'Race': Erddig Parkrun
Time/Position: 19.37 (2nd from 165)
Quite a contrast to last Saturday's pressure, a nice trot around a route I hadn't done before. It is one of the better Parkruns, a really nice loop around the enormous Erddig grounds, starting in front of the stately home and pelting through thick mud to gain a mini-loop before heading back to the house, and out for a long lap through the main parkland out towards Rhostyllen. It was drizzly, dank and misty throughout: wet and awkward underfoot in places. After a mile or so, I moved into the lead and stayed there until just before the final steep climb to the finish. Another runner had stayed close behind (we were a minute clear of third place) but I couldn't keep up with him as he pulled ahead by 11 seconds. A tad tired after last night's Collie run, but a really enjoyable course which we'll definitely revisit.
Saturday, November 23, 2019
Monday, November 18, 2019
Carneddau run
Peaks: Pen Llithrig y Wrach
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A reprise of a longish run I did this time last year, with a few refinements to improve it. I dubbed it 'Pen Llithrig the hard way' last time, and it certainly makes the most of a small peak, starting out at sea level in Tal y Bont, then heading up the very steep road into Cwm Eigiau. This takes around 35 minutes of steady running, and was enlivened by superb autumn conditions - mist clearing the valley and spectacular leaf colour all around. The higher peaks were snow-covered and it remained pretty cold all day. The route levels off for the long run up Cwm Eigiau, which is always wonderful, one of my favourite places. I detoured to Llyn Eigiau, which was unusually still giving superb photo opportunities: like glass. Then it was back to the track, staying on it past a derelict farmhouse to the back of the cwm. Then comes the savage climb to Bwlch y Tri Marchog: 30 minutes of vertical bog, moss-hauling and fence pulling. As a recent Strava convert, I later discovered this was a segment, and the fastest known time (although only two records, not surprising as it is a ridiculous route). From the bwlch, the 'normal' climb up to the summit is easier and much more sensible. Wonderful views over Ogwen and Llewellyn in constantly changing cloud conditions: good snow cover higher up but just patches where I was. Then, it was down the ridge, familiar from all the Paddy reccies this year, cutting off too early for the shore of Llyn Cowlyd, another of my favourite spots. This is awkward but quite quick, and I pelted along the lakeside, to gain the pipe and the long run down to pick up the Pipe Dream climb through Dolgarrog woods back to Tal y Bont - 24k, 900m, in 2.44.
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
A reprise of a longish run I did this time last year, with a few refinements to improve it. I dubbed it 'Pen Llithrig the hard way' last time, and it certainly makes the most of a small peak, starting out at sea level in Tal y Bont, then heading up the very steep road into Cwm Eigiau. This takes around 35 minutes of steady running, and was enlivened by superb autumn conditions - mist clearing the valley and spectacular leaf colour all around. The higher peaks were snow-covered and it remained pretty cold all day. The route levels off for the long run up Cwm Eigiau, which is always wonderful, one of my favourite places. I detoured to Llyn Eigiau, which was unusually still giving superb photo opportunities: like glass. Then it was back to the track, staying on it past a derelict farmhouse to the back of the cwm. Then comes the savage climb to Bwlch y Tri Marchog: 30 minutes of vertical bog, moss-hauling and fence pulling. As a recent Strava convert, I later discovered this was a segment, and the fastest known time (although only two records, not surprising as it is a ridiculous route). From the bwlch, the 'normal' climb up to the summit is easier and much more sensible. Wonderful views over Ogwen and Llewellyn in constantly changing cloud conditions: good snow cover higher up but just patches where I was. Then, it was down the ridge, familiar from all the Paddy reccies this year, cutting off too early for the shore of Llyn Cowlyd, another of my favourite spots. This is awkward but quite quick, and I pelted along the lakeside, to gain the pipe and the long run down to pick up the Pipe Dream climb through Dolgarrog woods back to Tal y Bont - 24k, 900m, in 2.44.
