Glyder Fach winter climbs

Peaks: Glyder Fach
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
Routes: Gribin gully (wI), False Gribin (wI), Gribin (wII)
A good spell of winter weather saw a decent dump of snow over NE Wales. Seemed considerably more localised over Snowdonia, but met Alwyn under superb blue skies and the prospect of a little more daylight. Snow level was down to the road, but conditions were very variable. Some cwms packed with a mixture of neve and unconsolidated snow, some with just soft new snow. Some ridges heavily rimed and in full condition, others stripped by the wind. We opted to slog up into Cwm Bochlwyd, and make a further assessment. The lake was iced up, although the snow was mainly unconsolidated as we approached the face. Central gully (II/III) looked to be in good condition and seemed a good choice, lots of little steps, not remotely serious. We roped up and I led most of the first pitch before sadly coming to the conclusion that it just wasn't in condition: just new snow over verglas. So I downclimbed awkwardly and we spied another option on the east face of the Gribin ridge. In these conditions, this is an excellent remote feeling face with loads of mild mountaineering options. We took a shallow, easy-angled wI gully on the right-hand side. Luckily, the snow here was perfect, in direct contrast to Central Gully, and led elegantly up to a narrowing and a little pitch to gain False Gribin (wI) just below the steeper part. More good snow led interestingly up to a long snowfield, excellent cramponing, and lunch in the sunshine (at last). The rest of the Gribin was splendid. Probably the 3rd time I've done it in winter conditions, but the fullest and best. Thick consolidated snow, iced rock, gave simple but absorbing mountaineering-style ascent up to a sunny ridge with beautiful windslab formations in the snow. Kept crampons on for the crossing of Glyder Fach and the steep descent down to Bwlch Tryfan. Iron hard snow throughout this section.