The Fellsman

Race: The Fellsman (61m/12000ft)
Peaks: Ingleborough (724), Whernside (736), Gragareth (627), Green Hill (632), Great Coum (687), Blea Moor (535), Great Knoutberry (672), Dodd Fell (668), Buckden Pike (702), Great Whernside (704)
Area: Yorkshire Dales
Time/Position: 17.30 (89th from 322 starters [221 finishers])
Words like 'legendary' and 'unique' are overused, but tempting in the case of The Fellsman. A memorable outing which takes a beautiful line traversing all the main Yorkshire Dales peaks, most of which were entirely new to me - and with a sense of occasion, place, and history too (first run in 1962). So, very much my cup of tea, and I'd heard a lot about it from Peter and Dave who had both run it in 2015 (the year I ran the Yorkshire Three Peaks on the same day, another 'break' from the London marathon). Perfect timing, given the nature of this year and the fact I failed to qualify for what would have been my 9th London. After a meal at the pub in Threshfield, I slept in the car and we got the last bus to Ingleton at 6.30am after breakfast. The forecast was poor, after a baking-hot Easter weekend, although it was just light drizzle as we set off from Ingleton at 8.30am, up Fell Lane to the claggy top of Ingleborough, perhaps the shapeliest of all the Dales peaks. From here, the route descends the Three Peaks 'staircase', steeply down to Hill Inn via nice limestone scenery. Having done the Three Peaks twice (once on the race four years ago, once as a walker in 1988!) I knew this section in reverse, and I enjoyed the climb up to the day's highpoint of Whernside via Broadrake and a contouring shortcut, still feeling very fresh after a relaxed week saving as much energy as possible for this journey into the unknown. A lovely descent all the way down the ridge of Whernside to High Pike, all the way to West Fell, although the weather closed in with painful hail giving way to rain as we descended down to Kingsdale for the first proper feeding station. After a flapjack, the rain was hammering down for the steep climb up to Gragareth. I felt it might be set in for the day, a dismal prospect, but actually it cleared on top of Gragareth to give wonderful conditions for the next section, which was one of the day's highlights - north along Blakemaye, a broad ridge to climb over Green Hill and then Great Coum. This was tremendous, in shifting mist and strong winds, with wonderful views in all directions: black clouds over some hills, bright sunshine over others. We could see across to the Lancashire coast, and over the Howgills, with Whernside and the rest of the Dales emerging from the clag. Dramatic skies. We were both feeling good, and took the long descent from the hills towards beautiful Dentdale in our stride, even the rocky and awkward Flinter Gill which leads to the cobbled streets of Dent and the end of the first section. It hammered down as we sheltered under the cooking tent, wolfing down cheese pasties, sausages, melons and biscuits. The rain continued for the first of the day's two road sections, which doesn't last long, heading east up Dentdale to Rigg End before joining a steep track round the shoulder of Whernside to gain a beautiful contouring soft grassy track suspended above Dentdale - relaxation and respite - before a tussocky, awkward descent to Little Dale Beck in a tremendous sunburst as the weather began to clear from the west. Things were looking good; we were around halfway, both Peter and I felt good, and we ran off the top of Blea Moor in good spirits. This section had looked arbitrary on the map, but it is actually a brilliant way of taking in all the main summits. A steam train emerged from the tunnel as we dropped down the Dales Way towards Stonehouse: the famous Settle-Carlisle line hugs the hillside here. A long descent, hard running, down the road to Stonehouse and a grand feed including pasta! It was still sunny, but we began to hear rumours of approaching bad weather: a blow to morale, as things looked so promising. The rumours proved correct: it clouded over for the next climb up Hengill Beck to Cross Pits and the steep out-and-back climb to the summit of Great Knoutberry. The cloudbase stayed mercifully high for the tricky section over the featureless moor and bog of Arten Gill down to the road at Redshaw, another famous Fellsman checkpoint. Another big feed, ballast for the bogs of Snaizeholme - deep and cloying - which came next. Above, a gentler section, more respite, as the Ribble Way is joined. Behind, approaching weather - a big black cloud with the wind picking up as we reached Cam High road and the Pennine Way. A violent hailstorm hit - unpleasant at this stage of affairs - and the temperature