Crag: Sax, Alicante, Spain
Routes: Blanes (f4+,4+:sec), Andurina (f6a:led), Tupungato (f5,5+:led p.1), Carrasco (f5:sec)
This was our 'airport crag', but as the flight home was so late it gave us plenty of time to sample yet another superb venue. Quite different in atmosphere to the more mountainous crags further east, Sax is essentially a group of high pyramids of impeccable pocketed limestone. It felt rather like Tremadog in scale and feel: although the views stretched out over a baked yellow valley dotted with almond orchards. The routes are relatively long, often two long pitches. We took the classic Blanes to get a feel for the climbing: the easiest and strongest natural line on the crag. Dave led a long pitch up a slabby rib, with a short bulge overcome with a steep but positive crack. Vic then led up a steep wall, followed by a long series of wide grooves to the top. I stayed as middle-man for this route. The descent takes a narrow and briefly exposed ridge down to a steep chimney, quite entertaining. After a bite to eat, Steve, Dave and Vun arrived. I went for the harder line of Andurina, which looked technical to start. It was indeed: a steep slab gave some great sequences and thought-provoking moves to a hard crux over a mild bulge. This involved a perfect shallow finger pocket and tenuous smears: felt 6b at least. Good friction helped as there was very little for the feet, even with high steps. The route eases at 15m, but stays interesting as another bulge has to be overcome before gaining superb honeycombed rock and big jugs at the upper wall. Another long, excellent pitch. The second pitch is less interesting, so I lowered off. This gave us time for Tupungato, which the other party had done but only to the cave stance. I led the first pitch, which went at a mild f5/VS 4c but was an abolutely superb pitch up slabby rock to a glorious upper red slab on little incut holds. Just wonderful relaxed climbing, absorbing and continually interesting as it slanted rightwards towards the big cave, but never difficult. I brought Dave and Vic up to the cave, and Vic then led the steeper and dramatically contrasting top pitch. This went via exciting moves left of the overhang at the top of the cave to gain a second cave and another pulsating move round a small overhang. Above, a very rough slab with holds like shards of glass (reminiscent of parts of Chateaudouble) led in another big 40m pitch to the top. Another three star classic HVS/E1. After another descent to the base, we were tiring. But light cloud made it cooler in the evening air, and there was just time for Dave to lead one last pitch. He went for a big one: a monster 40m route up the detached pinnacle that rose from an intriguing giant cleft right of the main face. This was an old route, Carrasco, which picked its way up a fairly intimidating piece of rock. It gave yet another excellent pitch, but was at the outer limit of a feasible lower-off (with our gigantic 80m rope!). A steep initial wall was exited by way of a sharp flake crack up to the right. A long slab then gained an upper wall which was climbed on more painfully sharp flake holds and pockets. A long and awkward lower-off into the depths of the cleft. There were other mouth-watering routes on this section of crag, but our stomachs demanded a trip to the town of Sax, where cheap pork steaks and chips fortified us before the drive to the airport.
