Race: Prestatyn 7k/4.2m (Border League race 7)
Time/Position: 24.37 (15th from 276 [1st V45])
It's not the first time we've had a final border league fixture just three days after London, but tonight's race was intensified by the very tight margins in the V45 category. I had a slender 5 point lead over Rich Webster, who had also done London: so it was a level playing field and the usual friendly competition. After a short loop around the Ffrith, the race went out for a two mile romp along the prom past the Nova Centre. I stuck with Richard for most of this, evenly matched as we have been all season. But I was feeling reasonably good and the legs weren't too painful after the marathon, so I pushed on a bit, then worked my way up the field on the return leg eventually joining a small group of three. There was a headwind as we headed back west, but nothing compared to previous return legs along the same coastal path (45mph on the Rhyl 10 earlier this year, to name but one example!). In the event, I recorded my third best finish of the season to win the V45 category in the league with 105 points, the first time I have won my category in 11 years. A really enjoyable season, closely contested throughout (tonight was also, coincidentally, my 60th Border League race).
Wednesday, April 27, 2016
Sunday, April 24, 2016
London Marathon
Race: London Marathon
Time/Position: 2.55.27 (1265 from 39139)
Very relaxed coming in to this race, my 20th road marathon and 7th London. I had only done three long training runs, so had no expectations at all. I knew I wasn't in PB shape so my only chance at a decent performance was a steady and sustainable pace. To my surprise, I kept this slow and steady pace going throughout, despite the lack of training, probably because I am well trained for the half marathon distance at the moment and was therefore very comfortable until the Isle of Dogs. I also managed to hold down quite a few gels, which is unusual for me. The upshot was that this was perhaps the most enjoyable London I have ever done, save perhaps for the first time I did it in 2001. My splits were very consistent, albeit very slow and conservative! My quickest 5k was 20.34, the slowest was 21.20 - pace was between 4.04km and 4.16km for the entire race. As ever, the highlights were Cutty Sark, then going over Tower Bridge feeling fresh, then Narrow Street. I saw the family at Canary Wharf, around mile 19, which was a boost for the last few miles. My pace slackened a little towards the end, but not much, and the final section down the Embankment towards Big Ben is always very special. A couple of minutes slower than my PB, and at least 10 minutes slower than I should theoretically be able to do, but that requires a more disciplined approach to training than I have managed in the 15 years I've been running marathons! I've long since accepted that marathons will never be my distance, but it was nice to be 20 minutes inside the V45 qualifying time. Always a great day and a great family weekend: and it is even better when you actually enjoy the race.
Time/Position: 2.55.27 (1265 from 39139)
Very relaxed coming in to this race, my 20th road marathon and 7th London. I had only done three long training runs, so had no expectations at all. I knew I wasn't in PB shape so my only chance at a decent performance was a steady and sustainable pace. To my surprise, I kept this slow and steady pace going throughout, despite the lack of training, probably because I am well trained for the half marathon distance at the moment and was therefore very comfortable until the Isle of Dogs. I also managed to hold down quite a few gels, which is unusual for me. The upshot was that this was perhaps the most enjoyable London I have ever done, save perhaps for the first time I did it in 2001. My splits were very consistent, albeit very slow and conservative! My quickest 5k was 20.34, the slowest was 21.20 - pace was between 4.04km and 4.16km for the entire race. As ever, the highlights were Cutty Sark, then going over Tower Bridge feeling fresh, then Narrow Street. I saw the family at Canary Wharf, around mile 19, which was a boost for the last few miles. My pace slackened a little towards the end, but not much, and the final section down the Embankment towards Big Ben is always very special. A couple of minutes slower than my PB, and at least 10 minutes slower than I should theoretically be able to do, but that requires a more disciplined approach to training than I have managed in the 15 years I've been running marathons! I've long since accepted that marathons will never be my distance, but it was nice to be 20 minutes inside the V45 qualifying time. Always a great day and a great family weekend: and it is even better when you actually enjoy the race.
