Tsouka/Vikos

Peaks: Tsouka (2251m), Lapatos (2190m)

Area: Zagori, Greece

Scratching around for final morning options from the hut, having already bagged the key summits, this leapt out as the only feasible opportunity. It is basically the end, and highpoint, of the ridge that leads north from the hut and therefore doesn't require a descent. It was satisfying to have already picked off the main objectives, so this was intended as merely a leg stretcher, and obviously those legs were tired. After a decent night's sleep (fewer snorers) I had a leisurely breakfast, dumped my stuff, and set out for Tsouka in cooler weather. There wasn't even a trace of a path as soon as the immediate environs of the hut were left and this set the tone. I tried to contour the early rises as it was obvious that the true summit was some way off. The perfect clarity of yesterday had given way to more hazy and somewhat cooler conditions but the terrain was awkward tussocks until I got to the final col below the real summit of Tsouka at the end of the ridge. I passed a giant sinkhole then a steep section led to the small summit, poised over the escarpment to the north. Superb views down to Trapezitsa and Konitsa, where I was heading next: variegated shades of blue in the morning light. To the right, Smolikas and yesterday's peaks. The mountains along the Albanian border were also impressive, I'd watched the sun set behind them (Tumba maybe?) each night at the hut. Good numbers of Balkan chamois, along with both normal choughs and Alpine choughs. I returned much more directly over the crest of the ridge, well defined in places and with a hint of a path, much easier than my contouring. I took in one or two subsidiary summits (possibly called Lapatos and Koutsomitros) and then picked up my kit at the hut before jogging all the way down to Mikro Papigo (45 minutes at a relaxed pace). After dropping off my kit and recuperating at the car, I wandered through the cobbled alleyways and vines of this archetypal Zagori stone village then did the 6k walk to the edge of the Vikos Gorge, arguably Europe's (even the world's) deepest (by certain measures) and a wonderful sight. From the far end, you can see down to the blue waters of the Voidomatis river far below. I was conscious I was only scratching the surface of the gorge, so to speak, but a partial view was better than nothing. I tried to recuperate with a dip in the rock pools, but they were ruined by a party of 50 or more noisy Israelis so I beat a hasty retreat to Aristi. Here I had a superb lunch of gigantes beans with local greens and herbs, looking back up at Astraka and Tsouka, this morning's peak, a giant whaleback from the village. I could even see the hut, a speck on the high col, as the weather closed in and thunder rolled around.