Rydal Round fell race

Race: Heart of the Lakes Rydal Round (16k/3300ft)

Time/Position: 1.55.27 (40th from 108)

You don't look a gift horse in the mouth, and it was pure fluke that my end-of-leave-year micro break coincided with the famous 'Ambleside Sports' on the last Thursday in July. I only found out about it at the last minute, just before I left home: a special day that celebrates traditional Lakeland events like Cumberland wrestling and, of course, fell racing. So although I was planning three relaxing days in the hills as a break from all the recent road running, I couldn't let up the opportunity to do such a classic race. This was partly also because one the few gaps on my 'classic Lakes race CV' is the Fairfield Horseshoe, which this is a version of. I've walked and jogged it a lot, in fact I first went round it way back in 1988! Normally, I wouldn't have done 11 miles in the hills the day before a big race, but I wasn't bothered as the last thing I wanted was to hammer a hard fell race given all my current road running priorities. After a full breakfast at the Grasmere hostel, I enjoyed the leisurely bike ride down to the sports field and had a coffee while I waited for the race, the first event of the day. A great atmosphere, and more or less perfect conditions, warm but not too hot with a light westerly over the tops. We left the field and headed to a level track that leads to Rydal and from here the main climb up and over Nab Scar begins. This was a bit hot and stifling, and is steep and hard throughout. I felt fairly good, however, although I was inevitably miles off the pace given the obvious fact that I have been focused on short, flat road races for several months. From Heron Pike, I really enjoyed the entire ridge up to Fairfield. I got all the right lines, the views are superb, and I felt comfortable, reaching the summit in a little over the hour. The descent was a different story, sadly, tricky and rocky over Hart Crag and then fast running down to Dove Crag led me to think I was on for a decent time. But the descent then becomes awkward over High and Low Pike. It's been decades since I did this bit of the ridge and I had forgotten it. There are a few tricky rises and some awkward ground, including the bad step and some rocky tracks. I was also caught by a familiar face, Neil from Warrington, and we had a grand old battle down to the sports field, which I lost! We had a pint in the sunshine as the other events took place, and I then cycled back to the hostel for a relaxing evening. A great way to conclude an eventful month.

Kentmere west

Peaks: Ill Bell, Yoke

Area: Kentmere, Lake District

A bonus mini-break to the Lakes. The forecast initially suggested that today would be by far the best weather-wise so I had originally planned a long version of the Kentmere Horseshoe by way of initial preparation for the Snowdonian Marathon. But plans were altered a little due to my late discovery that a classic fell race was scheduled for tomorrow. So I didn't want to empty the tank today, but neither did I want to completely change my plans so I settled on a compromise solution. I parked halfway between Staveley and Kentmere, as the village itself is notoriously tricky to park in. I've done the proper Horseshoe three times I think, including the race itself. But today I jogged up the quiet road over Low Bridge to the lovely village, incredibly tranquil, and then took the ancient tracks towards the reservoir. The valley of the River Kent itself is to the right, with Kentmere Pike (the last peak on the race) rising above. The track was good, and so I made quick progress and that continued round the lake to a short-cut which led across to the vague North-East ridge of Ill Bell. This is very steep indeed, especially towards the top, and I took it very steady in order to save energy. Cloudy but great views down to Kentmere and over to High Street, Froswick and beyond. Towards the central Lakes it was a little more misty so I was quite lucky. From Ill Bell I took the easy path over to Yoke, where a wasp got under my shirt and stung my left shoulder, like a needle. I could still feel it 24 hours later, and the itching continued for days. I cut the boggy corner to the Garburn Pass (Windermere on the right) and then took this back to Kentmere, ancient, rocky and awkward: from memory the race route takes this at the start. A pleasant return to the van and then a late lunch from Booths before checking into the Grasmere youth hostel.

