Longland's Climb, Cloggy

Crag: Clogwyn du'r Arddu, Yr Wyddfa
Routes: Longland's Climb (VS 4a,4b,4a,4c:led p.1,2,5)
One of the grand old Welsh classics and only the second time I've climbed on this, the greatest of all Welsh crags. We had initially planned to do some shorter routes on the steep East Buttress, but such is the nature of this long-running heatwave that a big route on West Buttress just seemed more appropriate. Longland's was the first route to breach this face in 1928, and gives a tremendous route up a series of intricate narrow slabs on the left of the cliff. I found it more sustained, slightly better, and probably a tad more serious than Great Slab, which we did two years ago. The adventure begins immediately, with the scramble along the East Terrace to gain a wet and vegetated approach line that goes up behind a big flake. We roped up for the airy move round this flake to a good thread in an already exposed position. I led up the first narrow slab. A mildly tricky start gains a good flake then easy and enjoyable climbing in a nice position up the slab, poised above the Black Cleft to the left. The dry weather meant that even the crack on the right of the slab was dry, lending itself to some cam placements. I couldn't find a decent belay where the slab narrowed into a chimney where the right wall closes in, so continued up the second pitch as the slab steepens slightly up sharp flakes to a good nut placement. Then comes the crux, right at the top of this giant 40m pitch: small holds lead to the top of the slab then a surprisingly tricky mantelshelf in a superb position pulling out of the slab to the right, then up more easily to a poor belay. Vic's pitch was equally long, better and more coherent than we'd expected. The guide suggests it is broken and chossy, but it's actually good straitforward slabby climbing in a superb position high on the cliff. This leads to a big ledge with numerous flakes: above which the final pitch rises intimidatingly. Steep moves up a vague arete poised above a lot of space beyond the right edge of the ledge leads via a surprisingly awkward pinch grip and hard pull up (for the grade) to a huge jug, which leads to more good holds then easier climbing up right towards a final awkward slanting chimney. I led a final fifth pitch up the broken rib which leads to a wide couloir and the top. A long descent down the Eastern Terrace: all quite atmospheric, and much more secure than the Western Terrace we descended in 2011. Thirsty and hungry, we were glad to traverse right down good scrambling sections to the sacs. After a late lunch, we decided that swimming in usually freezing, dark, atmospheric Llyn du'r Arddu was a better prize than another route - so scampered down the screes and plunged in. Chilly, but not unacceptable.