dropped. We were now in a group of 7 or 8, which was fortunate, as the climb up Dodd Fell is not at all obvious, above the Widdale Valley to the north. A bleak, featureless, hostile summit and a remarkable feat of marshalling in these conditions. The hail eased to sleet, then rain as we made our way down to the road and the legendary Fleet Moss checkpoint. This is 600 metres up, and the weather was at its worst: torrential rain and sleet as we sheltered and put on the rest of our clothes. Everybody was soaking, taking in litres of tea, bean stew and lots more with the tent battered from all sides: memorable stuff. I'd been so optimistic at Stonehouse, but leaving Fleet Moss I was furious: thinking my appalling 2019 weather luck had struck again. I felt fine physically, but knew that the triple combination of rain, wind and darkness would make life very hard for the final section - Peter was not in the best of spirits either. That said, the next section was re-routed down the valley for access reasons, and although it extended things and added a long road section, it had one great benefit today in that we lost height rapidly and gained the shelter of Langstrothdale, where the rain got lighter and the temperatures warmer. Cue improved morale! We passed the hamlet of Oughtershaw then gained the top section of Wharfedale, psychologically crucial as it feels like you're heading home (probably nearly 20 miles away over several peaks, but no matter). Two goosander took flight from the Wharfe. Finally, we gained the new checkpoint at Yockenthwaite (wonderful Norse name), then climbed up towards Middle Tongue, savage at this stage in proceedings but enlivened by a truly wonderful clearance: shafts of sunshine to the west, a rainbow over Hell's Gap. My pleasure at this was short-lived, however, as I'd been following a northerly bearing to the next CP but there was no sign as we emerged onto Yockenthwaite moor, a bleak spot indeed. This was a problem, the biggest navigational issue of the day, and not ideal this far into the race under darkening skies with night approaching. Buckden Pike was clear of cloud across the valley - we still had a very long way to go. Another runner joined us, and thought the CP was hidden in a trough much further left: this was indeed where we eventually found it, more like a mountain marathon CP and a function of the diversion. Peter fell back at this point, as the light faded for the long traverse over the awkward terrain of Cray Moss to Hells Gate, then down the track to Cray as darkness fell. This, for me, is where the event really takes on its special character: it was cold as I dined on soup and coffee, waiting to form a group of four, which is a Fellsman requirement as soon as night falls. It took around 20 minutes for this to happen, and then our group left: it was a good one. I'd run with Saul from Middle Tongue, and we were joined by Sharon and Richard, who both had detailed local knowledge, so we took an excellent weaving path that eventually joined the main route up Buckden Pike. I loved this section: it was magical, with the lights of other teams twinkling distantly in front, and a frieze of stars emerging above as the weather cleared and the temperature dropped. Very fortunate timing. Great views to the lights of Darlington and Teeside to the north from the summit of Buckden. Then good running, still feeling good, down to Starbotton Road, then around and up to Park Rash and the final big feeding checkpoint. Another great climb up Great Whernside, the final peak, via Blackfell top, which was short and sharp. Although I'd enjoyed nearly all of it, I was ready to finish at times during the final descent, which is very long and tussocky in places (and the mist came down unexpectedly again for a while, making life difficult). It was now after midnight, with a hard frost forming in the pools of light from our torches, breath condensing in long plumes. Red beacons mark the checkpoints but it is impossible to judge distance as they appear then disappear depending on terrain. One of our quartet started to suffer, and slowed considerably on the long trek south to Capplestone Gate, and the run for home took on a surreal feel as fatigue sets in. Eventually, we reached the road at Yarnbury, after which the group is allowed to break up; I ran the final section, pushed on by another group of five who caught us up as we slowed, down Moor Lane road to the silent sleeping streets of Grassington and through to the finish at Threshfield school. An excellent chilli, eating staring into space, then a bus trip to the quarry car park and a somewhat uncomfortable second car boot bivouac. Next day dawned clear and sunny, inevitably.