Holyhead Breakwater 5

Race: Holyhead Breakwater 5m (North Wales Championships)

Time/Position: 29:18 (14th from 110 [1st V55])

An unusual and enjoyable race, which takes the slender Holyhead Breakwater all the way to the lighthouse with the Irish Sea on both sides. This makes it rather exposed to the wind, but today those winds were light. That said, it was still enough to slow me down and stop me from recording the sub-29 I had intended to run. I felt good on the outward leg which leaves Holyhead at Newry Beach and heads along Porth y Felin before making its turn towards the breakwater. Like Birkenhead, I felt really good initially, running 3.30km/5.40 mile pace, which would have produced a good time for my age. The breakwater is slightly uneven on large slabs but it was all quite enjoyable until the turn where I began to slow a little. This really worsened on the incline up the gravel back towards Porth y Felin and I lost a significant amount of time here. Fortunately, once back on the tarmac I improved to a fast though depleted finish and at least managed to improve my Birkenhead time from Wednesday, even though I felt I ran better at that race and my pace seemed far quicker (as I still think it was a bit long!). Three very fast V50s in the open race ahead of me, but I did have the consolation of first V55 in the incorporated North Wales Championships, which I have won before in other age categories (13th in the UK rankings). Kate and I then relaxed with a Trearddur Bay coastal walk and paddle as the sun came out. I later found out that I'd broken the all-time North Wales V55 record which has stood since 2008, so that was nice! Also currently 3rd all-time for 5k after the Wirral race, but only 8th all-time for 10k with my Colshaw Hall performance.

Birkenhead 5

Race: Birkenhead Park 5m

Time/Position: 29.27 (29th from 385 [1st V55])

One of the oldest races in the wider region, although I last did it 15 years ago. A strange race tonight: I felt good and was recording fast 5.40 miles throughout the race, but there was a disconnect between what my watch was telling me and what the mile markers were saying. I usually race on instinct but this was unsettling as my Garmin tends to undermeasure everything, especially short races. I paced it well: one fast short lap is followed by three long ones. I consciously eased off for the middle long lap but otherwise kept a good pace ticking over despite the somewhat disappointing result, which does lead me to wonder whether the race was a little long. Still, it was at least a reasonable V55 5 mile time to go along with my reasonable 5k and 10k times, albeit about 30 seconds slower than I had hoped to run and at least a minute slower than my Garmin suggested I was running!

PitP parkrun

'Race': Park in the Past parkrun

Time/Position: 18.17 (1st from 306)

Some kind of speed session was needed after two weeks of plodding up mountains and with two big five mile races coming up. So I trotted across the fields this morning in a pair of ancient shoes, just intending to do a tempo session around the parkrun. To my surprise, however, the first lap was the fastest I have recorded on the course (my 4th time here). This set me up for a decent session and I eventually caught the young lad ahead and another runner to find myself out in front. Not a race, of course, but this was my second first place finish at the event and more or less equalled my best time.

Aoos Gorge

A final outing, jogging along the Aoos Gorge towards the Stomiou monastery. The night before I had paddled in the Aoos before eating trout caught from the river staring up at the old Konitsa bridge, as well as the gorge and Gamila's superb pyramidal peak beyond. This morning I ran from my hotel on the main road to cross the bridge and then along the riverside track up the gorge. Quite delightful although I was now tired! I turned round just before the monastery then took the same track back to the bridge and Hotel Aoos. And that was that. After a spanakopita breakfast I drove through wild and remote mountains (turning back for petrol after 40k!) to Grevena and then the motorway to Vergina and the incredible tomb and treasures of Philip II of Macedon.

Trapezitsa

Peaks: Trapezitsa (2024m)

