Glitterheim hut-Memurubu hut

Peaks: Sjurgurdtinden (1305m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

This was a wonderful route through magnificent terrain. The scenery evolved constantly and every step was enjoyable, in weather that gradually improved throughout the day. From Glitterheim I had to retrace steps back up to the Hesterlaegerhoe pass, but this was no bad thing as the high plateau is such a magnetic, atmospheric place. The cloudbase was gradually lifting as I crested the pass and moved quite quickly over the boulder fields eventually branching off decisively down Blatjonn for Memurubu, with Russvatnet shimmering below. Ahead, Besshoe with its gigantic western rock ramparts still draped in mist. A superb fast flowing river (the Blatjonn I assume) was crossed by a bridge, and then the path gradually descends to the lake shore and follows this inexorably towards a superbly alluring narrowing of the valley which is blocked by the foot of Gloptinden, a low but impressive pyramidal peak that I had mild designs on. A burst of sunshine lit the narrow valley opening as I approached it near the isolated hut of Blackwellbue (named after an English climber I think), a huge waterfall coming down from Surtingsue on the right. This gave access to Nedre Russglopet, the narrow valley, although there was no obvious way up Gloptinden from here sadly. After a drink, the route climbs to a high col, the climax of the route, and then sudden spectacular views down to Lake Gjende. At that point the sun came out, alongside a light shower, creating an incredible play of light. I was looking down at the ridge that forms a continuation of Besseggen to the end of the lake at Gjendebu. I wondered about taking in another peak up here, but eventually decided to descend to Memurubu, which nestles in a stunning location on green meadows half way along Gjende. Good job I did, as another massive school party was taking up all the rooms again, the same as Glitterheim last night! I did eventually get a bed in one of the original (C19?) wooden buildings well away from the main hut, which was perfect and hugely atmospheric, with views over the lake and up to the peak of Eggen and a giant waterfall coming down from a hanging valley. The weather was now decisively clearing for the first time so I made my way up to the obvious mini-peak of Sjurgurdtinden which towers above, and is highly reminiscent of the Lake District. I was up it in no time, a lovely extension of the day, and spent a memorable half hour on the summit enjoying a genuinely stunning panorama across the lake, up to Besseggen and Besshoe, and down to the Memurudalen valley.

Glittertind

Peaks: Glittertind (2452m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

Once upon a time, Glittertind competed with neighbouring Galdhoppigen for the title of the highest mountain in Scandinavia (and northern Europe). Now, however, it is decisively second, as the summit ice-cap has melted in recent years. It made an obvious objective from the Glitterheim hut, which lies below it, although the weather this morning was much worse than the forecast (unlike yesterday, which turned out better than the dreadful forecast suggested). It is a vast, bulky peak, and the cloud base was low although views over the atmospheric lake of Nedre Steinbuvann were superb, with mist draping the high mountain cwm that contains it. Glittertind is a fair old slog up bouldery moraine material, and the wet weather didn't help. It was never especially heavy though, and higher up the SE ridge becomes better defined with misty views over the northern and eastern glaciers which remain pretty extensive. I wasn't feeling as sharp as usual and it took two hours to get to the rather bleak summit, marked by a couple of wooden planks. An unusual experience followed, as I had to do quite a lot of admin and route planning (because I had a signal for the first time since Gjendesheim, there was nothing at the hut). This took a while, and I was pretty cold by the time I'd finished! After all the logistics, I stuck to 'plan a' again, and descended back to the Glitterheim hut rather than traversing to Spiterstulen. Also, because of the weather, I opted not to extend the route to Riggehoe, which was definitely the right decision as, if anything, the weather worsened as I descended. By the time I reached the lake it was raining fairly heavily, which was a shame as I really wanted to explore it and have lunch there. I did this anyway, but it was a bit soggy. Still a spectacular location though.