Saturday, November 16, 2019
British and Irish Masters
Race: British and Irish International Masters cross country 8k (Aintree, Merseyside)
Time/Position: 29.55 (85th from 88)
Seven years has elapsed since I last ran for Wales at the International Championships. That was Belfast in 2012, I was running 34 minute 10k's at the time, and still only had eight or nine behind me. So I was under no illusions here: I was just a replacement, certainly one of the oldest in the field (a big span, from 35-50, in this race) and fully expected to finish last. The race itself (in the middle of the famous Grand National at Aintree) was the flattest cross country course I have ever seen, which just meant the pace was even higher. My tactics were obvious: just try to hold onto the back of the pack. Easier said than done, and I quickly found myself dropped off the back as the pace is blistering from the off, and no quarter is given, nobody ever slackens off. I managed to hold on though, without drifting too far back, and by the end of the second lap was clawing back a little. Each lap was 2k and I tried to up the pace on the third, passing two and catching up to a group of four Irish and Northern Irish runners. They were just ahead on the final lap, but I didn't quite have the pace to pull ahead. So, a predictably poor showing, but at least I wasn't lapped and didn't finish last. My plan was always to be running much faster when I turn 50 next year, and to be picked for Wales in 2020. So this came a year too early, when at the top of the age category, and I suspect that for all those reasons, after 530+ races this will perhaps always be memorable as the hardest race I ever do! A huge honour to run for Wales again, and a remarkable event that really puts everybody in their place - the standard is quite incredible. If all goes to plan, I hope to be at Dublin next year.
Time/Position: 29.55 (85th from 88)
Seven years has elapsed since I last ran for Wales at the International Championships. That was Belfast in 2012, I was running 34 minute 10k's at the time, and still only had eight or nine behind me. So I was under no illusions here: I was just a replacement, certainly one of the oldest in the field (a big span, from 35-50, in this race) and fully expected to finish last. The race itself (in the middle of the famous Grand National at Aintree) was the flattest cross country course I have ever seen, which just meant the pace was even higher. My tactics were obvious: just try to hold onto the back of the pack. Easier said than done, and I quickly found myself dropped off the back as the pace is blistering from the off, and no quarter is given, nobody ever slackens off. I managed to hold on though, without drifting too far back, and by the end of the second lap was clawing back a little. Each lap was 2k and I tried to up the pace on the third, passing two and catching up to a group of four Irish and Northern Irish runners. They were just ahead on the final lap, but I didn't quite have the pace to pull ahead. So, a predictably poor showing, but at least I wasn't lapped and didn't finish last. My plan was always to be running much faster when I turn 50 next year, and to be picked for Wales in 2020. So this came a year too early, when at the top of the age category, and I suspect that for all those reasons, after 530+ races this will perhaps always be memorable as the hardest race I ever do! A huge honour to run for Wales again, and a remarkable event that really puts everybody in their place - the standard is quite incredible. If all goes to plan, I hope to be at Dublin next year.
Sunday, November 10, 2019
Kelsterton 4.5m
Race: Deeside 4.3m (Border League race 2)
Time/Position: 26.19 (65th from 446)
Still a little jetlagged, but given the location I decided to have a quick blast at the second race of the season. It wasn't too much of a surprise when I started to struggle on the second part of the steep climb from Kelsterton. Afterwards, as the road weaves around and starts to descend, I picked up a few places initially before blowing completely as we re-entered the college grounds. I lost a lot of places and limped around the track to finish well down the field again.
Time/Position: 26.19 (65th from 446)
Still a little jetlagged, but given the location I decided to have a quick blast at the second race of the season. It wasn't too much of a surprise when I started to struggle on the second part of the steep climb from Kelsterton. Afterwards, as the road weaves around and starts to descend, I picked up a few places initially before blowing completely as we re-entered the college grounds. I lost a lot of places and limped around the track to finish well down the field again.
