S'Estret climbs

Crag: S'Estret, Mallorca
Routes: Zarzamora (f4c:led), Mario Moreno (f5:led), Mario Moreno II (f5:sec), El Culo (f5c:led), Con el Culo al Aire (f5a:sec), Pasion Interminable (f5a:led), Pasion Oculta (f4c:sec), El Imperio Contrataca (f4c:led), El Retorno del Jedi (f5a:sec)
A rather unfortunate start to a very brief (three day) cragging trip to Mallorca, my first ever visit to the Balearics. I arrived just before midnight on the Thursday, met long-staying Vic, and retired to our wonderful converted monastery in Marratxinet. After a good breakfast, the forecast rain began and we lost an entire day to the torrential downpour and icy temperatures. It cleared later in the evening to leave snow on the higher peaks. This morning dawned dry, however, albeit cloudy and cold. Vic was now ill, so we headed to S'Estret above Valdemossa (planned as the shakedown day yesterday). I hadn't touched rock since last August, so kicked off with the lowly graded Zarzamora. Conditions weren't good: damp and cold. But the climb was very nice: an easy slab led to a contrasting slightly overhanging crack, almost a mini-chimney, overcome on huge holds to gain a rest and easy ground to the lower-off. Nice start, still some light rain in the air. The classic Mario Moreno was disappointing: it takes a long 25m+ slab in a good open position with some huge holds, but is very polished and quite unpleasant in these conditions. I found the footwork tricky and the route over-rated and undergraded. Its companion to the left was similar: marble-like polish, reminding me of St Jeannet. The sun came out at midday, at long last, and we moved up to a much better part of the crag, with good views over the valley. Our mini-break now improved dramatically! Vic was not well enough to lead, so I kicked off with El Culo at 5c. This has a fierce move over an overlap at the start, due to a lost hold. Fingery and awkward, but above lies a delightful slab of surprisingly rough dark grey limestone. Padding up this in the sunshine, the rock warming by the second: this is what we come for. The climbing was thought-provoking and sustained, but never difficult, with sharp little incut holds and small cracks. A fine route, as was the f5 crack to its right: much steeper at the start, up a juggy flake crack to gain easier climbing. We had a bite to eat as the temperatures climbed further, enjoying the views over the plains to the east. Further right, I then led Pasion Interminable in glorious sunshine. This was the route of the weekend, unusually varied and interesting throughout. An initial easy slab led to a delicate traverse into a groove. Slightly tricky moves up this to gain a steep but positive crack leading to an upper headwall, slabby again, split by a glorious positive flake crack. A great 100ft pitch. After two more short and polished routes, we retired for a very late al fresco lunch of tostada sopressada and empanadas in Valdemossa. Too soon after this substantial repast, I ran up into the hills above the town.