Craig Rhiwarth climbing

Crag: Craig Rhiwarth, Llangynog, Powys
Routes: Ivory Tower (HS 4b:led), Silwood (HS 4b:led), Right-Hand finish (HS 4b:led)
One of these days, I will have to stop dragging people to obscure crags in the remotest parts of Wales. Although I enjoy exploring esoteric corners and trying to do new things, it doesn't work all that well, as there is a price to be paid in terms of vegetation, dirt, brambles and frustration. Craig Rhiwarth had been on the list for some time, and proved all the usual points - in the sense that the short climbs are potentially very good, but lack of traffic means they sink into obscurity, a vicious circle (see also Craig Dinas, Crafnant, Cywarch and many more). To guard against this, Steve and I started off at bolted Llanymynech, although I fell off the 'warm-up', and all the big routes were busy, so we took this as a sign and headed for Llangynog down the beautiful Tanat Valley (previously visited by bike on the Wild Wales challenge, and the Berwyn traverse of 2016). There was method in the madness: it was Bank Holiday Monday, and this seemed the perfect way to avoid crowds and traffic. In that sense it worked, and it is all convenient: parking in the village and walking up the valley to the obvious crags. The problems come close to the left-hand crag; waist-deep brambles. But, I've known worse and hacked them away to establish a base camp. I led off up the obvious HS line (Ivory Tower) on the right of the crag, and this was an excellent start which proves the initial point. A steep and splendid layback crack leads to a giant flake. Then easier climbing moving left to a steeper crack with great holds before a few moves gain a vegetated finish up a mossy slab. A great little climb, and a great start, but sadly the day's highlight. I should have led one of its neighbours but instead we hacked around to the left of the crag where I led Silwood at the same grade. This, an obvious left-to-right weakness, looked innocuous from below. But the first few moves were steep and awkward and the entire climb was untravelled; I would guess it has only ever had a handful of ascents. Worse, all the vegetation was sharp brambles, and needed clearing by hand: painful. The climbing is easy above, with good gear once the cracks and flakes are excavated! Two good flakes lead to the finishing groove. I moved right at the top flake to take an obvious steep black groove: this was better protected than the normal finish, with much better climbing, steep but juggy all the way. Possibly the most blood I have ever shed on a route! From here, we moved to the right-hand buttress, which has a much easier approach, but sadly ran out of time. Another less than successful day, but useful in some ways: it would repay a return visit, as the routes (although short) are nice and the rock is excellent. Apart from this, it is such a beautiful spot at the top of the Tanat Valley, with ancient oak woodland and soft green hills all around, that it's a nice place to spend some time regardless.