Galicica mountain run

After a couple of days in Albania, I headed back over the border from Pogradec via the monastery of Sveti Naum. A long wait for a bus meant I didn't arrive in the village of Pestani, perhaps 10 miles into Macedonia, until 2pm. One restaurant was still open: they rustled up a superb meal consisting of 12 cevapi, a mound of fried potatoes and a massive bowl of Macedonian salad. I waddled up the twisting streets above the lake to find my accommodation (not easy!) then set off for a run in the hills of the Galicica national park, which fringes the village. At around 5k, I gave up after the rain (which had slightly marred my morning trip to Korce in Southern Albania) started again. This time it was sleet, and it was clearly snowing higher up. I scampered back, promising myself that I would return next morning at 6am. After a subzero night in a £7 room with no heating (but a fine view of Lake Ohrid), I set off as planned just after 6am. The early morning was very cold, and nobody stirred in the village as I quietly slipped through the streets to pick up the vaguely marked trail I'd found yesterday. In theory, this led for 15k to the top of Magaro, the dominant peak, but as it loomed bright white in the distance it seemed a big ask even with my usual running approach, given that I had to be in Skopje that afternoon. Instead, I adopted a more realistic approach: running at a brisk pace uphill and seeing how far I could get in one hour. This went well, although it was very cold in what were essentially a series of north-facing forests: all moss and lichens, with a sharp ground frost. Views of the lake were intermittent but superb, with the accursed mountains of Albania snowcapped to the west. At a rough guess, I ran via Visoka Krasta to Koritski Rid and turned round at a small spur/side peak above Korita, although I didn't have a decent map. The sun finally hit me on the descent, giving wonderful views of the whole of Lake Ohrid. Then, after a quick shower, I left my room and headed down to the unbelievably tranquil lakeside in the morning sunshine, waiting for transport to Ohrid and Skopje.