Llanberis/Pen Trwyn climbing

Crag: Vivian Quarry, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Mental Lentils (HVS 5b:led)
Crag: Sticky Mix Wall, Lighthouse Crags, Great Orme
Routes: Sundowner (f6a:led), Woo Woo (f6a+:sec), Black Orchid (f6a+:sec), Black Iris (f6b:sec), New Route (f5+:led)
The classic rain-affected Welsh climbing day: always requires a bit of creative thinking and local knowledge to get things done. A positive forecast initially lured us to Vivian Quarry, thinking we could salvage something on quick-drying slate between the showers. But, contrary to the forecast, the rain started as soon as we arrived. It stayed light momentarily, so I set off up Mental Lentils, the trade route of the crag, in something of a hurry - as a large black cloud threatened heavier rain. The start was greasy and it began raining again immediately. A few flat holds lead to a traverse left to a tiny nut placement. Then rather worrying moves on wet slate to gain the first bolt. The rain began to get a tad heavier, so I sprinted up the fine crack which gives a superb friend placement. At the second bolt, a brief crux move (didn't feel like 5b) on small holds gains the lower-off just before the entire slab was soaked by heavier rain: up in less than five minutes! Nice route, easy for the grade as is often the case on slate. Andy and Hayley seconded the route in the wet, then we prudently retreated from Psychotherapy as the rain drenched everything: headed straight to the Orme in search of dry rock. The Sticky Mix wall, unaffected by summer access problems, seemed a sensible choice and so it was, despite a few more light showers and a cold northerly wind blowing straight into the face. It is a wonderful place to climb, wild and remote feeling despite its proximity to Llandudno, poised directly above the sea with great views of Ynys Mon: we'd reccied it a few weeks ago and I was very keen to get on the newly bolted routes. I began by leading Sundowner, which takes the blunt 'arete' on the left of the crag in an excellent position. A few steep moves at the start form an early crux: but the rock is rough and the holds good. It eases off after the third bolt, moving between breaks to gain a steep but very juggy and rough layback crack. A tricky finishing move completes the route, which gets quite exposed higher up. In the wind and drizzle today, above a dark green sea, it gave a fine climbing experience. Its companion route goes more easily up juggy rock to a similar layback crack higher up: but this time the crack is closed, less positive and harder to read. Half a grade harder but another nice route. Much further right, Andy then led Black Orchid at f6a+. This was on rather crumbly rock and was surprisingly sustained: harder than it looks from below with far fewer rests than might be expected from the number of horizontal breaks. Black Iris, to the left, takes a more natural line up a vague groove. It goes easily up steep juggy cracks to a baffling crux up a steep miniature slab. Again, much more pumpy and sustained than it looks. With forearm strength fading, I stepped on the bolt at the top of this crux section. Nice climbing again though, rough limestone, juggy and steep. We even had a bit of sunshine on this route. For a finale, I led a newly bolted route next to the approach gully. No details about it, but it went at about f5+ and was very pleasant. It was a lot slabbier than the Sticky Mix routes, apart from a few steepish moves up the initial wall. This gains a smooth slab but some excellent holds appear just when you need them. Good flakey jugs, reminiscent of St Victoire or Orpierre in places. At the top, a steeper undercut move gains the lower-off. Nice route, whatever it was, and a pleasant way to warm down after the steeper stuff further left.