Moelwyn Traverse

Peaks: Clogwyn Bwlch y Maen, Carnedd Cribau, Cerrig Cochion, Moel Meirch, Ysgafell Wen, Moel Llyn Cwn, Moel Druman, Cnicht
Area: Moelwynion, Eryri
A perfect way to avoid the Bank Holiday hordes while also reccying a crucial Paddy Buckley leg: a nice way to exploit the weather, which has been exceptional this Easter. I parked by Llyn Lockwood and struck straight up the tussocky, trackless hillside towards the Moelwyn ridge as it drops down from Siabod. Virtually nobody ever comes here, but it actually allows for the tops to be gained quickly (as they are all quite low). I have done this route in reverse (from Croesor) but never this way round, and these peaks are probably the least trodden in central Snowdonia - even I have only been up them a handful of times. It was still fairly early, well before 9am, with a low sun and a cooling breeze (which was strong in places). Tremendous views of the Snowdon Horseshoe, and an easy little diversion to Clogwyn Bwlch y Maen. From here, Carnedd Cribau is just off the fence line and has some lovely pools to lend interest to photos of Yr Wyddfa. Then a long haul across empty terrain, rocky and awkward in places, eventually gains the bwlch above Dolwyddelan and the barely detectable peak of Cerrig Cochion, one of the Paddy 47. The next hill, Moel Meirch, is one of the finest spots anywhere in Eryri, and yet I've only been up a couple of times. A mini-Inn Pinn forms the summit, with little outcrops and lakes all around. Below lies Llyn Edno, a beautiful sight in this weather, then a slightly complex route up Ysgafell Wen which leaves the fence line, hugs the lake, then strikes up hard-to-read slopes to a complex summit. The ridge then opens out as the main Moelwynion come into view, with Moelwyn Bach looking very distant from here. This section is all gloriously runnable, although the weather began to cloud over. The ridge kinks left and climbs Moel Druman. I missed Allt Fawr out then scoped out the obvious combination over the higher Moelwyns before plunging into the lumpy and complex terrain between Cwm Orthin and Cnicht. The Paddy route skirts the bottom of the lakes, crossing at Llyn Cwm Foel, a tiny reservoir, before making an intricate ascent of Cnicht - very steep in places, presumably exceptionally arduous if a Llanberis start to the round had been made. I had seen nobody all day, an Easter Monday, so the summit of Cnicht was a shock - over a dozen walkers. I left it quickly for the wonderful, very fast (tailwind) run to Llyn yr Adar. I've swam here in the past - another one of Eryri's finest lakes, high up and quite remote. I ran round the shore to pop through a little col and gain the wonderful path that contours above Llyn Llagi to emerge in Nantmor at the hamlet and tiny lane that runs through this valley. At the sharp bend, where I've pranged the car in the past, I cut north along a track (new to me) that runs parallel to Gwynant but avoids the road and takes a direct line through woods to eventually emerge above the lake. A short section on the main road by the lakeside, then I cut through the Gwynant campsite and eventually joined the old track up the valley (descended on the Snowdonia marathon). I'd only eaten three wagon wheels all day, so was a little depleted on emerging at PyG and Llyn Lockwood.

Craig y Forwyn

Crag: Craig y Forwyn, Llysfaen
Routes: Lark's a Bumbly (HS 4b:led), Kiwi (VS 4b:sec), Arian (HS 4a:sec), Arian Direct Finish (VS 4c:sec), Route 66 (VS 4c:sec)
A stunning forecast for the entire Easter weekend, but a combination of bad luck and circumstances conspired against me at times. An early start today, but Vic's car was struggling and broke down completely outside Menai Bridge. Several hours on a hot roadside, then recovery, so we tried to salvage a shrivelled husk with a few routes at Craig y Forwyn. I led the juggy HS corner, before Simon led the easy but pleasant VS of Kiwi. Vic arrived and led Arian, up its fun layback crack, before taking the direct finish which is vegetated but good - using a small flake on the right wall at a steepening below the top. Can't recall doing this before (although we'd done all the other routes), and I finished by seconding Route 66 with a big sac on.

Tal y Fan run

Peaks: Tal y Fan
Area: Carneddau, Eryri
An early morning jog in soft April light, as fine weather began to build just in time for the long Easter weekend. Yesterday evening, I ran from Hodeston over the 'three peaks' of Conwy mountain; and slowed the pace a bit this morning, starting from Sychnant and running onto my favourite tracks through the ancient landscape of the northern Carneddau. It is always at its best this time of year, although it was very hazy this morning unfortunately. I felt a little tired, particularly for the final climb to the top, and jogged back at an energy-conserving pace for a bacon bap breakfast before a family walk around Bodnant in perfect spring weather.

