Tryfan climbing

Peak/Crag: Tryfan (East Face)
Routes: North Buttress (VD:led p.2,4), Terrace Wall Variant (VD:led p.2)
A cloud inversion looked like a possibility this morning. It is always worth gambling in these circumstances, and I know from past experience that the East Face of Tryfan is the most perfect place in these conditions, so Vic and I headed up from a drizzly and dank Ogwen at 9am. Thick mist as we trudged up towards the Heather Terrace where a slight lightening in the cloud gave us hope. Then, just as we got to the start of Grooved Arete, we popped through the cloud. Stunning views, some of the best I have experienced in over 30 years of Snowdonian activity. Teams were already on Grooved Arete, so we went for North Buttress, which was one of the first climbs I did: 1989 perhaps. The first pitch goes up a tricky groove, then I led the second, which gives very pleasant climbing up a delicate rib to a groove. It is all typical Tryfan climbing - easy and relaxed, all the time above a spectacular blanket of cloud. Sadly, the route then becomes broken and a long grassy section leads up to the Terrace Wall. It was windy here - quite cold too. So we settled for Terrace Wall Variant, which is quite hard to find. I have a vague feeling that I have done this before, and I think we struggled with the route-finding then too. It goes up a slabby crack to a ledge, then a steep wall. Vic led this pitch, then I led the traverse right in a fine position, to the Grove of Bollards (the spikes at the top of Belle Vue Bastion - a route I did a few years ago). Then a steeper little groove to the top. All this time, the cloud inversion had boiled away below, gradually dissipating from a thick bank of cloud enveloping the whole of Ogwen to tendrils of mist peeling away from Bwlch Caseg Fraith. We took the skirting path to the top of Tryfan for a sunny but cold and windy lunch. Then it was down the West Face for a long and circuitous route back in glorious late autumn sunshine: all the peaks crystal clear.