Lingmell Dash fell race

Race: Lingmell Dash (British and English Championship)
Peaks: Lingmell, Wasdale, Lake District
Time/Position: 56.51 (77th from 137)
It seemed like a good idea to extend this British Championship fell race by walking in to the start over Eskdale Moor past Burnmoor Tarn, over five miles and 800ft of climbing. Clearly inspired by our 'value for money' approach to last Wednesday's race, it worked well but was obviously rather tiring, especially after a morning climbing on Hare Crag. The weather remained glorious, although some high cloud pushed in as we started walking from the lovely village of Boot in Eskdale. An old bridleway winds up the hillside to the open moor, gaining height easily. Then, a long trudge across to eventually gain Burnmoor Tarn. Soon, views open out to Wasdale and familiar hills become visible (albeit from an unfamiliar angle). Yewbarrow was directly ahead, Great Gable further right and, soon, Lingmell appeared below Scafell. A long descent above Wastwater led down to the valley and an even longer walk to pick up our numbers near the pub. There was just time for a coffee at the famous Ritson's Bar before the race started. I've done a few British Championship races over the years and they are always characterised by a quality field. There is no let up, and the pace was relentless for the dash from the pub, along Wasdale to pick up the main Brown Tongue path briefly, then streams of runners branched off for the direct route up the hillside to pick up the 'Shoulder' - the obvious ridge coming down from the summit of Lingmell. This gives an absolutely brutal climb, very steep for several hundred metres. I used my hands wherever possible and made reasonable progress, although Vic stayed in front of me until the ridge eased off higher up and became runnable. I picked up quite a few places here, good views to the right over Scafell and Scafell Pike. Over an old wall, then a brief rocky section before rounding the summit cairn in 39.30. I gashed my shin on the summit rocks and took a while to get going on the descent. I lost a couple of places on the initial section, but then held my place reasonably well over the grassy plateau then the exceptionally steep and sustained descent of the Shoulder. Very punishing on the quads. A bit of scree suited me, but I was relieved to pick up the main path lower down (sunny and almost hot now). An excellent sprint back to the finish near the pub. Satisfying to break the hour, and the race reminded me of Moel Siabod in this (and many other) respects. As ever, the field was ludicrously strong: I'm not sure I have ever finished in the top 40 in a British Champs race (41st is my best ever!). This was also an English Champs counter, so the field was even stronger. After a few cups of squash and a bite to eat, relaxing and enjoying glorious sunshine, we headed back to Eskdale. The crux comes immediately: the steep climb from the shores of Wastwater up to the plateau below Illgill Head. Steady progress in warm sunshine past Burnmoor Tarn, superb clarity of light that got better as the day wore on. Beautiful descent through woodland to Boot: at least 16 miles in total.

Eskdale climbing

Crag: Hare Crag, Eskdale, Lake District
Routes: Celebration (MVS 4b:sol), The Rib (D:des), Easy Slab (VD:sol), Fireball XL5 (MVS 4b:led), Jugged Hare (MVS 4b:sec), Slab Route (S:led)
After a night in the superbly positioned Eskdale youth hostel and a cooked breakfast, we ambled up the path through chest-high ferns to this crag: just a few minutes walk in beautiful early morning sunshine. Our plans for the day were ambitious and required precise timing: two or three hours climbing (so we had to move fast to tick the crag and sample the three distinct buttresses so obvious from the hostel grounds), then a long walk from Eskdale to Wasdale, then the Lingmell Dash British Championship fell race, then a long walk back to Eskdale for the long drive home! This, the first part, went very well. We headed for the obvious triangular slab for a delightful solo warm-up on three easy routes. First, Celebration: theoretically VS 4b but only because of the lack of gear. Nicely delicate slab climbing on superb and surprisingly unpolished rock. I traversed across to the Rib on the left of the slab and descended this back to the base. Continuous movement on rock first thing in the morning: lovely! A bit further right, Easy Slab was as described, a splendid easy romp up to the apex of the slab on better holds than Celebration. From here, we moved round to the central crag where I led the mild VS of Fireball XL5. This was short but very varied and enjoyable, again on surprisingly unpolished rock. A lovely crack up the left side of a big flake leads to its tip. From here, a distinct crux move up a steep crack leads to a slabby corner above. This is still interesting though. Conscious of the time, we moved immediately across to the final lefthand buttress, where Vic led Jugged Hare at the same grade. This had a bold start up a slab, and a lovely upper wall which took a delicious flake crack which begged to be climbed. Satisfying, simple laybacking. If it went on for 50 metres it would be a famous classic! After descending, I had a few minutes to sprint up Slab Route, a rather bold but very easy Severe covering a large amount of the crag, which takes a curving crack line diagonally right up the upper slabs to gain a small ledge. Then fluted rough cracks give a welcome friend placement and juggy finish. After two hours of pleasure, it was now time for the pain, so we walked back to the hostel past singing yellowhammers, still in glorious sunshine, and drove to the nearby village of Boot for the walk-in to Wasdale.

