Wednesday, June 26, 2019

Tryfan climbing

Crag/Peak: Tryfan, Eryri
Routes: Pinnacle Rib Route (D:led p.1,3), Thompson's Chimney (HS 4b:led)
Thick clag all day, which failed to clear, contrary to the forecast. After the slog up to the Terrace,  led the first pitch of the obscure Northern Rib, looking for the very few little pitches I haven't done on the East Face. Sadly, it is obscure for a reason: disjointed and pointless. So we moved left to the original Pinnacle Rib (having repeated Overlapping Rib fairly recently). Perhaps my third time up the original route, an easy classic. I merged the first pitch to take the pleasant slanting slab then the easy groove to a ledge - 100ft of delightfully simple climbing. Steve led up the steeper groove to broken ground, and I led through picking out the choice bits until the Yellow Slab. I'd led this last September, so Steve led it and continued up the curving flakes above. With mist swirling round, we decided to finish up Thompson's. I last led this in the snow in March 1992, at the time it had the comedy grade of VD. It is quite a thrutch. The initial wall is tricky, then the main chimney was wet - it has a very awkward move up the crack to gain better holds on the right wall, and a flake higher up. It is very atmospheric, though, and finishes as close to the summit as you can get. We descended in thick clag, and then rescued a lost couple from the grassy bowl above North Gully (completely disoriented, they thought they were on the west face), leading them to safety down Little Gully - a day they definitely won't forget in a hurry. Jogged back to the car for an easy finish: useful mountaineering shakedown in advance of our Alps trip.

No comments: