but sadly ran out of time. Another less than successful day, but useful in some ways: it would repay a return visit, as the routes (although short) are nice and the rock is excellent. Apart from this, it is such a beautiful spot at the top of the Tanat Valley, with ancient oak woodland and soft green hills all around, that it's a nice place to spend some time regardless.

Carneddau run

Peaks: Bera Mawr, Garnedd Uchaf, Foel Fras, Drum
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
This spring, I have experienced snowstorms in Tenerife, Croatia, Yorkshire, and now Snowdonia. It started off very nicely as we left early for this run. We were running up to Aber Falls before 8am, always a delightful time of year in these sessile oak woodlands, and at this time in the morning you get it all to yourself. We then headed west, then contoured up the lower slopes of Drosgl picking nice trods and paths every time, gaining height fast. Mist was melting away from the tops and prospects looked good for some nice weather for a change. As Peter emerged onto the Carneddau plateau, the cloud peeled off Moel Wnion behind and Llwytmor ahead. We skirted the top of Drosgl, then ploughed through the remote, shallow, tussocky valley that leads up to the chaotic rocky summit of Bera Mawr. I don't come here often, nor does anybody else, but it gives good entertainment, scrambling up walls and grooves to the true summit on a mini-ridge of rock. Tremendous views across to Llwytmor and Foel Fras with exceptional skyscapes. As we gained the contouring running round the head of Cwm Afon Goch, however, a big black cloud raced in from the Menai Strait. By Yr Aryg, it was cloudy and breezy, then light snow as we gained Garnedd Uchaf, then heavier snow as we joined the main Carneddau motorway to the summit of Foel Fras. The cloud came in and the snow got heavier - all very familiar this spring. Fast running across to Drum, then a real drenching as we ran down the main track (reversing the Foel Fras race route) to the steep tarmac down to Aber (tough, with the Fellsman still very much in my legs). The rain didn't stop until we reached the car: still well before 11am.

Penmaenbach climbing

Crag: Penmaenbach, Conwy
Routes: Agent Orange (f5c:led), Jefferson Slab (f5c:sec), Multicultural Slab (f5b:led), Helvic Wriggle (f6a:sec)
Cold and clear this bank holiday, so we headed for an efficient, ultra-brief trip to Conwy, walking to the crag from Sychnant at 4.30pm. I'd never climbed with Peter before, surprisingly, so we began with a couple of easy bolted routes on the upper tier, both of which I've done several times before. Agent Orange is nice, however, and a little steeper than most of the climbs here. A cold northerly blew, but I felt that some newly bolted routes near the main slab, lower down, would give more shelter (and I'd never climbed on this level before and fancied doing something new on this crag where I've done everything else in range). Most of the new routes look very scrappy, but they prove a little better in reality, and I quite enjoyed the slanting, disjointed f5b which takes a series of sloping walls and ledges to gain a vague left-slanting crack which leads to the top much further left. The 6a is a tad overgraded, but starts steeply then has a few technical moves to gain more disjointed wall and ledge action. Not too bad, but we were hungry and keen to enjoy a couple of pints in the Albion, so headed back to Sychnant in glorious crisp, clear evening sunshine: tremendous crystal clear views of the Orme.