Paklenica climbing

Crag: Ovcji Kuk
Routes: Prijatelju Moj (f3+/S:led p.1)
Crag: Klanci (Zighi/Zava)
Routes: Captain Corragiosi (f5b:led), Gripa (f5b:sec), Onaj Tamo! (f5a+:led), Matane ti si Car! (f5c+:sec)
Crag: Kukovi Ispod Vlake
Routes: Nosorog (u4,4-,5-,2,5-,2:led p.1,3,5)
The day we had been waiting for: finally, the weather was kind and Steve had recovered. That said, it was still raining when we woke, almost unbelievably. But by the time we got to the park entrance it was clear the rock was dry, even though the weather was cloudy and some light drizzle was falling. Given all that, we started gently but excellently, with a mild mountaineering route up the centre of the beautifully shaped miniature peak of Ovcji Kuk. It actually takes a series of slabs to the left of the very obvious central crack/chimney line, which is presumably loose or otherwise unpleasant. Instead, Prijatelju Moj is a delightful climb, UK Severe, which is thought-provoking in a few places but generally just lovely, absorbing easy climbing. I led a long 50 metre pitch to a surprisingly small stance on a slab, with the crux coming just before the belay; a steepish pull. Steve then led through, up more slabs to a final steep pull taken on the right via a crack. We had a little drizzle on the route, but it cleared completely as I led a scrambly third pitch to gain the top of Ovcji Kuk, lending the route its mountaineering character. Then came a scrambling descent to the col on the far side, then a path back to the base. A good start. We then wanted to bag Nosorog, but it was rammed with three teams of Germans. No time to waste, so we headed straight up to Klanci where I wanted Steve to experience the joys of good limestone. We crossed the river and headed for the Zighi section, opposite the busiest parts of Klanci and much less polished. Captain Corragiosi gave a wonderful pitch up beautiful sculpted limestone; almost the perfect single-pitch route, 30 metres of varied limestone climbing. First, a steep and technical slab, then a small overhang taken on jugs. Then, a glorious upper wall of wonderfully featured rock, pockets, and giant juggy flakes: limestone climbing at its best, the definition of what I love most and have been lucky to experience in many venues from Provence to the Costa Brava to the Italian Alps (sadly, rare in the UK). The modest grade was irrelevant, and Steve then led a similar but shorter line further left, Gripa, which had some seepage but took walls of concrete-like rock with friezes of small pockets. Brilliant stuff, the sun was out and it was nice to be on this quiet side of the gorge. We switched to the busy side for a few routes on the Zava section we'd already visited. In the dry, it was a different proposition: I enjoyed Onaj Tamo at f5, which was steep then technical - but also very polished. Slightly under-graded, but eclipsed by the 5c+ to its right, which seemed more like 6b+. We then retired for lunch, more burek, and to check-out of our apartment. We returned to even better weather, finally cloudless skies, perfect clarity of light. And Nosorog was free of crowds, which was better still. We geared up and headed to it, just a few minutes from the car. It is a Paklenica classic, taking a wonderfully obvious line up a snaking ridge that marks the entrance to the gorge when you drive in. Perhaps HS 4c in British terms, but bolted throughout and not sustained. I led a long easy first pitch which sidles up grooves and walls on the right-hand side of the ridge line, then Steve continued up the ridge: simple but enjoyable, leading up to a belay below an obvious steepening at a beautiful wall of limestone. This gave a fine pitch, straight up the front of the wall on good holds at VS, then sidling leftwards on a traverse across a series of spikes and pinnacles. Steve's 4th was easy but intriguing, up the ridge, then a downclimb to avoid the top of the obvious giant gendarme which is its key feature. A tiny col provides a nice belay spot, while the final pitch heads straight up the front of the ridge, which becomes much steeper. A wall of lovely limestone with some delicate climbing on small holds, leads to an easier section, before a final wall builds up to a small overhang right at the top. All easy but beautiful climbing. The descent is intricate, a short scramble to a double traverse following small cairns and long ledges - fantastic views of the main gorge in bright sunshine - to eventually gain tiresome scree back to the car. That was that, sadly, so we drove down to Zadar for a walk round the walls and coastal promenade in perfect spring weather, before flying home later that evening.