Gjendesheim hut-Glitterheim hut

Peaks: Vestre Hestlaegerhoe (1758m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

After yesterday's aperitif, the main business began here in light rain and low cloud. This was always forecast to be the worst day of weather, to the point that I seriously considered changing my plans and just getting the boat to Gjendebu. In the event though, I stuck to 'plan a', as some kind of clearance seemed likely after midday. After a very nice breakfast, I started from Gjendesheim in light rain: the route starts to climb immediately up to the first pass and junction with the very popular Bessegen ridge. Some stunning views over Gjende and the cloud-draped walls of Besseggen, until I entered the clag at the pass. Even this was atmospheric though, with crags looming out of the mist on the left. The rain was fairly light, and there was very little wind (and it was quite mild) so my weather 'rules' complied. Quite suddenly, the outflow of Bessvatnet lake appeared just below the cloudbase. I crossed a little bridge and then the route gently descended through wild terrain until a spectacular clearance saw Nautgardstinden appear above the clouds. A wet descent led to the huge lake of Russvatnet, which would become quite familiar over the next few days. Another suspension bridge crossed the rapids of Saubue which led down a beautiful valley to the east, and two or three huts along the shoreline (Russvassbue). The route hugged the banks of the lake for a while before starting to climb up a shallow stream valley to a rickety monkey bridge over a small gorge. I had a snack here, and a tiny hint of sunshine peeked through the clouds as the ramparts of mighty Besshoe across the lake appeared through tendrils of mist. Above this, I made the biggest mistake of the trip, opting to follow the marked Blatjonn route to Glitterheim rather than the steeper Tjonnholae 'shortcut' which would have made for a more satisfying tour (because the marked route took in more of the terrain I would have to repeat on the return journey). It wasn't a big problem though, as this takes in some memorable and spectacular terrain. I contoured the hillside as the rain began again and eventually gained the vast bouldery plateau with huge views up to the eastern peaks and cwms of Surtningssue, a massive and complex massif. The plateau is an extraordinary place, high-up, awkward underfoot and very atmospheric. No doubt the standard route comes this way because there isn't that much elevation gain required to access the key pass, the Hestlaegerhoe. It is tiring through, because of the rocky terrain, and I suspect some people really struggle here (conversations at the hut suggested that was indeed the case). I felt OK, although I'd covered 20k or so, and decided to nip up to the side peak of Vestre Hestlaegerhoe which was just above, partly because the weather was clearing again. This was the lower of two rounded, minor summits either side of the key pass. The rock was mossy and untravelled but I got to the cairn easily and then descended back to the pass: it was, as ever, satisfying to take in a summit, even a minor one. The terrain continues rocky and awkward down Hestbekken to the stunning valley of the Veo river, the Glitterheim hut nestled at the base. Above, Glittertind itself was emerging from the mist, my target for tomorrow. To the left, at the top of this magnificent wild valley was Leirhoe, still glaciated. It was now brighter again, and in some ways I didn't want to reach the hut! It is highly circuitous to get to anyway, because of the amount of water and braided river channels throughout this valley (24k/1100m, just over five hours). A relaxing afternoon and evening followed before a stupendous meal of cured trout, reindeer heart sausage, carpaccio, and much more. It rained all night but I was cosily ensconced by then.

Knutshoe

Peaks: Knutshoe (1517m)

Area: Jotunheimen, Norway

Knutshoe is a perfect miniature mountain which gave an ideal start to my Jotunheimen trip. This was my return to the Norwegian mountains after 35 years away. My university expeditions to Okstinden in 1989 and 1991 had an enormous impact on me, it's probably not an exaggeration to say that in many ways they changed my life. I assumed I would return to Norway regularly, but I suppose I was lured away by many other (cheaper) mountain ranges worldwide. So the return was long overdue, particularly as it is so easy to get to the Jotunheimen, making it ridiculous that this was my first visit. After weeks of glorious weather, I was unlucky in the sense that the weather changed when I arrived. In fact persistent rain was forecast from around 5pm, so as soon as I saw Knutshoe from the Oslo bus, free of cloud and sitting in the landscape as a perfect little ridge, I asked the driver to drop me off at Vargebakken, and then it was straight into it at around 2pm. Cloud draped the higher Bessegen ridge across Lake Gjende and was very threatening over the bigger peaks to the west, but Knutshoe remained clear. The little birch trees, lichen and juniper immediately bought memories flooding back and I immediately felt at home in the landscape. The route is level for a while and then comes the first rise to gain the long ridge which forms the mountain. This is the steepest part of the entire route and actually has a couple of tricky scrambling moves, perhaps even grade 2 or 3, up a sort of open book groove below a steep wall. It doesn't last long and gives way to a broad ridge up which I made quick progress, trying to get up before the rain, which now seemed inevitable. It goes up and down a bit to gain a final forepeak before a descent. Then comes the last steep scramble on good rock, really enjoyable, to the true summit. Extraordinary views down to Ovre Leirungen, a turqouise lake and valley which feeds into the famous Lake Gjende, which I could also see. The ambience was stunning with black clouds draped around the higher peaks, plunging waterfalls, the two lakes, and across to big interior peaks like Storend. The modern description for this is 'epic', probably apt in this instance, and I couldn't believe it has taken me 35 years to come back. It started to rain as soon as I started the descent but never developed beyond light showers, meaning the tricky downclimb was fine with a bit of thought. At the base I had to get to Gjendesheim so took a side path through boggy birch woodland and a path along the eastern banks of Nedre Leirungen with perfect views back to Knutshoe. I had to regain the road where the Sjoe river feeds into the Gjende, exhilarating meltwater, to loop back to the packed Gjendesheim hut where I had to spend the night on a sofa in the lower lounge after feasting on superb reindeer stew. It rained heavily from 5pm, incredibly atmospheric views from the hut across the black lake.