Wednesday, April 20, 2016
Moelwyns climbing
Crag: Craig yr Wrysgan, Moelwynion
Routes: Y Gelynen (VD:led p.1), Y Gelynen Direct Finish (S:led), Cave Arete (VD:led), Daufaen (S:led), Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b:sec)
Shakedown mode today on a series of easy routes, having not climbed trad since last August. The Moelwyns are always ideal for this purpose: crags I have visited many times over the years. It's been a late spring, but this morning was perfection - that rare combination of ideal temperatures and perfect clarity that you sometimes get in April. We went for Craig yr Wrysgan, and I kicked off with the first pitch of Y Gelynen, which I last did in the early 1990s with Tim (and I have a memory we went off route on it, not sure how!). It is a delightful climb on gentle, warm rock. It is rather bold for the grade, but can be protected with a bit of thought. Easy ledges lead out left to the blunt rib itself, which gives lovely climbing on little incut holds to a small nut placement near the eponymous holly: a lovely 30m pitch. We were climbing on a single rope, so I belayed in a little niche under the holly to prevent too much drag. Vic then led up to Y Borfa via a thin crack, then an overlap taken on good holds to a slab. I then led the alternative finish, which I don't think I've done before. Instead of sidling off to the right, it goes up easy shelves to the obvious corner crack which is steep initially with one tricky move to gain bigger holds and easy climbing to the top: improves the route considerably. From the top, we ambled through the interesting industrial landscape to the Upper Tier. I'd never climbed here before: it is a small crag of rough rock, almost like a gritstone outcrop, giving 30-40m routes. I led up the easy Cave Arete at the far left of the crag, above a remarkable quarried cave which we explored first. The route goes on huge holds to a short chimney, with easy bridging to a ledge. I continued up the next arete pitch: slabby and simple, but in a nice position. All very gentle but well worthwhile: a fine combination of routes at a consistent grade. The descent is always a nice and novel feature of this crag, as it takes the old incline through a tunnel. After lunch, we scrambled up to the ledge below the obvious White Streak slab. We've done this before, so I led Daufaen instead. This is a companion route which takes the left side of the slab. A steep initial crack is short-lived but fun, and leads to the first slab. Slightly dirty after winter, with the whole route less travelled than White Streak. Similar though: characterised by easy, enjoyable climbing on classic Moelwyn pocketed slabs. On the bold side, although some blocks at half height give plenty of gear. I continued on through the second pitch, which takes a slightly steeper slab to the ledge of Y Borfa. Fine climbing, again rather bold with cams in pockets and the like. A fine 35m pitch. A delightful sun-drenched belay on the ledge before Vic led through up old favourite Honeysuckle Corner. Slightly awkward in places, but I've done it before and remembered where the holds were! It goes quite easily and is a fine easy bridging pitch. We shot up the combination in around half an hour, then back down through the tunnel for an early finish. Stunning weather throughout.
Routes: Y Gelynen (VD:led p.1), Y Gelynen Direct Finish (S:led), Cave Arete (VD:led), Daufaen (S:led), Honeysuckle Corner (HS 4b:sec)
Shakedown mode today on a series of easy routes, having not climbed trad since last August. The Moelwyns are always ideal for this purpose: crags I have visited many times over the years. It's been a late spring, but this morning was perfection - that rare combination of ideal temperatures and perfect clarity that you sometimes get in April. We went for Craig yr Wrysgan, and I kicked off with the first pitch of Y Gelynen, which I last did in the early 1990s with Tim (and I have a memory we went off route on it, not sure how!). It is a delightful climb on gentle, warm rock. It is rather bold for the grade, but can be protected with a bit of thought. Easy ledges lead out left to the blunt rib itself, which gives lovely climbing on little incut holds to a small nut placement near the eponymous holly: a lovely 30m pitch. We were climbing on a single rope, so I belayed in a little niche under the holly to prevent too much drag. Vic then led up to Y Borfa via a thin crack, then an overlap taken on good holds to a slab. I then led the alternative finish, which I don't think I've done before. Instead of sidling off to the right, it goes up easy shelves to the obvious corner crack which is steep initially with one tricky move to gain bigger holds and easy climbing to the top: improves the route considerably. From the top, we ambled through the