Monday, March 30, 2015
Sunday, March 29, 2015
Echo Valley climbing
Crag: Val de Guadar/Echo Valley, Costa Blanca, Spain
Routes: Espolon Alderlon (f4+:sec), Romero's Birthday (f4+:sec), Synovial (f5:sec), Phalanges (f5+:led), Marian Jones (f6a:sec), Sin Chapa (f6a:led), Pro-Wire (f3:sol), Regalo por Ali (f5:sec), X.M.A.S. (f6a:sec), Phantom (f5+:sec)
It seemed prudent to opt for a single pitch venue after yesterday's monster outing. Scouring the guidebook, Echo Valley seemed to offer a number of advantages: it wasn't far away from our cabin, and seemed likely to offer relaxed and unpolished routes. After breakfast on the fringes of Benidorm, we headed up to the valley: another extraordinary oasis, beautiful tranquility just minutes away from the bustle and unpleasantness of the coast. Echo 1.5 is a newly bolted venue, offering modestly graded routes and the kind of soothing climbing we needed. The lower crag was very short, so we headed to the upper crag and were pleased to find a nice sweep of limestone, rather like a smaller version of Sella but without the polish. It was still a good 30m/100ft high, though, and looked much better than I'd expected. The views over the huge neighbouring crags of Ponoch and down to Calpe and the Med were magnificent. The weather was getting progressively warmer: 22C today and not a cloud in the deep blue sky, but with occasional sea breezes it was quite delightful. Two easy climbs on the left gave a good warm-up, before I seconded Dave up the pleasant Synovial at f5. I opted for Phalanges, a grade harder at f5+, and to my surprise it proved a magnificent outing. A steep slab, just my cup of tea, with superb small incut holds and tiny pockets, led to a small ledge 20 metres up. Sustained and technical up to this point, with some reachy moves, but solutions were always there. Above, the route steepens, but the bulge is overcome on gigantic holds. Superb jugs lead to the lower-off. A tremendous pitch for the grade, as good if not better than anything else on this trip: three stars would not be an exaggeration of its quality as single pitches go. Dave then led the 6a further left: this had a scrappy start, slightly dirty, followed by a short layback leading to technical crack climbing. Low in the grade and not quite the same quality, but worthwhile. I then had a bash at Sin Chapa, a 6a+ and a bit of an eliminate. This was in a similar vein to Phalanges, sustained climbing on small holds and smears. It went well to the top ledge but I didn't fancy the crux 6a+ move from the ledge (mainly because the bolting meant I would have landed on the ledge if I'd fluffed it!). So I used the lower chain to get down. After some excellent tuna and onion empenadas, we moved down to the lower tier as the sun began to sink behind the mountains further up the valley. This was nowhere near as good, but the f5 up the obvious shallow groove, which Vic led, was good. Two soft touch short routes at 6a and 5+ pushed the count to ten, and we retired to the cabin for salmon, lentil and chorizo stew, and kebabs.
Routes: Espolon Alderlon (f4+:sec), Romero's Birthday (f4+:sec), Synovial (f5:sec), Phalanges (f5+:led), Marian Jones (f6a:sec), Sin Chapa (f6a:led), Pro-Wire (f3:sol), Regalo por Ali (f5:sec), X.M.A.S. (f6a:sec), Phantom (f5+:sec)
It seemed prudent to opt for a single pitch venue after yesterday's monster outing. Scouring the guidebook, Echo Valley seemed to offer a number of advantages: it wasn't far away from our cabin, and seemed likely to offer relaxed and unpolished routes. After breakfast on the fringes of Benidorm, we headed up to the valley: another extraordinary oasis, beautiful tranquility just minutes away from the bustle and unpleasantness of the coast. Echo 1.5 is a newly bolted venue, offering modestly graded routes and the kind of soothing climbing we needed. The lower crag was very short, so we headed to the upper crag and were pleased to find a nice sweep of limestone, rather like a smaller version of Sella but without the polish. It was still a good 30m/100ft high, though, and looked much better than I'd expected. The views over the huge neighbouring crags of Ponoch and down to Calpe and the Med were magnificent. The weather was getting progressively warmer: 22C today and not a cloud in the deep blue sky, but with occasional sea breezes it was quite delightful. Two easy climbs on the left gave a good warm-up, before I seconded Dave up the pleasant Synovial at f5. I opted for Phalanges, a grade harder at f5+, and to my surprise it proved a magnificent outing. A steep slab, just my cup of tea, with superb small incut holds and tiny pockets, led to a small ledge 20 metres up. Sustained and technical up to this point, with some reachy moves, but solutions were always there. Above, the route steepens, but the bulge is overcome on gigantic holds. Superb jugs lead to the lower-off. A tremendous pitch for the grade, as good if not better than anything else on this trip: three stars would not be an exaggeration of its quality as single pitches go. Dave then led the 6a further left: this had a scrappy start, slightly dirty, followed by a short layback leading to technical crack climbing. Low in the grade and not quite the same quality, but worthwhile. I then had a bash at Sin Chapa, a 6a+ and a bit of an eliminate. This was in a similar vein to Phalanges, sustained climbing on small holds and smears. It went well to the top ledge but I didn't fancy the crux 6a+ move from the ledge (mainly because the bolting meant I would have landed on the ledge if I'd fluffed it!). So I used the lower chain to get down. After some excellent tuna and onion empenadas, we moved down to the lower tier as the sun began to sink behind the mountains further up the valley. This was nowhere near as good, but the f5 up the obvious shallow groove, which Vic led, was good. Two soft touch short routes at 6a and 5+ pushed the count to ten, and we retired to the cabin for salmon, lentil and chorizo stew, and kebabs.