Wallowbarrow climbing

Crag: Wallowbarrow, Duddon Valley, Lake District
Routes: Thomas (S 4a,4a:led p.1,2), Malediction p.1 (VD:led), The Plum (VS 4c:sec), Digitation (MVS 4b,4b:led p.1)
There aren't many crags 15 minutes walk from a road that are as quiet as this. Then again, there aren't many areas quite as exquisite and tucked away as the Duddon Valley, perhaps the finest corner of Lakeland. I'd only been here once before, during the Saunders Mountain Marathon in 2009, when the overnight camp was at Turner Farm and I gazed down on Wallowbarrow from my tent. We were en route to the YHA in Eskdale before tomorrow's fell race in Wasdale, so this seemed a logical choice of crag to stop off at for a few late routes, particularly as it is so difficult to access from the south and we were virtually passing it. Its low grade climbs seemed ideal as there were plenty of showers passing over as we enjoyed coffee and tea loaf in Broughton. Although it was late in the day, we did the 'long' walk-in from Seathwaite church, quite delightful, through oak woodland and across the river Duddon to Wallowbarrow farm and a little track to the base of the crag. The low-grade classic of the crag is Thomas, a three-pitch Severe taking a distinct central rib between the two main buttresses. I led up the first pitch in very light drizzle, planning to merge it with pitch two. This gave a wonderfully relaxed and lengthy 40 metre pitch. A crack led to easy angled climbing up an inclining wall to the normal belay ledge. Above, the route steepens and gives some lovely climbing up the front of the rib. The rain fell more steadily as I brought Vic up, and he led a short final pitch up a series of enjoyable grooves. A lovely route. After descending, I led up the easy broken ridge (p.1 of Malediction, just a scramble really) which gives access to three or four classic VS routes on the left of the crag. Vic went for The Plum at VS 4c, another good route which traverses right to juggy climbing up a steep slab, which gets steeper at a hanging flake and chimney groove. This gives a few interesting and quite steep moves, although there is never any need for thrutching, the solutions are always there. Perhaps the most obvious line on the crag, and very enjoyable again. After a bite to eat, we moved round to the eastern buttress, where the clean slab of Digitation inevitably attracts the attention. I couldn't resist, so led up the three perched blocks to gain some delectable slabby climbing up to a short corner. This gives a superb nut placement before delicate climbing leads to a horizontal break before a crux pull over a little overlap. Slabs lead to a big stance which breaks the route up a bit, but a nice steep crack kept things varied for Vic's second pitch before we jogged down to the car and drove round to Eskdale for a meal at the YHA and a couple of pints at the Woolpack. Lovely venue, beautiful location: all routes flowed very quickly, a very satisfying couple of hours work.

Green Grass fell race

Race: Green Grass of Home fell race (5m/1500ft)
Time/Position: 43.15 (6th from 79 [3rd V40])
A completely new route for this race, the third in the summer evening series. It's not one I've been able to do very often over the years, as I'm generally away on holiday. Having not done much since returning from Morocco with a dose of delhi belly, I asked Jez if he fancied tripling the mileage by running over to the start from Cilcain. He liked the idea, so we jogged over the old drover's road to the top of the Clwydian ridge, then past the start and down to the Goldie in Llangynhafal to register. The new route was really excellent, very runnable, and I actually enjoyed myself for a change. It went back up the track towards the ridge, then steeply up to gain the Clwydian Hills climb - which in descent is a fast and exhilarating treat. I passed four runners on this descent, unusual for me, and found myself in sixth place as we then climbed out of the hidden valley to the north. Overgrown in places but a very obscure part of the range and good fun. This was a long climb, and it emerged on the main OD ridge path. Superb running along here in perfect conditions: some evening sunshine and a cool breeze. The route branched off towards Cilcain (that is, the way Jez and I had just run over) and then along the narrow path towards Famau and Pwll y Rhos. Then back over Moel Dywyll to a hard and tussocky descent. My ankle gave way almost immediately and my old shoes (with toe flaps hanging off) continually tripped over the thick heather. I ended up on my back twice! Lost loads of ground and could hear runners gaining on me. Luckily, I just held them off before gaining the main track and pelting down this to the finish. Got the first V40 prize but only by default. After prize giving and a pint, we ran back over the ridge to Cilcain as darkness fell.