Velebit loop

Peaks: Babin Kuk (1417m), Crni Vrh (1110m), Anica Kuk (712m)
Area: Paklenica, Croatia
An unconventional, yet fundamentally logical circuit of three very different Paklenica peaks. We woke to the first dry morning of the trip, but Steve wasn't well and needed a day to recover. A change of plan was necessary - and this became a day that vindicates the 'all-rounder' approach I tend to naturally adopt. Within five minutes, I switched from climbing mode to mountaineering mode and packed my bag accordingly. After a hearty breakfast, I set off jogging from the park entrance before 8.30am. It was cloudy, cold, and much windier than it had been: but dry. I managed to maintain a reasonable pace through the gorge, then increase it a bit as the main path levels off as it continues northwards. The high peaks were just coming into view - clagged in, but with a fairly high cloudbase. After the initial disappointment, I was starting to enjoy myself. Nobody was around, and I began to hatch a plan for a mega-day, final training for the Fellsman in a much more congenial and interesting environment! I got to Lugarnica, the first hut, in around an hour - then the main Paklenica hut is a few minutes above. It is in a lovely spot, sheltered in a wooded glade beyond a wooden bridge with a big Croatian flag flying outside. I had a brief chat to the wardens inside, who let me know there was no neve higher up, but that it was forecast to snow today. A small cluster of higher huts dot the hillside above the Dom, then comes open meadows (this route is known as the Lipa Staza, and heads up to Vaganski Vrh). Above, cloud draped the slopes of the highest peaks, an indication of katabatic winds; it was pretty cold at this point and, looking up, I could see my first objective, Babin Kuk, an impressive spire of limestone from this angle, towards the bottom of the spur coming down from the main ridge. I kept up a decent climbing pace, for training reasons, and soon entered the trees - this was atmospheric, completely alone (I saw virtually nobody all day, hardly surprisingly given the conditions). The path was a little tortuous, but generally easy to follow: and my route to the east birfurcated from the Lipa Staza at around 1300m. It weaved round before striking directly up, very steeply in places, to gain the bottom of Babin Kuk. This has a uII scramble up it, quite intricate, the only way up. The bottom was well marked, and I enjoyed the initial steep groove. The problem, however, was the intense cold. I had to take my gloves off for the scramble, and my hands froze immediately. This got worse as the route weaved upwards via another steep groove, before cutting left on good limestone to an old cable. The summit was a hostile place indeed - ferocious katabatic blasts sweeping down from Vaganski Vrh - they were actually 'visible' as ice crystals and light snow swept down the lee slopes leaving a trail of grey vapour. The light snow got a tad heavier and I struggled initially to find the route down, as it's poorly marked from the summit. After a bit of retracing, I found it, and wasted no time downclimbing the grooves back to the trees and getting my gloves on. Painful hot-aches ensued, but I got warm quickly and started up to Liburnija. The headwind was very fierce, however, and the snow got heavier, so not for the first time this spring I was beaten back from high peaks by heavy snow - two weeks ago in subtropical Tenerife, now on the Adriatic coast! The descent went well through the woods, jogging most of the way, and then I decided to see if anybody was around at the Ivancev Dom hut (wooden, atmospheric) that occupies a lovely location above the main hut, looking across to my next objective, Crni Vrh, a fine peak which seemed sensibly lower and sheltered from the winds of the main ridge. It seemed deserted, so I got the map out and began to plan the rest of the day's route (it was midday now), when I was hailed by the eccentric owner in the cod German that is typical of the Balkans. Soon, I was dining on goulash with pasta and bread, Turkish coffee and a very large free shot of homebrewed purest raki. All hot-aches gone! I then dropped down to the main hut and picked up the path that contours Veliki Kuk for Mala Mocila pass and Crni Vrh. The mountain itself is large and complex, the centre of a mini-range of forested spurs, ridges and sub-peaks. The summit looks deceptively close from Babin Kuk and the opposite side of the valley (where I'd been that morning) but it is actually quite distant and complicated to reach. All good though, with delightfully sheltered wooded paths (on one of these I saw a pair of walkers, the only people I saw all day apart from those in the huts). From the Mocila pass, the route kinks north to follow another wooded ridge to the steep final climb to the summit of Crni Vrh. Nowhere near as windy as Babin Kuk, but still cold: and the higher peaks were now quite snowy, with the same ice streamers draping the slopes: a very wintry scene over the leafless Klimenta valley and across to Babin Kuk, this morning's summit, looking pleasingly distant and inaccessible. I jogged back to Mala Mocila, where I looked fruitlessly for a path up the nice-looking ridge and peak of Orlov Kuk. Instead, I headed south along a wonderful high path, suspended above the upper reaches of Velika Paklenica to the abandoned hamlet of Skilijici, and then another, Jurline, surrounded by Alpine meadows: abandoned shacks, barns and gardens. Then it was south through Grabove Doline to finally pick up the junction to Starigrad and Anica Kuk. This is innocuous at first, but then the views open out at a small col: down to the main gorge and across, spectacularly, to Anica Kuk. This is up there with anything in Europe: a stupendous rock peak with the gorge below and Adriatic beyond. The route traverses rock walls to another small col, then begins weaving up the gentler eastern slopes of the peak, characterised by extraordinary shards of limestone, a continual series of jagged pinnacles and walls. This is never technical, but very sharp with continual little drops and wholes: slow and rather painful progress. The summit is a great place, however, poised above the gorge, Starigrad and the sea. A tortuous descent initially, then fast running back down to Paklenica and a tricky river crossing (unusually high after all the rain). Back along the main gorge path with wet feet. A wonderful giant loop: perhaps 9000ft of climbing.