Area: Konitsa, Pindos, Greece

A beautiful, almost entirely wooded, peak which rises directly above Konitsa, the town I had retreated to after coming down from the hut. After 6000m or so of elevation gain since the weekend I was pretty tired so had a double cappuccino and enormous pastry before leaving town! As this was likely to be my last significant outing of the trip I went for a 'speed' ascent, a relative term, leaving the high col above Konitsa in warm weather with heat and humidity building. I trotted at a reasonable pace through some meadows before entering thick woodland, very atmospheric. The route was well marked, which made a pleasant change, and begins to gain height fairly relentlessly. It passes an eroded stream gully quite early and then weaves round the eastern slopes of the peak before another badly eroded section where the path has presumably been washed away. The mountain is quite steep and an awkward detour gains a narrow contouring path which leads to the final steep climb to the summit rocks. Views begin to open out (and I disturbed some chamois here) and the route kinks suddenly rightwards and takes on a rockier character. A short pitch up a groove would have been UK grade 3 or so, but had a rope down it, and it is all quite short-lived. But the summit was a superb place, surprisingly rocky and exposed, with stunning grandstand views across to the Gamila escarpment. From all those peaks, I'd looked down at the soft blue mountain of Trapezitsa, so it was very satisfying to look up from the opposing viewpoint. I was up in 1.25 according to the Strava segment, which seems OK given the 1100m vertical interval. I trotted back down through the Bosnian pines at a quick but cautious pace, very hot by the time I reached the car. I refuelled with superb tirokafteri and souvlaki at a locally famous hole-in-the-wall place in Konitsa. 

Tsouka/Vikos

Peaks: Tsouka (2251m), Lapatos (2190m)

Area: Zagori, Greece

Scratching around for final morning options from the hut, having already bagged the key summits, this leapt out as the only feasible opportunity. It is basically the end, and highpoint, of the ridge that leads north from the hut and therefore doesn't require a descent. It was satisfying to have already picked off the main objectives, so this was intended as merely a leg stretcher, and obviously those legs were tired. After a decent night's sleep (fewer snorers) I had a leisurely breakfast, dumped my stuff, and set out for Tsouka in cooler weather. There wasn't even a trace of a path as soon as the immediate environs of the hut were left and this set the tone. I tried to contour the early rises as it was obvious that the true summit was some way off. The perfect clarity of yesterday had given way to more hazy and somewhat cooler conditions but the terrain was awkward tussocks until I got to the final col below the real summit of Tsouka at the end of the ridge. I passed a giant sinkhole then a steep section led to the small summit, poised over the escarpment to the north. Superb views down to Trapezitsa and Konitsa, where I was heading next: variegated shades of blue in the morning light. To the right, Smolikas and yesterday's peaks. The mountains along the Albanian border were also impressive, I'd watched the sun set behind them (Tumba maybe?) each night at the hut. Good numbers of Balkan chamois, along with both normal choughs and Alpine choughs. I returned much more directly over the crest of the ridge, well defined in places and with a hint of a path, much easier than my contouring. I took in one or two subsidiary summits (possibly called Lapatos and Koutsomitros) and then picked up my kit at the hut before jogging all the way down to Mikro Papigo (45 minutes at a relaxed pace). After dropping off my kit and recuperating at the car, I wandered through the cobbled alleyways and vines of this archetypal Zagori stone village then did the 6k walk to the edge of the Vikos Gorge, arguably Europe's (even the world's) deepest (by certain measures) and a wonderful sight. From the far end, you can see down to the blue waters of the Voidomatis river far below. I was conscious I was only scratching the surface of the gorge, so to speak, but a partial view was better than nothing. I tried to recuperate with a dip in the rock pools, but they were ruined by a party of 50 or more noisy Israelis so I beat a hasty retreat to Aristi. Here I had a superb lunch of gigantes beans with local greens and herbs, looking back up at Astraka and Tsouka, this morning's peak, a giant whaleback from the village. I could even see the hut, a speck on the high col, as the weather closed in and thunder rolled around.

Gamila and Stoma

Peaks: Gamila (2497m), Stoma (2466m)

