Ouanoukrim circuit

Peaks: Ras (4083m/13,396ft), Timesguida (4089m/13,415ft)
Area: Ouanoukrim, High Atlas, Morocco
A superb and unusual mountain, which interested me considerably more than Toubkal. Ouanoukrim has double summits, rising from a vast lunar plateau, and is well defended on all sides by a combination of cliffs and remoteness. It has one simple route up an easy ridge from a high col, however. Further, Timesguida and Ras are the second and third highest peaks in the Atlas. All told, it was an obvious objective after spending a second night in the Toubkal Refuge. I still tussled with various other options, however, before finally deciding to go for it after another 5am breakfast. A little earlier than yesterday leaving the refuge, so the first section was by headtorch and, as a result, I was glad of my reccie up into this valley yesterday. Heading up here in the dark, solo, was quite memorable, particularly as 90% of the other torch lights were heading up the South Cwm to Toubkal. I did overtake a large French party higher up towards the Ouanaoums Pass, however, and quite soon I had enough light to see the onward route to the obvious col of Tizi n'Ouagane higher up. This looks shallow and easy, but is actually a fair way off. The paths diverge in the flat valley base, and the route towards Ouanoukrim heads up the side of the valley, which is quite tight at this point with a fast-flowing river forming a small gorge in its base. Steep zigzags gains meadows, then a large snowfield. This was firm and enjoyable and led to the final steep climb up scree to the main col of Ouagane. Views open out to the wild valleys further south from this very distinct col: the wild Agoundis valley immediately below. The character of the onward route changes at this point, as a pinnacled ridge needs to be climbed to gain the lunar plateau above. This was very interesting and enjoyable, particularly as the day was developing into a real cracker: deep blue cloudless sky and the sun breaking over Toubkal. The low sun lit the ridge to perfection as I weaved past two weird eroded pinnacles. It then follows the crest, easy scrambling, to gain an enjoyable gully. A little traverse path avoids a steeper section to the right, then a miniature col, before more intricate route finding gains a bit more easy scrambling to the plateau. This felt a pretty special place: completely barren and most of it at around 4000m, suspended above the valleys and peaks of the High Atlas. I ploughed up to the summit of Ras, with great views to Toubkal (pleasing to see Toubkal West looking distinctive and worthwhile). From here, a short jog across to the slightly higher summit of Timesguida. Again, this felt rather 'out there': alone on a big peak with the High Atlas dropping away to the south almost immediately to low desert hills. The descent took a different looping line back to pick up a line of cairns down to the crucial ridge (not a feature you would want to miss: indeed this is not a peak or route I would contemplate in mist!). The downclimb was very simple, though, and I spied a direct scree run down to cut the corner below the Tizi n'Ouagane. From here, I made rapid downward progress down the still cold and shaded valley, intent on gaining the sunny broader valley lower down. The snowfield was still firm, and I didn't stop for a second breakfast until I reached the little meadows near the junction with the Lac d'Ifni pass. After a short break, I continued to the hut, picked up the rest of my stuff, and headed all the way down to Imlil. This was a wonderful descent in perfect weather, getting hotter with every few hundred metres of descent. A lammergeier flew over the valley as I descended, only the third time I have ever seen one (one flew a few feet above my head in Nepal). It wheeled around the North Cwm of Toubkal then flew back. Lower down, I got blue rock thrush and crimson-winged finch, among other species. By the time I reached Sidi Chamarouch, it was hot. By the time I reached the dry river valley and Aremd it was baking and airless. But I soon gained the delightful woodland between Aremd and Imlil: cool streams and walnut trees. On arrival in Imlil, I had to climb a mile or two back up the valley and through the alleyways of Tamatert to get back to Douar Samra, where I enjoyed an excellent lunch of Moroccan quiche and omelette before relaxing as the clouds gathered over the peaks for another storm that afternoon.