Wednesday, November 06, 2019

Uisangbong and Yongchulbong

Peaks: Uisangbong (540m), Yongchulbong (571m)
Area: Bukhansan, South Korea
Although only small, Yongchulbong's attractive profile and interesting, scrambly ascent just about qualified it as the 50th overseas peak of my 50th year. Criteria for selection: nothing on the British mainland, nothing I’d done before, all had to be notable in some way. A few were technical, some remote, some shapely, some obscure, some popular. The 50 were as follows:
Feb: Beenkeragh, Carrauntoohill, Cnoc na Peiste, Brandon, Purple Mountain (Reeks/Dingle, Ireland)
Mar: Roque del Conde, Roque Imoque, Roque los Brezos, Alto de Guajara, Pico Viejo, Montana Guama, Pico la Vera, Risco Blanco, Pico la Mesa (Tenerife)
Apr: Zoljin Kuk, Pasji Klanac, Babin Kuk, Crni Vrh, Anica Kuk (Velebit, Croatia)
May: Clach Glas, Blaven, Bidean Druim nan Ramh, Sgurr nan Eag (Skye)
Jul: Corno Neri, Pizzo Recastello, Pizzo di Coca, Monte Visolo, Presolana Occidentale, Monte Misma (Italian Alps)
Jul: Gigilos, Volakias, Psari, Mavri, Melindaou, Strifomadhi, Psilafi, Psiloritis, Stolistra, Agathias, Vouloumenou, Skoutsio Korifi (Crete)
Sep: Tskhakvzagari, Koruldi, Chubedishi, Zuruldi (Caucasus, Georgia)

Nov: Dobongsan, Podae, Jubong, Baegundae, Yongchulbong (Bukhansan, South Korea) 
I'd spent most of the day getting as close to the North Korean border as I could by public transport (the DMZ was closed for the whole week I was in Korea). I got to the end of the line at Munsan and walked over the river for a view to the north, then took the metro all the way back to Gupabal where - after eight freshly steamed (jjin-mandu) dumplings - I set off from Bukhansanseong to Uisangbong. It was late, after 3pm, and this proved an inspired choice as it is short but very steep and interesting, bordering on via ferrata terrain in numerous places with ropes, open rock and slabby sections. Both these peaks are impressive spires from the road below and the route is ranked 'expert' by the local grading system. I got to the summit in 31.45 which proved to be an annoying seven seconds slower than Strava's fastest known time (partly because I had to negotiate a group of Korean soldiers on the final staircase to the summit - if I'd realised I might have pushed a little harder). It was a beautiful spot, with soft afternoon sunshine, quite a contrast from my previous two visits. Delightful views over to Baegundae and the autumnal wooded valleys below. On the other side, the endless sprawl of northern Seoul emerging from the haze. The terrain was less awkward for the continuation ridge down to the col of Gasagangdamman gate. From here, more rocky sections led to the higher peak of Yongchulbong; and the satisfaction of a memorable year of mountain activity. I spent a bit of time taking it all in, and had the entire mountain to myself which must be pretty unusual. The light and views of the wooded ridges were glorious, and very distinctive. Then it was back down the little rocky pitches to the gate above the Gungnyeongsa temple with its huge golden buddha. I'd already visited that valley on my Baegundae traverse, so instead I took the next valley down to Baekhwasa. It was a little late, but I was still amazed by this. I saw nobody at all, and the path was even a little indistinct in places! Beautiful woodland scenery again, though, and I kept up a decent pace. After I got back to the main Bukhansanseong I decided to forego the bus and run all the way back along the suburban roads to the metro station at Gupabal. This worked very well (although I had a nosebleed) and I finally stopped for makgeolli and tissues at a little store near the station.

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