Saturday, March 28, 2015
Espolon Central
Peak/Crag: Puig Campana, Costa Blanca, Spain
Routes: Espolon Central Direct (uD+/VS 4b f3+,4+,3+,3+,1,4,4,4+,1,4+,4+,4,4: led p.1,3,5,7,9)
This was the route we wanted, and the one that persuaded me to come out here for a few days. The Puig dominates this part of the the Costa Blanca and towers above our 'home' village of Finestrat. The most striking line, Espolon Central is a fairly easy climb, but gives a notoriously long and tiring day (450m/1600ft and 14 pitches), so an early start seemed sensible. Not early by Alpine standards though, so after a substantial breakfast we drove the short distance to the start of the walk-in (we could see part of the route from our cabin east of Finestrat). It was cool, around 7am, and we made excellent progress along an indirect (incorrect?) line, part of the mountain circuit, before heading direct up a shallow valley to the base of the direct start. Less than 40 minutes to the start, rather than the guide time of an hour, which boded well for a reasonably quick ascent. As a rope of three, however, progress would inevitably be slower. We used a single 80m rope, alternating leads with one man in the middle - planning to swap the middle man at the 'lunch ledge', nine pitches up. It was a good plan, and worked well. I led off up the first pitch of the direct start, placing wires for the first time in many months - quite a route for a trad shakedown! Good rough limestone, not polished. Dave's pitch was a little harder, and went up a groove briefly before traversing left to the arete. Nice moves to the belay. I continued up the third pitch, up slabby grooves and tubes, great rock and surprisingly continuous climbing. We'd polished off the Direct Start (a three pitch route in itself!) in around an hour, so things were looking good for an efficient ascent. Dave then led a long traverse up a series of slabs and grooves to a gully, and I continued across the gully to finally gain the base of the long and slender ridge itself (five pitches in!). It was still a little cool as we were on the shady side of the narrow ridge. The route gets more exposed quite quickly as the ridge begins - Dave led pitch six up blocky rock, giving me the next pitch as the route becomes spectacular for the first time, and develops a real mountain ambiance. I moved right up steep but wonderfully juggy rock, over a lot of space, then straight up the front of the ridge: superb relaxed climbing up big flakes and large holds. Excellent nut protection with threads and slings where needed. Great easy pitch, but eclipsed by the next pitch, which leaves a perfect flat ledge to traverse left to gain a long groove/chimney. This is much easier than it looks - a bit of thoughtful bridging and searching for holds helps - and gives continuous interest to the big 'lunch ledge', which we reached at 11.30 after less than four hours climbing. I then switched to the middle of the rope and led a short scramble to the base of a large and complex wall that gives access to the upper (final section) of the ridge. This gave a splendid VS 4b/c pitch, quite slabby with a granite/Ogwen feel to it. A crack slanted left then right with small positive holds giving way to more blocks and jugs. The stance was spectacular, a little ledge poised above the ridge - the views were now stupendous. Warm sunshine, crystal clear, deep blue skies: the Med was directly in front with the tower blocks of Benidorm a constant, but distant, feature. All the local peaks and crags were visible: Sella, Castellets and so on, with Finestrat directly below. Vic then took the lead, which we prudently split given the shortness of the rope. A short horizontal ridge to a belay below a deep fissure. This was easily the crux of the route for me, partly because I'd taken over ownership of the heaviest sac as middle man. It