Pasji Klanac

Peaks: Pasji Klanac (794m)
Area: Velebit West, Croatia
Although a little tired, I felt short-changed after such a weather-affected day, so headed up the tiny road that runs through Starigrad up into the Velebit peaks that lie to the west of Velika Paklenica and the main park entrance. It was late afternoon, and completely deserted, as I headed up (in a 4WD Duster!) past the hamlet of Milovci-Bristovac: the weather was cold, overcast but dry at last. After the rain, the limestone landscape, strips of cloud and low orange light over the Adriatic made for a very distinctive ambience. I drove to a likely spot near Vaganac and picked a peak at random - which turned out to be Pasji Klanac, a double-headed limestone spire that was very steep when approached from below. The main challenge initially was finding a way through the maquis, although a few tiny cairns helped at first. Above, as I approached the summit dome, these petered out and it felt like a first ascent. A frontal assault was impossible solo, climbing territory, but it looked like a ridge lay above. I tried one chimney to get up - too steep - then traversed left and gained the ridge at the col between the two peaks. Then, a delightful catwalk - exactly what I had hoped for - led via some mild scrambling to the small summit. All very satisfying, with a pioneering feel. The views were wonderful. Paklenica itself was still draped in cloud, but nearby summits to the west were clear. In front, a spectacular view over the domes and spires of Veliki Vraganac with Starigrad and the Adriatic below. The low light, after a day of rain, gave tremendous clarity and I could see right out over the islands and peninsulas to the south (Pag, Losinj, Cres and many others). It was utterly silent, not a sound, and nobody else was visible in the entire landscape - a memorable bonus outing, making the most of some very bad weather luck. Excellent grilled mackerel with dalmatian chard and potatoes to refuel in Starigrad later.

Klanci climbing

Crag: Klanci, Paklenica, Croatia
Routes: Via Normale (f4a:led), Miki Maus (f5a:led), Njofra (f3:led), Husky (f3:led), Petar Pan (f4a:led), Zava (f4b:led), Zajcek (f4c:sec), Cuja ti si Bog i Batina! (f5:sec), Vuga (f4c+:led), Kos (f5b+:sec)
The rain that had started at 11am yesterday continued through the night, and it was still hammering down as we arrived at the park entrance after breakfast this morning. I tried to get some extra sleep in the car, and eventually it eased to light drizzle, so we decided to climb anyway, given the bolts, and just tick some easy routes instead. The detached pillar of Ljuska seemed a sensible place to start, and I led a soaking wet Via Normale, which takes an obvious line up the front of the pillar, no more than 15m, to a tree then a groove: all simple but obviously awkward, as soaking wet very polished limestone tends to be! Further left, at the Veleshit sector, Miki Maus seemed fairly dry, as this steep wall misses the worst of the rain. A few steep wet moves gained drier rock and a juggy crack led to the lower-off; a nice little VS. The rain got heavier, so we dropped the grade again, doing two ultra simple climbs that were soaking throughout. Petar Pan was a tad harder and a tad drier, and after another easing we moved onto to the Zava sector, where I led the eponymous central climb. This is a great route, up a shallow, slabby groove with some wonderful juggy and pocketed holds. There were even a few dry sections! Zajcek, to its left, takes seepage anyway - so was even wetter. While the f5 to its right was thought-provoking in these conditions, but gave more fine pocketed climbing. The rain got heavier again, so we retreated to the apartment for lunch. It eased in the early afternoon, so we returned to Ljuska: this time trying the high slab right of the detached pillar. Vuga seemed the strongest line so I led that. Another excellent pitch, albeit very wet in places. It takes a wall to a broad open groove, almost a shallow chimney, which curves left towards the top but keeps its identity. In these conditions, the route to its right (Kos) seemed desperate - with a smooth and very technical crux up a steep slab with some seepage. This seemed 6a+ or more, despite the grade, and involved a very technical sequence up smears and tiny holds, at least when taken direct. We then crossed the river and I was just about to start another route when the heavens opened and we beat a rapid retreat - very annoying.

