Clogwyn y Tarw climbing

Crag: Clogwyn y Tarw (Gribin Facet), Ogwen
Routes: Slab Direct Route (VD:led), Llyn (HS 4b:sec), Slab Climb (D:led), Yob Route (HVS 5a:sec)
A frustrating few weeks, watching the wonderful weather come and go with no opportunities to get out climbing. At last, I managed to grab a short evening session in Ogwen with Vic today, although low cloud made it less summery of late. It was, however, bone dry for my first visit to this crag for well over 20 years. I hadn't led trad since last September, so needed easy mileage. As such, Slab Direct was perfect - a well protected crack and a long 50m pitch up the right-hand side of the big slab, just under the steep retaining wall. Great to be back, albeit on a geriatric, very easy climb. Just concentrated on the placements and ropework, and enjoyed the simple movement across easy rock. It finishes up an open groove. Still rather cool and cloudy as I followed Vic up Llyn. I have a memory of doing this before: a nice route albeit rather short. It's easier than it looks, as long as you use your brain! There are a few steep moves on good holds to gain the wide groove - almost a chimney higher up. A thrutch up this allows for more elegant moves up the edge of the groove to the thread. Then some elegant semi-back and footing as the groove becomes a chimney. I led the easy but nicely exposed final pitches (3 and 4) of Slab Climb to finish, keeping to the left-hand edge. Rather polished but pleasant: and a walk down memory lane as it was one of the first routes I ever did, almost a quarter of a century ago. The descent between the two buttresses is surprisingly awkward. After lunch, we did Yob Route. This is a splendid pitch: long, sustained and varied. An easy slanting crack leads to a mini-groove. This is hard to exit, tricky moves up and left on small holds, but gives access to a lovely straight crack/groove. Nice sustained VS climbing up this before a hard finish. This, for me, was the only problem with the route: it is disjointed, as the crux at the very top seemed much harder than the rest of the route (which was sustained meaty VS climbing). The crux is 5a/5b and involves an awkward smear for a very high hold on the left. My left arm is weak at the best of times, never mind after months off climbing! So a strenuous and ungainly haul got me to the belay. Abbed off to avoid the descent for a third time.