Llanberis/Pen Trwyn climbing

Crag: Vivian Quarry, Llanberis Slate
Routes: Mental Lentils (HVS 5b:led)
Crag: Sticky Mix Wall, Lighthouse Crags, Great Orme
Routes: Sundowner (f6a:led), Woo Woo (f6a+:sec), Black Orchid (f6a+:sec), Black Iris (f6b:sec), New Route (f5+:led)
The classic rain-affected Welsh climbing day: always requires a bit of creative thinking and local knowledge to get things done. A positive forecast initially lured us to Vivian Quarry, thinking we could salvage something on quick-drying slate between the showers. But, contrary to the forecast, the rain started as soon as we arrived. It stayed light momentarily, so I set off up Mental Lentils, the trade route of the crag, in something of a hurry - as a large black cloud threatened heavier rain. The start was greasy and it began raining again immediately. A few flat holds lead to a traverse left to a tiny nut placement. Then rather worrying moves on wet slate to gain the first bolt. The rain began to get a tad heavier, so I sprinted up the fine crack which gives a superb friend placement. At the second bolt, a brief crux move (didn't feel like 5b) on small holds gains the lower-off just before the entire slab was soaked by heavier rain: up in less than five minutes! Nice route, easy for the grade as is often the case on slate. Andy and Hayley seconded the route in the wet, then we prudently retreated from Psychotherapy as the rain drenched everything: headed straight to the Orme in search of dry rock. The Sticky Mix wall, unaffected by summer access problems, seemed a sensible choice and so it was, despite a few more light showers and a cold northerly wind blowing straight into the face. It is a wonderful place to climb, wild and remote feeling despite its proximity to Llandudno, poised directly above the sea with great views of Ynys Mon: we'd reccied it a few weeks ago and I was very keen to get on the newly bolted routes. I began by leading Sundowner, which takes the blunt 'arete' on the left of the crag in an excellent position. A few steep moves at the start form an early crux: but the rock is rough and the holds good. It eases off after the third bolt, moving between breaks to gain a steep but very juggy and rough layback crack. A tricky finishing move completes the route, which gets quite exposed higher up. In the wind and drizzle today, above a dark green sea, it gave a fine climbing experience. Its companion route goes more easily up juggy rock to a similar layback crack higher up: but this time the crack is closed, less positive and harder to read. Half a grade harder but another nice route. Much further right, Andy then led Black Orchid at f6a+. This was on rather crumbly rock and was surprisingly sustained: harder than it looks from below with far fewer rests than might be expected from the number of horizontal breaks. Black Iris, to the left, takes a more natural line up a vague groove. It goes easily up steep juggy cracks to a baffling crux up a steep miniature slab. Again, much more pumpy and sustained than it looks. With forearm strength fading, I stepped on the bolt at the top of this crux section. Nice climbing again though, rough limestone, juggy and steep. We even had a bit of sunshine on this route. For a finale, I led a newly bolted route next to the approach gully. No details about it, but it went at about f5+ and was very pleasant. It was a lot slabbier than the Sticky Mix routes, apart from a few steepish moves up the initial wall. This gains a smooth slab but some excellent holds appear just when you need them. Good flakey jugs, reminiscent of St Victoire or Orpierre in places. At the top, a steeper undercut move gains the lower-off. Nice route, whatever it was, and a pleasant way to warm down after the steeper stuff further left.