Cime de la Maledie

Peaks: Cime de la Maledie (3059m/10036ft)
Area: Maritime Alps, Provence
Route: NW Face/Voie Normale (PD/uI+)
This magnificent peak is perhaps the most striking on the French side of the Maritime Alps and has been on my target list for many years. It was the obvious choice for a short and intense pre-breakfast outing from the Refuge du Nice. I left Kate and the children sleeping and crept out of the hut in the half-light at 5.40am: no need for 3am starts in the Maritime Alps, particularly this late in the summer. The route round the lake was easy to follow, well-cairned, as is the continuation up to Lac Long - presumably because it is also taken by the normal route up Gelas from the hut. This all helped, as it stayed dark for longer than I'd expected, and I was rewarded by a stunning red sky over Chamineye and Capelet. I was also very struck by the view back to yesterday's peak, Cime Nire, which appears as a spectacular leaning spire of rock from the entry to the wide valley containing Lac Long. Maledie towers above at this point, and the traverse remains relatively easy to follow up to the obvious problematic slabby rock band which guards entry to the upper cwms below the summit. It all added to the intrigue and enjoyment: steep slopes lead up to an intimidating side cwm, followed by a switchback to the east - tricky route-finding - which leads below a steep rock spur to slip into the little valley below the crucial Pas de Maledie (guarded from below by the rock-band). This little cwm was less intimidating than the one I'd left, but very atmospheric, and I rapidly gained the obvious steep couloir leading to the Pas. This gave some fine scrambling, around II, and was relatively solid. At the top of the Pas, I passed into Italy and gained a broad shelf of scree and stunning views over a cloud inversion in the Italian valleys. Monte Viso towered above the cloud, which the low sun had coloured orange, and vague distant glimpses of Gran Paradiso and Monte Rosa were satisfying, as I've climbed both. I was expecting a long traverse below the north face of Maledie - but actually the crucial summit couloir is reached after a couple of hundred metres. An arete, below a big drop, marks the line - the only feasible route of ascent. After a short rocky wall above the remains of a snowfield (which is much bigger earlier in the season), very loose scree and moraine dust leads to another short wall (II). Above lies more insecure scree and the spectacular small summit (90m from hut). This gave me a few of the more memorable minutes of my many visits to the peaks of the Mercantour: truly stunning views over the cloud inversion to the east. Clapier surprisingly impressive, as were all the other mountains I've previously climbed in this small but superb area: Capelet, Gelas, Ponset, Bego et al. I reckon I've climbed more than 30 Maritime Alps peaks since our ascent of Gelas in 1994. The descent of the couloir was distinctly unpleasant, down loose and steep scree, but it went OK - as did the scrambling down from the Pas. A brief breakfast of a tiny cereal bar in the sunshine above Lac Long, and I jogged back to meet the family by Lac de la Fous by 8.30am. A short but intense outing! All the family enjoyed the walk-down considerably more than the walk-up, and we enjoyed a superb lunch of wild trout and mountain herbs at the Gite in St Grat later. Cloud rolled in during the afternoon, and an atmospheric storm enlivened the evening meal.