Bochlwyd climbing

Crag: Clogwyn Bochlwyd

Routes: Wall Climb (HS 4b:sec), Arete and Slab (D:led), One Pitch Route (VS 4c:sec), Chimney Climb Direct (HS 4b:sec), Two Pitch Route (S:sec)

A venue I have visited many times, but even though I was largely just a passenger again today I did a couple of variations I don't think I've done before. Peter kicked off with Wall Climb in disappointing weather: cool, almost cold, and unexpectedly windy. It gives a great pitch, quite stiff for the grade, which I remembered fairly well although it must be decades since I led it. A ramp goes left to a steep wall with some great climbing on sharp holds up to a ledge. Above this, after a steep crux pull the angle eases. Nice pitch, windy throughout but Peter was experimenting with mini walkie-talkies which worked really well. I then led the easy Arete and Slab which I've done many times before, including solo, up a steep crack on enormous holds to the slabbier finish. I don't think I've ever done One Pitch Route before, and enjoyed following Peter up it. Essentially an eliminate, it goes up to Marble Slab before sidling leftwards along a horizontal crack to a short and surprisingly technical crux with little for the feet. After lunch we got on the old Eryri classic, Chimney Climb. I hate to think how long ago I did this with Tim: 35 years perhaps? It was so dry that Peter did the direct version, which goes up a black, mossy crack - presumably usually horribly damp but today dry and climbable. It gives a steep layback to the ledge, after which an awkward steep move over the obstruction leads to the easier upper chimney - I remembered this from all those years ago. Finally, we did the mild severe Two Pitch Route which I've done many times before.

Crewe parkrun

'Race': Crewe parkrun

Time/Position: 18.47 (8th from 432)

Eight hours in Crewe: does it get any better? This kicked the day off and was an encouraging performance by recent standards, particularly given my lack of current mileage. Queens Park in Crewe is delightful, it must be one of the most scenic urban parks in the region, and the parkrun takes three laps of it. It is tight and twisting, with a few little climbs, but all on tarmac paths. I worked my way up the field after a quickish first lap and felt reasonably good until the sprint finish, which was a little way beyond where I expected it to be! After breakfast I then headed off for a bike ride to Mow Cop, incorporating the killer mile. I was a minute slower than my 'on foot' time recorded in March and - unlike the Cheshire Cat sportive in 2011 - I failed to do it one go and essentially chickened out of the ludicrously steep section near where the pub used to be. In the 2011 sportive I did stay upright on my triple and have a medal and photo to show for it! I then rode back via Kidsgrove, where I got lost in a council estate, and then an awful short section of the A500 before getting to Barthomley and back to Crewe Green in time for the football, part three of the Crewe day.

Holt to Horseshoe 75k

A nice way of incorporating the Alpine-style ascent of the Horseshoe from Llangollen via a long warm-up. A very long warm-up really, from home to Holt and then south to Cross Lanes via a closed road and the continuation along Kiln Lane to Eyton. From here, the character changes as the route heads west to Johnstown and Ruabon before heading to Llangollen. I had a cheese pastie and then despatched the climb, which didn't go as well as it should have done given my Alpine training! Home via Bwlchgwyn and Cefn y Bedd.