Ouanoukrim circuit

Peaks: Ras (4083m/13,396ft), Timesguida (4089m/13,415ft)
Area: Ouanoukrim, High Atlas, Morocco
A superb and unusual mountain, which interested me considerably more than Toubkal. Ouanoukrim has double summits, rising from a vast lunar plateau, and is well defended on all sides by a combination of cliffs and remoteness. It has one simple route up an easy ridge from a high col, however. Further, Timesguida and Ras are the second and third highest peaks in the Atlas. All told, it was an obvious objective after spending a second night in the Toubkal Refuge. I still tussled with various other options, however, before finally deciding to go for it after another 5am breakfast. A little earlier than yesterday leaving the refuge, so the first section was by headtorch and, as a result, I was glad of my reccie up into this valley yesterday. Heading up here in the dark, solo, was quite memorable, particularly as 90% of the other torch lights were heading up the South Cwm to Toubkal. I did overtake a large French party higher up towards the Ouanaoums Pass, however, and quite soon I had enough light to see the onward route to the obvious col of Tizi n'Ouagane higher up. This looks shallow and easy, but is actually a fair way off. The paths diverge in the flat valley base, and the route towards Ouanoukrim heads up the side of the valley, which is quite tight at this point with a fast-flowing river forming a small gorge in its base. Steep zigzags gains meadows, then a large snowfield. This was firm and enjoyable and led to the final steep climb up scree to the main col of Ouagane. Views open out to the wild valleys further south from this very distinct col: the wild Agoundis valley immediately below. The character of the onward route changes at this point, as a pinnacled ridge needs to be climbed to gain the lunar plateau above. This was very interesting and enjoyable, particularly as the day was developing into a real cracker: deep blue cloudless sky and the sun breaking over Toubkal. The low sun lit the ridge to perfection as I weaved past two weird eroded pinnacles. It then follows the crest, easy scrambling, to gain an enjoyable gully. A little traverse path avoids a steeper section to the right, then a miniature col, before more intricate route finding gains a bit more easy scrambling to the plateau. This felt a pretty special place: completely barren and most of it at around 4000m, suspended above the valleys and peaks of the High Atlas. I ploughed up to the summit of Ras, with great views to Toubkal (pleasing to see Toubkal West looking distinctive and worthwhile). From here, a short jog across to the slightly higher summit of Timesguida. Again, this felt rather 'out there': alone on a big peak with the High Atlas dropping away to the south almost immediately to low desert hills. The descent took a different looping line back to pick up a line of cairns down to the crucial ridge (not a feature you would want to miss: indeed this is not a peak or route I would contemplate in mist!). The downclimb was very simple, though, and I spied a direct scree run down to cut the corner below the Tizi n'Ouagane. From here, I made rapid downward progress down the still cold and shaded valley, intent on gaining the sunny broader valley lower down. The snowfield was still firm, and I didn't stop for a second breakfast until I reached the little meadows near the junction with the Lac d'Ifni pass. After a short break, I continued to the hut, picked up the rest of my stuff, and headed all the way down to Imlil. This was a wonderful descent in perfect weather, getting hotter with every few hundred metres of descent. A lammergeier flew over the valley as I descended, only the third time I have ever seen one (one flew a few feet above my head in Nepal). It wheeled around the North Cwm of Toubkal then flew back. Lower down, I got blue rock thrush and crimson-winged finch, among other species. By the time I reached Sidi Chamarouch, it was hot. By the time I reached the dry river valley and Aremd it was baking and airless. But I soon gained the delightful woodland between Aremd and Imlil: cool streams and walnut trees. On arrival in Imlil, I had to climb a mile or two back up the valley and through the alleyways of Tamatert to get back to Douar Samra, where I enjoyed an excellent lunch of Moroccan quiche and omelette before relaxing as the clouds gathered over the peaks for another storm that afternoon.