Zoljin Kuk

Peaks: Zoljin Kuk (843m)
Area: Klimenta, Paklenica, Croatia
The rain got heavier as we had lunch, and Steve wasn't feeling well. So, fuelled by burek (not for the first time) I headed back to the national park entrance, keen to make the most of it by getting up some peaks, despite the weather. I jogged past the routes we'd done this morning, then up through Velika Paklenica - a huge tourist path heads all the way through the canyon to the hut much further up the valley where the higher Velebit peaks begin. I didn't go that far, however, partly because it was already afternoon but mainly because it was absolutely bucketing down. Instead, I followed the main path up zigzags beside the delightful rushing river, below the mist-draped main crags (I couldn't even see the famous cliffs of Anica Kuk). Eventually, the angle eases and good running leads to a junction of paths. I followed the long leftwards switchbacks which weave up to the famous showcave of Manita Pec (a very long walk for a tourist!). It was absolutely sodden, but the mist parted at times to give superb and atmospheric views north up the valley. Above, the remarkable rock pinnacle of Stup loomed through the mist. The path heads to this, then back right and eventually gains the cave at 600m: this all felt like good training as it was largely runnable. The path to Vidakov Kuk then continues via a short descent and surprisingly steep scramble to gain a much smaller, but still easy to follow, path. This weaves upwards below numerous limestone peaks and heads generally west through dwarf woodland. Eventually, through the gloom, it turns left and heads up Zoljin Kuk - the first main peak on this ridge. A tight gully, soaking wet, with mist spilling into it from above, made for an atmospheric ascent. I enjoyed it, despite the weather, and continued up rocky limestone shelves to gain the sharp top in thick clag. The path continued to Vidakov, but I was soaked and the rain was getting heavier, so retreat down the same route was the only sensible option. The rain did indeed get heavier, but I rather enjoyed the quick running back to Velika Paklenica.

Paklenica climbing

Crag: Klanci, Paklenica, Croatia
Routes: Skorpion (f4a:led), Wiener Wurstchen (f5a:led), Marija (f3+:sec), Figa (f5a:led), Nane (f4+:sec)
The forecast was disappointing for this short trip to the world-class venue of Paklenica on the Adriatic coast of Croatia. A real shame, but it was dry last night when we flew into Zadar and remained so first thing this morning. Steve was not in the full bloom of health, but after a quick breakfast in our Starigrad apartment, we headed straight for the park entrance - five minutes away - intent on grabbing something before the rain arrived. It is, essentially, an earthly paradise: a 2km drive from the entrance brings you to the gorge proper, and from there everything is accessible - from high peaks to mountain huts to trail runs to long mountaineering routes to big walls to short technical climbs. Literally everything you could ever wish for; every conceivable shade of the mountain experience. So, shame about the weather! With rain imminent, we got to work on the short 15m routes of Auhe, a neat dome of rock near the entrance. Skorpion was a steep grade 4 with some wonderful juggy holds, and Wiener Wurstchen was similar but harder - a nice route with good moves over two overlaps on sharp limestone. Marija was a strong VD groove line between the two which Steve led. Further right, I jumped on the enjoyable Figa, a longer (20m+) pitch up wonderful pocketed limestone to a higher slab which had some characteristic Paklenica bridging up waterworn tubes of limestone and led to a final groove. The rain got a little heavier, so we nipped up Nane, a parallel 20m line immediately left in the same vein. This was all a tempting aperitif, so it was incredibly frustrating to be rained off. We headed back to the apartment for large slices of burek, and to consider our options.

Glyderau run

Peaks: Elidir Fach, Elidir Fawr, Mynydd Perfedd, Foel Goch
Area: Glyderau, Eryri
If I make a Paddy Buckley attempt this year, and it is an enormous 'if', I plan to start from Llanberis. This would perforce be the first climb, the immense haul also taken by Pedol Peris, and I wanted to refine it as much as possible. I started well outside Llanberis so had a decent lakeside warm-up before taking the zigzag path through the lower quarry to the incline that heads up past Australia. This is very steep but very direct, and joins the open hillside not too far from the top of Elidir Fach. The headwind was strong and cold here, and this continued up Elidir Fawr, where I went to the right end of the summit ridge - numerous thick snow drifts made for soft and tiring progress, but they were intermittent. A helicopter buzzed around the summit continually, which was then engulfed by mist. Good running along the ridge, then staying high for the continuation to Mynydd Perfedd. The clag stayed thick for the haul up a cold Foel Goch, but then cleared as I contoured round to join the Elidir Fawr race route down the ridge on the far side of Cwm Brwynog. This is brilliant, and unsung, and the weather gradually cleared as I descended to give good views across to Elidir, down to Nant Peris and up to Crib Goch. All the way down to Nant, then up through the quarries to Twll Mawr, before descending back to the road for a long warm-down through Llanberis. Just time to nip up and down the simple routes at Lion Rock near Fachwen before lunch.

