Sella climbing

Crag: Sella, Costa Blanca, Spain
Routes: Cartugal (f5+:led), Deja Vu (f5:sec), Marion (f5+,4+,5:led p.1), Mister Pi Direct (f6a+:sec), Martxa d'aci (f6a:led)
A famous venue indeed, which seemed a logical choice for the first day of our brief cragging trip to the Costa Blanca. A shakedown day was inevitable, as I haven't climbed outside since last summer. Although I have done a lot of general mountaineering in Spain - in the Pyrenees, Picos de Europa and Sierra Nevada - I haven't done much pure rock climbing in the country. But while I had anticipated quality routes, I wasn't fully prepared for the sheer beauty of the terrain just a few miles inland from the urbanised coast. Sella was no exception, and after breakfast in Finestrat we drove up the enchanting valley to find this most famous of crags completely deserted. The weather had cleared after several days of rain, and we had hit the jackpot after a cold night in our log cabin in the hills below the Puig Campana: stunning clarity of light, crystal clear far-reaching cloudless views, and warm sunshine. I kicked off with a lead of the three-star Cartugal: a delightful, if rather polished, 5+ on the popular Sector Marion. This was a good choice, and seemed to indicate that my 2015 plan to train a little bit and climb indoors for the first time in a quarter of a century of climbing had paid off. It was a bit battered, but gave thought provoking and quite delicate climbing on pockets with shuffles left and right: a satisfying lead, very comfortable. After seconding Vic up the slightly easier Deja Vu, we then decided we should take advantage of the emptiness to bag the classic Marion. This is the best known route here: a longer three-pitch affair which takes the obvious arete and is very photogenic. It is a popular route, notoriously polished, so I was unsurprised to be faced with an off-balance boulder-problem start despite the lowly grade. After the first steep blocky moves, easier climbing leads to an awkward belay with lovely views over the valley. Just great to be out here with the sun on our backs. Dave then led the very long middle pitch - gentle but sustained and absorbing climbing in an increasingly exposed position. We all lowered off from the end of the difficulties on the tricker third pitch - a tough job to strip the gear from the route. Whilst in this area, we took the opportunity to try the direct version of Mister Pi, which gives good intricate moves over a tough bulge. Considerably harder if (as we did) you avoid the obvious crack further right: fingery and technical crux. As the sun dropped, we headed over to the Competicion sector, with its immaculate sweep of (rather polished) limestone. It was also my kind of terrain, just off vertical, delicate and semi-technical, so I pushed the grade up a tad with a lead of another well-known classic, Martxa d'aci. This is fingery and very sustained in its lower section. Small positive holds and pockets led to a technical section with one long reach, a hard and distinct crux. I was tiring now, and used the lower off right of the final groove. Great pitch - but long and sustained again, so we thought it best to retire for beer and pizza with a very long and tiring day in prospect tomorrow.