Shepherds Crag climbing

Crag: Shepherds Crag, Lake District
Routes: Ant Highway (MVS 4b:led p.2), Jackdaw Ridge (D:led p.3 only), Donkey's Ears (S:led p.1+3), Derision Groove (VS 4a,4b:led p.1)
A stunning morning in Buttermere. Not a breath of wind, perfect clarity, perfect temperatures, spring birdsong and peaks reflected in the lake. We drove along an empty Honister pass and parked below the famous roadside (almost) crag of Shepherds. I haven't climbed here for 24 years or more, and have only done a few routes at the venue, which is probably the most popular in the whole of the Lakes. It is a little battered and polished, but still pretty good. Inevitably a tad shady and cool as I followed Vic up the first pitch of Ant Highway. This is steep and awkward to start, with a couple of moves to gain a good hold. Above, it eases to a nice gangway and little wall. My pitch was easier still, up a sharp fin-like ridge to the top. Further left, I merged the first two pitches of Donkey's Ears, which rambles up an easy-angled section of rock to a small chimney to a stance below a cave with the two 'Donkey's Ears' above. A thrutch through these, rather claustrophobic and physical, after which I led to the top in a nice position. Famously excellent views over Derwent Water from the top of the crag, with Skiddaw beyond: another perfect day developing. Our time was limited, however, as was our energy. So we finished up with the fine line of Derision Groove. I led the short first pitch up an awkward slabby corner to a ledge, then up a steep, clean groove on good holds. The top pitch builds to a climax, with the crux right at the top of the wide groove line. A wobbly jug leads to some awkward moves diagonally left, surprisingly exposed and tricky to second. Nice line and a good climb. We drove back before lunchtime to avoid the traffic.