interesting industrial landscape to the Upper Tier. I'd never climbed here before: it is a small crag of rough rock, almost like a gritstone outcrop, giving 30-40m routes. I led up the easy Cave Arete at the far left of the crag, above a remarkable quarried cave which we explored first. The route goes on huge holds to a short chimney, with easy bridging to a ledge. I continued up the next arete pitch: slabby and simple, but in a nice position. All very gentle but well worthwhile: a fine combination of routes at a consistent grade. The descent is always a nice and novel feature of this crag, as it takes the old incline through a tunnel. After lunch, we scrambled up to the ledge below the obvious White Streak slab. We've done this before, so I led Daufaen instead. This is a companion route which takes the left side of the slab. A steep initial crack is short-lived but fun, and leads to the first slab. Slightly dirty after winter, with the whole route less travelled than White Streak. Similar though: characterised by easy, enjoyable climbing on classic Moelwyn pocketed slabs. On the bold side, although some blocks at half height give plenty of gear. I continued on through the second pitch, which takes a slightly steeper slab to the ledge of Y Borfa. Fine climbing, again rather bold with cams in pockets and the like. A fine 35m pitch. A delightful sun-drenched belay on the ledge before Vic led through up old favourite Honeysuckle Corner. Slightly awkward in places, but I've done it before and remembered where the holds were! It goes quite easily and is a fine easy bridging pitch. We shot up the combination in around half an hour, then back down through the tunnel for an early finish. Stunning weather throughout.
Sunday, April 17, 2016
Mold Border League
Race: Mold 5m (Border League Race 6)
Time/Position: 28.37 (13th from 293 [1st V45])
Almost three months since my last border league fixture, and indeed my last short race - having missed race 5 due to the Panama trip. This gap, combined with recent travels and relative lack of speedwork, meant I was very unsure how I'd get on today. The V45 category could hardly be tighter, with Richard Webster nudging into the lead by one point after the last race. It was a relief, therefore, to feel reasonably good on this very familiar circuit, which I must have done at least 10 times. It is always a tricky one to judge: indeed just last year I blew after the hill to Nercwys and really struggled over the last half. This was better, just kept it steady on the climb, then pushed the pace a bit through Nercwys. Myself and Richard again equally matched, running together for most of the race. I felt OK at the turn back to Mold, so picked up the pace again to catch Jez and others on the undulations before re-entering Mold. Coming into the final mile, I was momentarily 10th, but part of a small group of quick runners that I knew would beat me in a sprint finish. That was indeed the case: I have never had much of a finishing kick and ended up at the back of the group. Still, a great race (and a great league season) with the usual friendly competition, and not too bad a time for this hilly 5 mile course. The category remains very tight: a slender 5 point lead going into the final race, which (as is often the case) is three days after London!
Time/Position: 28.37 (13th from 293 [1st V45])
Almost three months since my last border league fixture, and indeed my last short race - having missed race 5 due to the Panama trip. This gap, combined with recent travels and relative lack of speedwork, meant I was very unsure how I'd get on today. The V45 category could hardly be tighter, with Richard Webster nudging into the lead by one point after the last race. It was a relief, therefore, to feel reasonably good on this very familiar circuit, which I must have done at least 10 times. It is always a tricky one to judge: indeed just last year I blew after the hill to Nercwys and really struggled over the last half. This was better, just kept it steady on the climb, then pushed the pace a bit through Nercwys. Myself and Richard again equally matched, running together for most of the race. I felt OK at the turn back to Mold, so picked up the pace again to catch Jez and others on the undulations before re-entering Mold. Coming into the final mile, I was momentarily 10th, but part of a small group of quick runners that I knew would beat me in a sprint finish. That was indeed the case: I have never had much of a finishing kick and ended up at the back of the group. Still, a great race (and a great league season) with the usual friendly competition, and not too bad a time for this hilly 5 mile course. The category remains very tight: a slender 5 point lead going into the final race, which (as is often the case) is three days after London!