Toubkal circuit

Peaks: Jebel Toubkal (4167m/13,671ft), Toubkal West (4008m/13,149ft)
Area: Toubkal, High Atlas, Morocco
Over the years, this peak has become something of a backpackers 'thing to do' and therefore not really my cup of tea. But having said that, it is a fine and impressive mountain, the highest in North Africa, and an unavoidable objective from the Refuge du Toubkal at its foot. It's a short outing, too, and I had the idea of combining it with more peaks and/or a valley walk. Had breakfast at around 5am, and left in the half-light of early dawn, crossing the river that runs down from the Ouagouns valley to gain the bottom of the initial steep scree slopes that give access to the South Cwm proper. A few early refuseniks were already on their way down (I would guess the peak has a fairly high failure rate, given the unconventional clientele and the altitude). The scree is relatively solid, and the route weaves through giant boulder fields with the impressive walls of Toubkal West looming above. Behind, the sun lit the Clochetons ridge. The South Cwm is tight and well defined, and the slopes reasonably gentle. It opens out higher up, some snowfields, then fans out again to gain the Tizi n'Toubkal. But before I reached the Tizi (col) I branched off for a direct route to the summit. This was up shifting scree, much steeper, and led eventually to a kind of forepeak and the more impressive summit ridge. This was considerably more interesting, cliffs plunging down into the remote valleys further east. I reached the summit in 99 minutes from the refuge (just after 7am) and enjoyed a much longer than usual period of relaxation on the top. I didn't have it to myself, and the views were a little hazy with a roof of high cloud, but I really enjoyed picking out the summits and getting to grips with the range. An informative conversation with a friendly guide helped (he had a party of Germans with him and spoke six languages). I could see Imlil in the green valley far below to the north, but the most impressive peak was Ouanoukrim across the spurs and ridges to the south. This was my plan for tomorrow. The long ridges from Toubkal to Afekhoi and Dome d'Ifni also looked excellent, but not really feasible for me on this short break. To the south, hazy spurs led down to baked valleys and the distant Sahara. It was fairly cold - around 5C - but reasonably comfortable. I wandered down for a look at the North Cwm descent, thinking I might pick up the peaks above it like Imouzzer. But they were virtually indistinguishable from above, just bumps on the ridge. By contrast, Toubkal West, across the South Cwm, looked quite impressive despite the boring name, so I resolved to make a little horseshoe of the South Cwm taking in the ridge and Toubkal West before descending directly to to the snowfield in the South Cwm. This was again rather too short, but very pleasant. I took a fairly direct line down the ridge to the Tizi n'Toubkal col, then took the obvious upper traverse path towards Toubkal West. This is fairly well defined and weaves past a few little wind gaps with great views over multiple ridges towards a final scramble up the square pinnacle forming the summit of Toubkal West. This was an excellent viewpoint, directly across from Akioud and the Clochetons ridge. Ouanoukrim and its twin summits again impressed, and were now even closer, while the main Toubkal summit towered across the South Cwm. I had a second breakfast and took a direct line down to the South Cwm thereby completing a mini-horseshoe. The return to the hut was simple, and I had a little rest before deciding what to do with the rest of the day (it was only about 9.30am!). I ended up walking up towards the Tizi n'Ouanaoums, a steep and important pass linking this valley with the Lac d'Ifni and Takatert and the more remote valleys and villages to the east. This was a pleasant ramble and led to a flat and vegetation-free plain dotted with huge boulders. I even did a bit of bouldering in this wild spot, as the sun peeked through the clouds. Later, another storm (milder than the previous two days), and another fine tagine (djej mqualli - chicken with olives and preserved lemons), with a mint tea chaser. I managed to slip into an empty dormitory for more peace at the refuge later on.

