Zarnesti Gorge

Even deeper into the heart of Transylvania, via the tiny branch line that allows Zarnesti to be reached from Brasov. Zarnesti is the end of the line, but also the start of the high mountain ridge of the Piatra Crailului. I emerged from the train into subzero conditions and a freezing wind: the forested high ridge caked in snow with all the trees draped in white. My guesthouse was just a room in a house and it was right at the far end of the fairly sizeable village/town (because it housed a secret weapons plant in the Communist era). After a quick chat with the owner, I settled in to the front bedroom and pondered my options. The high ridge looked unfeasible, partly for weather reasons and partly because I was conscious of the high bear population, by far the highest in Europe! Solo, at this time of year, it seemed wise to take precautions despite the extremely unlikely scenario (and in many ways I would have loved to have seen one). I also thought about running to Bran castle, which was entirely feasible. But in the end, the location of the house very close to the entrance of the Piatra Crailului National Park swung it, and I set off in a heavy snow flurry up a little road leading towards a valley splitting the high main ridge on the right, and a range of lower hills left. It was very atmospheric, the epitome of what you might expect the Transylvanian mountains to look and feel like. Native woodland on all sides, wild silence, icy blasts from the high peaks. The road became a track and it became quite eerie in the heavy snow for a short while, although higher up two or three cars were parked. Looking at the park map, I wasn't too far from Zarnesti gorge so after poking around a bit higher up I decided and out-and-back would be a sensible objective, so did this, through deep dark woods to the entrance to the gorge - a thin but decent covering of snow throughout, which continued a I rounded the corner in to the tight limestone walls of the gorge. This twisted and turned and was pretty wonderful, with wild mountain sides higher up and dark threatening skies above: memorable. I had walked up to this point, but ran all the way back down (between 5 and 6k back to the village) as the snow stopped and a tiny hint of sunshine peeked through. The rest of the trip was more urban and 'train based', up to Sighisoara via Brasov, and then back to Bucharest on the slow train from Vienna.