dragged me outwards for the horrible thrutch at the top of the deep groove, flailing for pinch holds on the outer walls. By far the most polished rock of the entire route too: it was all eerily reminiscent of my experience on the crux pitches of the Grand Parcours at Sainte Victoire. Indeed, in its length and general 'feel', that route (done with Vic in 2012) was an obvious point of comparison (this route was less technical, slightly shorter, but far more sustained). Above, another spectacular stance - a small ledge poised above 1000ft of ridge with the Mediterranean directly in front. The next pitch was good again: a steep start followed by a twisting crack complete with perfect hidden jugs - superb, varied pitches. A giant platform at the top, and the end was in sight! The final pitch (number 14!) took a deep groove, awkward at the start, and led to easier ground with one final steep move round an overlap. From here, scrambling led to a tree and some welcome shade. This made a nice lunch spot, as we'd taken almost seven hours on the route (not too bad for a team of three). The descent is notoriously long and complex: but it was tremendously satisfying and added hugely to the overall experience. A long system of exposed ledges, with thin cables in places, led horizontally over a series of steep gullies to eventually gain a few chimneys which led to a levelling. We were now above the final wide descent gully, but the route finding and interest still wasn't over. Small holds and tricky edging down a limestone slab led to more good scrambling down a weaving and intriguing line. Eventually, we gained the screes and took an efficient line down to gain a broad spur which led towards the car. Superb backwards views of the route: a stunning and striking line, equally notable from the streets of Finestrat below. A long day in the saddle: almost 10 hours door to door. But the early start gave us plenty of time to refuel with an authentic paella later on.
Routes: Espolon Central Direct (uD+/VS 4b f3+,4+,3+,3+,1,4,4,4+,1,4+,4+,4,4: led p.1,3,5,7,9)
This was the route we wanted, and the one that persuaded me to come out here for a few days. The Puig dominates this part of the the Costa Blanca and towers above our 'home' village of Finestrat. The most striking line, Espolon Central is a fairly easy climb, but gives a notoriously long and tiring day (450m/1600ft and 14 pitches), so an early start seemed sensible. Not early by Alpine standards though, so after a substantial breakfast we drove the short distance to the start of the walk-in (we could see part of the route from our cabin east of Finestrat). It was cool, around 7am, and we made excellent progress along an indirect (incorrect?) line, part of the mountain circuit, before heading direct up a shallow valley to the base of the direct start. Less than 40 minutes to the start, rather than the guide time of an hour, which boded well for a reasonably quick ascent. As a rope of three, however, progress would inevitably be slower. We used a single 80m rope, alternating leads with one man in the middle - planning to swap the middle man at the 'lunch ledge', nine pitches up. It was a good plan, and worked well. I led off up the first pitch of the direct start, placing wires for the first time in many months - quite a route for a trad shakedown! Good rough limestone, not polished. Dave's pitch was a little harder, and went up a groove briefly before traversing left to the arete. Nice moves to the belay. I continued up the third pitch, up slabby grooves and tubes, great rock and surprisingly continuous climbing. We'd polished off the Direct Start (a three pitch route in itself!) in around an hour, so things were looking good for an efficient ascent. Dave then led a long traverse up a series of slabs and grooves to a gully, and I continued across the gully to finally gain