Wednesday, November 06, 2019
Uisangbong and Yongchulbong
Peaks: Uisangbong (540m), Yongchulbong (571m)
Area: Bukhansan, South Korea
Although only small, Yongchulbong's attractive profile and interesting, scrambly ascent just about qualified it as the 50th overseas peak of my 50th year. Criteria for selection: nothing on the British mainland, nothing I’d done before, all had to be notable in some way. A few were technical, some remote, some shapely, some obscure, some popular. The 50 were as follows:
Feb: Beenkeragh, Carrauntoohill, Cnoc na Peiste, Brandon, Purple Mountain (Reeks/Dingle, Ireland)
Mar: Roque del Conde, Roque Imoque, Roque los Brezos, Alto de Guajara, Pico Viejo, Montana Guama, Pico la Vera, Risco Blanco, Pico la Mesa (Tenerife)
Apr: Zoljin Kuk, Pasji Klanac, Babin Kuk, Crni Vrh, Anica Kuk (Velebit, Croatia)
May: Clach Glas, Blaven, Bidean Druim nan Ramh, Sgurr nan Eag (Skye)
Jul: Corno Neri, Pizzo Recastello, Pizzo di Coca, Monte Visolo, Presolana Occidentale, Monte Misma (Italian Alps)
Jul: Gigilos, Volakias, Psari, Mavri, Melindaou, Strifomadhi, Psilafi, Psiloritis, Stolistra, Agathias, Vouloumenou, Skoutsio Korifi (Crete)
Sep: Tskhakvzagari, Koruldi, Chubedishi, Zuruldi (Caucasus, Georgia)
Nov: Dobongsan, Podae, Jubong, Baegundae, Yongchulbong (Bukhansan, South Korea)
I'd spent most of the day getting as close to the North Korean border as I could by public transport (the DMZ was closed for the whole week I was in Korea). I got to the end of the line at Munsan and walked over the river for a view to the north, then took the metro all the way back to Gupabal where - after eight freshly steamed (jjin-mandu) dumplings - I set off from Bukhansanseong to Uisangbong. It was late, after 3pm, and this proved an inspired choice as it is short but very steep and interesting, bordering on via ferrata terrain in numerous places with ropes, open rock and slabby sections. Both these peaks are impressive spires from the road below and the route is ranked 'expert' by the local grading system. I got to the summit in 31.45 which proved to be an annoying seven seconds slower than Strava's fastest known time (partly because I had to negotiate a group of Korean soldiers on the final staircase to the summit - if I'd realised I might have pushed a little harder). It was a beautiful spot, with soft afternoon sunshine, quite a contrast from my previous two visits. Delightful views over to Baegundae and the autumnal wooded valleys below. On the other side, the endless sprawl of northern Seoul emerging from the haze. The terrain was less awkward for the continuation ridge down to the col of Gasagangdamman gate. From here, more rocky sections led to the higher peak of Yongchulbong; and the satisfaction of a memorable year of mountain activity. I spent a bit of time taking it all in, and had the entire mountain to myself which must be pretty unusual. The light and views of the wooded ridges were glorious, and very distinctive. Then it was back down the little rocky pitches to the gate above the Gungnyeongsa temple with its huge golden buddha. I'd already visited that valley on my Baegundae traverse, so instead I took the next valley down to Baekhwasa. It was a little late, but I was still amazed by this. I saw nobody at all, and the path was even a little indistinct in places! Beautiful woodland scenery again, though, and I kept up a decent pace. After I got back to the main Bukhansanseong I decided to forego the bus and run all the way back along the suburban roads to the metro station at Gupabal. This worked very well (although I had a nosebleed) and I finally stopped for makgeolli and tissues at a little store near the station.