Sunday, April 10, 2016
Ca's Catala climbs
Crag: Ca's Catala, Mallorca
Routes: Rama Lama Dindon (f5:led), Bon Profit (f4c:sec), Covas Bros (f5:led), Ebam 2 (f4c:led), Ebam 1 (f4c:sec), El Rey de Bastos (f5c:led), La Virgin del Felpudo (f6a:sec), Makarenko (f5b:led), Aitornillo (f4a:sec)
This was a fairly obvious choice for the airport day, located on the western side of Palma Bay. The unfortunate thing is that it was supposed to come after a shakedown on Friday, then the big mountain day we had planned for Saturday. That didn't happen because of the lost day and tight schedule, but at least we had the two slices of the sandwich, even if we missed out on the filling! This crag has a rather suburban feel, a short walk-in from the resort of Sant Augusti, with some enormous mansions across the small valley. The immediate environment is pleasant with views of the Med from the top of the crag: in fact, the clarity of light was such that we could clearly see Ibiza and Formentera although they are well over 50km away. We did the crag's duo of three-star routes first, longer (20m+) pitches on a slabby rib of rock. Nice climbing, although the f4a struck me as severely undergraded: it was fairly sustained with tricky and quite technical moves to overcome a bulge below the top. The limestone at this crack was rough and unpolished, like shards of glass in places, reminding me of Chateaudouble. Given our total lack of recent climbing, we kept the grades modest again and just went for mileage. Much further left, I led the shorter line of Covas Bros at f5, which took a blunt rib. It went quite easily until a steepish finish on flatter holds. The two lines to its left were strong natural lines - my lead went easily to a deep crack splitting a detached pillar while Vic's was a longer route (20m) taking the obvious groove at the left-end of the crag. Both were enjoyable. We had some lunch, as the cloud had all burnt away to give another incredible day of deep blue skies. The temperature had climbed dramatically and we found ourselves sweating in shirt-sleeves on sun-kissed rock. I upped the grade a tad with a lead of the short but good El Rey de Bastos at 5c. This had reachy moves on pockets to gain a long horizontal undercut. From here, strenuous moves on good, positive holds led up a crack to a steep finish. The 6a to the right was just as good: another athletic and strenuous pitch, getting the blood pumping and forearms working. We both did them cleanly and quickly, before finishing with two short routes and heading to the airport via a quick lunch and a couple of final Mallorcan specialities.
Routes: Rama Lama Dindon (f5:led), Bon Profit (f4c:sec), Covas Bros (f5:led), Ebam 2 (f4c:led), Ebam 1 (f4c:sec), El Rey de Bastos (f5c:led), La Virgin del Felpudo (f6a:sec), Makarenko (f5b:led), Aitornillo (f4a:sec)
This was a fairly obvious choice for the airport day, located on the western side of Palma Bay. The unfortunate thing is that it was supposed to come after a shakedown on Friday, then the big mountain day we had planned for Saturday. That didn't happen because of the lost day and tight schedule, but at least we had the two slices of the sandwich, even if we missed out on the filling! This crag has a rather suburban feel, a short walk-in from the resort of Sant Augusti, with some enormous mansions across the small valley. The immediate environment is pleasant with views of the Med from the top of the crag: in fact, the clarity of light was such that we could clearly see Ibiza and Formentera although they are well over 50km away. We did the crag's duo of three-star routes first, longer (20m+) pitches on a slabby rib of rock. Nice climbing, although the f4a struck me as severely undergraded: it was fairly sustained with tricky and quite technical moves to overcome a bulge below the top. The limestone at this crack was rough and unpolished, like shards of glass in places, reminding me of Chateaudouble. Given our total lack of recent climbing, we kept the grades modest again and just went for mileage. Much further left, I led the shorter line of Covas Bros at f5, which took a blunt rib. It went quite easily until a steepish finish on flatter holds. The two lines to its left were strong natural lines - my lead went easily to a deep crack splitting a detached pillar while Vic's was a longer route (20m) taking the obvious groove at the left-end of the crag. Both were enjoyable. We had some lunch, as the cloud had all burnt away to give another incredible day of deep blue skies. The temperature had climbed dramatically and we found ourselves sweating in shirt-sleeves on sun-kissed rock. I upped the grade a tad with a lead of the short but good El Rey de Bastos at 5c. This had reachy moves on pockets to gain a long horizontal undercut. From here, strenuous moves on good, positive holds led up a crack to a steep finish. The 6a to the right was just as good: another athletic and strenuous pitch, getting the blood pumping and forearms working. We both did them cleanly and quickly, before finishing with two short routes and heading to the airport via a quick lunch and a couple of final Mallorcan specialities.