the base of the long and slender ridge itself (five pitches in!). It was still a little cool as we were on the shady side of the narrow ridge. The route gets more exposed quite quickly as the ridge begins - Dave led pitch six up blocky rock, giving me the next pitch as the route becomes spectacular for the first time, and develops a real mountain ambiance. I moved right up steep but wonderfully juggy rock, over a lot of space, then straight up the front of the ridge: superb relaxed climbing up big flakes and large holds. Excellent nut protection with threads and slings where needed. Great easy pitch, but eclipsed by the next pitch, which leaves a perfect flat ledge to traverse left to gain a long groove/chimney. This is much easier than it looks - a bit of thoughtful bridging and searching for holds helps - and gives continuous interest to the big 'lunch ledge', which we reached at 11.30 after less than four hours climbing. I then switched to the middle of the rope and led a short scramble to the base of a large and complex wall that gives access to the upper (final section) of the ridge. This gave a splendid VS 4b/c pitch, quite slabby with a granite/Ogwen feel to it. A crack slanted left then right with small positive holds giving way to more blocks and jugs. The stance was spectacular, a little ledge poised above the ridge - the views were now stupendous. Warm sunshine, crystal clear, deep blue skies: the Med was directly in front with the tower blocks of Benidorm a constant, but distant, feature. All the local peaks and crags were visible: Sella, Castellets and so on, with Finestrat directly below. Vic then took the lead, which we prudently split given the shortness of the rope. A short horizontal ridge to a belay below a deep fissure. This was easily the crux of the route for me, partly because I'd taken over ownership of the heaviest sac as middle man. It dragged me outwards for the horrible thrutch at the top of the deep groove, flailing for pinch holds on the outer walls. By far the most polished rock of the entire route too: it was all eerily reminiscent of my experience on the crux pitches of the Grand Parcours at Sainte Victoire. Indeed, in its length and general 'feel', that route (done with Vic in 2012) was an obvious point of comparison (this route was less technical, slightly shorter, but far more sustained). Above, another spectacular stance - a small ledge poised above 1000ft of ridge with the Mediterranean directly in front. The next pitch was good again: a steep start followed by a twisting crack complete with perfect hidden jugs - superb, varied pitches. A giant platform at the top, and the end was in sight! The final pitch (number 14!) took a deep groove, awkward at the start, and led to easier ground with one final steep move round an overlap. From here, scrambling led to a tree and some welcome shade. This made a nice lunch spot, as we'd taken almost seven hours on the route (not too bad for a team of three). The descent is notoriously long and complex: but it was tremendously satisfying and added hugely to the overall experience. A long system of exposed ledges, with thin cables in places, led horizontally over a series of steep gullies to eventually gain a few chimneys which led to a levelling. We were now above the final wide descent gully, but the route finding and interest still wasn't over. Small holds and tricky edging down a limestone slab led to more good scrambling down a weaving and intriguing line. Eventually, we gained the screes and took an efficient line down to gain a broad spur which led towards the car. Superb backwards views of the route: a stunning and striking line, equally notable from the streets of Finestrat below. A long day in the saddle: almost 10 hours door to door. But the early start gave us plenty of time to refuel with an authentic paella later on.