St Asaph 90k loop

Another variant on the Tour de Flintshire concept, although this one contained substantial chunks of Denbighshire! I will have to work a Flanders-style 'Ronde' maximising the climbs one day. This morning I rode to Mold via Padeswood, then Peter joined me for the climb through Cadole and up to Penbarras from the gentle side (unlike my trials up the other side last week). This is still quite steep towards the top, and the descent is so steep that it isn't very relaxing with my skinny tyres. Below, the Vale of Clwyd looked more like Almeria with baked yellow fields throughout. We rode along the quiet lanes through Gellifor and Llandyrnog to Bodfari, where we went out seperate ways: Peter back to Mold and me to St Asaph. I put in a bit of an effort from Trefnant crossroads to St Asaph cathedral - 6.04 at 32.6km/h, but I was held up at the lights to be fair so most of it was 36km/h which by my standards is good. A lovely lunch in St Asaph was perfect fuelling for the return up Rhuallt hill to the quiet lanes through Babell and Halkyn, descending to Mold and home via Pontblyddyn.

Carreg y Foel Gron

Crag: Carreg y Foel Gron, Moelwynion

Routes: Shark's Fin (HS 4b:sec), Slab Direct (E1 5a:sec), Too Many Children (VS 4c:sec), Elephant's Walk Direct (HS 4b:sec), Skinny Arete (VD:led)

I was passenger for most of the day today, for several very good reasons. It is a nice venue, I remember playing around on this crag a few years ago with a shunt and maybe some soloing. We went to the upper tier first, where Peter led the obvious plum line of the Shark's Fin. If this was two or three times longer it would be a total classic. As it is, a shuffle up and right gains the arete which is climbed in a lovely position. It is much easier than it looks. The upper tier has a delightful tranquil atmosphere, with views of the central Moelwynion, and the rock is perfect: rough, unpolished and wonderfully textured. Slab Direct was also good with some tricky finishing moves straight up the obvious feature (which gets steep at the top). A lovely VS crackline finished our business here, another route which would be a famous classic if only it was longer. The lower tier is far more popular and often has groups on it. The rock is still excellent and rough though, and the direct on Elephant's Walk gave a great pitch which I may have done before: wonderful holds and pleasant cracks. Finally, I led the easy but enjoyable line of Skinny Arete which goes up a very gentle slab before pulling comfortably on to a steeper but short final ridge. Plenty of time for a pint in the Albion before collecting Kate.

Alderford Lake parkrun

'Race': Alderford Lake parkrun

Time/Position: 18.59 (3rd from 196)

An unexpected V55 age group course record, probably due to perfect underfoot conditions rather than any kind of 'speed'! It is a lovely course, two laps around a delightfully tranquil tree-lined lake - a bit like a more scenic version of Park in the Past. As we are in a drought, the ground is rock hard so although this course is all off-road (grass and dusty paths) and quite tortuous I was able to maintain a decent pace, at least on the first lap. It is the 257th running of this parkrun so the course record was a surprise. Another beautiful sunny morning, not too hot.

Penmaenbach climbing

Crag: Penmaenbach

Routes: Agent Orange (f5c:led), Silly A55 Arete (f6a+:sec), Jack A55 Slab (f4c:led)

For completion.

Clwydian climbs ride

It has been many years since I did the fearsome Old Bwlch from Llanbedr DC. It is undoubtedly one of the hardest climbs in the region, and more or less the exact opposite of the Galibier (which I did exactly three weeks ago). I thought it would be bleakly comic to mark that three week anniversary by doing a climb that it is ten times shorter, far less glamorous, and twice as steep! I took the Padeswood lanes to get to Mold, then the climbing diversion to avoid the main road through Rhydymwyn and then the standard Moel Arthur climb from Nannerch. This was despatched in 14 minutes, not too terrible, and then came the steep descent down to the Vale. From here, a gentle spin along to Llanbedr before starting the climb up Penbarras. This is straight and steep, and gets steeper once the houses are left behind. It then rears up intimidatingly, reaching a savage 20% for 100 metres until a cattle grid and the famed 25% hairpin bend. This is a real fight, but marks the end of the hardest riding, giving way to a more standard finish. Again, this kicks up to 14% at the end. I reached Penbarras in 16 minutes, which is two minutes slower than my running time for the same climb from the village set just a few months ago! Fast descending to Mold, then through Pontblyddyn to Rhyddyn hill and home: 56k/1000m.