Area: Tymfi, Zagori, Greece

Gamila is the highest peak in the Tymfi range and looks tremendous from Konitsa and other points below the northern cliffs. It dominates the view from the old bridge over the Aoos Gorge, for example. From other angles it is still an impressive wedge-shaped mountain although it is actually a straightforward and very enjoyable outing from the Astraka Hut. After a reasonable night despite the top bunk and snorers, I had the standard hut breakfast with coffee looking out over the lower valley then headed out into a stunning cloudless morning, temperatures already on the rise. The first part of the day was the annoying descent, a repeat of yesterday, as well as the rocky shallow gorge. But at the meadows, a single cairn indicates the turn for Gamila. This leads north-west into a giant valley with the Dolomite-like peak of Ploskos to the left and Gamila straight ahead, just a low whaleback from this angle, barely distinguishable. The weather and ambience was glorious: deep blue skies, not outrageously hot, perfect clarity in all directions. The tiny path takes a cunning line through the karst, using little grassy valleys interspersed with rocky steps until the upper cwm is reached. It then steepens and gets rockier with the walls of Ploskos closing in on the left, and it stays vague throughout although probably less so than many in the range. Above, a col is reached between Gamila and Ploskos with a plummeting gully directly ahead: the edge of the giant escarpment. I took the contouring path below Gamila before leaving it and taking a direct beeline to the summit at the top of the sloping 'wedge'. Half way up, views over the gulf opened out to the famed Drakolimni lake, glistening azure far below (this was the main objective for most of the hut residents). Beautiful wooded hills to the north like Trapesitza came into few (I hoped to do them from Konitsa). At the summit was a Greek couple and the lady identified some of the other peaks for me (wrongly in the case of Stoma!). Ahead was Smolikas, Greece's second highest, and far to the east was - unless I am much mistaken - Mount Olympus itself, which I climbed way back in 1994. The most notable aspect of the view, however, was the stunning vertical escarpment, with the northern cliffs plummeting down to Konitsa and a range of wooded valleys. The strange nature of the geology is really clear from the small summit: vertical drops on one side, steep grassy slopes on the other. Stoma loomed across the escarpment and seemed an essential addition so I took the ridge line down to a rocky col between the two peaks. More spectacular gullies and ridges to the north, and the rise to Stoma was steep but short. From here, I could have continued but as I'd enjoyed the climb so much I just contoured Gamila and descended the same way back to Xerolimni, where I took a very big diversion to take in Drakolinmi, the lake everyone visited (even though I had already looked down on it). I crossed the dry lake then crested a vegetated rise to gain the main path, by far the biggest in the region. It was very hot and airless by now, and I was tiring and running out of water and calories. I gained the lake with its magnificent views up to Gamila which looks unfeasible in all sorts of ways from here, hard to believe I was there an hour or two ago. Then it was back down to the depression and then a final climb back up to the refuge, where I immediately ordered pasta! Around 17k, 1300m in 4.5 hours, mostly to do with the awkward karst landscape again, and the heat later on. After delightful pasta looking back at Gamila from the hut balcony, I spent an ultra relaxing afternoon with Greek coffee and then local veal with potatoes.

Astraka traverse

Peaks: Astraka (2486m), Kalogeros (2112m) 

Area: Pindos, Greece

Into the Tymfi range this morning, in many ways the focal point of the wider Zagori. Astraka is one of the most notable mountains and, like the rest of the range, has a slightly unusual structure: huge limestone walls forming impressive escarpments to the north, with the ground sloping far more gently to the south. After breakfast in Metsovo, I left with some regret and drove via Ioannina to the famed Zagori villages with their stone roofs and quaint alleyways. I had a coffee in Kalpaki which was much needed for the rigours ahead. I parked outside Mikro Papigo and then started the walk-in to the Astraka hut with three days worth of kit, under the midday sun! Needless to say, this was hard work: only 6k or so but over a 1000m vertical interval. I took it steady, with the towers of Astraka on the right and the huge cleft of the Vikos Gorge beyond. I'm no stranger to these kinds of hut plods, and there is a technique to making it bearable and even enjoyable I always think. Still, it was a relief to get to the refuge, where I left most of my kit. I wasn't sure whether I would have the energy for Astraka, but after a short rest I thought I might as well go for it given my varied objectives for the three days. The hut, named after the peak, is superbly positioned on a high col, but this means an annoying descent down to the (seasonal) lake of Xerolimni (just a dusty depression in July). Then came a rocky section below the most impressive section of Astraka's Towers, soaring vertically up to the right. Above, the ground levels off into meadows some of which were grazed by cows, and then close to the Robozi lake before cutting westwards and climbing steeply through a gap to an upper cwm. The very vague path weaves through this until it eventually gains the main plateau and gently sloping summit area. Again, no path but there were a few cairns as I weaved north-westwards towards the escarpment and, eventually the true summit. This is in a spectacular position above the cliffs with tremendous views over Gamila (wedge-shaped from this angle, and the objective for tomorrow), as well as Smolikas beyond. Behind, the top of the Vikos Gorge. It had clouded over a little but the karst scenery was still superb. I decided to continue the traverse rather than return the same way as it seemed similar in terms of energy expenditure. This was a great decision, over a secondary summit and some huge gullies to the broad western ridge with tremendous views down to the Zagori villages. This trended south-west past lots of Balkan chamois (I saw at least 40 today, a substantial proportion of the 1500 left in the wild). Lower down it became classic limestone pavement interspersed with sinkholes (some huge caves here) and other tricky karst features. Another peak called Kalogeros marked the end of this section, just the top of a spur really, and then the ridge kinked north and became rocky and even a little narrow in places. This was unexpected but a little tiring as the terrain was steep - I could see the hut path below and, after much weaving and height loss I eventually reached it (superb red-backed shrike here). The climb back up to the hut up the steepest part of the hut walk was very tiring as I was now on 2000m elevation for the day, but there is a natural spring half way up which helped! Local bean soup with bread, and mountain tea with honey was nice but probably not calorific enough (a very unusual error for me!) and I was in the top bunk of the dorm without a guard rail: great views down to the villages 1300m below but not conducive to a good night's sleep.