Friday, March 27, 2015
Sella climbing
Crag: Sella, Costa Blanca, Spain
Routes: Cartugal (f5+:led), Deja Vu (f5:sec), Marion (f5+,4+,5:led p.1), Mister Pi Direct (f6a+:sec), Martxa d'aci (f6a:led)
A famous venue indeed, which seemed a logical choice for the first day of our brief cragging trip to the Costa Blanca. A shakedown day was inevitable, as I haven't climbed outside since last summer. Although I have done a lot of general mountaineering in Spain - in the Pyrenees, Picos de Europa and Sierra Nevada - I haven't done much pure rock climbing in the country. But while I had anticipated quality routes, I wasn't fully prepared for the sheer beauty of the terrain just a few miles inland from the urbanised coast. Sella was no exception, and after breakfast in Finestrat we drove up the enchanting valley to find this most famous of crags completely deserted. The weather had cleared after several days of rain, and we had hit the jackpot after a cold night in our log cabin in the hills below the Puig Campana: stunning clarity of light, crystal clear far-reaching cloudless views, and warm sunshine. I kicked off with a lead of the three-star Cartugal: a delightful, if rather polished, 5+ on the popular Sector Marion. This was a good choice, and seemed to indicate that my 2015 plan to train a little bit and climb indoors for the first time in a quarter of a century of climbing had paid off. It was a bit battered, but gave thought provoking and quite delicate climbing on pockets with shuffles left and right: a satisfying lead, very comfortable. After seconding Vic up the slightly easier Deja Vu, we then decided we should take advantage of the emptiness to bag the classic Marion. This is the best known route here: a longer three-pitch affair which takes the obvious arete and is very photogenic. It is a popular route, notoriously polished, so I was unsurprised to be faced with an off-balance boulder-problem start despite the lowly grade. After the first steep blocky moves, easier climbing leads to an awkward belay with lovely views over the valley. Just great to be out here with the sun on our backs. Dave then led the very long middle pitch - gentle but sustained and absorbing climbing in an increasingly exposed position. We all lowered off from the end of the difficulties on the tricker third pitch - a tough job to strip the gear from the route. Whilst in this area, we took the opportunity to try the direct version of Mister Pi, which gives good intricate moves over a tough bulge. Considerably harder if (as we did) you avoid the obvious crack further right: fingery and technical crux. As the sun dropped, we headed over to the Competicion sector, with its immaculate sweep of (rather polished) limestone. It was also my kind of terrain, just off vertical, delicate and semi-technical, so I pushed the grade up a tad with a lead of another well-known classic, Martxa d'aci. This is fingery and very sustained in its lower section. Small positive holds and pockets led to a technical section with one long reach, a hard and distinct crux. I was tiring now, and used the lower off right of the final groove. Great pitch - but long and sustained again, so we thought it best to retire for beer and pizza with a very long and tiring day in prospect tomorrow.
Routes: Cartugal (f5+:led), Deja Vu (f5:sec), Marion (f5+,4+,5:led p.1), Mister Pi Direct (f6a+:sec), Martxa d'aci (f6a:led)
A famous venue indeed, which seemed a logical choice for the first day of our brief cragging trip to the Costa Blanca. A shakedown day was inevitable, as I haven't climbed outside since last summer. Although I have done a lot of general mountaineering in Spain - in the Pyrenees, Picos de Europa and Sierra Nevada - I haven't done much pure rock climbing in the country. But while I had anticipated quality routes, I wasn't fully prepared for the sheer beauty of the terrain just a few miles inland from the urbanised coast. Sella was no exception, and after breakfast in Finestrat we drove up the enchanting valley to find this most famous of crags completely deserted. The weather had cleared after several days of rain, and we had hit the jackpot after a cold night in our log cabin in the hills below the Puig Campana: stunning clarity of light, crystal clear far-reaching cloudless views, and warm sunshine. I kicked off with a lead of the three-star Cartugal: a delightful, if rather polished, 5+ on the popular Sector Marion. This was a good choice, and seemed to indicate that my 2015 plan to train a little bit and climb indoors for the first time in a quarter of a century of climbing had paid off. It was a bit battered, but gave thought provoking and quite delicate climbing on pockets with shuffles left and right: a satisfying lead, very comfortable. After seconding Vic up the slightly easier Deja Vu, we then decided we should take advantage of the emptiness to bag the classic Marion. This is the best known route here: a longer three-pitch affair which takes the obvious arete and is very photogenic. It is a popular route, notoriously polished, so I was unsurprised to be faced with an off-balance boulder-problem start despite the lowly grade. After the first steep blocky moves, easier climbing leads to an awkward belay with lovely views over the valley. Just great to be out here with the sun on our backs. Dave then led the very long middle pitch - gentle but sustained and absorbing climbing in an increasingly exposed position. We all lowered off from the end of the difficulties on the tricker third pitch - a tough job to strip the gear from the route. Whilst in this area, we took the opportunity to try the direct version of Mister Pi, which gives good intricate moves over a tough bulge. Considerably harder if (as we did) you avoid the obvious crack further right: fingery and technical crux. As the sun dropped, we headed over to the Competicion sector, with its immaculate sweep of (rather polished) limestone. It was also my kind of terrain, just off vertical, delicate and semi-technical, so I pushed the grade up a tad with a lead of another well-known classic, Martxa d'aci. This is fingery and very sustained in its lower section. Small positive holds and pockets led to a technical section with one long reach, a hard and distinct crux. I was tiring now, and used the lower off right of the final groove. Great pitch - but long and sustained again, so we thought it best to retire for beer and pizza with a very long and tiring day in prospect tomorrow.