Area: Bukhansan, South Korea
Although only small, Yongchulbong's attractive profile and interesting, scrambly ascent just about qualified it as the 50th overseas peak of my 50th year. Criteria for selection: nothing on the British mainland, nothing I’d done before, all had to be notable in some way. A few were technical, some remote, some shapely, some obscure, some popular. The 50 were as follows:
Feb: Beenkeragh, Carrauntoohill, Cnoc na Peiste, Brandon, Purple Mountain (Reeks/Dingle, Ireland)
Mar: Roque del Conde, Roque Imoque, Roque los Brezos, Alto de Guajara, Pico Viejo, Montana Guama, Pico la Vera, Risco Blanco, Pico la Mesa (Tenerife)
Apr: Zoljin Kuk, Pasji Klanac, Babin Kuk, Crni Vrh, Anica Kuk (Velebit, Croatia)
May: Clach Glas, Blaven, Bidean Druim nan Ramh, Sgurr nan Eag (Skye)
Jul: Corno Neri, Pizzo Recastello, Pizzo di Coca, Monte Visolo, Presolana Occidentale, Monte Misma (Italian Alps)
Jul: Gigilos, Volakias, Psari, Mavri, Melindaou, Strifomadhi, Psilafi, Psiloritis, Stolistra, Agathias, Vouloumenou, Skoutsio Korifi (Crete)
Sep: Tskhakvzagari, Koruldi, Chubedishi, Zuruldi (Caucasus, Georgia)
Nov: Dobongsan, Podae, Jubong, Baegundae, Yongchulbong (Bukhansan, South Korea)
I'd spent most of the day getting as close to the North Korean border as I could by public transport (the DMZ was closed for the whole week I was in Korea). I got to the end of the line at Munsan and walked over the river for a view to the north, then took the metro all the way back to Gupabal where - after eight freshly steamed (jjin-mandu) dumplings - I set off from Bukhansanseong to Uisangbong. It was late, after 3pm, and this proved an inspired choice as it is short but very steep and interesting, bordering on via ferrata terrain in numerous places with ropes, open rock and slabby sections. Both these peaks are impressive spires from the road below and the route is ranked 'expert' by the local grading system. I got to the summit in 31.45 which proved to be an annoying seven seconds slower than Strava's fastest known time (partly because I had to negotiate a group of Korean soldiers on the final staircase to the summit - if I'd realised I might have pushed a little harder). It was a beautiful spot, with soft afternoon sunshine, quite a contrast from my previous two visits. Delightful views over to Baegundae and the autumnal wooded valleys below. On the other side, the endless sprawl of northern Seoul emerging from the haze. The terrain was less awkward for the continuation ridge down to the col of Gasagangdamman gate. From here, more rocky sections led to the higher peak of Yongchulbong; and the satisfaction of a memorable year of mountain activity. I spent a bit of time taking it all in, and had the entire mountain to myself which must be pretty unusual. The light and views of the wooded ridges were glorious, and very distinctive. Then it was back down the little rocky pitches to the gate above the Gungnyeongsa temple with its huge golden buddha. I'd already visited that valley on my Baegundae traverse, so instead I took the next valley down to Baekhwasa. It was a little late, but I was still amazed by this. I saw nobody at all, and the path was even a little indistinct in places! Beautiful woodland scenery again, though, and I kept up a decent pace. After I got back to the main Bukhansanseong I decided to forego the bus and run all the way back along the suburban roads to the metro station at Gupabal. This worked very well (although I had a nosebleed) and I finally stopped for makgeolli and tissues at a little store near the station.
Tuesday, November 05, 2019
Baegundae traverse
Peaks: Baegundae (836m)
Area: Bukhansan, South Korea
As the highest peak in the Bukhansan, Baegundae was a must, although I didn't realise it could be conveniently traversed until I was on it. I'd enjoyed a few urban runs around Seoul since my Dobongsan outing (and the second city of Busan), but was looking forward to returning to the mountains. Sadly, the peaks were shrouded in mist as I entered the park after a short tube and bus ride: this was the only time I saw them claggy and was a bit unlucky. It was atmospheric, however, as I ran up the metalled road which gives an easy introduction. Above, the direct route is steep, just as steep as Dobongsan, with just as much ironmongery. Being midweek, and early, it was much quieter. Large rock walls of Yeomchobong towered above as height is gained, the mist lending an atmospheric feel, then steps lead to the pronounced Baekwun Bongammun with mist swirling around. From here, a surprisingly steep finish up the rocky ridge, which would be proper mountaineering if it wasn't for the fences! If you ignored the crowds, and the ironmongery, the weather rendered it distinctly Alpine - cold and misty. Around 40 mins to the top from the end of the tarmac. A brief and spectacular clearance from the summit, which I shared with only two or three others - which must be about as empty as it ever gets. The clearance continued, with views over the superb granite dome of Insubong, as I descended back to the Baekwun pass. Instead of continuing the direct descent of the traverse line, I prolonged my time up here (as I was enjoying myself) taking the obvious traverse path which takes a wonderful panoramic catwalk just below the summit of Maengyondae. The sun started to peek through, and I reached another obvious col (Yongammun, below its eponymous peak, which was now bathed in glorious sunshine). I opted to cut left here - on an amazingly empty path through beautiful woodland, its autumnal colours set off to perfection by the sun. It was developing into a stunning afternoon, and I wished I was still up on the peaks. Instead, I ran down to the large Doseonsa temple complex, feeling good, and continued down to Ui and the eastern entrance to the park (1.48 or so for the full traverse). I had gimbap for lunch, then got the metro from Bukhansanul to Digital Media City - which was quite a contrast!