Tamatert to Toubkal Refuge

I arrived in the mountain village of Tamatert in the dark on Saturday evening, during a violent electrical storm: the start of a brief trip to the High Atlas mountains of Morocco. My taxi stopped at the end of the rubble track up from Imlil (after driving from Marrakech airport, 39C even at 7pm). Heavy rain as we walked by torchlight down stony paths and alleyways, fat toads jumping around, mules braying, and found the tiny front door of my accommodation: a restored Berber douar. After a superb lamb tagine and other Moroccan specialities, all by candelight (no electricity in the house) I turned in. Next morning dawned perfectly sunny and clear: deep blue sky. After breakfast, I negotiated the alleyways of Tamatert and walked down the road to Imlil. From here, some guesswork is required to find the onward route to Aremd and the mountains. I followed old tracks past Berber houses and groves of walnut trees to a river crossing. Above this, a climb led to the superbly positioned hillside village of Aremd: on a steep slope with views up to Toubkal and beyond. Through the lower streets, all tiny alleyways and characteristic flat-topped houses, to gain the large dry river bed/floodplain at the foot of the higher peaks. Dramatic scenery ahead, with multiple spurs and side valleys leading to Toubkal dominating the view ahead: the sky still cloudless. Temperatures were hot but bearable. I had to ask several local Berbers about the onward route: none of it is marked, but it is well used by locals. Up to this point, I'd seen no foreigners at all. At a large boulder, I then made a rather embarrassing error, taking a small path above the river. This was obviously too narrow to be the main mule trail, but for some reason I persisted, thinking it might make an interesting short-cut perhaps. It soon petered out into a nightmare of mud, huge boulders and impenetrable vegetation. I tried to follow the river itself for a bit, but eventually decided I would have to seek a route up the side of the valley and hope to gain the main route. This I did, scrambling up a dry stream bed, and eventually spied a mule train higher up the valley side. I regained the main path by a shack selling drinks, so cooled down with an orange drink. The main track was far more comfortable, with spectacular backward views as colourful mule trains made their way up: beyond barren yellow hills soared upwards with a deep blue sky above. Soon, I reached the tiny settlement of Sidi Chamarouch at the junction of two valleys (Mizane and Tarharate, which cuts the steep side valley to the east). This has a white mosque hidden between massive boulders and is a sight of Islamic pilgrimage. It also has a few dusty shacks selling drinks, but due to ramadam most of the proprietors were asleep as I passed around midday. Above, the route gets much more physical: steep zigzags gain a long contouring path above the valley of the Mizane river. The path then makes a beeline up the valley, climbing all the way, with the views opening out towards Ouanoukrim (Ras) directly in front, although the Refuge du Toubkal stays hidden until the last minute. It began to cloud over, which made life a little more comfortable, although the altitude starting to kick in as I climbed towards 3000m (generally the level that I start to really feel it). It took almost three hours to reach the refuge, longer than I'd expected. I booked in and claimed a bunk, had a snack, and began to consider the feasibility of my original plan (which had been to nip up Toubkal in the afternoon). I had plenty of time and energy, but the obvious problem was the weather. It had clouded over, there was a hint of rain in the air, and a strong hint of an afternoon storm. Still, I had plenty of time to kill so thought I would at least reccie the route. This was pleasant, a little walk up to the river crossing, then up the initial steep zigzags leading in to the South Cwm (Ikhibi Sud). I was just beginning to think I might break into a run and continue all the way up to the summit when a loud clap of thunder sent me scurrying back to the hut for a mint tea (and later, a fine chicken tagine with carrot soup and melon).

Fairy Freckled Cow trail race

Race: Freckled Cow/Llyn Alwen trail race (11k)
Time/Position: 43.16 (6th from 119)
After struggling for a few months, it was a relief to feel reasonably fit today. I finished 6th, exactly the same position as when I last did this excellent race two years ago, albeit 14 seconds slower. Much more important, though, I actually enjoyed myself for a change and didn't fall to pieces half way round. Two years ago, several runners ended up in the recovery position with heat stroke - it was one of the hottest Welsh races I can remember. Today, intermittent sunshine was very pleasant on the outward leg along the eastern shore of the lake to the wild terrain on the edge of Hiraethog where you cross the lake at a small bridge and negotiate a very sharp climb to gain an exposed moor which leads down to more fire tracks and fast, undulating running to the finish. Very little of the race is actually flat, but the hills are never very long. It gives a great session: and some very heavy rain later on in the race helped cool us all down today.