Saturday, April 09, 2016
Sa Comuna run
Peak: Sa Comuna (741m)
Area: Sierra de Tramuntana, Mallorca
After five hours climbing at S'Estret, and lunch in Valdemossa, I ran through the town to the hard-to-find GR221 (the 'dry stone way') which traverses the spine of the fabulous Sierra de Tramuntana mountain range in Western Mallorca. After a day of enforced rest yesterday, I had a reasonable amount of energy left after the climbing and was very keen to sample the Mallorcan mountains, albeit extremely briefly! The weather was now absolutely perfect: incredible rain-washed clarity and a light northerly breeze. I ran up through ancient paths to small limestone outcrops and walnut trees, eventually emerging on a small limestone summit plateau. Wonderful views of the deep blue Mediterranean immediately west, Valdemossa below and the higher peaks fringing the town to the north. Those peaks blocked views further north over the Sierra de Tramuntana sadly, but after a fast descent we then drove back through the mountains to Esporles via more beautiful scenery.
Area: Sierra de Tramuntana, Mallorca
After five hours climbing at S'Estret, and lunch in Valdemossa, I ran through the town to the hard-to-find GR221 (the 'dry stone way') which traverses the spine of the fabulous Sierra de Tramuntana mountain range in Western Mallorca. After a day of enforced rest yesterday, I had a reasonable amount of energy left after the climbing and was very keen to sample the Mallorcan mountains, albeit extremely briefly! The weather was now absolutely perfect: incredible rain-washed clarity and a light northerly breeze. I ran up through ancient paths to small limestone outcrops and walnut trees, eventually emerging on a small limestone summit plateau. Wonderful views of the deep blue Mediterranean immediately west, Valdemossa below and the higher peaks fringing the town to the north. Those peaks blocked views further north over the Sierra de Tramuntana sadly, but after a fast descent we then drove back through the mountains to Esporles via more beautiful scenery.
S'Estret climbs
Crag: S'Estret, Mallorca
Routes: Zarzamora (f4c:led), Mario Moreno (f5:led), Mario Moreno II (f5:sec), El Culo (f5c:led), Con el Culo al Aire (f5a:sec), Pasion Interminable (f5a:led), Pasion Oculta (f4c:sec), El Imperio Contrataca (f4c:led), El Retorno del Jedi (f5a:sec)
A rather unfortunate start to a very brief (three day) cragging trip to Mallorca, my first ever visit to the Balearics. I arrived just before midnight on the Thursday, met long-staying Vic, and retired to our wonderful converted monastery in Marratxinet. After a good breakfast, the forecast rain began and we lost an entire day to the torrential downpour and icy temperatures. It cleared later in the evening to leave snow on the higher peaks. This morning dawned dry, however, albeit cloudy and cold. Vic was now ill, so we headed to S'Estret above Valdemossa (planned as the shakedown day yesterday). I hadn't touched rock since last August, so kicked off with the lowly graded Zarzamora. Conditions weren't good: damp and cold. But the climb was very nice: an easy slab led to a contrasting slightly overhanging crack, almost a mini-chimney, overcome on huge holds to gain a rest and easy ground to the lower-off. Nice start, still some light rain in the air. The classic Mario Moreno was disappointing: it takes a long 25m+ slab in a good open position with some huge holds, but is very polished and quite unpleasant in these conditions. I found the footwork tricky and the route over-rated and undergraded. Its companion to the left was similar: marble-like polish, reminding me of St Jeannet. The sun came out at midday, at long last, and we moved up to a much better part of the crag, with good views over the valley. Our mini-break now improved dramatically! Vic was not well enough to lead, so I kicked off with El Culo at 5c. This has a fierce move over an overlap at the start, due to a lost hold. Fingery and awkward, but above lies a delightful slab of surprisingly rough dark grey limestone. Padding up this in the sunshine, the rock warming by the second: this is what we come for. The climbing was thought-provoking and sustained, but never difficult, with sharp little incut holds and small cracks. A fine route, as was the f5 crack to its right: much steeper at the start, up a juggy flake crack to gain easier climbing. We had a bite to eat as the temperatures climbed further, enjoying the views over the plains to the east. Further right, I then led Pasion Interminable in glorious sunshine. This was the route of the weekend, unusually varied and interesting throughout. An initial easy slab led to a delicate traverse into a groove. Slightly tricky moves up this to gain a steep but positive crack leading to an upper headwall, slabby again, split by a glorious positive flake crack. A great 100ft pitch. After two more short and polished routes, we retired for a very late al fresco lunch of tostada sopressada and empanadas in Valdemossa. Too soon after this substantial repast, I ran up into the hills above the town.