Area: Bukhansan, South Korea
As the highest peak in the Bukhansan, Baegundae was a must, although I didn't realise it could be conveniently traversed until I was on it. I'd enjoyed a few urban runs around Seoul since my Dobongsan outing (and the second city of Busan), but was looking forward to returning to the mountains. Sadly, the peaks were shrouded in mist as I entered the park after a short tube and bus ride: this was the only time I saw them claggy and was a bit unlucky. It was atmospheric, however, as I ran up the metalled road which gives an easy introduction. Above, the direct route is steep, just as steep as Dobongsan, with just as much ironmongery. Being midweek, and early, it was much quieter. Large rock walls of Yeomchobong towered above as height is gained, the mist lending an atmospheric feel, then steps lead to the pronounced Baekwun Bongammun with mist swirling around. From here, a surprisingly steep finish up the rocky ridge, which would be proper mountaineering if it wasn't for the fences! If you ignored the crowds, and the ironmongery, the weather rendered it distinctly Alpine - cold and misty. Around 40 mins to the top from the end of the tarmac. A brief and spectacular clearance from the summit, which I shared with only two or three others - which must be about as empty as it ever gets. The clearance continued, with views over the superb granite dome of Insubong, as I descended back to the Baekwun pass. Instead of continuing the direct descent of the traverse line, I prolonged my time up here (as I was enjoying myself) taking the obvious traverse path which takes a wonderful panoramic catwalk just below the summit of Maengyondae. The sun started to peek through, and I reached another obvious col (Yongammun, below its eponymous peak, which was now bathed in glorious sunshine). I opted to cut left here - on an amazingly empty path through beautiful woodland, its autumnal colours set off to perfection by the sun. It was developing into a stunning afternoon, and I wished I was still up on the peaks. Instead, I ran down to the large Doseonsa temple complex, feeling good, and continued down to Ui and the eastern entrance to the park (1.48 or so for the full traverse). I had gimbap for lunch, then got the metro from Bukhansanul to Digital Media City - which was quite a contrast!
Saturday, November 02, 2019
Dobongsan
Peaks: Jaubong (740m), Jubong, Podae
Area: Dobongsan, Bukhansan, South Korea
The world's busiest national park, with five million visitors a year, Bukhansan is just a metro ride from the centre of Seoul. I was curious to see it at the weekend, as I have always felt Snowdon has a case for the world's most climbed mountain, and only the Tatra has come close in my previous three decades of mountain travel. Having said that, I opted for Dobongsan, the northern area, as I felt the crowds on Baegundae may just have been too overwhelming. It was certainly a novelty: I've climbed multiple thousands of peaks, but nothing quite like this. After leaving the metro station, some very impressive peaks fringe the skyline. Then a warren of market stalls, all selling fantastic food for hiking picnics: I went for the classic, gimbap with a side of kimchi. At the entrance is an Alpine museum, which I poked round in happily before starting a low jogging pace upwards, weaving through hundreds (thousands actually) of local hikers. The route from Dobong is surprisingly steep, but mostly runnable, and takes a mixture of rocky staircases and forest paths to gain an impressive slab of granite (Madangbawi) with views over northern Seoul. It was a tad hazy but dry and warm, with beautiful autumnal colours, the best time of year to be here. Above was a vague wooded ridge, with the superb south face of Seoninbong to the right (climbers were on the good looking beige granite, highly reminiscent of Cornwall, Arran or Chamonix). From here, an actual staircase leads up to a narrow col: all very novel. If the hardware wasn't there, it would actually be a fairly challenging peak, perhaps a grade II scramble. As it is, the main peak involves a steep final climb facilitated by metal barriers: fairly exposed at the top (56 mins from the gimbap stall) and a small summit rammed with hikers. It was all pretty unique, as I had hoped it might be. Views down to Seoul were rather hazy, but the surrounding ridges were beautiful: outcrops of granite and dwarf trees, like a Japanese landscape painting. I fought my way back through the crowds then headed up a nearby knoll for a memorable lunch of homemade gimbap and kimchi: outstanding, although perhaps not the ideal running food, and my stomach rebelled for the jog across to the neighbouring - much quieter - peak of Jubong. This was a huge contrast, although not far to the south, and some open rock gained the summit. Then it was back to the knoll, and what I hoped was the ridgeline to Podae. I started up this, but was essentially prevented from doing so by a ranger, who seemed to suggest it was verboten. Instead, I took a meandering alternative, which regained the ridge and led to Podae: which has a kind of viewing platform at the summit, like something from an African safari. I took a direct line down steep steps with lovely autumnal scenes; this valley was steep-sided and much less busy, until the Manworam temple is reached. Soft buddhist chants then accompanied the rest of the run and I rejoined the ascent path lower down. After a rest in a truly delightful glade, spectacular autumn colours, I did as the locals did: a beer in a convenience store, and then a truly memorable hour as I drank a bottle of makgeolli, the local raw rice wine with a chalky white colour, in a kind of beer garden with multiple tables. Seeing me drinking the local brew, two different people shared their food with me as everybody relaxed after their Saturday hike.