Sunday, March 22, 2015
Mold border league
Race: Mold 5.5m (Border League race 5)
Time/Position: 29.12 (21st from 242 [4th v40])
Not a great outing: felt tired as soon as we turned onto the familiar hill up to Nercwys. Never really recovered, and couldn't get anywhere near Jez's small group that pulled away on the hill. Just hanging on towards the finish, feeling quite drained of energy: at least 40 seconds down on my best times for this course. Very little running last week, but only returned from Portugal yesterday, so general tiredness may be to blame.
Time/Position: 29.12 (21st from 242 [4th v40])
Not a great outing: felt tired as soon as we turned onto the familiar hill up to Nercwys. Never really recovered, and couldn't get anywhere near Jez's small group that pulled away on the hill. Just hanging on towards the finish, feeling quite drained of energy: at least 40 seconds down on my best times for this course. Very little running last week, but only returned from Portugal yesterday, so general tiredness may be to blame.
Friday, March 20, 2015
Lisbon run
Just a short early morning pre-conference jog from my hotel near the Jardim Botanico up the hill to the top of the Edward II park. This gives magnificent views over the city to the Tagus beyond, and I did a few laps: steeply up on one side, relaxing downhill slopes on the other (mild hill reps!). Lots of walking round this delightful, hilly city.
Saturday, March 14, 2015
Clwydian run
A belated attempt to push the hill mileage before next month's Three Peaks race in Yorkshire. This was a very enjoyable solo outing, and an attempt to replicate the race on our local hills (the 'three peaks' for training purposes being Moel Famau, Moel Arthur and Pen y Cloddiau!). Parked below Cilcain then took the race route down to the Pump House then up the steps to Famau: nobody around this early in the morning. The glorious running along the ridge before taking the steep diretissima up the front of Moel Arthur. Cloudy and cool throughout: ideal conditions. I extended the day considerably by heading out to distant Pen y Cloddiau, then back over the shoulder of Arthur to pick up the track down to Pedair Groesffordd and Cilcain. Two hours for the round: steady, gentle and enjoyable for a change.
Sunday, March 08, 2015
Prestatyn border league
Race: Prestatyn 8.8k (Border League race 4)
Time/Position: 30.08 (16th from 248 [4th V40])
Felt very weak on Friday, to the point that I even backed off the usual jog up Moel Famau. A mild virus going round. As a result, it was a relief to feel OK as we set off in dreadful conditions, icy rain and cold wind, from Ffrith beach. This course was a change from the usual Prestatyn borders course: essentially two laps from Ffrith to the Nova centre and back via some waterlogged paths. With the wind at our backs, we made good progress eastwards, then struggled into the headwind back to Ffrith. Jez and I were neck and neck the whole way, working well with Craig and others into the headwind at a steady pace: a great mini-peloton! Jez sprinted away in the final 200m, but I held off the rest of the group to finish in my usual average BL place.
Time/Position: 30.08 (16th from 248 [4th V40])
Felt very weak on Friday, to the point that I even backed off the usual jog up Moel Famau. A mild virus going round. As a result, it was a relief to feel OK as we set off in dreadful conditions, icy rain and cold wind, from Ffrith beach. This course was a change from the usual Prestatyn borders course: essentially two laps from Ffrith to the Nova centre and back via some waterlogged paths. With the wind at our backs, we made good progress eastwards, then struggled into the headwind back to Ffrith. Jez and I were neck and neck the whole way, working well with Craig and others into the headwind at a steady pace: a great mini-peloton! Jez sprinted away in the final 200m, but I held off the rest of the group to finish in my usual average BL place.
