Area: Western Tatra, Poland
This was a magical day in stunning autumnal weather. I had never visited the Western end of the Tatra before so got the Witow bus after breakfast to the base of the Dolina Chocholowska, a long valley which heads right into the heart of the range for at least 7km with minimal climbing. It is metalled for much of the way and a bike would have helped. That said, it was really enjoyable as the sun climbed up to provide some warmth. This increased after the Chocholowska refuge and the sharp, lengthy climb up to gain the main ridge was almost hot at times. Far less wind than yesterday, and these peaks are much more gentle than the central part of the range - grassy, endless ridges, rather like a grand version of the Carneddau, superbly runnable if you have the legs (I didn't). I reached a saddle between Bobrowiec and Grzes before heading up to the summit of the latter: a crowded but absolutely beautiful spot with low juniper bushes and crystal clear views down beautiful valleys to both sides. The Chocholowska was stunning from this vantage point as were the Slovak valleys to the north and west above Zuberec. The ridge then traces the Slovak border and the low sun and autumnal ambers lent it all a magical feel over the minor summits of Dlugi Uplaz and Rakon. From here, great views over the rockier Slovak peaks in this area, like Ostry Rohav and Placlive. From Rakon, Wolowiec rises steeply - clearly the focal point of the Western Tatra and a major objective for the hundreds of hill walkers out on this glorious Sunday. It is steep to the summit, but the reward is a tremendous view east to the bigger peaks. The ridge stretches out in front, but I had a difficult decision to make. I deliberately failed to pack a headtorch so I wouldn't be tempted to finish in the dark. However, the onward ridge looked achievable. It would have taken a lot out of me, however, and the descent may well have been arduous so I took a cautious approach and descended the side valley of the Wyzni Chocholowska Potok instead. This was lengthy enough, but didn't take long to regain the treeline and then the hut. This sadly had a weird ordering system requiring a knowledge of Polish! So I jogged back down the Chocholowska instead - cold as the sun dropped - stopping for a superb home cooked sausage from a Goral hut near the road head. I continued refuelling back in Zakopane with a giant plate of golabki, pierogi and pork, washed down with gluhwein as the temperatures dropped away to -3c that night.
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