Routes: Zarzamora (f4c:led), Mario Moreno (f5:led), Mario Moreno II (f5:sec), El Culo (f5c:led), Con el Culo al Aire (f5a:sec), Pasion Interminable (f5a:led), Pasion Oculta (f4c:sec), El Imperio Contrataca (f4c:led), El Retorno del Jedi (f5a:sec)
A rather unfortunate start to a very brief (three day) cragging trip to Mallorca, my first ever visit to the Balearics. I arrived just before midnight on the Thursday, met long-staying Vic, and retired to our wonderful converted monastery in Marratxinet. After a good breakfast, the forecast rain began and we lost an entire day to the torrential downpour and icy temperatures. It cleared later in the evening to leave snow on the higher peaks. This morning dawned dry, however, albeit cloudy and cold. Vic was now ill, so we headed to S'Estret above Valdemossa (planned as the shakedown day yesterday). I hadn't touched rock since last August, so kicked off with the lowly graded Zarzamora. Conditions weren't good: damp and cold. But the climb was very nice: an easy slab led to a contrasting slightly overhanging crack, almost a mini-chimney, overcome on huge holds to gain a rest and easy ground to the lower-off. Nice start, still some light rain in the air. The classic Mario Moreno was disappointing: it takes a long 25m+ slab in a good open position with some huge holds, but is very polished and quite unpleasant in these conditions. I found the footwork tricky and the route over-rated and undergraded. Its companion to the left was similar: marble-like polish, reminding me of St Jeannet. The sun came out at midday, at long last, and we moved up to a much better part of the crag, with good views over the valley. Our mini-break now improved dramatically! Vic was not well enough to lead, so I kicked off with El Culo at 5c. This has a fierce move over an overlap at the start, due to a lost hold. Fingery and awkward, but above lies a delightful slab of surprisingly rough dark grey limestone. Padding up this in the sunshine, the rock warming by the second: this is what we come for. The climbing was thought-provoking and sustained, but never difficult, with sharp little incut holds and small cracks. A fine route, as was the f5 crack to its right: much steeper at the start, up a juggy flake crack to gain easier climbing. We had a bite to eat as the temperatures climbed further, enjoying the views over the plains to the east. Further right, I then led Pasion Interminable in glorious sunshine. This was the route of the weekend, unusually varied and interesting throughout. An initial easy slab led to a delicate traverse into a groove. Slightly tricky moves up this to gain a steep but positive crack leading to an upper headwall, slabby again, split by a glorious positive flake crack. A great 100ft pitch. After two more short and polished routes, we retired for a very late al fresco lunch of tostada sopressada and empanadas in Valdemossa. Too soon after this substantial repast, I ran up into the hills above the town.
Sunday, April 03, 2016
Kinnerton-Denbigh run
A last ditch attempt to get another (probably final) long run in before my 20th marathon at the end of the month. Unlike last Monday (and the Knighton 20) this went reasonably well, and was an interesting point to point route that I have pondered the feasibility of for some time. I headed off at a steady but reasonable pace, up the long climb through Penymynydd to Buckley, down to Mold, then up through the undulating quiet lanes to Rhydymwyn and Hendre. From here, an awful section of the main Mold-Denbigh road, a definite lowpoint, leads to the familiar steep and long climb up towards Moel Arthur and a merciful release from the traffic. The hill was tough, although easier than it is on the bike, and the weather was delightful: warm spring sunshine and birds singing, early house martins overhead. At the col, I had a gel and got to K's house in time for a family lunch in Denbigh in just over 30 minutes running via Llandyrnog. A smidgeon over 2.5 hours in total.
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