Kalogeros

Peaks: Kalogeros (2092m)

Area: Pindos, Greece

Although not far from the motorway, which you can actually see at times, this wild cirque of peaks is about as untravelled as it gets in Europe. I could find no information about it, although the dominant mountain in the cirque might be called Lakmos. It just seemed irresistible to get among them, even though I couldn't find any information, so I took the tortuous road to the tiny remote village of Antochori, itself a long drive from Metsovo (although again not far from the motorway, weirdly). A multi-day marked trail called the Epirus trail is in development, so I tried using this initially. In development in this case means no trace of a path! After much thrashing through vegetation, I was burning too many energy matches - exhausting progress, thigh-deep. So I gave up and tried a shepherd's rubble track instead. After a few hundred metres I spied a shallow scree gully which seemed to lead directly upwards to the start of the ridge, so I took it. My instinct was more or less correct: it steepened after 500m or so and became quite hard work, but I persisted and my assumption that the vegetation would diminish was correct. Lots of calling quail below the ridge, which I eventually gained. It was broad but finally gave me an overview. I could see the whole cirque as well as peaks further east. Assuming Lakmos is the main summit, it looked almost Alpine, and I would estimate at least two days for the full traverse, with the possibility of some technical bits. The ridge had a tiny semblance of a path in places and led to the first summit, a huge whaleback when viewed from Metsovo across the valley. It had a cairn, and I transcribed it from Greek as Kalogeros. I think this is 'monk' if my alphabet transcribing is correct! It was a cloudy day, but they didn't really look threatening and I was pleased with the cool weather. I had a yen to continue a little over the ridge but as I descended to the deep col between Kalogeros and the next peak, I saw a distant sheepfold and almost immediately heard dogs barking! There was no way I was going to pass them in the narrow col, so I took it as a sign and contoured the hill away from their sight (I was wearing a red race t-shirt so was very visible!). This worked, and the barking stopped. But it meant a completely trackless and very steep, rocky descent down to a shepherd track. When I reached it I had a rest and a drink before taking various tracks all the way down to the village. Actually, not all the way down as a shepherdess (about the same age as me) stopped to give me a lift in her ancient pick-up, whether I wanted one or not! A lovely gesture, and actually a nice way to save energy as the sun came out and it got predictably hot. An unusual day, very rewarding in a lot of ways, and I would have taken any summit at the start of the day. Potentially a tremendous area for mild exploratory mountaineering.