Friday, March 06, 2015
Pot Hole climbing
Crag: Pot Hole Quarry
Routes: The Watzmann (VS 4b:sh), Treffynnon (VS 4b:sh), Unaided (VS 4b:sh), Grizzly (VS 4c:sh), Major (HVS 5a:sh)
Just a few shunted evening routes in preparation for the forthcoming Spanish cragging trip, now the evenings are getting a little lighter. I haven't touched rock since August, but after several visits to the wall (breaking the habit of a lifetime) I was hopeful of some strength improvements. I was on my own, but the sun broke through and mitigated a cool wind. I've done all these routes dozens of times and have been visiting the crag since the 1980s. Went up and down a few old favourites, using different variations and avoiding the bigger holds: felt quite good, which is more than I can say about the subsequent run from Cadole.
Routes: The Watzmann (VS 4b:sh), Treffynnon (VS 4b:sh), Unaided (VS 4b:sh), Grizzly (VS 4c:sh), Major (HVS 5a:sh)
Just a few shunted evening routes in preparation for the forthcoming Spanish cragging trip, now the evenings are getting a little lighter. I haven't touched rock since August, but after several visits to the wall (breaking the habit of a lifetime) I was hopeful of some strength improvements. I was on my own, but the sun broke through and mitigated a cool wind. I've done all these routes dozens of times and have been visiting the crag since the 1980s. Went up and down a few old favourites, using different variations and avoiding the bigger holds: felt quite good, which is more than I can say about the subsequent run from Cadole.
Sunday, March 01, 2015
Anglesey Half Marathon
Race: Anglesey Half Marathon
Time/Position: 1.23.04 (27th from 1299 [4th V40])
A weekend in Henllys booked a year ago and, by sheer coincidence, the Anglesey half marathon headed past the front door (almost). As I always do a long run when on Anglesey, I entered it with a few weeks to go. Sadly, that meant very little time to get some mileage in my legs so it was with some inevitability that I started to struggle soon after getting to Beaumaris - even with the wind at my back from the superb and memorable start on the 'mainland' side of Menai Bridge. Over the Straits was a real treat on a sunny St David's Day, and the road was closed to traffic giving excelllent scenic running past the family in Henllys (through 10k in 37.11). Then comes a long and familiar climb through Llanfaes and Llangoed before the homeward leg into an awful headwind. This became fierce along the front in Beaumaris, just as I became vulnerable to fatigue given current lack of mileage. Lost a lot of time, but not too many places, on the hilly homeward leg to Menai Bridge into the headwind. Slowest time for years, but a great course: and very nice to be back relaxing in the pool before 11am.
Time/Position: 1.23.04 (27th from 1299 [4th V40])
A weekend in Henllys booked a year ago and, by sheer coincidence, the Anglesey half marathon headed past the front door (almost). As I always do a long run when on Anglesey, I entered it with a few weeks to go. Sadly, that meant very little time to get some mileage in my legs so it was with some inevitability that I started to struggle soon after getting to Beaumaris - even with the wind at my back from the superb and memorable start on the 'mainland' side of Menai Bridge. Over the Straits was a real treat on a sunny St David's Day, and the road was closed to traffic giving excelllent scenic running past the family in Henllys (through 10k in 37.11). Then comes a long and familiar climb through Llanfaes and Llangoed before the homeward leg into an awful headwind. This became fierce along the front in Beaumaris, just as I became vulnerable to fatigue given current lack of mileage. Lost a lot of time, but not too many places, on the hilly homeward leg to Menai Bridge into the headwind. Slowest time for years, but a great course: and very nice to be back relaxing in the pool before 11am.
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