Area: Sinaia, Romania
A trip to Romania during an unseasonably cold snap, unluckily coinciding with perfect British springtime weather. So not the best timing, but after two nights in Bucharest I got the train to Sinaia, which is not formally part of Transylvania, but marks the start of the mountains that encircle it. Looking at the forecast, time was of the essence, as this Saturday looked like the last window of any kind before it got really bad. So the hour long delay at the Gara de Nord, sitting on the train after it arrived from Constanta, was annoying. Still, we made it in to Sinaia around midday, mountains looming all around but particularly impressive to the west. Then came another time delay, as my hotel was well outside the town, so it took a while to ditch my luggage and head back to town - at least 6 or 7k. However, a huge bonus as I realised the cable car was running, very early in the season and presumably because it was a weekend and the last feasible day before the weather changed. So I didn't look a gift horse in the mouth, and took the gondola up the middle station, then the spectacular top cable to Cabana 2000 just below the summit of Furnica. There was a fair bit of snow around, with more threatening, but it looked like showers rather than anything more serious. So I plodded up to Furnica to decide what to do, and what looked feasible. The highest peaks around the much higher Omu, above 2500m, were obviously out, totally plastered in very deep snow and with low cloud covering the plateau. I was only in trail running shoes so hatched a plan based on judgment and experience. I descended the steep slopes north of Furnica, a tiring combination of neve, soft snow and scree. At the bottom, a rolling plateau stretches out so I plodded up to the named peak of Piatra Arsa where I took stock again. To the west, what I took to be the Fagaras range looked wild and wonderful, with black clouds threatening. My route now seemed obvious, so I negotiated a large snowfield, tiring with the occasional soft bit, down to the little conglomerate pinnacle that turned out to be the Pintenui, a mini scramble and a superb viewpoint down hidden valleys like Pelesului right down to my hotel. From here, another snowfield down to a col, and then a lovely narrow path leading through juniper copses high above the Sinaia valley to Jepii Mari. I then more or less retraced my steps but took a direct line across to Furnica, much further east above the valley. The weather was very changeable throughout, and very cold, but nothing compared to what was to come so I extended the day towards the appealing peak of Varful cu Dor further south along the Drum de Vara. This was lovely, albeit marred by ski developments. A steep scramble to the top, for superb views down to Vanturis to the south, pristine forested valleys everywhere, and a galaxy of peaks to the west. Snow showers created spectacular effects as they tracked across the landscape. A wonderful place to sit for a while, but I was getting hungry so it was back to Furnica for the cable car down, where I stopped at the middle station for a magnificent ham and cascaval pancake, made in front of me at a outdoor stall, plus a Timisoreana beer, before getting one of the last gondolas back to Sinaia.
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