Kaligomeno Aloni

Peaks: Kaligomeno Aloni (1593m)

Area: Metsovo, Greece

After leaving Meteora, we drove to Thessaloniki and had an urban final night. This morning, I did a swift 5k before a bougatsa breakfast and airport drop-off. Then, the longish drive to Metsovo, which exceeded my expectations. I had chosen it for my first two nights as perhaps the most accessible mountain town in the Pindos, the range which this solo week was intended to explore. But it was delightful, and with a spectacular wild cirque of peaks to the south which I didn't know much, if anything, about. Instead, my intention had been to head to peaks like Flega to the north. I realised after checking in to the characterful Hotel Bitouni (ideal for me) that these were too far away, but I'd got to Metsovo so efficiently (an amazing road from Thessaloniki) that I had time to kill. I found a little circuit above town which I could reach via a steep 3k track. This was part of the Ursus Trail in the tracks of the brown bear, but bears weren't my concern: sheepdogs were. However, I didn't expect an encounter within 10 minutes of setting out on the tamest (and only) marked trail of the week - but that is what happened. At the top of the track, I found the trail and set off, enjoying the relaxed and easy aperitif. Through the first section of woodland I reached a clearing and then came the incident: very loud barking from the trees up left and then four or five huge dogs pelting down the hill towards me, their metal chains dragging along the ground. Time stood still and I thought I would be set upon, but they didn't, just came very close. I could hear an occasional shout from a hidden shepherd and knew enough not to run. I quickened my pace with them snapping at my heels and eventually (but only after a few anxious minutes) the barks faded. After rounding the corner, though, I heard the barks start up again as if two of them had decided to have a second go. They got louder and louder until they were at my heels again! Properly scary, so I upped the pace again and when they faded for a second time, I ran, eating up the ground along the trail passing some side valleys with excellent views of the cirque to the south. That was it, fortunately, and the rest of the trail was tranquil although I was shaken and a little concerned about the feasibility of the rest of the trip given the tame, marked terrain I was on. A short climb through thick woodland gained an open summit with great views to the cirque and over to Flega and the rest further north. I was greatly looking forward to getting acquainted with all of it, and trotted down to the start of the circuit where I had a little rest admiring toads, frogs and lizards that had gathered round a little pond. I trotted down the track to Metsovo but had another canine encounter, this time passing a herd of goats with their 'guard'. who leapt into life and chased me down the track. I calmed down with a beer on the balcony looking out at the rooftops of Metsovo and the surrounding mountains. I refuelled with a local speciality, a kind of stifado with aubergine, veal and metsovo cheese, and a glass of retsina or two.

Meteora circuit

A wonderful walk with Morgan, right from the door of our hotel in Kastraki. Over the past few years, we've developed a tradition of doing a mountain day as part of our family holiday. That was an option this morning, but with the stunning terrain of Meteora on our doorstep it seemed far more sensible to fashion an outing there instead. The day before I had run up the road to the Agiou Stefanou monastery and we had all done a family walk in desperately hot weather to Varlaam. It was a tad cooler this morning, so we found the paths through dark woodland taken in places by the E4, with the towering walls of Altsos hemming us in to the east. I had seen a potential way to reach those peaks, so looked out for it and we took a side path up a spectacular narrow cleft which turned out to be the Lianomodia Couloir. This was somewhat claustrophobic and stifling but short-lived and we soon arrived into the light on a big sun-drenched plinth in a spectacular position surrounded by the Altsos pinnacles and with huge trench valleys ahead and below: memorable. Back down, then round to the descent below the Monastery of the Holy Trinity. This led through an even more narrow cleft to evenutally pick up the standard Trinity Trail and then the first houses on the edge of Kalambaka. One of these was a delightful taverna, so we stopped for local sausages, Greek yoghurt, local honey and freshly-squeezed orange juice. Then back to the ladies in Kastraki. The day after this I did a longer early morning 15k running loop of a similar circuit: absolutely stunning.

Deeside ORGP

Race: Deeside Off-Road Grand Prix (Race 2)

Time/Position: 25.59 (10th from 101 [1st V55])

Given the imminent fortnight in Greece, I made a last minute decision to enter this on the night by way of a final speed session before our very early morning flight. It was a good decision, as I felt fairly good and was pleased with my performance, which wasn't flat out as it's not as if you're going for a specific time. I did the series in 2021 and won my category, and this giant loop anticlockwise was similar to that year's new course, along the banks of the Dee at Shotton, then back through the meadows.