Tuesday, November 05, 2019

Baegundae traverse

Peaks: Baegundae (836m)
Area: Bukhansan, South Korea
As the highest peak in the Bukhansan, Baegundae was a must, although I didn't realise it could be conveniently traversed until I was on it. I'd enjoyed a few urban runs around Seoul since my Dobongsan outing (and the second city of Busan), but was looking forward to returning to the mountains. Sadly, the peaks were shrouded in mist as I entered the park after a short tube and bus ride: this was the only time I saw them claggy and was a bit unlucky. It was atmospheric, however, as I ran up the metalled road which gives an easy introduction. Above, the direct route is steep, just as steep as Dobongsan, with just as much ironmongery. Being midweek, and early, it was much quieter. Large rock walls of Yeomchobong towered above as height is gained, the mist lending an atmospheric feel, then steps lead to the pronounced Baekwun Bongammun with mist swirling around. From here, a surprisingly steep finish up the rocky ridge, which would be proper mountaineering if it wasn't for the fences! If you ignored the crowds, and the ironmongery, the weather rendered it distinctly Alpine - cold and misty. Around 40 mins to the top from the end of the tarmac. A brief and spectacular clearance from the summit, which I shared with only two or three others - which must be about as empty as it ever gets. The clearance continued, with views over the superb granite dome of Insubong, as I descended back to the Baekwun pass. Instead of continuing the direct descent of the traverse line, I prolonged my time up here (as I was enjoying myself) taking the obvious traverse path which takes a wonderful panoramic catwalk just below the summit of Maengyondae. The sun started to peek through, and I reached another obvious col (Yongammun, below its eponymous peak, which was now bathed in glorious sunshine). I opted to cut left here - on an amazingly empty path through beautiful woodland, its autumnal colours set off to perfection by the sun. It was developing into a stunning afternoon, and I wished I was still up on the peaks. Instead, I ran down to the large Doseonsa temple complex, feeling good, and continued down to Ui and the eastern entrance to the park (1.48 or so for the full traverse). I had gimbap for lunch, then got the metro from Bukhansanul to Digital Media City - which was quite a contrast!

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