Coledale Horseshoe fell race

Race: Coledale Horseshoe fell race (14k/3200ft/AM)
Peaks: Grisedale Pike, Crag Hill/Eel Crag, Sail, Barrow
Time/Position: 1.44.05 (128th from 313)
It is rather strange how every time I go up to the Lakes for a Medium distance classic horseshoe, the weather is absolutely perfect; but every time I go for a Long, it is dire. This was Medium, so just like Kentmere, Grisedale, Anniversary Waltz, the weather was glorious: a wonderful spring day, with snow on the tops and an invigorating clarity to the air. The North Lakes is just a bit too far for a day trip, but this is what we did: a long drive to Braithwaite. This was just for training and fun, getting close to the allotted 10,000ft climbing for the week, and I took photos all the way round. From Braithwaite lodge, the race pelts down to the village before beginning the brutal and sustained climb up Grisedale Pike. This eases half way up before building to a climax up the final pyramid - the path can be seen for miles around and heads up scree and open rock (and, today, some deep snow patches). I did the Rab mountain marathon in this area a few years ago, but missed the summit of the Pike when bagging various checkpoints, meaning this was a first for me (strange, as it is one of the most notable peaks in the Lakes, with the ascent route obvious from miles around). At the top, I took a few pictures before enjoying the superb descent down snow to the contouring path round, and below, the side of Hopegill Head to the broad pass of Coledale Hause. From here, the climb up Crag Hill (Eel Crag) looks desperately steep but was rather enjoyable, on a mixture of slush, shale and solid rock with some light scrambling. Glorious running over Crag Hill over big snow patches to the rocky, steep and awkward descent along the nice ridge to Sail. I've done this section a few times over the years, first during fresher's week in 1988 when we stayed in Newlands! Another wonderful descent, taking the diagonal path through the valley between Outerside and Causey Pike towards the final climb up Barrow. The grassy final descent back to Braithwaite Lodge seemed familiar from the Rab, but I think that went to Stair instead. Nice food lying down in the sunshine at the finish, before a quick pint in Threlkeld before the drive home.

Snowdon scramble

Peaks: Crib Goch, Garnedd Ugain, Yr Wyddfa
Area: Snowdon, Eryri
A connoisseur's route up Snowdon (AKA my 'alternative horseshoe') from the Dinas Cromlech layby up the tiny path that weaves up below the east flank of Dinas Mot. This gives some decent scrambling up slabby rock, if you look for it, and eventually gains the bottom section of the north ridge of Crib Goch. It all has the distinct advantage of avoiding the crowds and the parking fees. The weather was wonderful (as it had apparently been all last week when I was in Tenerife) but a front was due that afternoon, so it was nice to be able to take advantage by moving quickly first thing in the morning. Perfect views over Cwm Glas and Clogwyn y Person as I climbed, then gained the atmospheric curving north ridge which gains the summit in a great position, looking across to Reade's Route on the main pinnacle. I was last on this ridge in August 2017, descending it on our 3000s run. From the summit, people appear for the first time, despite the day and hour - but the views were perfect, some of the best I've had in dozens of Crib Goch crossings, this is always my favourite time of year. As always, a thoroughly enjoyable crossing, taking the pinnacles direct and running where I could. Over Crib y Ddisgyl by the most direct line - 25 minutes for the entire ridge from Crib Goch (1:20 from the Cromlech car park). I decided to brave the crowds and take in Snowdon, not something I often do outside winter but I thought it would be empty enough on Monday morning. It was packed, so I just touched the trig point and ran flat out to contour the slopes of Garnedd Ugain to the remnants of a cornice at the top of Parsley Fern gully. Here, I relaxed with a snack and took a few luxurious minutes to enjoy the view back across Clogwyn y Person to Crib Goch. I then descended the Cyrn Las ridge - we last came this way after climbing Face Route in incredible conditions at this time of year five or six years ago. It's a nice ridge with a couple of very short scrambling sections - I can remember feeling like we'd 'discovered' it as teenagers in the late 80s, as it didn't feature in any books at that time.