Area: Dobongsan, Bukhansan, South Korea
The world's busiest national park, with five million visitors a year, Bukhansan is just a metro ride from the centre of Seoul. I was curious to see it at the weekend, as I have always felt Snowdon has a case for the world's most climbed mountain, and only the Tatra has come close in my previous three decades of mountain travel. Having said that, I opted for Dobongsan, the northern area, as I felt the crowds on Baegundae may just have been too overwhelming. It was certainly a novelty: I've climbed multiple thousands of peaks, but nothing quite like this. After leaving the metro station, some very impressive peaks fringe the skyline. Then a warren of market stalls, all selling fantastic food for hiking picnics: I went for the classic, gimbap with a side of kimchi. At the entrance is an Alpine museum, which I poked round in happily before starting a low jogging pace upwards, weaving through hundreds (thousands actually) of local hikers. The route from Dobong is surprisingly steep, but mostly runnable, and takes a mixture of rocky staircases and forest paths to gain an impressive slab of granite (Madangbawi) with views over northern Seoul. It was a tad hazy but dry and warm, with beautiful autumnal colours, the best time of year to be here. Above was a vague wooded ridge, with the superb south face of Seoninbong to the right (climbers were on the good looking beige granite, highly reminiscent of Cornwall, Arran or Chamonix). From here, an actual staircase leads up to a narrow col: all very novel. If the hardware wasn't there, it would actually be a fairly challenging peak, perhaps a grade II scramble. As it is, the main peak involves a steep final climb facilitated by metal barriers: fairly exposed at the top (56 mins from the gimbap stall) and a small summit rammed with hikers. It was all pretty unique, as I had hoped it might be. Views down to Seoul were rather hazy, but the surrounding ridges were beautiful: outcrops of granite and dwarf trees, like a Japanese landscape painting. I fought my way back through the crowds then headed up a nearby knoll for a memorable lunch of homemade gimbap and kimchi: outstanding, although perhaps not the ideal running food, and my stomach rebelled for the jog across to the neighbouring - much quieter - peak of Jubong. This was a huge contrast, although not far to the south, and some open rock gained the summit. Then it was back to the knoll, and what I hoped was the ridgeline to Podae. I started up this, but was essentially prevented from doing so by a ranger, who seemed to suggest it was verboten. Instead, I took a meandering alternative, which regained the ridge and led to Podae: which has a kind of viewing platform at the summit, like something from an African safari. I took a direct line down steep steps with lovely autumnal scenes; this valley was steep-sided and much less busy, until the Manworam temple is reached. Soft buddhist chants then accompanied the rest of the run and I rejoined the ascent path lower down. After a rest in a truly delightful glade, spectacular autumn colours, I did as the locals did: a beer in a convenience store, and then a truly memorable hour as I drank a bottle of makgeolli, the local raw rice wine with a chalky white colour, in a kind of beer garden with multiple tables. Seeing me drinking the local brew, two different people shared their food with me as everybody relaxed after their Saturday hike.
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